Step 5: Drill 3 Holes: First Hole

The way that this should work out after you drill these holes is that there will be a spout in the barrel at the base which will face outwards, an overflow which will shoot out to the side from the top of the barrel wall, and a downspout adapter at the back of the top of the barrel which will back up to the wall of your house.

Use the 1" Forstner bit to drill a hole about 4 inches from the bottom of the barrel on the side wall so that it will line up with one of the barrel plugs. It is critical that it lines up with the barrel plug. This hole will be for the spout.

<p>So, although you say it is sealed, do the mosquitoes not fly down the downspout into the water, or is that too far for their dumb little brains to comprehend? Also, do they not go in through the overflow hole? Thanks for the great design! I have several that I plan to make and link all together.</p>
Good question, I think it depends on your specific setup. At one point, I started using a small piece of window screen between the downspout and the barrel to prevent debris and bugs. You may just have to test it out and adjust as needed. Good luck
<p>They can and do but the thing is that the adults die because they can't find their way out after having deposited their eggs. So what you are dealing with here is larvae. The solution is to add 3 T of olive oil to the barrel. It gives the water in the barrel a thin coat. The larvae cannot hatch because they need oxygen and the oil prevents them from surfacing to reach the air. It does not harm the barrel or any vegetables/plants that you might be using the water on.</p>
<p>My post is probably really old to this conversation, but I'm hoping I get a response from you. I need a large rain barrel. Would it be possible to make one using one of those plastic large deck boxes used around the pool??? Here's a photo from Amazon </p>
<p>I have one of these deck boxes... They loosely snap together, and cannot hold-in the water pressure. The footing is double walled plastic, and will not hold a lot of weight. So while you could use these to conceal a tank of some kind, the tank needs to be rigid enough not to put pressure on the walls of the deck box. Simply lining the deck box with plastic won't work. </p><p>On the other hand, you can make something like a deck box that will work fine, just be sure to account for the weight of the water constantly pressing on the walls of the box, as boxes are a less than ideal shape. The round barrel is an ideal shape, but the larger IBC totes made from the same material need to be enclosed in a steel frame to prevent the contents from bulging the sides (trying to make them round)... Round is stronger. </p>
My design came from a need to make the most rain barrels that would last and perform their function at the lowest cost. I would likely look for a different type of container that was already headed for the landfill, but that's just me. There are large plastic totes that go by many names but have a capacity closer to 200 gallons. Check around on Craigslist and see what you can find
<p>This is a nice design. My wife and I started a garden recently and was inspired by this barrel to create one of our own. Read our blog post about it at http://www.justmeasuringup.com/blog/a-green-way-to-water-the-garden</p>
Nice job
<p>This is a really interesting design! Thank you for including all the information about where to get barrels... that's an enormous help!</p>
Glad it was helpful for you
Can you tell me why/if an old water heater isnt a good idea for a rain barrel or even several water heaters just lined up for the overflow? Old water heaters are an easy free find so that's what id LIKE to use, plus for me at least it seems obvious to use it.However, there doesn't seem to be much info or pix from folks who converted one into a rain barrel. Tons of water heaters repurposed into stoves and grills, ect- but not for containing water. Which means either its SUCH a simple idea that no one sees the point in showing it off OR that i must not be thinking of something that makes it a terrible idea. I have 7- SEVEN!- water heaters lined up for either scrap/disposal, (which goes against my rule of teusung EVERYTHING at least once before getting rid of it) or i have a potential rain collecting system on hand. I already have a cool grill and firepit made from upcycled materials so im really hoping i can use these for watering my flowers for my backyard nursery. (And possibly for an outdoor shower- nothing fancy, just to cool off when it gets to hot and to let water rinse off the dirt before i go inside).<br>Any advice or words of wisdom?
Sounds good enough to try. Go for it! Good luck
<p>Using uniseal joints makes things much easier to install a faucet</p>
<p>We bought a 114 year old house last year and it has an old cistern in the driveway. I wonder what it would take to get it up and going again.</p>
<p>If you want more capacity, normally easier to get a 200+ gallon square plastic tank with metal cage (I picked up a number for free). They tend to have 6 inch opening at top, 2 inch on bottom with a 2 inch facet already attached. You just have to rig up an overflow system.</p><p>The simplest &quot;rain barrel&quot; is to stick it on its side (make a quick stand) and use existing holes on barrel. Game of 90 degree elbows, size adapters, etc to get water in and overflow out on top, and on bottom you just thread in a facet or size reducer and facet. Easy as well to do more complicated chaining of multiple barrels.</p>
Oh, and skip the garden faucet, get a 1/4 turn 3/4&quot; ball valve. <br> <br>Compare water flow with regular garden faucet and 1/4 turn ball valve <br>(both screw into same size hole and fit a garden hose): <br> <br>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEpybHgKqQk
Not bad, but I think this is better, as you only have to put one hole in the barrel. Watch this video: <br>You tube video <br>5 Dollar RAIN BARRELS 55 gallons to 1000 gallons <br>Connecting multiple barrels with part numbers for the pvc parts <br> <br>And for the bottom, avoid silicone as it leaches chemicals into water with <br>prolonged contact: <br> <br>For installing a faucet on the barrel without silicone (and they have a video <br>on how to install the fitting and there are other companies that sell it, <br>don't buy it at Home Depot though, their plastic fitting contains lead): <br> <br>http://www.bayteccontainers.com/bulfit34.html <br> <br>(I used a hole saw instead of a spade bit, because I already had a hole saw. )
Highly suggest you match in the incoming water volume with the overflow in areas where heavy rains occur http://www.aquabarrel.com/product_overflow_port.php<br> <br> If you keep this barrel in the upright position then you are less likely to have a leak out the bottom bung plug - even if it is sealed with silicone it might leak.<br> <br> For those folks in places that get below freezing you might want to take the rain barrel off-line for the winter with a diverter http://www.aquabarrel.com/product_downspout_diverter_rectangular_aluminum.php<br> <br> or just spend a few more dollars and get a diy kit designed the right way:-) http://www.aquabarrel.com/product_rain_barrel_parts_kit_earthminded.php
I use open top plastic containers for my rain barrelsl. The top is solid without bung holes. The top can them be cut for your fitting. The faucet at the bottom is now easy to attach. The open top design them makes it easier to clean the barrel and dip out water for things like washing, hand watering gardens or for toilets. <br> <br>Ken
Ken, <br> <br>I agree, the open top barrels are clearly a better option. I have found that the open topped barrels are rarely free and for my use I was looking for the cheapest option. The open topped barrels have a slightly smaller footprint, however, they tend to be taller. I use them to make compost bins because they are so easily adaptable.
This part is largely unnecessary. I gave up after about a half hour of trying in vain to screw the parts together. The force of the hose bib threaded through the plastic and set silicone are enough to hold everything in place.
What holds the flexible down spout adapter in place?
Why do you use an iron elbow instead of a brass one? That would avoid any dissimilar metals corrosion.
I just finished making four of these. The only comment I have is that I could not get the elbow to the hose bibb; my hands are too large! So, after a few tries, I discovered if I turned the bib all the way in, I could hold the elbow on the bibb thread with a pair of needle-nose pliers. One or two turns of the bibb was all it took for the threads to catch and then I could switch to the screwdriver to hold it in place.<br><br>All in all - a very good instructable!!
I have the wrong barrels, these are white and had blue coral wax inside them. Since they have sat outside they have collected water from the hole in the barrel plug. When you make yours with the barrel turned unside down does water leak from the small hole in the plug, now that is it facing down?
I had a question regarding the overflow adapter. The one in this Instructable seems very small. Every other rain barrel I've seen uses fairly large PVC pipe, and I've seen recommendations that the overflow be no smaller than 1.5&quot; wide. Have you had any issues with this smaller overflow adapter?<br><br>Otherwise, this is a great instructable. Thanks for sharing!
Everyone has their preferences for the overflow size. I have not had too many complaints with the smaller opening, but some people have more water flowing through their barrels than others. I have seen PVC fittings used as well as other types of flexible tubing. Either way the conversion is pretty simple. Best of luck and thanks for the comment.
which was is the 90degree fitting faced? i'm guessing that the opening is down, but it never does say.
Down is correct. Any other way can work, but down is likely the most effective.
This is one of the simplest plans for a rain barrel I've seen so far, and looks to be one of the more effective. Well done!<br><br>I'd like to add to your list of places to get barrels, as well. I used to have dozens in my shed a while back from the chemical plant I worked at. Before anyone screams &quot;pollution&quot;, I should mention that the barrels were never used! They would label more barrels then they would need for a particular batch we were filling, and because federal law prohibits re-using a labeled chemical barrel, the majority of them went to the crusher, unused and uncontaminated (not to mention five-gallon buckets, steel barrels, and cardboard drums). I used to bring home as many as I could fit in my vehicle each night for free. I'm pretty sure most plants would happily give away their excess containers rather then pay for extra trash pickups... just a thought.
Wow, good suggestion. I never would have guessed that unused containers could get trashed. I will look into it. Thanks

About This Instructable




More by stylnpzzalvr:The best RAIN BARREL for less than $15, and where to find a barrel 
Add instructable to: