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They all amount to this: DO NOT use paracord to rappel!
The average rappel under "normal" conditions can produce forces of 900 lbs on the rope and anchors with a 160lb rappeller. Way beyond the limit of the safety rating for single strand paracord. And when you start dealing with "force factor" falls, things go sideways in a hurry. Look into it.
Even more of a danger is the threat of shearing. When a cord is weighted and stretched, in gets longer, skinnier, and easier to cut. Paracord sheaths are absolutely not designed to withstand that any kind of abrasion against rocks encountered when on rappel.
DO NOT do a 'Bear Grylls'! Find some other way down the cliff!
PS. Even 'Bear' is not stupid. On his "rappels" if you look carefully you can see an actual rappel/belay line passed through the sleeve of his jacket and, presumably, up to an appropriate anchor. ~ Or maybe Bear is stupid, but his producers definately are not.
Please put it back!!!!!!!!
Thanks in advance
After each set of square knots (first on the right then on the left- Step 4 and 5).
Cross the 5th strand from the left over the 4th strand from the left.
So far I have made myself one brown and one black belt. I made another brown belt for my two year old son. I made his thinner by only using two core strands (one on each side) rather than four. I have even started making them as gifts for friends and family. The belts are very comfortable and durable.
Initially I had a hard time finding belt buckles… The first one I made with a buckle I cut off of an old belt bought from a consignment shop. The biggest problem I ran into was when searching for belt buckles online all I was getting were the big ornate ones that usually accompany ten-gallon hats and pointy-towed leather boots (no offense to those who sport that look… its just not me). I finally discovered that what I should have been searching for were “Heel Bar” buckles. Since then I have been mostly using BuckleGuy.com. Their buckles are fairly simple, come in a variety of finishes and seem to be sturdy and look good on the belts.
The only change I have made to the original design is on the keeper. I have been gutting the inner strands out of the length of paracord I use for the keeper. It makes the keeper significantly thinner while still keeping with the theme of the rest of the belt. I like this change so much that I actually cut the keepers off the first couple belts I made and retrofitted them with gutted keepers. …Just a matter of personal taste but one I thought others may be interested in.
Have Fun!
i have two now the first one was abit crap beacasue i was no good at the knots
I strongly suggest hammering a nail or two into your work bench to use as an anchor point so you can get it nice and neat
also I didn't have elastic bands so I passed the core strands through my legs and sat on them this seemed to do the trick and sped up the process :) awesome belt !!!!! 11\5
This is further complicated by the fact that colors can vary from lot to lot. Certain sellers use different names than the manufactures names and some manufactures use the same name as other manufactures for different colors.
Thanks!
Is there a formula that you know of to calculate the sizes for the various pieces, or do you just "feel your way" through? (for example: for every foot of "core", use 2.5 feet of working line, etc...)
You want one that is sized for and inch and a quarter to be right for a 8 strand belt.
Tandy leather has them in brass and nickel plated brass for a couple of bucks a piece.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Buckles/1548-097.aspx
Thank you for the clear instructions! Is there a way that I can splice or weave in some extra cord to make the belt longer? I have a nice belt completed, but it's too short. Have you tried this?