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How to make a self watering container

How to make a self watering container
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A self watering container consists of:
a pot (any old plastic pot will do, make sure it has no holes in it, the pot I used was a bucket I got at the dollar store)
a wick (any plastic bottle you can recycle, I used a Gatorade bottle)
a pipe ( any pipe big enough to pour water in easily, I used copper here, but you can use pvc pipe or any plastic hose you have laying around)
a barrier (you can use window screen like I did here or recycle your old grocery bags or any plastic bags like the one your soil comes in
some rocks (rocks are cheap, you can use river rocks or pea pebbles like I used here)
Soil (of course some soil whatever kind you like)
Optional - Kitty Litter ( You can stretch you rock supply by putting a layer of kitty litter on the bottom and your rocks on top. make sure you get kitty litter that has no chemicals in it)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Step 1Getting the wick ready.

Getting the wick ready.
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Take your plastic bottle and place it in your bucket or pot to see where you want to cut it. I would say at least one quarter of the height of the bucket or pot.
Mark your cut line with a sharpie.
Start cut with an exacto knife and cut the rest with scissors.
Poke holes all over the bottom and sides of the wick.
 
 
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10 comments
Jul 3, 2011. 6:39 PMsail4free says:
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Occasionally I scope out related Instructables -- not wanting to reinvent the wheel or duplicate something already out there. Does the screen actually wick moisture properly? You never have to top water? Otherwise it seems any water delivered down the pipe will quickly drain out the bottom of the container . . . that's the path of least resistance.
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Aside from the screen and the hole in the bottom of your larger container, this design exactly duplicates what I understand as sub-irrigated growing containers. Usually the gravel is about 4" deep and a water reservoir about 3" deep is maintained with an overflow hole drilled at that height through the sidewall of the container. The pipe is used to fill the reservoir; when it is full, water flows out the overflow. The only purpose of the gravel is to support a layer of landscape fabric under the potting mix.
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The smaller wick container is also filled with potting mix to form a "cupcake mound" before the circle of landscape fabric is put in. The smaller container passes moisture up into the mix as long as it's not allowed to get too dry. The mix is completely saturated initially and covered with a layer of plastic at the top. Bark fines are used to protect the plastic AND keep it from getting too hot. This upper layer of plastic minimizes evaporation and keeps the potting mix from ever getting too dry -- as long as the water reservoir is never allowed to run dry. For more info, scope out:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-Your-Own-Growing-Containers/

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May 10, 2011. 2:46 PMAgMEEN2000 says:
I like this. Allows a lot of design flexibility.
Jun 9, 2011. 12:27 PMAgMEEN2000 says:
Update: I modified two utility buckets following the methods in this instructable. One has a jalapeno pepper plant, the other a red penta (to attract pollinators). Both planter buckets work brilliantly and the plants are thriving.

For the jalapeno bucket, I used landscaper's lava rock for its light weight. The red penta flower bucket got styrofoam peanuts.

Looking forward to building a larger planter for some tomatoes!
May 26, 2011. 5:06 PMduhfuss says:
I would change two items....1) loose the rocks as they provide no benefit and only ad weight...2) an overflow hole needs to be placed in the pot at the height of the barrier to avoid overwatering and developing 'sour' soil

BTW, I cannot fathom the benefits of using kitty litter....
Nov 24, 2010. 1:13 AMcyro says:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't copper usually used as an antifungus?
Jul 20, 2010. 12:29 PMpedalmonkey says:
The use of copper poses no risk to humans. PVC on the other hand does. Copper piping does pose a risk to fish when used in aquaculture, specifically aquaponics, because of fish's skin and scale sensitivity to copper oxide. Putting the copper and AL screen, which has a heavy zinc coating on it, so close together will definitely set up a bi-metal corrosion that will kill the screen after a while, and may be toxic to the plant. Other than that, this looks like a pretty sound practice. I would check whether the plant is sensitive to AL or zinc oxides and go from there. If aluminum screen is all one has, that's what one uses; otherwise go with cotton or maybe a synthetic landscaping/french drain liner material. Good idea. Scaleable, too.
May 3, 2010. 4:00 PMelnino2783 says:
Nice idea, but aren't you taking a risk using copper piping?  Since it's exposed it could corrode and is probably not safe to use for watering purposes.  That's probably why people use Schedule 40 PVC because it is safe for drinking water.
Jun 1, 2010. 9:48 PMdwoloz says:
 It will indeed corrode but considering most homes are plumbed with the stuff, it seems unlikely its dangerous. PVC is cheaper besides being corrosion resistant though
Jun 9, 2010. 6:32 PMelnino2783 says:
Yeah, I was considering the fact that it's used in plumbing all the time when I left my comment. My worry though, is that it may become more chemically reactive in an environment with dirt/minerals/water all touching it, where as in a house it's usually mostly only in contact with water,
Apr 16, 2010. 8:38 PMLazooka says:
Really cool!

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