Instructables
Picture of How to make a simple bezel setting
This lesson will show you how to fabricate your own custom setting for any shape cabachon.

Items Needed:
Stone
Sheet metal
Bezel wire of same or similar material
Torch
Jewelers saw
Flat and half round needle nose pliers
Nippers (ask anyone, that's an acceptable term)
Files, needle fils or larger hand files - it all depends on the size of the piece you are making
Sanding sticks
Bezel roller
 
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Step 1: Measure bezel wire to stone

Picture of Measure bezel wire to stone
There is probably some wonderful math equation that will give you the exact length you need for every stone you want to set.  But for me, I simply:
-wrap the wire around the stone
-cut where it looks right
-shape the bezel to hold at the right position for the stone
-make adjustments as neccessary

Step 2: Solder bezel closed

Picture of Solder bezel closed
Once you solder the bezel, double check the stone to the bezel.  Again make any needed adjustments.

Step 3: Solder bezel to back plate

Picture of solder bezel to back plate
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Use an over sized piece of metal for the back plate.  It's possible that I use a much larger back plate than necessary but it makes it a lot easier to hold the piece while you cut away the excess.

Step 4: Remove extra metal and sand

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This is the grunt work so put on some good music and go with it!!

I love sanding disks for this part but if you prefer hand tools, start with your coarsest file and go to your finest.  Then continue with sandpaper in the same order.  I usually go as far as 2/0 sandpaper before polishing.

Step 5: Set stone

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It's pretty simple.  This tool is called a bezel roller.  Use it to push the bezel against the stone and rock it back and forth to ensure a consistent bezel contact all the way around the stone.

Step 6: Voila!!

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A perfect way to showcase a beautiful stone that deserves all the attention.

I made it at Techshop!
www.techshop.ws
silvertinkerer made it!10 days ago

Have set a few stones this way. By far the best method I use. A good Instructable.

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A clear and well-illustrated Instructable. I have one additional suggestion:

Before you lay the stone into the metal bezel for the first time, lay a piece of dental tape (not dental floss) across the bottom of the metal plate so the ends extend onto the work surface on both sides.. Lay the stone on top to see if it fits right. If you then need to remove the stone for a final adjustment, it's easy to do by lifting the dental tape.
THIS IS GREAT! thanks!
another method to set the bezel would be using a pusher and a burnisher. Those two tools always made me feel like I was making the tightest fit I could.