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Step 3Build the machine crank
This machine requires a hand crank with an optional spooler for winding the conductive thread.
1: The Magic Bullet shaker top is mounted to the base of the machine at 2 inches from one end by first drilling a hole in one edge the using a 1.5 inch wood screw to fasten. I used one of the relay covers (will explain next step) as a spacer. The mounting points were hot glued to maintain their alignment.
2: There is a eyelet guide needed and this was made by wrapping a piece of bare copper wire (household electrical grounding wire) around a 5/8 inch drill bit. The center of the eyelet aligns with the center hole in the shaker top. The base of the eyelet is screwed to the machine base using a short sheet metal screw.
3: Next you will need to drill a 5/8 hole in the opposite machine upright. It is critical that it aligns with the center of the shaker top.
4: Through this hole you will feed a 10 inch piece of the copper tubing. I flared the end with a special tool to prevent the sharp edge of the tubing from damaging the thread (picture 5). The washer that you see on the tubing in the 3rd and 4th pictures are to create a bearing surface and provide a stable cranking motion.
5: Using a tubing bender I bent a 'Z' Shape in the tubing to create the crank. The measurements are not critical but I left enough room to allow the machine to be placed flat on a bench and still be cranked.
6: The opposite end of the tubing was also flared for sharp edge removal.
7: The crank is then pulled snug and wrapped with electrical tape by fastening one end to the tubing and spinning the crank. Enough tape must be used to provide a secure and stable crank.
8: The spooler was made by making a j bend in the tubing using the tubing bender. The bend must be such that it make the j align with the center of the shaker lid. The other end was flatened in a vise and drilled with 2 holes.
9: The flat part of the spooler is screwed tot he base using 2 sheet metal screws and the other fender washer is attached to the 'J" bend using hot glue. This provides a limit for the spool.
1: The Magic Bullet shaker top is mounted to the base of the machine at 2 inches from one end by first drilling a hole in one edge the using a 1.5 inch wood screw to fasten. I used one of the relay covers (will explain next step) as a spacer. The mounting points were hot glued to maintain their alignment.
2: There is a eyelet guide needed and this was made by wrapping a piece of bare copper wire (household electrical grounding wire) around a 5/8 inch drill bit. The center of the eyelet aligns with the center hole in the shaker top. The base of the eyelet is screwed to the machine base using a short sheet metal screw.
3: Next you will need to drill a 5/8 hole in the opposite machine upright. It is critical that it aligns with the center of the shaker top.
4: Through this hole you will feed a 10 inch piece of the copper tubing. I flared the end with a special tool to prevent the sharp edge of the tubing from damaging the thread (picture 5). The washer that you see on the tubing in the 3rd and 4th pictures are to create a bearing surface and provide a stable cranking motion.
5: Using a tubing bender I bent a 'Z' Shape in the tubing to create the crank. The measurements are not critical but I left enough room to allow the machine to be placed flat on a bench and still be cranked.
6: The opposite end of the tubing was also flared for sharp edge removal.
7: The crank is then pulled snug and wrapped with electrical tape by fastening one end to the tubing and spinning the crank. Enough tape must be used to provide a secure and stable crank.
8: The spooler was made by making a j bend in the tubing using the tubing bender. The bend must be such that it make the j align with the center of the shaker lid. The other end was flatened in a vise and drilled with 2 holes.
9: The flat part of the spooler is screwed tot he base using 2 sheet metal screws and the other fender washer is attached to the 'J" bend using hot glue. This provides a limit for the spool.
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