I can't find on here the method I use to get my sterling silver rings sized JUST right, so here you guys go!

There is a glossary at the end, let me know if there is any other info you want me to add!

Step 1: Materials and Supplies

-lined white paper
-half round sterling silver wire 12g (2mm wide x 1mm thick)
-hard solder
-pickle solution
-sand paper: 400, 600, 1000, etc
-liver of sulphur (optional, for awesome black oxidized ring)

-pickle pot
-quenching pot/cup
-copper tongs
-caliper (optional)
-steel ring mandrel with ring sizes
-steel ring mandrel without sizes (optional)
-finger gauge (optional)
-jewelry saw and saw blade
-files (large flat and small round)
-.925 stamp
-plastic jawed pliers
-tumbler with steel shot (optional, otherwise more finer sandpaper and polishing cloth)
-rawhide hammer
-steel hammer
-steel block or ring stamping block
<p><strong>Wonderful and helpful</strong></p>
<p>so good I think the best </p><p>hope you teach you are so good at explaining</p>
<p>Unless I overlooked it somewhere, do you have an actual step-by-step video tut for how to do this? If so, I'd love to view it. If not, that's ok too. BUT you should really think about doing that! Wonderful instructions! Thanks</p>
<p>Very thorough! Lots of great info.</p>
<p>Great set of instructions and photos! But, there must be a formula to convert ring size to mm to find the length of material to cut for the ring. Also, quick note from a total sandpaper/abrasives nerd - &quot;down&quot; describes rougher grit 80,100,200,260,350 &quot;up&quot; describes a higher grit (bigger number) 450,500, 600, 1000 etc. You said,&quot;Then I can go down to 600 and 1000.&quot; All the best!</p>
You said that after you work the metal it is semi-hard. Don't you want to make it hard so it doesn't bend when you wear it? If so, how would you do that? I'm thinking you would heat up the ring to some color, then quench it. What color is that? Could you heat just the areas that were not soldered so you would not de-solder it?
Just hammering a ring on a steel mandrel will take it from dead soft then to half hard and definitely to hard. though i also tumbled my piece and that also work hardens a piece. heating up a piece for an interesting color is definitely something you can do, though it is hard to control. for silver the colors generally go from yellow to brown to black... but the soldered area will more quickly turn black, even if you avoid that area with yor torch because silver conducts heat very well. avoiding the soldered area with the torch ought to keep the soldered from re-melting...but it isn't fool proof, you still need to be careful when annealing/re-heating a piece with solder on it. actually putting white out on an a soldered area is a good way to keep solder from reflowing. the white out makes the solder too dirty to flow.
Congratulations on being a finalist!
Congrats!! and all the very best.
I'm just trying to figure out why there is Latin in the background of the first pic...
it is a teaser, to see if there is interest in an intro to latin grammar instructable. u down? =P
The Author is just displaying her finished product. Have you never seen jewelry on top of a book for show?
This is such a cool 'ible! It also is a demonstration on why I am a buyer not a seller of jewelry! Lol I am much too clumsy for this. ❤
Awesome 'ible! I would love to try this. I'm totally new to this type of thing so forgive me if this is a dumb question. But as I look at the sterling wire on the website you mentioned, there are different types listed, such as dead soft and 1/2 hard. What type did you use for this 'ible?
Totally good question! I will add these to the glossary! <br>Right after metal is annealed it's softness is described as &quot;dead soft&quot;. <br>Slightly worked (ie metal is bent, hammered, etc) is &quot;half hard&quot; and springy, generally useful for wire wrapping, or anything that doesn't involve using a torch. <br>Metal is also sold in &quot;hard&quot;... it is hard, and uninterested in bending at all. <br> <br>For this instructable it doesn't matter which you use. Since it calls for annealing/soldering any metal you use will become &quot;dead-soft&quot;. If you are buying material for this project the dead-soft is a tiiiny bit cheaper.
That's great and very informative! I'll try to remember to post pictures once I try my hand at this!
I use a squirt bottle to squirt my flux on, found at Rio Grande Supplies.To anneal mark with a black sharpie, heat when the black is gone the silver is annealed.
Absolutely beautiful instruction! Well done- you should teach live classes on this (unless you're already doing that).
This is wonderful! I always wondered how people made such pretty, dainty rings. :D

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