Instructables
If your are like me which I am guessing you are, then ever since you got into doing stuff with arduino you have wanted to make your own arduino board. You may be surprised to find out that making the prototyping board is actually very easy, and can have several advantages over using the commercially sold board. For one thing, All the components together cost a little over 15 US dollars as opposed to the $30 that the Uno board sells for. second, you may not actually want a board, but may simply want the atmega chip as the heart of the project, like if you are making a synthesizer or even a robot. In that case, you can just attach the  hardware necessary to use the chip, and solder to the pins you need to use without needing the board. Another advantage is making shields. You have probably noticed that digital pins 7 and 8 are not the standard distance apart, which makes it difficult to make your own custom shields without paying the $15 dollars for a protoshield every time you make one. But if you make your own board on perfboard, the headers will be the standard distance apart and you can make your own shields with ease. Also, you may need to permanently add the board to your project, and for that you may not want to use the more expensive arduino boards. This board however is half the price, and easy to add to custom projects.

The only down side is that some parts of the arduino are kind of hard to build on perfboard. Most notably the Serial to usb adapter chip, which allows the microcontroller to interface with the computer through usb. You could use a good old RS232 jack, but they are not on a lot of newer computers. So to program your homemade board you will either need a break out board which does have the chip (get one here: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2117341_-1), or an arduino Uno or clone board to program the chip ( I used the former.)

Either way it is a fun and informative project.
 
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Cubytus made it!4 days ago

I actually made two of them. The first one was the square one. It is rather ugly and messy. No polarity protection, dissimilar regulators, mostly salvaged parts. The programming LED is the big yellow one, and I used a resistor too small (150 ohms), meaning using pin 13 would be problematic because of the high current draw. I made errors installing the headers, so there are extra, unconnected pins on both sides. Both units sought to fit the most complete Arduino clone compatible with FTDI interface. Unlike the one presented here, I chose to add the 1Kohm resistors on the FTDI interface. Obvious defect: the headers are the small machined round type, which can't fit square male pins. Both use free wires to feed them, a rather personal choice as I have an old stabilized power supply fitted with screw connectors. Think about replacing that if you intend to use it with a wall wart. Both feature the standard 10-pin AVR programming interface present on the USBASP, as I didn't want to make an adapter.

The second one took it further, on a 15x25 perfboard, and designed to use in projects where space may not be large. As you can see, I had to fit some bulky components under the Atmega socket, itself made from female headers to allow for more space, and still doesn't use first-choice components but what I could find locally. It has dual regulators, polarity protection diode (1N4004, an OK replacement for the MBR0520 - telling from memory - in this application), and the 3.3V is a SMD unit that happened to be large enough for regular pitch, fed from the 5V from the 78L05 to save on space. I know it only gives 100mA, and if you attempt to make your own, try using the 78M05, which gives 500mA in the same footprint. I just have a lot of 78L05 in the parts bin. To keep a low profile, I used small LEDs: green for power (connected to the 3.3V regulator), white for pin 13. Unlike other common colors, it still gives a very powerful light with a 1Kohm resistor yet calculated current is only 3 or so mA.

Headers are unlabeled but thanks to the paler material this should be easier, and they do respect proper separation between them. The solder side is filled to the brims, and I don't think you could go any smaller using single-side board and through-hole components. With Atmega inserted, notch to the right, pinout is identical to original Arduino. I discovered a bit later that the design I used, as well as the one presented here, is closer to the 2009 version of Arduino.

Approximate cost for one unit: $7.50 You can make them even cheaper buying from Chinese or Thai vendors. They typically sell 100-packs of 2% precision resistors for $1 or $2. Salvaging used electronic boards from TVs or stereos usually is usually messy, but can yield appreciable amounts of small, through-hole resistors, capacitors, etc. Just don't forget to check them against their specs. I trashed carbon-based resistors as well as capacitors because they were out of their 10 or 5% tolerances.

proto board: 25¢
Atmega 328 (no P, had to modify Arduino's IDE config file): ~2$
Headers: 15¢ for 40, probably 60¢ worth of them here.
LEDs: 30¢ each.
crystal: 50¢
capacitors: 15¢ each, so 1.35$ (not cheap!)
resistors: same, so 90¢
Regulators: 80¢ each.
Thin wire: I used phone wires, but wire-wrap style should be better. Cost unknown.

Cheap doesn't mean quick. Assembling a board from scratch and planning the routing in your head is a tedious process taking many hours, especially if, like me, you regularly unplug the soldering iron to relieve the tip.

IMG_0164.jpgIMG_0165.jpgIMG_0166.jpgIMG_0167.jpg
paddy99756 days ago

Is this own created board interface with android OS?

OR Can we able to use all these features which are provided by Arduino board?

Hi, I found this project very interesting and useful, but I had a crazy idea before, is it possible to build a complete arduino from scrap electric pieces ( resistors capacitors transistors etc... ) I know it will require much higher power but is it possible? How big will the board be?

You can't build the Atmega in the arduino boards from junk.

The others parts can be found in scrap, but the atmega can be almost impossible.

Hi, if i already have an ATmega328 with bootloader on it i dont need to get an arduino pcb, right?

It depends.

You will need a device to upload the codes, I generaly use a USB-Serial converter, you will need it because the Atmega don't talk directly to the PC.

You can use the serial from a arduino board to upload the codes too.

My converter is based on the CP2102 chip, but the ft232 is popular between the Arduino folks.

dcoptimum26 days ago

For a really easy Arduino design check out ours: http://www.dcoptimum.com/arduino-breadboard/

Simple Arduino.PNG
enxp1 month ago

Hi.

I didn't test this homemade solution yet but i guess it has the same HW settings and

characteristics like the original arduino board. If so, then tell me, would it be possible to use your board for purposes like this:

http://www.instructables.com/id/BLDC-Motor-Control...

?. Thank you in advance !

robobot31122 months ago

could i mix a deumilanove's chip in that way with the uno's. i mean like chip exchange.

Higgs Boson (author)  robobot31121 month ago

I don't see why not.

it would not get damaged would it?

dharm72 months ago
where is the usb plug port in the homemade circuit board , how to imply digital i/o pins ? how to connect the rx and tx ? can we program parallely to the board kindly reply to this question
Higgs Boson (author)  dharm71 month ago

For a USB connection you can plug an FTDI breakout board to the programming header and program it normally from the arduino IDE.

bwills42 months ago

Potentially stupid question from a newbie...what do I need to connect the breakout board to the arduino, and then to my pc?

Higgs Boson (author)  bwills41 month ago

The breakout board and a USB cable.

I use a crystal oscillator 27 MHS?

Higgs Boson (author)  ualbuquerque1 month ago

I think 16MHz is the maximum clock speed. Unless you wanted to overclock it...

lucianorueda3 months ago

Hi! great project! thanks!
Do you know anything about RC brusless motors?
How would you modify the circuit so you could use the arduino as an ESC (electronic speed controler) of a brushless motor?

I get lost when I try to handle the volts and amps hight velues that you have to handle with RC motors... (middle/big ones like 90A 24V)
I would like to build that arduino board!

Any thoughts?

Anyway, thaks!!! I will start with this and see next anyways!

Higgs Boson (author)  lucianorueda3 months ago

Hope this helps: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=5391.0

hey!, thanks for the link!, but unfortunately the conslution of it is not good for me!... it looks that my motor is too big, so I should use an ESC, I was trying to make and esc with the arduino, but it looks that I cant... at least with the motor that I am trying to use...

djsamm883 months ago

Send me the schematic to the circuit at my email PLEASE...
djsamm88.web.id@gmail.com

biraj10023 months ago
Send me the diagrams of arduino board at my email--
birajbhandari.asn@gmail.com
tnagchandi6 months ago
I really love the idea of making an arduino of our own.... thanx for such a nice explaination.
Can you please tell me that whether it can be used for bluetooth connectivity as for my project i need it.
Higgs Boson (author)  tnagchandi4 months ago

I believe I have seen people use arduino with bluetooth, so it is likely.

oghenevwogaga4 months ago
hi I am pretty amazed at this project, and will like to build my own, could you please send me the schematic to the circuit. (ogagaizoma@yahoo.com) thank you.
chan20055 months ago

you built this on my birthday

ra945 months ago

hi . does anyone here have pcb of this arduino ?

if have please send to me tnx .

raminsk8er@gmail.com

ra94 ra945 months ago

or schematic

Abirboy5 months ago

super i like it

mauro89286 months ago

Hi! I'm pretty amazed with this project and wanna try to do my own homemade Arduino board, so I'll really appreciate if you could please send me the schematic circuit to my email mauro-8928@hotmail.com. Thanks a lot!

syedj941 year ago
For those who are going with the breakout board or the Serial to USB converter chip, here is a cheap option: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-To-RS232-TTL-Auto-Converter-Module-Converter-Adapter-For-Arduino-DR-/350838170735?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51af95a46f
Its only a dollar with free shipping... reliable seller. But Its from China so It will take longer to ship
abrogard syedj947 months ago

I just went to eBay and these are listed at $51 ??

MoonDocker syedj9410 months ago
Thanks for the tip on the Serial to USB converter chip. I ordered 6 of them.
How do you program it without a connection to the computer or a set amount of storage
jmooney11 year ago
Arduinos for stupid people
mrinc jmooney18 months ago
Arduino is a rapid prototyping board that has made its way in to development.

So instead of wasting tons of time trying to develop custom things with pic programmers, you can create what you want fairly quickly.

You can then move your project to a programmable pic and custom project.

But most people seem to be using them in end projects too.
matronom jmooney19 months ago
no arduino is for people who wants program projects easier and faster, pic is hard to program and it takes away all the fun doing it
bashbash01 year ago
Hey mate, thanks for great work you did but i was wondering what software you are using to make the circuit as long as proteus not having all components
vasusrinu1 year ago
Hi,this is awsome. please send me the circuit diagram to my e-mail id
vasusrinu987@gmail.com.
send me the circuit diagram as early as possible...i made it but it is not working
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