Instructables
If your are like me which I am guessing you are, then ever since you got into doing stuff with arduino you have wanted to make your own arduino board. You may be surprised to find out that making the prototyping board is actually very easy, and can have several advantages over using the commercially sold board. For one thing, All the components together cost a little over 15 US dollars as opposed to the $30 that the Uno board sells for. second, you may not actually want a board, but may simply want the atmega chip as the heart of the project, like if you are making a synthesizer or even a robot. In that case, you can just attach the  hardware necessary to use the chip, and solder to the pins you need to use without needing the board. Another advantage is making shields. You have probably noticed that digital pins 7 and 8 are not the standard distance apart, which makes it difficult to make your own custom shields without paying the $15 dollars for a protoshield every time you make one. But if you make your own board on perfboard, the headers will be the standard distance apart and you can make your own shields with ease. Also, you may need to permanently add the board to your project, and for that you may not want to use the more expensive arduino boards. This board however is half the price, and easy to add to custom projects.

The only down side is that some parts of the arduino are kind of hard to build on perfboard. Most notably the Serial to usb adapter chip, which allows the microcontroller to interface with the computer through usb. You could use a good old RS232 jack, but they are not on a lot of newer computers. So to program your homemade board you will either need a break out board which does have the chip (get one here: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2117341_-1), or an arduino Uno or clone board to program the chip ( I used the former.)

Either way it is a fun and informative project.
 
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pkgdelion1 month ago

Help! help!! help!!!

Hello Guys, I am trying to manage the
movement of four(4) bit binary code over an Optical Link using Arduino
Board but am stucked, I don't know how to start.

Please I need Help

pkgdelion1 month ago

Help! help!! help!!!

Hello Guys, I am trying to manage the
movement of four(4) bit binary code over an Optical Link using Arduino
Board but am stucked, I don't know how to start.

Please I need Hel

thank you

hi. do i need atmega328 p-pu with optiboot for aduino (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10524) or it s ok atmega328 p-pu without optiboot (http://store.comet.srl.ro/Catalogue/Product/18656/) and what is the difference. Thank you!

robobot31125 months ago

could i mix a deumilanove's chip in that way with the uno's. i mean like chip exchange.

Higgs Boson (author)  robobot31125 months ago

I don't see why not.

it would not get damaged would it?

Higgs Boson (author)  robobot31121 month ago

At worst you might get a programming error, but the duemilanove uses the atmega168 I believe, which is identical to the 328 except it has 16k of program flash instead of 32k. But yeah, they have the same pinout and operating voltage so it should be fine.

thanks.

Cubytus made it!3 months ago

I actually made two of them. The first one was the square one. It is rather ugly and messy. No polarity protection, dissimilar regulators, mostly salvaged parts. The programming LED is the big yellow one, and I used a resistor too small (150 ohms), meaning using pin 13 would be problematic because of the high current draw. I made errors installing the headers, so there are extra, unconnected pins on both sides. Both units sought to fit the most complete Arduino clone compatible with FTDI interface. Unlike the one presented here, I chose to add the 1Kohm resistors on the FTDI interface. Obvious defect: the headers are the small machined round type, which can't fit square male pins. Both use free wires to feed them, a rather personal choice as I have an old stabilized power supply fitted with screw connectors. Think about replacing that if you intend to use it with a wall wart. Both feature the standard 10-pin AVR programming interface present on the USBASP, as I didn't want to make an adapter.

The second one took it further, on a 15x25 perfboard, and designed to use in projects where space may not be large. As you can see, I had to fit some bulky components under the Atmega socket, itself made from female headers to allow for more space, and still doesn't use first-choice components but what I could find locally. It has dual regulators, polarity protection diode (1N4004, an OK replacement for the MBR0520 - telling from memory - in this application), and the 3.3V is a SMD unit that happened to be large enough for regular pitch, fed from the 5V from the 78L05 to save on space. I know it only gives 100mA, and if you attempt to make your own, try using the 78M05, which gives 500mA in the same footprint. I just have a lot of 78L05 in the parts bin. To keep a low profile, I used small LEDs: green for power (connected to the 3.3V regulator), white for pin 13. Unlike other common colors, it still gives a very powerful light with a 1Kohm resistor yet calculated current is only 3 or so mA.

Headers are unlabeled but thanks to the paler material this should be easier, and they do respect proper separation between them. The solder side is filled to the brims, and I don't think you could go any smaller using single-side board and through-hole components. With Atmega inserted, notch to the right, pinout is identical to original Arduino. I discovered a bit later that the design I used, as well as the one presented here, is closer to the 2009 version of Arduino.

Approximate cost for one unit: $7.50 You can make them even cheaper buying from Chinese or Thai vendors. They typically sell 100-packs of 2% precision resistors for $1 or $2. Salvaging used electronic boards from TVs or stereos usually is usually messy, but can yield appreciable amounts of small, through-hole resistors, capacitors, etc. Just don't forget to check them against their specs. I trashed carbon-based resistors as well as capacitors because they were out of their 10 or 5% tolerances.

proto board: 25¢
Atmega 328 (no P, had to modify Arduino's IDE config file): ~2$
Headers: 15¢ for 40, probably 60¢ worth of them here.
LEDs: 30¢ each.
crystal: 50¢
capacitors: 15¢ each, so 1.35$ (not cheap!)
resistors: same, so 90¢
Regulators: 80¢ each.
Thin wire: I used phone wires, but wire-wrap style should be better. Cost unknown.

Cheap doesn't mean quick. Assembling a board from scratch and planning the routing in your head is a tedious process taking many hours, especially if, like me, you regularly unplug the soldering iron to relieve the tip.

IMG_0164.jpgIMG_0165.jpgIMG_0166.jpgIMG_0167.jpg
Higgs Boson (author)  Cubytus1 month ago

Nice! Looks good!

I made it, but just getting problem in programming it because I don't have any arduino board by which i can replace the ic....

Is there any alternative way to programme it......
temp_1035694878.jpg
Higgs Boson (author)  pardeep kumar1 month ago

You can get an FTDI breakout board, and connect that to the programming header. Set the the board to duemilanove (or any that use the ftdi converter chip) in the IDE and program as you normally would.

hakeeqjavid2 months ago

but how to program the atmega ic .... ?? just help me.....

Higgs Boson (author)  hakeeqjavid2 months ago

The 6 pin header is for hooking up to an FTDI breakout board which allows you to program it with the arduino IDE.

and is it atmega328pu or atmega328p-pu ???
Higgs Boson (author)  hakeeqjavid1 month ago

Either.

thanks

can i use 10uf electrolytic capacitor instead of tantalum capacitors?

I don't see why not.

pardeepvik2 months ago
please can you provide a video for how to program the arduino board...
paddy99753 months ago

Is this own created board interface with android OS?

OR Can we able to use all these features which are provided by Arduino board?

Hi, I found this project very interesting and useful, but I had a crazy idea before, is it possible to build a complete arduino from scrap electric pieces ( resistors capacitors transistors etc... ) I know it will require much higher power but is it possible? How big will the board be?

You can't build the Atmega in the arduino boards from junk.

The others parts can be found in scrap, but the atmega can be almost impossible.

Hi, if i already have an ATmega328 with bootloader on it i dont need to get an arduino pcb, right?

It depends.

You will need a device to upload the codes, I generaly use a USB-Serial converter, you will need it because the Atmega don't talk directly to the PC.

You can use the serial from a arduino board to upload the codes too.

My converter is based on the CP2102 chip, but the ft232 is popular between the Arduino folks.

dcoptimum3 months ago

For a really easy Arduino design check out ours: http://www.dcoptimum.com/arduino-breadboard/

Simple Arduino.PNG
enxp4 months ago

Hi.

I didn't test this homemade solution yet but i guess it has the same HW settings and

characteristics like the original arduino board. If so, then tell me, would it be possible to use your board for purposes like this:

http://www.instructables.com/id/BLDC-Motor-Control...

?. Thank you in advance !

dharm75 months ago
where is the usb plug port in the homemade circuit board , how to imply digital i/o pins ? how to connect the rx and tx ? can we program parallely to the board kindly reply to this question
Higgs Boson (author)  dharm75 months ago

For a USB connection you can plug an FTDI breakout board to the programming header and program it normally from the arduino IDE.

bwills45 months ago

Potentially stupid question from a newbie...what do I need to connect the breakout board to the arduino, and then to my pc?

Higgs Boson (author)  bwills45 months ago

The breakout board and a USB cable.

ualbuquerque5 months ago

I use a crystal oscillator 27 MHS?

Higgs Boson (author)  ualbuquerque5 months ago

I think 16MHz is the maximum clock speed. Unless you wanted to overclock it...

lucianorueda6 months ago

Hi! great project! thanks!
Do you know anything about RC brusless motors?
How would you modify the circuit so you could use the arduino as an ESC (electronic speed controler) of a brushless motor?

I get lost when I try to handle the volts and amps hight velues that you have to handle with RC motors... (middle/big ones like 90A 24V)
I would like to build that arduino board!

Any thoughts?

Anyway, thaks!!! I will start with this and see next anyways!

Higgs Boson (author)  lucianorueda6 months ago

Hope this helps: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=5391.0

hey!, thanks for the link!, but unfortunately the conslution of it is not good for me!... it looks that my motor is too big, so I should use an ESC, I was trying to make and esc with the arduino, but it looks that I cant... at least with the motor that I am trying to use...

djsamm886 months ago

Send me the schematic to the circuit at my email PLEASE...
djsamm88.web.id@gmail.com

biraj10026 months ago
Send me the diagrams of arduino board at my email--
birajbhandari.asn@gmail.com
tnagchandi9 months ago
I really love the idea of making an arduino of our own.... thanx for such a nice explaination.
Can you please tell me that whether it can be used for bluetooth connectivity as for my project i need it.
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