Context:
One office, one ethernet jack and two computers, or
One living room, one ethernet jack and one HTPC and one XBox.
If you can't realistically (without tearing apart walls or renting a scissor lift) pull one more ethernet cable from the patch panel to the office / living room etc. you can consider the use of an Ethernet "splitter".
I'm assuming all the four pairs of the ethernet cables are properly connected within the ethernet wallplate and the patch panel.
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Signing UpStep 1: What you need
- Two RJ45 Crimpable Plug
- Four RJ-45 keystone jack
- Short Ethernet Cable Scrap (approximately 2 feet)
- RJ45 Crimp Tool
- Craft knife
- 110 Punch Down Tool
- Loctite Super Glue










































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RJ45 Plug
1 White/Orange
2 Orange
3 White/Green
4 Blue
5 White/Blue
6 Green
7 White/Brown
8 Brown
Take the other end of the cable, cut it to 9 inches and punch down the four pairs using the following wiring scheme:
• Jack #1: T568B
1 White/Orange to pin 1keystone jack White/Orange
2 Orange to pin 2 keystone jack Orange
3 White/Green to pin 3 keystone jack White/Green
6 Green to pin 6 keystone jack Green
• Jack #2: T568B
4 Blue to pin 2 keystone jack (Orange)
5 White/Blue to pin 1 keystone jack (White/Orange)
7 White/Brown to pin 3 keystone jack (White/Green)
8 Brown to pin 6 keystone jack (Green)
I realise this is a couple of years old, but I wondered if I might ask you to check the text against the pictire.
Specifically, assuming the top left connector in the pic is pin 1, the colours don't match the text.
Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Regards, Phil
Thanks
1 White/Orange to pin 1
2 Orange to pin 2
3 White/Green to pin 3
6 Green to pin 6
4 Blue to pin 2
5 White/Blue to pin 1
7 White/Brown to pin 3
8 Brown to pin 6
The key is too keep the pairs together. Regards
Thanks
The adapters allowed me to operate two separate devices off of a SINGLE Cat 5 cable as long as I had two free router outputs.
Thanks to all the comments as in the end they saved me from running an additional cable.
The simple solution of using TWO cables is not feasible due to access issues and the DVD/Cable TV converter are NOT wireless.
I tried simple homemade splitters at BOTH ends of known good SINGLE cable but only the side with the green and orange wires functions. The standard is 56B. I have probably oversimplified my solution but if there is some simple trick short of patch boxes/switches it might save me and other users some money. I can not open the cable box to see how the output and input keystone connectors are wired. Am also not a network guy but did work on vacuum tube TVs back in the 60s so I can follow a wiring diagram.
Reviewing other comments did not seem to help but since so many had similar issues with one side not working I am led to believe that what I am trying to do is just not that simple. The cable TV company is of no help either as they do not understand why I would not simply drag another cable through the wall.
Any help most appreciated.
I'll admit, it's not a "big complicated project", but there's no reason to pick at people.
A simpler option is to just buy a network hub, they're pretty cheap (often $20 or less). This is similar to an un-powered hub, though this is incompatible with PoE and Gigabit.
As for DBLinuxLover's comment, what Instructable has he ever done ? 'nough said...
Engineers hoard the things at my new place of work. It's an easy tool to use to sniff network traffic.
I have attempted to do this to connect 2 computers to one modem, but it is not working. Only the oranges and greens are working. I'd like to use this concept to run 1 ethernet cable to my bedroom (from the basement) to connect 2 computers to the internet. Am I missing something or a step? I didn't really understand step 6...
Is performance reduced at all?
And where do you get your keystone jacks? They look really nice.
568A or 568B ?
then the connections might change....
Yes the 568A and 568B are different connections, but that's on the cable or termination on the jacks. All Jacks are built the same hence "structured cabling." You decide which wires are for what. In this case, you disregard the 568A or 568B standard when you configure the Splitter/Sharer.
We're borrowing the Unused 4 wires to run the 2nd 10/100MB Ethernet connection. PIN number 1,2,3, and 6 are the regular 10/100 on the 1st connection. We are borrowing the unused PIN number 4,5,7, and 8 to run the 2nd connection on the 8 wires on the Main(middle) cable. Then we swap back the wires for PIN 4,5,7, 8 to PIN 1,2,3, 6 for the 2nd jack which connects to the 2nd Device/Node because all Nodes and Devices will only sync with PIN 1,2,3, 6 on their RJ45 port to get 10/100MBps Ethernet connection.
The 2 Orange jacks connect to the Switch.
If you replicate 2 set of RJ45 Jacks on the picture for Step 3 on one CAT5 cable, then you can transmit and recieve 2 x 10/100Mbps Connections.
Good Luck.
You must be confused with "switch" and "patch panel". Thanks.
Your best bet with two computers and no router is to use the USB connection that's on most to connect the closer computer. It should have come with a disk to do just that, or you should be able to find drivers online.
To be more techy, I've yet to use a modem that has a DHCP server, which is necessary for a network. Most have even had trouble with changing what they're connected to, requiring a complete reset-to-defaults to even swap computers. A hub, splitter, or switch won't make a difference here, as there's still nothing managing the network, so you'll need a router.
Or, yes, there's Derin's suggestion. You'll need a crossover cable to connect the second computer, though, and I've had tons of headaches getting Windows to share its internet (though that's partly because of problematic wireless drivers).
The basics, though:
Modems almost never handle more than one computer connected to their ethernet. You'll need to connect the modem to a router for any setup with more than one computer, unless:
1) you use the USB connection to supply internet to one computer, and the ethernet for a second. Almost all modems now have a USB port, though you may need drivers for your modem to use it for internet access.
Or:
2) you connect the modem to a computer, and set it up as a proxy (also called "sharing the internet connection") for the other. Your proxy-ing computer will need two network connections, though, and the computer you connect it to will need to use a crossover cable. The second computer will also only have internet access if the first is on.
That said, it IS only brief, and networks are very good at handling interruptions without breaking. They even catch the errors and ignore bad data. You'll only notice the hiccup (if it occurs) if you're doing something extremely time-sensitive, like a fast-paced online game. And it shouldn't be a problem even then, unless your phone is literally constantly receiving calls.
And, again, I have not actually done this, only "heard tales", which could be mistaken.
Chris, According to your PDF diagram, I have done everything except, between splitter #1 & splitter #2, you see how you have 3 jacks on each side, We'll I only have 2 on each side. So my question this time is. Do I have to complete a jack on each end then break out from there into 2 more jacks, or am I missing something?