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Picture of How to make your own Fallout 3 helmet prop!
 Today I`m gonna show you how to make your very own Fallout 3 Power Armor helmet prop!
If you follow theese steps you should have a very nice looking prop!

 
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Step 1: Materials

Ok, theese are the materials and programs you need:

- Pepakura Designer 3: www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/
- Helmet.pdo: http://www.4shared.com/file/VaaygDPp/Power_Armour_Helmet__A4_.html
-Thick paper (Can be buyed at any Hardware store) 
- Fiberglass resin (Can be buyed at any marine shop) 
- Fiberglass mat (Can also be buyed at any marine shop)
- Bondo Body Filler (Can be buyed at any Hardware store)
- Dremel Multitool
- Spray paint (Can be buyed at any Hardware store)
- Gloves (Can be buyed at any Hardware store)
- Safety gasmask (Can be buyed at any Hardware store)


Step 2: Pepakura Progress

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Pepakura Designer 3 
 
Pepakura Designer allows you to create a development for paper craft easily from 3D data used in 3D CG software. You can load a 3d image and make adjustments (not featured in this tutorial) or you can load already saved files from Pepakura and print them out to assemble a 3d object using only paper! 
 
The .pdo files that are shared here are saved to be printed on A4 paper. This is a universal standard size paper, however it is not what is typically used here in the United States. To use 8 1/2" x 11" paper (Letter) or 8 1/2" x 14" paper (Legal) we will have to change the settings and manipulate the images to make sure they fit on the paper. But don't worry, we will cover that in this tutorial. ;-) 
 
If you are planning on using the print-outs from Pepakura to place onto another medium (such as cardboard or foam board) you can easily print the designs on regular computer or copy paper. However, if you plan on using your printed pieces of paper as your main structure, I recommend printing on card stock paper. You can find bundles of card stock at just about any paper store, or for a much easier (and probably cheaper) find, head over to your local Wal-Mart. 

Step 3: Cutting and Folding

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This is a tutorial on how to fold the lines on Pepakura correctly and clean.
Cut only the Solid lines!!! do not cut the dotted ones!!

Picture coming soon

1. Your going to need 2 Pens and a ruler. Make sure that the 2 pens are each different colors.)

2. You must assign the pens to a certain fold. (remember you must keep them the same through out the procedure)

Example:
Red Pen = Valley fold lines (--- - --- - --- - --- -)
Blue Pen = Mountain fold lines (- - - - - - - - - - - -)

3. Cut out the piece you are going to be folding.

4. Set up the Ruler so it is parallel to the line you are going to score, make sure that it is a bit close.

5. Then your going to want take the pen you assigned to valley fold or mountain fold and go over the line 3 or 4 times pressing semi hard with the ruler as a guide to keeping the pen straight and on the original line. 

6. Once you have done that you may fold the paper accordingly to come out as a nice clean fold.


Yes this may add more time to the making of your helmet, but in the end you are stunned with a nice looking piece. 

 

 


Step 4: Putting it all Together

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Step 3: putting it all together.

You will need your choice of glue. I reccomend hot glue but this may cause burns. Normal elmers glue dries way too slow so it is not recommended.

When putting peices together its important to know how they go together. For example
1 will go to 1
2 will go to 2
3 will go to 3
Anything will go with another number that is the same. Put a dab of glue on the tab and secure it to its corrosponding edge.

Step 5: Resining

 

----------Resining with "Resin"----------

Get Materials Together
Materials: 
- Resin
- Liquid hardener
- Brush(s), reallys it's personal preferance
- Container(top of resin can)
- Tinfoil(to put inside container so it can be reused)
- Mixing stick or the like
- Knife/Scissors

Before you jump into any thing you first want to make sure you're in a well ventilated area and you have a large enough work area for the piece you will be working on.

Step 1) The first thing you need to do is clean the surface of the object that you will be resining. Make sure it is free of debris and foreign objects.

Step 2) Next add the correct amount of Liquid Hardener. (READ DIRECTIONS!! Too much will cause the resin to harden within a couple minuets.)

Mix the two together for 10-15seconds and remove stiring stick.(wipe off excess resin on stick.)

>>>WARNING: Never mix a new batch with an old one, the onld will start to harden the new one instantly<<<

Step 3) Now dip your brush into the resin and load it up with a moderate amount, not dripping off. If there is excess just wipe it on the edge of the container so that it flows back in.

Apply the resin to your piece starting at the seams first and the working your way around. You start at the seam to make sure it gets a healty amount of resin to give it support.

Remember to work quickly as the clock is against you. After you have used the desired amount of resin on the piece let it dry.


 

 

 


Step 6: Fiberglassing

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 FIBRE GLASSING


***Take the usual precautions as above; work in a well ventilated area, cover your work space, wear a respirator, and so on.

Now after that has been done get your tools and materials ready(again)

Part 1) After you have your tools and materials ready go ahead and lay out your fibre glass sheet

Part 2) Next you want to cut your sheet in half

Part 3) After you have your sheet cut in 2 fold up one half and put it to the side for the time being.

Part 4) With the half sheet you have in front of you cut it in half again, then cut half of that in half.

Part 5) Now it is time to cut the sheets into strips for easier workability.
Try and aim for strips roughly 3" wide.
the long ones should be approximately 3"x14" and the short ones 3"x8"
After that stack them together

Part 6) Now take your piece (helmet in this case) and set it on your table.
Use some tape to make any nessecary adjustments





Step 7: Detailing

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How to mix bondo body filler:

1) Get a FLAT clean surface made of plastic or metal (plywood is not acceptable). 

2) Scoop a 4" diameter dollop of filler onto the surface.

3) Squeeze out a 1-3" line of hardener. A 1" line is what is called mixing the putty "cold". This means you will have more time to work with it, but it takes considerably longer to dry. If you use too little hardener it will never dry and will always be sticky. If you use a full 3" line of hardener you will be mixing it "hot" This will give you quick drying times and a very hard finish. Unfortunately it will be more brittle than mixing it cold. 2" is the median and is what I would recommend.

Using a putty knife, fold the hardener vigorously into the putty so that it is mixed evenly. Don't take too long doing this or the filler will begin to harden while you are mixing. 

Now carefully apply a generous amount of putty to the area you are trying to fill or shape. 

When the putty is hard but can still be dented by your fingernail use a small Sureform file to roughly shape the putty. You can also use some 80 grit sandpaper for this. 

Now allow the putty to cure completely. When cured it will be hard like plastic, and will be giving off no heat. 

Now do your final forming with some 360 grit sandpaper, elbow grease and finish it up with 1200 grit for painting. 

Step 8: Painting Your Helmet

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Painting your helmet

Thanks to Adam:


Use the same technique as Adam uses here on your Fallout helmet, just use other colours.


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Cakeatron4 days ago
How much of the bondo body filler and fiberglass resin/mat would you need? Idk if u can still answer but i love it! Thanks

what thickness of paper???

I am still unsure about the scale. What values should I input please? I am 5feet 4 (or 163cm. Please help me! Thanks! =D

hillbill54911 months ago

would the same steps apply to making a fallout New Vegas NCR Ranger helmet

Mr Sin1 year ago
When I'm on the files to download, which one is it, there is about 3 of them???
Suggestion? Take your time on the bondo process, make sure everything is nice and smooth before you even think about going on to the next step. Several LONG hours and some patience could make you a museum worthy piece, if you do it right.

I've been doing pepakura and modeling for a few years now. It took me a while to figure out the process and how much of what I need, where I needed it. Everything on these pepakura projects takes a butt load of time, if you don't have time, don't start one.

I think you still did an excellent job! Very nice! :)

(Ill be putting my Custom Mandolorian Helmet up in a few months once it's all done btw!)
TryHonesty14 (author) 5 years ago
Hey everyone! =) The broken link is now fixed! =D I will respond faster next time! =) Best Regards Michael
hey can you give me a link to how to make that helmet please.
And are the eyes open or did you put some kind of plastic on them?  Would it work to put plastic or goggle lenses or something on the eyes?
 Would they fog up if you did?
I'm not sure if they would fog up, me and my dad are putting one together, and we might just use Sunglass lenses. I'm concerned about the mouth though, there's a pattern in there but it's not in the Pepakura pile.
Braeburn3 years ago
Amazing. I'll have to remember to use this to make something for Youmacon next year (Since I forgot this year :P)
hunter1524 years ago
dude thats the best master chief costume ive ever seen thats sick
umm dude that isn't a master chief helmet it is from fallout three.
Im about 99 percent sure that they were talking about the video
DCDT hunter1523 years ago
Can't tell if trolling...
jroll13 years ago
T-51B Armor if I am correct? Yes?
No, its t-45d :)
bendog384 years ago
Buyed??? You mean "Bought"?
xhonzi5 years ago

This step seems a little vague.  Am I just laying the fibreglass cloth on top of the resin, or is it supposed to set in at all?  Do I need to cover the entire thing with fibreglass, or just enough to support the Bondo used in the next step?

Is there a certain window of time I need to be in since the resin step?

Thanks!

TryHonesty14 (author)  xhonzi5 years ago
Hello
First you need to cover the whole helmet with just the resin ca. three times (Add layers untill it is more solid). Then when the resin have dryed you can start to add the fiberglass mats on the inside of the helmet, ONLY ON THE INSIDE! or else you ruin the details on the helmet. Just soak small pieces of the mat and push it into place with a brush, and make sure it stayes... Do this on the whole insite of the helmet and youre done (With that step) :)
Good Luck!

Best Regards Michael
Sorry Im really new to all this stuff. This will be my first project in this regard, but anyways. So do I only use the fiber glass cloth on the inside and I would just leave the resin itself on the outside? Then I put the Bondo on the outside after the resin dries? And by "soak" do you mean soak the fiber glass cloth in water and then stick it inside the helmet after the fiber glass dries? I apologize again for botherin ya.
whompbus4 years ago
I'm about 3/4 through the power helmet paper assembly and wanted to mention instead of using hot glue, I use water based contact cement (Lepages). It dries very quickly (seconds!), doesn't smell and is super easy to clean up. Once dry, it's a lot like latex.

Brotherhood of Steel is the inspiration for the graffiti on our favorite project RV:

http://www.whompbus.com/gallery.php?spgf=080210

I love Fallout 3 and really appreciate you posting this tutorial! Pepakura is amazing and cannot wait to start on the armor and many other projects.


Thank you from the whompbus crew!
i looked at this holding my newest prop:RAD-X
sabladask4 years ago
cool!
you from norway??
A_Dunks4 years ago
Wow this is truly amazing, im working on mine right now but the quality is not what i want... im hoping that maybe i could get some putty or sculpting clay to smooth out and cover up the MANY rough edges and hot-glue spots. I'm almost considering restarting but with all the time and effort Ive put in so far it'll kill me to do it all over again. Mines also slightly angled oddly :-/
this may seem a little bit stupid, but just to make sure, WHEN YOU PUT THE MATT IN AND YOU ARE WAITING FOR IT TO DRY DONT FLIP IT RIGHT SIDE UP. it all fell out the bottom of the helmet.
1297golumb4 years ago
can i use some sun glases or something like that for the ejes???
Hey the Brotherhood of steel is awesome. My first helmet I made I used a Darth Vader helmet but now you inspired me to make a better real one. Thanks
Paladin long signing off
gomas2114 years ago
hey upload instructions for the helmet
Roceifin4 years ago
amazing job!! my first one is a odst....or odst head and other spartan program parts
Delo97 Roceifin4 years ago
You should make an instructable out of it.
Roceifin Delo974 years ago
i might but theres just soo many out there, im sticken to youtube vids but ill post umm in instructables
marshon4 years ago
Cool work my friend.
Cpt. Caleb4 years ago
great stuff, I've made more than a few fiberglassed helmets and know how much "fun" resin can be. well done
hi, i am going to follow and adapt your helmet to build both an Enclave helmet and a Hellfire helmet thanks for the guidance
nenaptio5 years ago
yea, and file is deleted
TryHonesty14 (author)  nenaptio5 years ago
I am sorry about that, and i will try to fix it as soon as possible =) Best regards Michael =)
yay! thanks
can someone post a link for a Helmet file, the mediafire link says it was deleted.
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