Introduction: How to Make Your Own Metal Pulse Magnetizer

Picture of How to Make Your Own Metal Pulse Magnetizer

Four weeks ago I was searching for an magnetizer that can revive my dead magnets (I killed them heating up at a high temperature, trying to encapsulate in a piece of glass), but I haven't found a instructable project that can help me, so with physics teacher's support  I made one that works.
With it's help you can revive dead or old magnets, or you can magnetize things like screwdrivers, nails, paperclips, or any metal which can be a good magnet.
It looks like a game console, isn't it ?
This device is only a PROTOTYPE, so maybe I will try to make a big one that can magnetize your hammer.
Now let's start the work.

Step 1: Materials

Picture of Materials

The materials you need for this project are:

- a 1N4007 diode
- a DPST switch (I get mine from an old computer)
- a Push button switch (or how it is called)
- a jack and a capacitor(230 uF and 400 V) from an old power supply unit
- a plastic, wood, Plexiglas, or any material you found, but NO metals like iron, steel, aluminum, copper or any metal that are atracted
by magnets.
- a 15 W, 220 V lamp
- copper wire for making a coil (0.6 mm diameter for 800 turns)
- something on you can spool your coil (I use a plastic support from solder with inner diameter 20 mm [don't use something that have the inner diameter bigger than 20 mm because then your magnetizer will not work])
- a cable for your jack (I use an ordinary cable for PC supply), why I use it ? because it can be removed.
-two plastic panels (I made them because my case needs panels )
- 20 cm of thick copper wire (2-3 mm diameter) 
Watch out how you handle the capacitor. If it is charged, and you touch it, you can die.
Try to make the capacitor's links with push button switch and with coil as short as you can,

Step 2: Make the Coil, the Panels, Paint Them and the Case

Picture of Make the Coil, the Panels, Paint Them and the Case

You are free to choose your own case, so you're free to make it how do you like.
You can see in the third image the color of case before painting in black.
I make the panels from keyboard's back.
The hole from the fourth images is made for the DPST switch.
Be careful when you make the coil because if you let the wire from your hand, you must start again.

Step 3: Make the Circuit

Picture of Make the Circuit

Let's start soldering.
The links which need thick wire are between capacitor and push button switch and between coil and capacitor.

Step 4: Assembling the Pulse Magnetizer

Picture of Assembling the Pulse Magnetizer

I stick the coil with hot glue on the back of the front panel, and the capacitor on the bottom of the case.
I drill a hole through the top of the case and stick a piece of blue transparent plastic to see the light.
I stick a piece of plastic on a side of inner space from the coil because when you push the button of the switch, the magnet or the thing you use will be throw out, depends of the size of the thing. If you are touching the thing while you push the button, you will feel the pulse passing through the thing. Stick it as good as you can, because little things like nails can detach your plastic.
I stick the DPST switch and the PC power supply jack of their panel putting hot glue among them.
I drill a hole through the top of the case for the push button switch. 
I stick of the bottom of the case four pieces of rubber which can be found on the bottom of a keyboard to increase the stability of my device.

Step 5: How It Works

Picture of How It Works
The diode D1 rectifies mains voltage and charge the capacitor via the lamp (which limit the current).
The lamp glows during the capacitor's charging. The light is diminishing as the capacitor is charging. When the capacitor is charged,  the lamp is off. 
After few seconds the capacitor is charged and the light goes off.
By pushing the S2 button, a pulse of high current (aprox 50 A) passes through the coil magnetizing the object placed inside the coil.
This process can be repeated.
The magnetizer is simple, effective, made from salvanged parts.
To understand better how it works look at the first two images, watch the video below and then view the other images.

Step 6: Further Research

Picture of Further Research

I connect a oscilloscope with my pulse magnetizer via a probe.
Then I try to take a shot of the pulse, but unfortunately I caught only the tail of the pulse, the peak is too fast for my camera.

Step 7: Future Projects

You can see that the pulse throw out the object, so a future project could be a magnetic rifle.
If I modify the circuit and I make it bigger, I can make an EMP.
And that's it my Pulse Magnetizer.
Thanks to my phisycs teacher for supporting me.


kader786 made it! (author)2017-10-03

sir i have 1 prbl i have magnetic tripping relay as its magnet power has bacame low so how cna i charge it its of rccb pls help

atlanteanscion (author)2015-04-15

Does it only magnetize iron?

Only iron nails and iron screwdrivers I had then, but I think this article will tell you more than I can.

PaoloG38 (author)andreyeurope2016-09-21

You should really try it with a ferrite magnet, although I kindly doubt this setup can produce the H field required to fully magnetize it ( ~900,000 A/m).
Ferrite magnets are considered the easiest to magnetize among the generally available materials.

There's a programm called FEMM (finite element method magnetics) which lets you simulate and calculate the minimum current, turns and solenoid size you need to produce the very strong field necessary to build a useful magnetizer that can revive ferrite magnets.
Not that this device is useless, it's really a nice proof of concept, but any small magnet can successfully magnetize an iron nail...
The real deal is to remagnetize high coercivity materials such as hard ferrite such as the common C5, C8 or Y30 grades..

LimingZ (author)2014-11-24

I would suggest the usage of a GFCI receptacle to improve safety, even for prototyping.

MarkT7 (author)2014-11-18

With regards to the tip on making the coil, "Be careful when you make the coil because if you let the wire from your hand, you must start again"... I'm not sure what this means... the above instructions give no explicit direction for how to make the coil in the first place, so I'm unclear how is it supposed to be built without using your hands. Between that and the fact that the photo appears to show someone touching it with their finger, I'm very uncertain what is being said here.

andreyeurope (author)MarkT72014-11-19

I meant if When you are making the coil, be careful in order not to let the wire go, because if you let it go, you will need to start over,
Making a coil is really easy, you need a certain type of wire that depends on what you want to do with that coil. If you intend to learn how to make a coil, you can read this article.
I'm sorry if I confused you.
Have a nice day.

yveg (author)2013-07-16

Please e-mail me if you can help.

yveg (author)2013-07-14

I would like to have a very small emp device. I am willing to pay for all the expenses. Please let me know if any of you can help.

andreyeurope (author)yveg2013-07-15

OK. I will research a little about mini Emp, but tell me, what do you wanna do with it ?

AlbinoMoose308 (author)2013-04-10

Any chance you can make a demagnetizer? I have this huge magnet that magnetizes anything it touches. Not very much, but enough to cling to things and get annoying.

Maybe I'll make one just for you. You could demagnetize almost every magnet heating it.

nerd7473 (author)2013-04-05

I love magnetism

mbrito1 (author)2013-02-17

Hi, I`m sure that in digital scope you have the option to set a specific level of tension in the trigger, that capture a screen from that moment (single capture ore something like that), but I don`t remember if exits the same in a analog one, take a look at the trigger options.

andreyeurope (author)mbrito12013-02-18

I don't think it have one. That oscilloscope wasn't very expensive, so I don't think it have something to take a snap.

Treknology (author)2013-01-30

Imagine the pulse you could get using the transformer and capacitor from a microwave oven...

Treknology (author)Treknology2013-01-31

I am still angered at how many people have negatively criticised this project. The author is a school student and this is only his second project. We all had to start somewhere. Even if the capacitor is rated at 400V, it is never going to charge beyond the mains voltage of 220-240V. There are many un-earthed appliances that rely on plastic insulation to keep the electricity inside, among the most dangerous being hair dryers and hand-held kitchen mixers.

Yet no one has mentioned just how dangerous my suggestion above would be!

1. The capacitor, on average, is capable of holding 3kVDC maybe even as high as 5kVDC. It would have to remain properly housed in the modified microwave oven just in case it exploded.

2. The button to dump the capacitor into the magnetizing coil would have to be a very heavy industrial switch----if a 'domestic' switch did not start arcing almost immediately, the contacts would probably weld together into a short circuit on its very first use.

If you must "criticise", then please use the "be nice" policy. Why would andreyeurope want to post a third project if it was only going to attract the same negative responses?

ElectroFrank (author)Treknology2013-02-04

Mr Treknology, please stop trying to teach when you obviously know very little about mains AC electricity.

I have to be firm about this for everyone's safety, including yours.

Any home-built mains powered circuit should be checked by an electrician or properly qualified person for safety BEFORE it is connected to the mains supply.

On 250 Volt AC mains, the capacitor will charge to 350 Volts.

A capacitor must never be charged above its rated voltage.   It is liable to explode.

But you are correct about the requirement for a high current switch.

Treknology (author)ElectroFrank2013-02-06

Please read the entire thread(s). The safety and voltage issues have already been corrected.

Indy_Rider (author)Treknology2013-01-31

Actually, he is safer than that as the cap only sees half the wave, so 110-120V peak, with an average DC voltage that is lower. So no issues there.

Only thing might be need to watch is the diode as it's rated at 1A max, but should be okay, a fuse would be a good idea though.

ProCactus (author)Indy_Rider2013-02-01

What a load of croc.
220-240v peek Sinusoidal Alternating Current Halfwave Rectified = 310-330 volts DC.

Treknology (author)ProCactus2013-02-01

As this particular thread is aimed at the "be nice" policy, I am offended that you have "corrected" Indy_Rider with an opening line, "What a load of croc."

Yes, the capacitor should eventually reach a peak charge in the 300VDC range. No, your language is inappropriate.

ProCactus (author)Treknology2013-02-01

Your Right!
Im sorry.
Some comments are dangerous, I felt I to make an impact on that kind of croc. A lot of people dont realize small mistakes like that will put you on the Darwin awards. Not that most people still wont touch 110v.

Thanks for your comment

aarons123 (author)Treknology2013-01-31

A fuse only protects the equipment, It surprises me that no one except me is saying just use an RCD, they trip with any earth leakage above 30mA (normally)

General safely like make sure the wires you use are rated for the voltage, is just standard practice. this protect (in my country) would run on 230V and CB's and fuses would be rated at 16amps, you would be dead many times over and they wouldn't even notice. At the end of the day most people on this site aren't electricians, we need to make sure these people are safe. RCD's is what you need.

Treknology (author)aarons1232013-02-01

Where I live, ELCBs are a standard requirement. The only household circuit exempt is that supplying the refrigerator and freezer.

dealowis (author)2013-02-05

its a great idea, my family member love it :D

andreyeurope (author)dealowis2013-02-05

Thank you, Dealowis.

tolstoyan (author)2013-01-31

i seriously going to build this, just one question what did you use to cover the coil? the black thing in the picture hehehe
very nice project though.;

tolstoyan (author)tolstoyan2013-01-31

and also can i add 50 more turn to the coil is that okay?

andreyeurope (author)tolstoyan2013-02-01

It's ok adding 50 turns. The black thing is the coil covered with tape.

tolstoyan (author)andreyeurope2013-02-01

will that add the magnetizing effect?

andreyeurope (author)tolstoyan2013-02-02

What do you mean ? If you would say that it will do the same job, yes.

tolstoyan (author)andreyeurope2013-02-04

i already bought the materials needed, ill post you some updates with your projects hehehe

bosherston (author)2013-02-03

Pretty tricky to do if your camera doesn't have a "B" setting (open shutter).
You have access to a video camera, may I suggest another vid clip? Grab the frame that shows the pulse.
Nice project btw. You have done the proof of concept, how about looking at any criticisms and see if there's anything you could work into v2.0?

andreyeurope (author)bosherston2013-02-03

Now I'm working at my magnetic stirrer V2.0, but in the near future I will also make the pulse magnetizer v2.0.
I will think of making a new video. By the way, the photos were taken with a smartphone camera.
Thank you.

bosherston (author)andreyeurope2013-02-03

Yes I saw the stirrer, great work there too, so I look forward to V2.0.

Another covering idea for the magnet would be to smother it in bathroom sealant silicone - probably even more inert than hot glue?
You could make a mould out of a biro tube or similar, pump it full of silicone, insert magnet, top up with more silicone and when set gently break out of the tube and trim.

" were taken with a smartphone camera."

Ah but if your video was taken using your smartphone too, then it's even easier to grab an image that captures that pulse spot-on. Just an idea if you need to capture a transient event. : )

bosherston (author)bosherston2013-02-03

I forgot to add - go colourful and use Sugru.

UKTech (author)2013-01-27

This appears to be sooooo dangerous, I can't believe a teacher was any part of this project.
No fuse on a mains project, things stuck with glue instead of being fixed properly, items being thrown out, I could go on and on.
Please amment this project before someone get hurt or worse.
I admire you for having a go but this project wants building properly.

your_dragon113 (author)UKTech2013-02-02

The only "Dangerous" thing I see here are all the comments putting down the Author. I could point out MANY projects that have had a "Teachers" insight and/or input. I should think that you've thrown out your cellphone, I-Pod/Pad and any other devices that require 5VDC chargers(as I've yet to see such a charger that has a fuse on/in it). and PLEASE don't tell me that you've NEVER replaced a burnt out lightbulb without making 100% sure that you've pulled the fuse from the MAINS panel or triped the Breaker on said MAINS panel!

I couldn't POSSIBLY count the number projects that involve electricity and HOT GLUE; It holds fast when it returns to a Solid AND it does not conduct.

"fixed properly, items being thrown out"

...the only thing I see being thrown out is your poor use of English; the word is "Amend" not "Amment'(please change the spelling of your criticism..." before someone get hurt or worse".

The Author had a need and came to this site for help. He/She was forced to look elsewhere and sought out a teacher who was able to assist. The Author then took that teaching and put it to use to complete the answer to the question asked. FIRST we get the Basic idea made into a working thing...THEN we see what can be done to make it Better. I don't see any Instructables under your Nick...lets see YOU do better.

The Instructable is simple, fairly safe(if ANYTHING is going to'll be the inline lamp!) and serves its task very well. I give the project 8/10!

Thank you, Your_dragon113

Treknology (author)UKTech2013-01-30

A fuse probably would be a good idea but as the electrics are all inside an insulated case, I think some of the safety "concerns" are a little over-cautious. After all this IS a prototype.

RetroTechno (author)Treknology2013-01-30

Actually, an insulated case can make things more dangerous. I know this sounds counter-intuitive. Imagine if, somehow, electricity goes outside the box (a failure in one of the switches or a breakdown in your coil insulation, are two examples which come to mind). Then the electricity will sit there, waiting to choose the person as its path. A conductive housing which is connected to the mains ground is much safer. Of course, you should fuse the mains supply as well. Fuses are cheap and can be replaced.

aarons123 (author)RetroTechno2013-01-31

That is true, but a fuse isn't there to protect you. You need a fixed or portable RCD in order to effectively minimize the risk. Putting a fuse in will only help protect components an wire.

Treknology (author)RetroTechno2013-01-30

I stand by my original statement. This is a prototype, not a professional product.

Can we please start encouraging the author rather than deriding him?

jamwaffles (author)UKTech2013-01-31

You've got this all wrong. The OP just wants to raise awareness for the Darwin Awards. Seriously, if you manage to kill yourself making this, it's your own damn fault.

trekman (author)2013-01-31

How will the circuit change for 120 volt as the input voltage? Will the Diode, coil and the Cap be different?

Treknology (author)trekman2013-02-01

Build it based on the existing circuit specs. Use a local 120VAC bulb instead, and double the size of the capacitor.

minimax (author)2013-01-28

There are no safety issues. The lamp limits the current through capacitor and coil. There are no shorts! No need for fuse. Even the capacitor fails, the lamp will glow normally.

You can keep the device connected to mains indefinitely: the capacitor will stay charged until you push the discharge button.

Ferromagnetic materials are in fact ATTRACTED to the center of the coil: they vibrate and stuck in the center. Only magnets can be thrown outside or inside, regarding the alignment of the magnet poles.

aarons123 (author)minimax2013-01-31

Firstly, there is always a risk when using mains. what happens if you get a short before the Light bulb?

The problem isn't always shorts, insulation breakdown and leakage to ground (through people) is really the concern.

aarons123 (author)aarons1232013-01-31

Oh I forgot to mention you can die from 50mA across the heart, The light bulb will only limit it to 60mA. I may get reported for this. But please don't go commenting on stuff which is potentially life threatening. 220V light bulb at 60mA is more than enough to kill you.

About This Instructable




Bio: I enjoy making things by myself, trying to make this world better.
More by andreyeurope:3D printable Satellite ChargerMake your own Magnetic Stirrer 2SHow to make your own Metal Pulse Magnetizer 2
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