How to Make Your Truck/vehicle Sound Beastly! for $30 (exhaust/muffler)

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Introduction: How to Make Your Truck/vehicle Sound Beastly! for $30 (exhaust/muffler)

This instructable will explain in depth how to rework your exhaust system to make it purr/roar/growl (which ever description you like)

NOTE ABOUT THE VIDEO, AND I WANT TO PUT THIS NOTE RIGHT HERE TO MAKE SURE EVERYONE SEES THIS NOTE..... THE FIRST PART OF THE RECORDING, THE CAMERA WAS REALLY CLOSE TO THE ENGINE, SO THE CAMERA PICKED UP THOSE SOUNDS.... I HAD NO IDEA BECAUSE WHEN I WAS THERE WHERE THE CAMERA WAS, IT SOUNDED FINE.... AND THEN THE SECOND PART WHEN I DIDTHE CAMERA ADJUSTMENT, WAS DOWN THE SIDE.... NOT RIGHT BY THE MUFFLER, BUT ON THE SIDE NEED THE PASSENGER DOOR KINDA.... BUT IM REALLY HAPPY WITH IT... ILL GET SOME MORE SOUNDS UP IF THIS GET POSITIVE FEEDBACK.... OR IF ANYONE REQUESTS IT........ HOPE YOU LIKE......AND I SWEAR TO GOD IT WAS BECAUSE OF THE HILL!!!

id also like to say that if there is another instructable about this...(yes i did search) then ill delete mine..... unless mine is totally better

First off I'd like to appologize for no pictures. I know even after i appologize for this people are still going to complain. but ive already done this to my truck, i didnt think about instructables because time was against me (needed my truck up and running to go to school tommorow) but again sorry for no pictures, cuz there is no way im putting it back the old way so i can show pictures..... if i ever do this to another vehicle ill be sure to take pictures.

but due to the lack of pictures i will try to detail as much as possible.
also I'll try to get around to getting audio up of what my truck sounds like (ok i have the sound now.... sorry sound quality is bad.... and also i wish i had a before recording of it :( )

basically we're going to remove the muffler (NOT THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER!, thats illegal)

oh one more thing, this instructable is designed for those who are lucky enough (or in some others opinion, unlucky) to have clamps that hold their pipes together {see 2nd picture}

i repeat: pipes are not welded together. pipes ARE held together with clamps...... note* the way its held together (weld/clamp) only matters for the two connections on the muffler.

Step 1: Aquire Tools

You will definatly need an adjustable wrench

it is recommended to use a ratchet/socket wrench ? see photo, im bad with tool names
have an assortment of fittings, i used 4 types 10 mm, 13mm, 14mm, and 15mm. (fricken metric system)

if you dont use a ratchet/socket wrench then you'll need 2 adjustable wrenches

possibly (and in my case) a compressor and a die grinder. if you dont have either of those.... youll need a hand saw or whatever kinda saw you can find that will work, and alot of patience.

possibly a flat headscrew driver and a hammer

Step 2: Aquire Materials

you'll need some strait pipe, use common sense when picking.... for measurement.... and also.... i ended getting the flexible type, because the store was out of the regular.... but i lucked out because it needed to make a slight curve

and you'll NEED! a muffler tip.... well not need but there is a huge difference
i ended up buying one of those $20 bolt on types... cheap, yes, i know.... but isnt that what we do here on instructables...... but you can choose whatever you want

and a couple of clamps..... see pic

Step 3: Unattach

the way i did this.......

take out every bolt associated with the exhaust system, well only up to the Catalytic converter. the converter should be the last piece coming off. this step is pretty simple, even though it actually takes a little while, theres really not much to explain....

once you have it unattached bring it over to a clear spot to work.... for me ... it was my front lawn.

you should now have this set up (well its what i had)

( the "-" represent a connection)

(Cat-conv) - (muffler) - (pipe, pipe pipe,pipe)
(bushes)
(New strait pipe{laying off to the side by the bushes})
(bushes)

so there should be clamps at each of the "-" unbolt thosetake it off save it for that one day a few years from now, when.... for some reason youll need it, even though you went out and bought 2 new clamps (right?)



this pic is my computers wallpaper :)

Step 4: Attempt to Simply Pull Apart

ok, so heres the part i wish i got to do.

before resorting to grinding, try to see if you can just simply pull apart the "-" 's

try twisting and pulling and all of that stuff

if you get them apart then your damn lucky i swear to god, if you cant get them apart then go onto the next step. if they do simply pull apart, skip step 5, go to 6

also, just for fun, after trying to pull them apart. and you decided thats not going to work. make a bet on which one is going to be easier to remove once you hit it with the die grinder. ....... you'll be wrong :) lol

Step 5: Grind Slits

ok so what you need to do, since pulling didnt work

is grind a line down the pipe... (the pipe of which belongs to the muffler), you should see two indentation marks, from the pressure,

heres the muffler


| |


| |


the axis on which you will be cutting is this



NOT!

|
|
|

so start with one connection and cut a line ... where ive explained, and then use a hammer and a flat head to pry up flaps of the pipe and make it a little loose.... for me, one side only needed one cut, the other side needed four cuts.

Step 6: Once Youve Pulled It Apart

ok, so now youve got your pieces pulled apart with either step 4 or 5

now you should have this


(Cat-conv) (pipe, pipe, pipe, pipe, pipe) (brand new strait pipe{now not near bushes})


(bushes)
(muffler{now by bushes})
(bushes)
so just put it together

(cat-conv)-(brand new strait pipe)-(pipe,pipe,pipe,pipe)

one the "-" 's hopefully you figured out with common sense to use the new clamps and put them on

Step 7: Reassemeble

remember step 3?

yea basically do the opposite

put the system back in its place and put every bolt back in nice and snug.

Step 8: Done/muffler Tip

ok, either your done at this point
and youve only spent $10 on that pipe

or now you can spend $20 on a cheap bolt on.... or if you have access to any other means... than do it
trust me you want the muffler, it gives the sound shape....... and then just put it on


so you just spend $10-30 and you have a beastly sounding exhaust

ok im gonna go get a video... i dont care about picture too much, i just want to upload the sound of it.... yea

k bye,... enjoy

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    77 Comments

    1985 Yugo - 3 cyl street mod, tubbed and blown (hair dryer) last 1/4 @ 27.5 seconds.
    Fuck you all... my next beast is a Prancer

    Hmm, all these loud mufflers are getting a little old. When i hear one i don't think "wow, that guys car is probably pretty bad-ass," i think "Wow, that guy just put a $20 muffler tip on his truck or car." Heres a secret, that coffee-can/fart-pipe muffler is not nearly as impressive as you think. take your money and make your car *actually* run better.

    I'm going to give $10 to the first person to make an instructable about modifying your muffler to make your engine completely silent. That, i think, would be cool.

    11 replies

    Same here, I like the deep sound on a truck or sport coupe but not on anything else (Honda or any kinda import) I don't even look anymore :(

    haha, my camaro has the muscle to back up that beastly rumble, I love pulling up to a little riced out honda and revving it up, he revs back and when the light goes green all he sees is tire smoke and I see him in the rear view, and hear that little engine revving so hard it's probably going to give

    Just putting my opinion in here. your "beastly Camaro" probably isn't all that. I'm not saying that Honda's are the bomb. I'm just honestly stating the fact that your "beast" can lose to a foreign car. Don't let your head swell up too much because you have a two ton car that runs 12's on the quarter mile stock. <--- If driven too it's full potential of course.

    In 1980 My combination: 1964 Chevy II. 327 2.02 (fuelie) double hump casting iron heads. street port. 11.5 to 1 compression TRW pistons. Forged rods ARP bolts.
    Factory forged crank. Offenhauser port-o-sonic intake manifold. 1-3/4 primary fender well exit heddman headers 6qt. Moroso oil pan. two stage oil filter relocated to inner fender. 600cfm vacuum secondary Holley w/ modified annular discharge, different power valve and jets. Corvette dual point w/re-curve kit and Accel coil. Autolite plugs 1 step colder. Mcleod HD clutch and M-21 4 speed turning 4.11 posi and 9 inch slicks. Best ET. 12.1@115 mph Bandimere Speedway Morrison Colorado summer 1980. I drove this car everyday to work for 3 years and just had to change tires at track to race. Total invested: $2100.00. You can't do that in a Honda with your "B"series or Integra motor unless you turbo, run Nitrous and gut the interior. BTW my Nova wet weight was 2700lbs. RICE SUCKS.

    Well my car was sold in December of 09. It actually did run 12s lol. But I am at a much higher elevation than sea level, about 4400 above, if I'm not mistaken. It wasn't stock though. I had to do a few things to get it to run 12s. Anyway, yup, it's gone and I want another one.. =(

    (Old comment I know, sorry) My friends car has over 500 horsepower with the dyno to prove it. The exhaust is a bit annoying, but people still think it's a ricer car. Rotary engines!

    Rotary engine is (Rice) Mazda (Japanese) too bad they stopped production of rotaries in 2011 . Felix Wankel really had a good idea. The Japanese really spent a lot of time on it. 500HP? I am assuming it is Turbo/Nitrous or also a three rotor? I toyed with bridge ported 13B's in the 80's. Rotaries just got too expensive.

    rx-7 for the win!!!!!!! i miss mine

    could probably kill blind people because they dont hear your car its like getting hit by a prius but bigger still hurts tho

    That would be amazing, but I think Rolls Royce has the market cornered. lol Plus, it'd probably rob power. :(

    I have actually scene a car who's exhaust was modified to nearly silent.
    I believe that had a walker exhaust Quiet-FlowSS Muffler something in the 20000 series, I dont have the exact model number, but they had dual mounted these mufflers, with what appeared to be steel pipe about a quarter inch thick welded to the exit pipe, on the end of that was a reverse conical header. Their car was very quite, and i imagine it had no trouble passing smog what so ever.

    will cutting the exhaust right after the muffler make my truck louder? i have a 1994 dakota v6 and its already kinda loud and i was wondering if it would work and will it make it perform better?

    our schools race car does not have a catalist and it runs better without it i dont know why

    2 replies

    that's because everything in the exhaust system creates more back pressure now some back pressure is good to an extent but beyond that u start loosing power most cars produced now a days have such a restrictive exhaust that u could easily see 10 - 20% in cress in power if u ran pipes from the header straight out the back of the car

    i love strait pipes thanks for the reply

    what do yo drive

    i took every thing behind the header pipes off : )

    you could gut out the cat and put it back on so the garage would not notice then put on some glass packs: }