loading

Step 5: Reassembly

Insert the charger back into half of the outer casing and then reinsert the spring clips. These clips keep the winding ears either held open or closed so they don't just flop around on their own.

Next replace the winding ears in their little holes in the outer casing.

Then place little dots of super glue at the indicated spots, slide on the other half of the case and clamp them together.
<p>I recently soldered my charger back together however now it will stop charging within about 5 min but will start to charge again if i un-plug and plug it back into the wall. This is a bit of a hassle as it happens every 5 to ten minutes. Any idea what could be wrong? Thank you </p>
<p>I soldered it to the circuit board, but i also do not have the casing tightly put back together, need to go out and get super glue. Could the casing not being tight have anything to do with this?</p>
<p>Instead of a pliers, a standard bic lighter works wonders for opening the case. Just wedge the bottom in and twist.</p>
<p>This was way WAY easier than using plyers, for me at least. So THANK YOU! for this suggestion. I have done probably 10 of them and using plyers I always slipped at some point and managed to dig into the casing </p>
Right? Way better than gouging the plastic or shanking yourself in the hand.
<p>Hi,</p><p>I recently got a 60W MagSafe power supply with a broken cable. It came with few questions:</p><p>1. Will it work correctly whether I change the cable to MagSafe2 and use it as an extra charger to my new Mac Book Pro 13'' with Retina? </p><p>2. Will there be any difference in charging time?</p><p>3. Are they the same power supplies from the point of view of electronics? I think that I can do so since an adapter from MagSafe to MagSafe2 does not probably contains any electronics, does it?</p><p>Thank you in advance for all answers!</p>
<p>1. Yes you can install a magsafe2 cable in a magsafe charger and it works fine. I've done it to several.</p><p>2. No difference noticed.</p><p>3. Yes they're the same electrically, just the end is different.</p>
<p>Wow! I did it and it was so easy--way faster and fewer steps than changing my iphone's screen. Thank you! I'm not sure if you are the same person or not, but there's a good youtube video that goes well with these instructions. I was having a hard time prying it open with pliers, but seeing someone else did it helped.</p>
<p>I'm not the one who did the video, I think I know which specific one you're talking about though. </p>
<p>Wow! I did it and it was so easy--way faster and fewer steps than changing my iphone's screen. Thank you! I'm not sure if you are the same person or not, but there's a good youtube video that goes well with these instructions. I was having a hard time prying it open with pliers, but seeing someone else did it helped.</p>
<p>Wow! I did it and it was so easy--way faster and fewer steps than changing my iphone's screen. Thank you! I'm not sure if you are the same person or not, but there's a good youtube video that goes well with these instructions. I was having a hard time prying it open with pliers, but seeing someone else did it helped.</p>
<p>Thank you for this!!! I successfully replaced the damaged cable on our power supply. I wish I had solder wick though; I had a very hard time trying to install the new cable without solder wick.</p><p>The cable I got from ebay for somewhere between $5-$10. I wonder if it is a generic cable or if it is a genuine cable. It seems to be a genuine cable that was salvaged from a device.</p><p>There is a problem though... the cable has a chip inside that contains information including the type of power supply (45W, 60W, 85W) and serial number. The listings dont tell what type of power supply it is for (they just say it is for any power supply.) The cable I got was actually from a 45W power supply. So even though the power supply is 85W, the cable &amp; plug is from a 45W power supply so the cumputer thinks it is a 45W power supply and I think it draws less power. Though it still works fine anyway.</p><p>I didn't do the greatest job on this repair but this was my first and it is not too bad! It's better than the previous repair I did where I just spliced the new cable on the old cable.</p><p>BTW I used epoxy to glue the case together because super glue would harden too fast.</p>
<p>Thank you for taking the time to put this up! one lead replaced and charger fully repaired! </p>
<p>Tried this and found that accessing the solder areas where the cable is attached to the circuit board is quite tricky, and in my case it destroyed the unit. Fortunately I had another spare with a broken lead - so the second attempt I simply cut the wires on the old lead inside the case and soldered the new lead to the stub of the old one, taking care to insulate the joins properly with tape (or better still heat shrink sleeves). This made reassembly much simpler. However, take care - after the charger has been unplugged for a few minutes the capacitors remain charged and can give you quite a nasty electrical shock...</p>
<p>https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Restoring+Apple+AC+Adapter+Broken+Cable/24487<br><br>this tutorial really fix my magsafe.</p>
<p>Thanks for the quick open trick. Our web guy needed his fixed 'ASAP' and we had it repaired before he got back from lunch. Got some personal satisfaction out of putting this thing in the vise while the glue dried... ;)</p>
<p>Thanks for the quick open trick. Our web guy needed his fixed 'ASAP' and we had it repaired before he got back from lunch. Got some personal satisfaction out of putting this thing in the vise while the glue dried... ;)</p>
<p>Thank-you so much. I have a several of these lying around, including a cheap Chinese knockoff version that shorted out. So far I've spent hundreds on these things with my 2 macbooks...The problem with these things is the stupid rubber shielding around the wires deteriorates completely after a few years. Electrical tape only works for so long before it dies at the ends... If they weren't trying to be so fancy and just gone with a simpler cheaper plastic like everyone else, it would have lasted better. The irony is that the cord for the Chinese knockoff is lasting longer then the real ones. My only problem was that I didn't know how to open them. Thanks for the pliers trick! That really is clever.</p>
<p>Bro i need your help.My magsafe got fryed with 440 volt.I opened that and i find some round Golden capacitor burnt .it is just right besides the poer cord connector.I took it to electronics shop to buy new.he said i could not recognize capacitor number or reading.I would be very thankful if you tell me reading of capacitor .mine is 85W magsafe L connector for 15 inch MBP.</p>
<p>Thanks for the nice instructions! If separating the plastic case proves to be difficult, you might try some nitroalkanes-based superglue debonder. This dissolves the glue, making the two halves separate easily, and you can probably do the job without even resorting to the pliers. I get mine from caglue.com, and use it for all kinds of superglue tasks, including when I get some on my fingers.</p>
<p>Acetone works well as superglue debonder - can be found in the hardware store. You can also use some nail polish removers - which are basically acetone. Some nail polish removers are not acetone - check the label.</p>
<p>Just tried prying open two of these (one where the power adapter is broken and one where the cable is broken), the one with the cable opened up easily as described. The other one however is really so sturdily glued together that there's no change prying it open severely deforming the housing.</p>
<p>I had this problem and liberally applied superglue remove / acetone. Then it came apart quite easily. Acetone is also used as nail polish remover, so if you can't find it look there. Note there are non-acetone nail polish removers, so get the right one to remove superglue.</p>
<p>Well, this seems harder than necessary, as noted below. I've repaired several Mac power supplies with defective connector cables/connectors by just slicing off the cable, and splicing a new one (with a new MagSafe connector on it) back on. If you slice it off close to the connector, once you splice the new cable back on, you have a cable that is twice the length. You don't have to crack the case open at all. Two wires to solder. That's all. Then some shrink tubing, and you're done! No glue. No cracked plastic. No Dremel/cutting wheel. Geez. </p>
&quot;Be careful and make sure the adapter is completely discharged. Capacitors can hold a charge for a while so it's best to leave the adapter unplugged for a bit prior to working on it.&quot;<br><br>Missed this part.. Those capacitors packs a punch, thats for sure.
<p>I used a pair of snap ring pliers, you can set them to squeeze the handle to open the jaws, much easier than pulling handles apart.</p>
<p>Hey, thanks so much for taking the time to put this up, I'm now typing this from my laptop with repaired charger, you've saved me a load of money! Cheers!</p>
<p>Hmmm, I have an old magsafe with a broken cable and a new MacBook Pro Retina using Magsafe 2. Is it safe to solder a Magsafe 2 Cable to the old power supply? </p><p>Any ideas? </p><p>Thx!</p>
Unfortunately this likely too late to inform you of this, but this may benefit others. One of the 'Best'-known retailers sells a Magsafe to Magsafe2 adapter. A lot easier and much more convenient. And if I recall correctly it's a Mac product.
Yup I did that with one of my magsafe 1 adapters when it needed a cable replacement since I got a newer Air. Apple also makes a little adapter for the end of a magsafe 1 cable too.
<p>Just tried it - and it worked great! Thanks! Cords are available on eBay or Amazon. A few slight variations that I did and wanted to share:</p><ol><li> I left the white and black cables connected to the board then cut and stripped the other ends.<li>I used shrink tubing to protect the two new solder connections.<li>I used clear packing tape to hold the case together when I was done. It works well, and makes it easy to open the case if I need to do this again someday.</ol><p>Again - thanks for the great pics and helpful instructable!</p>
<p>Was there enough room for the extra wire? i find most electronics are pretty tight for space. </p>
Any recommendation on where to get magsafe cords? I've got a few good power supplies with bad cords and would like to replace them.
They have them on AMAZON. $6.00 and change with free shipping
<p>Ebay has them for $6.00 currently.1.12.15</p>
<p>Yes,good instruction but ....BUM destroy the Macbook :(</p>
<p>Its pretty dangerous. Did it work for you afterward? I expect it did. My Magsafe power didn't work before and i didn't repire it.</p><p>thanks for the info. Was wondering about replacement adaptors. Thought it might be a cheap way to get the quality without having to deal with knock offs?Anyone heard of this site?<a href="http://www.eachbattery.com/magsafe-chargers-c-94" rel="nofollow">replacement adaptor</a></p>
<p>&quot;leave the adapter unplugged for a bit prior to working on it&quot; means for about 48 hours, and even then they have a little charge left</p>
<p>I tried this as a last resort before getting a new charger. I soldered on the new wire I got off ebay, but no power comes through it. There's a slight humming/buzzing from the charger though. Do you have any recommendations as to what I can do?</p>
<p>Thank you for your instructable, it is the what I was looking for. But why did you glue it? I assume you might need to open that adapter once again.</p>
<p>I only used small amounts of glue in the locations I showed. It's not enough to prevent you from cracking it open again. I have one I've had to do a few times now due to the cats. I've been able to crack it open after gluing and then re-glue it shut again after the 2nd repair.</p>
<p>I just repaired the power adapter for my wife's MacBook and it's now working perfectly. The case cracking method is inspired! Never would have thought of using a pair of needle nose pliers that way. I hate that cliche about &quot;thinking outside the box&quot; but it truly applies in this case. Thanks.</p>
<p>I don't follow that article. That is easiest and ugliest way of cheating.</p>
<p>Hi - I repaired two of these. The first one worked like a charm (Thanks!), but the second one did not. The configuration of the board on the second one was considerably different, and it looked as if printed circuits were much closer to the soldering - so it's possible that I fried one of them. DIY-ers should be aware that their power supply's configuration may differ, in which case the operation is a little tougher.</p>
<p>Thank you for this, I'm still waiting for my replacement cord to arrive so I've cut the existing wire &amp; soldered it directly to the board. You have saved me about &pound;30 thank you again.</p>

About This Instructable

610,143views

169favorites

License:

More by AaronX2621:How to open and replace the MagSafe cord on an Apple AC adapter Sonicare Elite 7300 - Battery Replacement 
Add instructable to: