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How to power your bike with a whippersnipper motor

Step 2The motor mounts

The motor mounts
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This step involves making the mounting brackets for the motor, this is probably the most crucial step and also the longest, not because of the fabrication (takes bout 30mins) but the thinking and fiddling around. This took me about about an afternoon and night wondering whether I needed more or less or stronger supports. I then just came up with a 2 support plan and stuck with.

it basically would hold the motor by the 2 bolts that also held the clutch on and in its previous life (as a functional whipper snipper, the wire stand). I forgot to take a photo but its pretty simple.

Threes so many different bike shapes and motor mounting designs, so I'm not going to tell you how to do yours, (unless yours is same as mine) so you'll have to figure out the shape and/or mounting style for your bike/motor.

when you have your motor mounts ready to be fixed to your bike. you should just "tack weld" them on first because you will probably have to adjust them as you want a fair amount of pressure from the drive shaft onto the wheel but not too much that it hard to turn.
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7 comments
Oct 11, 2010. 9:23 PMBosun Rick says:
Just a dumb question here; Why did either of you just adapt a chain drive from the motor down to the stock bicycle chain? You would get much better speed, choices of gearing (depending on the bike's sprocket set), and less tire wear! An adjustable idler sprocket would keep the chain tightened (add a weight & it could become self adjusting). Nice Instructable, but these might be hints for a "New & Improved" version.
Jun 16, 2011. 9:22 AMDanteDante says:
BosunRick - this idea is intriguing to me... do I understand it correctly in that the chain path would then be triangle shaped?

I'm not knocking your idea at all, in fact I like it very much, I'm just hashing it out. So... My understanding of bike gearing is basic, but it seems that if the chain traveled under the rear sprocket and then straight up to the engine, there might not be enough chain contact with the rear sprocket. Hmm...

Also, if the chain traveling at a down angle, from the engine to the front derailleur, it might interfere with the front derailleur operation.

But I suppose the motor could be mounted inside the frame instead of over the back tire... I guess that's what motorcycles do... Wow... this changes everything in my plan! Great suggestion!

Apr 28, 2011. 10:40 PMzilcho says:
I thought of that to but then i realized that the pedals would be spinning at like a zillion miles an hour.
Nov 19, 2011. 8:18 PMhandyhippie65 says:
ross bicycles used to make a ten speed that had a freewheel clutch in the front cranks. it was so you could shift while not pedaling. if you could find one of them, they would let you hook an engine up and still use the shifters. i put a 3hp briggs engine on one when i was a kid in the '80's. i could get that 10 speed going faster than i really wanted to go, wanting to live and all.
May 22, 2011. 6:29 AMBosun Rick says:
If you run it on a chain drive, you can take the pedal drive parts out of the project.
Mar 10, 2011. 8:33 PMhightekrednek2396 says:
too much work for that i was going to try that when i did mine but getting to align right was to much work for most diters so friction is easier
Feb 20, 2010. 7:22 PMCimarron_warrior says:
As for making the motor adjustable for the tension on the back tire I would think you could make one of the mount holes in an oblong shape so that one bolt could be slid back and forth on it and the other would be your pivot point.  Imagine an alternator mounting bracket on a car if you will.
Feb 12, 2009. 11:57 AMfrixx says:
can I use a lawn mower engine?? thx
Feb 21, 2009. 4:07 AMdjr6789 says:
no u cant use a lawn mower engine because most of them will have to have the blade on it otherwise it wont start and there to big and heavy for a bike.
Jun 15, 2008. 1:34 AMtwentythreemillion says:
ey, im new to this, but i have made one of these just a few months ago and found that if you make it ujustable to the tire it is easier to tune it, if its too tight the engine bogs and there you get less power and if it slips (too loose) less power again but if its ujustable you can get it correct. plus if you have an older engine and you go riding and it conks out you can unjust is simply and ride home. mine is on a 16 inch push bike with a 30cc weed wacker and averages about 55km/h overtaking trafic on flat. thx
Jun 17, 2008. 2:01 AMtwentythreemillion says:
well about half wat up the swing arm from the axle i have mounted 2 steel half inch wide by quarter inch thick with a hold drilled through both with a quarter inch gap seperating both bits of metal. this it the pifort point. my motor is bolted to the plate (quarter thick that fits between the mounts) witch on the corner bottom right corner a large nut. with a small thread going through that down to the axle. that thread has two nuts on it makin it ajustable. my paint drawing will have to do as i dont have my bike with me and my camera is broken. i have coloured it to help with the confusion. i hope you understand my drawing. thx
Jun 20, 2008. 1:55 AMtwentythreemillion says:
makes it alot easier to changer tires to. =)
it does look like alot of work but really theres not much. you could easly make yours ajustable. in your image you have drawn the left one could have a bolt at the join and remove the other one and put a thread in.

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