Step 1: General maintenance
b. Wax your car once every four months.
c. Keep the inside clean as well, being sure to clean up after any spills which can start rust from the inside.
Step 2: Take extra care around salt
b. Clean the underside of your car and your wheel wells when filthy or at least once a week during the winter when salt is out.
c. If your car is seriously at risk for rust because of regularly exposure to salt, etc. you can clean it and then spray it with a lubricant appropriate for cars (we recommend Jig-a-loo, of course!) or even paint it with a proper coating for the surface (this should be done by a professional).
Step 3: Rust Coating!
b. Key is to keep metal surfaces dry- whether you wipe them off after use, or protect them with paint, lacquer, lubricant or wax.
c. If you are going to spray your car with anything flammable. make sure the engine is cold and give it some time for the vapors to clear up before you fire it up again. Try to avoid spraying on your exhaust or mufflers so they don't get to smelly when hot.
Step 4: The extra steps
b. Drive further behind other vehicles to prevent knicks from pebbles they kick up.
c. Cover your car with a car cover whenever possible.
Step 5: Inspect regularly!
b. There are 3 areas to look for rust: the engine and trunk, the undercarriage of the car and the external painted parts.
Step 6: The worst case scenario- If you do get rust anyhow
b. If you have existing rust on the underside of your car, you will need to remove it. There are sprays that do this.
c. Treat any rust that pops up immediately and aggressively.












































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If you put Jigaloo or Armor-All or Rain-Ex on a car, don't expect to repair the car's paint if it gets damaged. Silicone pretty much repels everything, and silicone can't be removed by solvents since the bonds require very high temperatures to break. So if you get in an accident and need to repaint a panel of your car's body, it will be very difficult to get the paint to stick. Cheap magic car treatments are usually not very well researched and do more harm than good.
Natural wax is the only thing that should go on your car's paint.
You would have to spray it on displacing all water immediately, every time the car got wet, and that would be very costly and exposure to the ingredients bad for health. Any bare metal areas where rust would be a problem should be painted, and silicone sprays like jig a loo should NOT be used because they are difficult to completely clean off so the paint will adhere well.
I drive an '86 pontiac bonneville (62K original miles) and it has rust, it adds character to the car.
What makes steel rust is exposure to the elements. High or low quality tends to effect purity and functional parameters, not rust resistance much. The *best* automotive steel will still rust if it is bare and left outside.
Water, salt, other chemicals and acceleration from heat. The far greatest factors for rust are whether the paint holds up, and whether the panel traps water/debris whether it be design or a clogged drain hole, weatherstripping no longer sealing well, etc.
Also, you forget the Delorean, every body panel was crafted from stainless. Too bad the car was a piece of crap.