How to Prevent Thefts Steal Your Motorcycle for Less Than US$ 2


Introduction: How to Prevent Thefts Steal Your Motorcycle for Less Than US$ 2

About: A motorbike rider who loves all about motorcycles and technology.

This is my first Instructable. It will teach you to how to install a secret interrupter in your motorcycle and prevent the engine to start without your knowledge.

It can be useful to prevent theft to steal your motorcycle. It works as an additional lock system.

Here in Brazil, it's very useful.

The principle is simple: The Engine need the Ignition coil work to make the Spark Plug to Work and make possible the engine to run... All we will do is to create a way to disable the Ignition coil and, by consequence, disable all the Engine.

NOTE: This instructable is available in Brazilian Portuguese in my Blog.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

You will need:
- Some Tools (The tools that come with the motorcycle can do the service well)
- 1~2 meters of double wire
- An Small Interrupter (black or other Dark color if possible)
- A Cutting Tool
- Electric Tape

Most motorcycles come with basic tools, that can be very helpful in an emergency situation. These tools can handle this job, but if you have better tools to work, use them.

The wires will be connected to the interrupter and to the Ignition coil of the Motorcycle.

The Cutting tool is necessary to cut the wires and the Electric tape to isolate them.

Step 2: Locate the Ignition Coil

The ignition coil is a part of the engine that generate electric pulses to the spark plugs. The Spark Plugs are the parts located on the engine cylinder head. They receives the electric pulse and make a little spark, and this spark makes the ignition of the engine (the explosion of the combustion into the cylinder head).

In most cases, the ignition coil is located under the fuel tank. If don't, just follow the spark plug's wire, it starts on the ignition coil. If you have doubts about the location of the ignition coil, please head the Service Manual of your motorcycle.

So, we need to remove the fuel tank and all parts that depends it. Normally you just need to remove the seat and if your motorcycle have a body kit, the body kit too.

Now you have a full view of the motorcycle engine. If it is 1 cylinder, you have only one Spark Plug... 2 Cylinder, 2 Spark Plugs, and so on... If you still have doubts about the Ignition Coil location, just follow the wire from the Spark Plug... it will end on the Ignition Coil.

Step 3: The Ignition Coil

The ignition coil is the part responsible to receive the energy from the battery and/or the engine movement, and convert it into a high voltage electric pulse, and send this pulse to the Spark Plug. This pulse is controlled by an another device, normally the CDI, but in some cases, the ECU. This control is done by a low-voltage wire, that transfer a very small pulse to the Ignition coil.

If you cut this little wire, the ignition coil will not generate the pulses to the spark plug... And it is what we want. We will put the interrupter in the wire, to close and open this circuit.

Step 4: Place the Interrupter

Now the most important step of this instructable: The Secret.

You need to find some place on your motorcycle to hide the interrupter. This place can be any place you imagine... Under the fuel tank, under the air box filter, in back of the headlight, hide in the bodykit... Any place. You must decide it carefully, because it is all the security of this system: the secret. If anyone can find this interrupter, anyone is able to start the engine, and it is very bad.

Once you decided the place, use double-faced glue tape to fix temporarily the interrupter in the place you want, and try to use the wires to reach from this place to the Ignition coil's place.

It's possible? Ok! Fine! Let's go to the next step.
It's not possible? Fine... try to think in another place to put the interrupter.

Step 5: Soldering the Wire

Now you need to soldering the wire on the interrupter and on the ignition coil.

The wire (double wire), must be soldered to the interrupter.

Now, cut the little wire of the ignition coil (make sure you have space to do a soldering in each piece of wire of the ignition coil), and solder one wire to the one wire from the ignition coil, and do the same to the other wire. You'll get some like this:


Step 6: Testing

Now the electrical installation is completed.
Turn the interrupter to the ON position and try to start the motorcycle (do now worry about the fuel tank... the motorcycle have fuel enough to run for a minute in the carburetor).

If the motorcycle starts, the installation is correct. Now turn the interrupter OFF. The motorcycle engine must stop and you will can't start if again until turn ON the interrupter again. This is the behavior we want.
If the motorcycle doesn't starts, try to change the position of the interrupter (maybe ON is OFF and OFF is ON). If it still doesn't starts, double-check the installation and all soldering points... And finally if you can't determine the problem... simply remove everything and solder the wire you just cutted. And look for someone more technically capable. :o)



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    I haven't tried this yet but IT WILL BE one of my winter PROJECTS. THANKS!

    what if my bike kick start not self starter ?

    1 reply

    Yes, it will work.
    No matter which method you use to start the bike. Kicking, pushing or going downhill, the engine needs to generate the sparks to ignite the fuel in the cylinders.

    Worked great for dad's car. As if being stickshift wasn't bad enough (clutch down to start it) you had to flip the switch hidden in the ash tray. Otherwise, it won't start.

    14 replies

    A "stickshift" isn't normally started with the clutch down..

    Uhm. Do you drive? Because I think youll find you cannot start a stickshift/manual car unless the clutch is in. Not only is it not abnormal, its the only way possible


    Never heard of this feature on a manual. Ever. You either put it into neutral, or get a big jerk when you turn the key on every manual I've been in.

    What make/model has this feature?

    Hehe. I remember as a kid wanting to listen to the radio, mom had just loaded us into the car, so I reached over and turned the key. Not quite getting the just one-click... car lurched forward, nearly hitting the parked car infront of us. Whoops. I think that was a mid 80's nissan sentra. Good memories.

    All vehicles manufactured for use in the United States after 1990 were required to have a switch to lock out ignition of the vehicle, unless the clutch was fully depressed. I had a 1984 Honda Prelude with a 5-speed manual transmission. It had lock out switch on the clutch. But then again, Honda is known to implement safety features that most manufacturers don't do until forced to by the Federal DOT.

    Now, that's not to say that the switch hasn't been bypassed. People do that, and there are videos on YouTube that show how to do it.


    I did not know about this. Ok, on an auto, yes, you cannot do anything to the car unless you are in "N", but here in Europe, where most cars are manual, you have no sort of cut out like this...


    Modern manual cars have a sensor that forces you to completely depress the clutch pedal or the starter won't get power to crank the engine.

    The 2011 Chevrolet Spark I drove in France this past summer and my '91 Honda Civic wagon had this feature... my '91 Lada wagon doesn't.

    Cheers !!

    Some 'stick shift' cars have a 'brake applied or clutch down' "safety feature" which prevents the engine starting while a gear is engaged: I own one at the moment.
    I have also driven lots of 'stick shift' cars without this feature so whether you need 'clutch down' to start just depends on which car you have.

    A lot of automatics are now making you put the brake on to move the shift lever to a forward or reverse gear.
    LONG overdue.

    You can start the car with the clutch down, but normally you put it in neutral is what I meant

    anyone who has driven and understands how a manual transmission car works would know that it can be started both clutch in or just in neutral.

    I must have the clutch depressed to start my GMC stickshift PU.

    It's not necessary unless the vehicle has some kind of safety interlock. However, disengaging the clutch before starting does slightly decrease the wear on your starter motor since it doesn't have to turn any of the transmission beyond the clutch. Whether or not this is significant depends on the vehicle.

    Like everything, it depends. Modern cars have all sorts of electronic jiggery pokery to force the driver to do things in a certain way.

    Mine's a late 60's holden (GM to americans) and it starts better in neutral with the clutch out (connected), because the weight of the flywheel helps keep the gubbons turning over.
    You can still start it perfectly well with the clutch in (separated) but its easier on the motor the other way.

    "Stick" is a silly word... here we refer to them as manual or automatic.
    An automatic transmission generally still has a gearstick... I've never seen a pushbutton automatic outside of a Bus, but google says Chrysler made them for cars.

    around here that wont stop someone from stealing your bike. Here they drive up in a van, four guys pick your bike up and throw it in, close the door and they are gone.

    1 reply

    Exactly! I had a 83 Honda that had a braided steel security cable you could loop around an object and it plugged into a box at the very bottom of the frame. There was a fiberoptic cable that ran through the center of this. If cut it would start honking the horn which I upgraded to a screaming Mac truck db'd air horn. Their hearing would have been totally destroyed before they could rip off the side cover and cut the battery cable.