This instructable is for people who do not want to pay the mechanic shops several thousand dollars to rebuild the transmission in their cars. If you have some basic ( and specialty tools that can be easily bought), then you can rebuild your transmission yourself and save a few thousand dollars.
I did not do this rebuild, I found the information to do this and wanted to let everyone know how to do this. To give credit where credit is due please go to http://pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1483
And thank member agrazela for his mechanical know how.
WARNING!! This Instructable is for rebuilding the 1997-2003 4t650e-HD transmission!!! If you do not have a 4t650e-HD ( I have the plain 4t650e, and it’s from 2004) and or it is a 2004 and up THIS WILL NOT WORK FOR YOU!!!! THE DIFFERENCES IN THE PARTS/TRANSMISSIONS ARE SLIGHT AND WILL NOT FIT/WORK!! The differences in the design will also leave you stuck somewhere in the middle of your rebuild and in need of a new transmission.
I am in no way responsible for anyone following this instructable, you do so at your own risk and/or expense.

Step 1: 4T65E Vehicle Application List:

4T65E Vehicle Application List:

The list below shows which vehicles came originally equipped with the 4T65E, 4T65E-HD, and 4T65EV/GT model transmissions.

Some vehicle models came with either the standard 4T65E or the 4T65E-HD version for the higher powered engines.

Some of the minivans listed below had an AWD (All Wheel Drive) option.

The Volvo models listed had an optional Gear-Tronic version which provided manual shifting typically found on the turbocharged models.

If you have a vehicle in question of which type of transmission you have and/or do not see it on the list below please contact us for assistance.

Manufacturer  Model  Year Range  Transmission
Buick  Century  2000-2004   4T65E
Buick  LaCrosse,Allure  2005-2008   4T65E. 4T65E-HD
Buick  Lesabre   1998-2005   4T65E
Buick  Lucerne w/3.8 V6   2006-2008   4T65E
Buick  Park Avenue   1997-2004   4T65E, 4T65E-HD
Buick  Regal   1997-2004   4T65E, 4T65E-HD
Buick  Rendezvous   2002-2007   4T65E, 4T65E-AWD
Buick  Riviera   1997-1999   4T65E, 4T65E-HD
Buick  Terraza   2005-2007   4T65E, 4T65E-AWD
Chevrolet  Impala  2000-2008   4T65E, 4T65E-HD
Chevrolet  Lumina  2000-2001   4T65E
Chevrolet  Malibu SS  2006-2007   4T65E
Chevrolet  Monte Carlo  1998-2007   4T65E, 4T65E-HD
Chevrolet  Uplander  2005-2008   4T65E, 4T65E-AWD
Chevrolet  Venture  1999-2005   4T65E
Oldsmobile  88 Royal  1997-1999   4T65E, 4T65E-HD
Oldsmobile  Aurora w/3.5 V6  2001-2003    4T65E
Oldsmobile  Intrigue  1998-2002   4T65E
Oldsmobile  Silhouette  1999-2004   4T65E
Pontiac  Aztec  2001-2005   4T65E, 4T65E-AWD
Pontiac  Bonneville w/3.8 V6  1997-2005  4T65E, 4T65E-HD
Pontiac  G6 w/3.9 V6  2006-2008   4T65E
Pontiac  Grand Prix  1997-2008   4T65E, 4T65E-HD
Pontiac  Montana  1999-2007   4T65E, 4T65E-AWD
Saturn  Relay  2005-2007   4T65E, 4T65E-AWD
Volvo  S80  1999-2005  4T65EV, 4T65EV/GT
Volvo  XC90  2003-2005   4T65EV, 4T65EV/GT

Step 2:


Step 3: Parts Needed for Rebuild

Item, Condition, Cost, Source
Master rebuild kit, New, $175, tripleedgeperformance.com
Transmission, Used , $100, Craigslist
EPC solenoid, New, $50, tripleedgeperformance.com
35/35 sprockets, Used, $50, ClubGP
Forward band, New, $50, tripleedgeperformance.com
TransGo shift kit, New, $50, EBAY
Sonnax boost valve, New, $45, transmissionpartsusa.com
4th Clutch hub, New, $45, GMpartsdirect.com
Pump shaft, New, $40, GMpartsdirect.com
TFP switch, New, $40, GMpartsdirect.com
Teflon seals installed, New, $40, tripleedgeperformance.com
2 Shift solenoids, New, $30, GMpartsdirect.com
2nd clutch drum, Used, $30, EBAY
Sonnax TCC valve, New, $25, transmissionpartsusa.com
TCC solenoid, New, $20, transmissionpartsusa.com
Drive links, NOS, $17, EBAY
Harness, Used, $15, EBAY
Pump, Used, $15, ClubGP
Thrust washer kit, New, $15, transmissionpartsusa.com
WIX oil filter, New, $15, local auto parts store
Intense false knock kit, New, $15, Intense-racing.com
2-1 Manual band, New, $10, transmissionpartsusa.com
Input piston, NOS, $10, EBAY
2 M6 pan bolts, New, $8, Intense-racing.com
Sprag retainer ring, New, $6, local GM dealer
Sonnax TC relief valve, New, $5, tripleedgeperformance.com
TCC apply valve end plug, New, $5, GMpartsdirect.com
Case cover bolt, New, $3, local hardware store
Lube dam , New, $2, transmissionpartsusa.com
Sonnax lube tune retainer, New, $2, transmichigan.com

Total thus far: $933

Step 4: Tools Needed

Tools, etc. bought during rebuild
Clutch compressor, $35, EBAY /METRIC SOCKET SET
Digital caliper, $15, Harbor freight
Nylon resize rings (fail), $8, EBAY
Seal puller, $5, Harbor freight
Assembly goo, $5, transmissionpartsusa.com                                                                                                                                                                                              NOTE FROM ME!!!! This is a fix to the problem the Author had when he needed to have this tool to have more length.                               I took the clutch tool pictured below and added the extra threaded rod on the bottom to get around the issue that Andrew found with it not being long enough to take out the 3rd/input clutches.

Step 5: Let's Get Started

Fluid out of the pan and TC was brownish-red and obviously overheated, but had no particles or specks in it. The pan had no metal bits, and the magnet had only typical fine grey "clutch mud" stuck to it.

Cracked open the filter with a hammer and chisel:Only some fine clutch mud, no metal particles. The third pic shows some black "flakes" stuck between the felts...I know what that is already, but I'd be getting ahead of myself :wink:

Step 6:

OK, so I'll go through the book step-by-step, with my inspection notes and pics on the dismantle.

(I did not get a picture of everything, so if anyone wants me to go back and snap a photo of something, let me know)

Torque converter: JTFM 258mm TC. Looks OK on the outside and in the teeth, but the bearing has some nicks in it. Probably best used as a core for a reman.

Reverse Servo: OK.

Forward Servo: OK.

Pan: OK; cleaned up great. May investigate getting a drain plug welded into it. Two M6 bolts missing, but threaded holes in case all OK, and can get $2 replacement bolts from Intense. Pan Gasket in excellent shape after cleaning, and can be reused.

Oil filter: No alarms; see previous post(s).

Accumulator assembly and 2-1 Band Servo: OK. After I get new piston seals out of an Overhaul kit, I'll probably swap this unit in it's entirety into the current trans and swap in the current trans' unit with Thrasher shift kit already installed.

Control Valve Body Cover (Side Cover): OK. Very grimy, but cleaned up fine. Gasket in great shape after cleaning, and can be reused. Had a W-body specific mount bolted to it, will probably give away or sell mount.

Wiring Harness: Screwed that puppy up; all the little plastic retaining clips to the solenoids were very brittle, and as careful as I tried to be I broke every last one of them:This harness will find use as part of a solenoid test apparatus. I bought a replacement used 14-pin harness for $15 shipped from an EBAY seller I have bought good parts from before; it checks out OK

Step 7:

Oil Pump: Removed but not yet disassembled for inspection:I bought a spare pump for $15 shipped off ClubGP, and will use whichever looks better inside.

Step 8:

Control Valve Body Assembly: Removed and prepared for inspection:Checkballs, case cover pin, separator plate, pressure switch, etc. bagged and tagged.

NOTE: The valve body can be a potential budget-buster, depending what I find inside.

Step 9:

Oil Pump Drive Shaft: Teeth at pump end OK, but teeth at TC end are badly worn:Shaft on right from this trans; shaft on left cost me $10 as part of a batch of parts I bought used off ClubGP. Both are actually not so good; will probably buy a $40 shipped new stock oil pump shaft from GMPD (p/n 24209284).

Step 10:

Vehicle Speed Sensor: OK.

Output Shaft / Differential / Extension Housing: OK; discussed in earlier post.

Manual Valve Link, Oil Dam, Input Speed Sensor: OK.

Case Cover Removal: Rounded off one of the bolts (note this pic not my trans; lifted from internet and Paint-ed):

Step 11:

But got it out with some reverse drill bits:Found replacement M8-1.25 50mm grade 10.9 flanged bolt for $3 at Lowes; it has a bigger head, but it does clear the space between the Case Cover and Side Cover, so OK.

Step 12:

Fourth clutches and thrust washers came out with the case cover:

Step 13:

Two locating pins:                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Manual valve OK. Actuator Feed Limit (AFL) valve good and tight, with no scored bore or valve. (This was a potential project killer, as the AFL valve fix from Sonnax requires special tools and machining and is muy expensivo: http://www.sonnax.com/part_summary.php?id=3793&pl=3.)

Drove Left axle oil seal out from behind with hammer and screwdriver. Axle bearing looks good. Pump shaft sleeve looks good.

Step 14:

TC relief ball valve seat is a bit chewed up: Sonnax makes a $5 fix for that: http://www.sonnax.com/part_summary.php?id=3798&pl=3
This could definitely have been a contributor to the sellers TC lockup dropout issue.

Step 15: Oil Pump Inspection:

Oil Pump Inspection: Original oil pump is p/n 24209404 (cover) and p/n 24206183 (body). This is '97 to '98 style pump, based on my research.
Taken apart.

Step 16:

The vane rotor with my cryptic Sharpie marks to make sure reassembly is right:

Step 17:

Pump slide has some concentric grooves in it:

Step 18:

Vanes have corresponding ridges:I don't like the looks of this.

Step 19:

Spare pump I bought is p/n 24213197 (cover) and 24210098 (body). My research indicates this is the mid-98 to '02/'03 style pump update, before GM went to some kind of 3-piece pump.I note that the pump slide in the spare pump does not have any grooves, nor do the vanes have ridges. I also note the newer pump cover has a "bypass" groove cast into it, which I like.

I can interchange pump covers; however, pump slides/vanes/rotors are not interchangeable because they are factory matched to the depth of each pump body coming off the assembly line.

These pumps seem to be worn similarly otherwise. I'll likely go ahead and use the spare pump.

Step 20: Valve Body Inspection:

Valve Body Inspection:There are 11 separate bores for solenoids and/or valves.

Step 21: Line Boost Valve and Pressure Regulator Valve:

Line Boost Valve and Pressure Regulator Valve:

Step 22:

The line boost valve and reverse boost valve ride inside the boost valve bushing:The inner bore of the aluminum bushing is clearly worn, and these valves are rattling around inside too freely. This is a common problem, and leads to slow / sloppy shifting. Sonnax makes a drop-in fix (about $45): http://www.sonnax.com/part_summary.php?id=3794&pl=3

Step 23:

2. 1-2, 3-4 Shift Solenoid and 1-2 Shift Valve: Solenoid clicks when 12v applied; will probably replace anyway (about $20) to be safe. Shift valve and bore OK.

3. Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) Solenoid and Torque Signal Regulator Valve: This solenoid clicks, too; however, it is always recommended to replace this one (about $50) on a rebuild. This solenoid is year specific (97-02, or 03+). Regulator valve looks good and the bore is fine.

4. Line Pressure Relief Valve: All OK.

5. Torque Converter Control / Pulse Width Modulator (TCC/PWM) Solenoid and Torque Converter Control (TCC) Valve:Solenoid clicks, but again, always replace this one on a rebuild (about $40).

Step 24:

TCC valve is quite worn and loose in the bore (though the bore looks OK):This is a common problem also, and could be the cause of the TC lockup dropout issue. Sonnax TCC valve drop-in fix (about $25): http://www.sonnax.com/part_summary.php?id=3796&pl=3

Step 25:

TCC Regulator Apply Valve:The valve and bore are OK; good thing, because the Sonnax fix for this require special tools and machining and would be a budget buster: http://www.sonnax.com/part_summary.php?id=3795&pl=3

Step 26:

The end plug looks worn on one side, as if it was being "canted" somehow:The Sonnax TCC valve fix referenced above includes a new teflon sealing ring for this end plug. Also, I could order a whole new end plug (p/n 24208635) from GMPD for about $5.

Step 27:

7. 2-3 Shift Solenoid: Solenoid clicks when 12v applied; will probably replace anyway (about $20) to be safe.

8. 4-3 Manual Downshift Valve and 3-4 Shift Valve: All OK.

9. 3-2 Manual Downshift Valve and 2-3 Shift Valve: All OK.

10. 1-2 Accumulator Valve:

Step 28:

The valve is slightly scored, but seems tight in the bore:If I can find a p/n for this valve, I'll consider replacement, but I think it's OK as-is.

Step 29:

11. 2-3 Accumulator Valve and 3-4 Accumulator Valve:

Step 30:

Like the 1-2 accumulator, these both show some light scoring:But both are tight in their bores. The bushing the 2-3 rides in looks fine, and is tight in its VB bore. Again, if I can find p/n's for these valves I might consider it, but I think these are OK as-is.

Step 31:

Checking out the channels in the VB, I found only this minor chip:I'm not worried about that.

Step 32:

I found three "mystery clips" like this one:That are not referenced in the manual. They are smaller than any of the valve or solenoid end / retaining clips.

Step 33:

One was found in this location on the torque signal regulator valve (blue arrow):

Step 34:

One in this location (blue arrow) on the TCC control valve:

Step 35:

And the third I think was in this location (black arrow) on the TCC regulator apply valve:I have discovered via TSB and from forum discussion that these "extra clips" were used to temporarily hold in valves during manual assembly (to keep the springs compressed while the end caps / retainers were installed further down the assembly line). Their locations do not affect the operation of the given valves.

Perhaps they were supposed to be hand-removed at the factory after the VB was assembled, but were not. Or were not removed because they don't affect operation.

In any case, they do not need to be reinstalled.


All in all, I didn't see anything in the valve body that I'd consider a project killer.

On to other things.

Step 36: Case Cover Inspection:

I found only one small nick in the fluid channels:Nothing to worry about.

Step 37:

The area near where the axle goes in had a gouge in it, looks to me from maybe a prybar or something used to remove the axle. I filled it with epoxy:

Step 38:

At the same spot, where the side cover goes on, there is a chip in the cover:It's outside where the sealing ring is, so I'm not worried. I filed off the sharp edges of the chipped area.

3-4 accumulator looks OK.

So, overall the case cover checks out OK (once I take care of the TC relief valve fix).

Step 39: More Inspections:

Transmission Range Switch: This is the one that sits on top of the trans case, right where the shifter cable attaches. Took it through all the gear positions and it checked out according to the signal matrix in the FSM; OK.

Transmission Manifold Fluid Pressure Switch:This funky thing has 6 separate pressure switches. It bolts to the top of the valve body and monitors whether the fluid is actually in the channels the PCM thinks it's in :lol: The FSM has a signal matrix based on what combo of these pressure switches are pressed.

Three of these switches are "normally open." These functioned flawlessly.

Step 40:

The other three are "normally closed." I found these to respond (i.e., open/close) to press/release very slowly. So I pried off their sealing rings and membranes:

Step 41:

I found there was trans fluid behind the membranes. I'm guessing some gunk (clutch mud?) got in between the contacts. Some contact cleaner:And replace the membranes and these switches are now as fast as the normally open switches. I read somewhere that the Overhaul kit comes with new sealing rings for these pressure switches...I hope so.

So, after cleaning, the manifold switch checks out versus the FSM matrix; OK.

POST Thu May 01, 2008

Getting back to the mechanics of the transmission...

Step 42: Drive Link Stretch Check:

The book says to replace the chains if the clearance between the chains and any the case (along the bottom) is less than 1/8" when the chains are pushed down taut with a fingertip. I measured a hair over 1/4" (and close visual inspection of chains saw no problems) , so I plan to reuse them.

Step 43: Fourth Clutch Components Removal:

Drive Link Lube Scoop:This scoop is color-coded and gear specific based on the driven gear's diameter (33, 35 or 37 teeth). I'll be going from a 33 to a larger-diameter 35 tooth driven gear, so I'll just grind about 1/8" off the lip of this scoop to fit.

Step 44:

4th Clutches:While the frictions actually look pretty good, these steels show significant "leopard spotting" due to overheating. This is apparently pretty common on factory 4th clutches. I'm told Borg Warner newer-style "OEM quality" 4th clutches put many more of the radial fluid channels in the 4th clutches and help prevent this overheating. All these clutches and steels will come with the Master Kit.

Step 45:

Fourth Clutch Shaft:The shaft on the right is the 102k mile shaft out of this trans; on the left a hardened 2003+ replacement shaft I got for $30.
Once those teeth on the non-hardened pre-2003 shaft wear down completely, no more 4th gear. This is a must-replace on any pre-2003 4T65E.

Step 46: Drive Sprocket, Driven Sprocket and Drive Link Removal:

The turbine shaft looks good, and with my anticipated power level I do not see the need for a high-dollar aftermarket upgrade. Sprockets look good, too; but I'm going to replace the 37 drive / 33 driven with 35/35 stockers (like from a GPGT or n/a H-Body) to wind up with 3.29's. I expect to spend $75 to $100 for these sprockets; and I don't see the need to spend big $$$ on a single-chain "race" setup here.

Speed Sensor Reluctor wheel:The pins are good and tight. Important thing to check, because if this comes loose off the drive sprocket, it can ruin chains, sprockets, and/or the case cover.

Step 47:

Here's the driven sprocket support assembly:

Step 48:

Driven Sprocket Support / Fourth Clutch Piston Assembly, Second Clutch Assembly, Input and Third Clutch Assembly, and Input / Third Sprag were pretty tightly attached to each other and all came out together. I'll get more pics of these parts as I inspect them, but here's what it looks like after these are out:

Step 49:

Reverse Band looks good and can be reused:Reverse Reaction Drum also OK.

Step 50:

After Input and Reaction Carrier, Reaction Sun Gear, Manual 2-1 Band, 1-2 Support Drum and Forward Band removal:

Step 51:

I inspected the Parking Link:

Step 52:

And differential Ring Gear:Inside the case. They are fine, and I'm not going to bother removing them.

Step 53:

The case 95% cleaned:

Step 54:

Pressure Test Plug and Vent check out OK, as do Forward and Reverse Servos and the Drive Sprocket Bearing:

Step 55:

TC Stator Mount looks good:

Step 56:

Another look at the Differential components now that they are all cleaned up:

Step 57:

This metal clad axle seal needs replacing, and that comes in the Overhaul kit:

Step 58:

Here's the roll pin that holds in the spider gear pinion:

Step 59:

If that roll pin falls out, then this pinion:Is free to sling out of the diff carrier and bust your extension housing.

Alternatively, sometimes the spider gears sieze to or wear down the pinion and the gears or pinion itself breaks.

None of these things is good, all are caused or accelerated by rough treatment, and this is why we are all warned not to do one-wheel burnouts :wink:

There are aftermarket limited slip differentials (LSD); but from what I've read the clutch-based ones do not have a good track record for longevity, and the true posi-lock GM Torsen diffy costs more than my car is worth.

There are also aftermarket beefed-up output shafts, half axles, etc., but I'm not expecting to need any of that.

Step 60: Input Sun Gear, Input and Reaction Carrier:

Input Sun Gear checks out OK. Input planetaries are well within play spec as per FSM.

Step 61:

One of the planetaries on the Reaction Carrier has slightly more play than the others, but is still within FSM spec. I'm calling it OK:

Step 62:

If you've ever considered an -HD diffy upgrade, you may have been warned to be careful about a lube dam that the output shaft goes through. It sits between the Input and Reaction Carrier:

Step 63:

This old plastic part was so brittle it literally started to crumble in my hand:Luckily, I can get a replacement for about $2

Step 64:

Reaction Sun Gear and 1-2 Support Drum:

Step 65:

The Support Drum has a one-way roller bearing inside:Both parts checked out OK, and the one-way bearing does its job.

Step 66:

Manual 2-1 Band:The 2-1 manual band is marginal for reuse. For $10 I'll just get a new one

Step 67:

Forward Band:he forward band is burnt and must be replaced (About $50)

Step 68:

Reverse Drum:Part is OK.

Step 69:

I picked up this tool to take apart the clutch assemblies:

Step 70: 2nd and Input / 3rd Clutch Assemblies:

Step 71:

2nd Clutches:These steels have some severe burned spots, and the frictions are pretty worn down. More evidence that the original owner of this tranny liked to punch it. The Master kit will have Borg Warner clutches and new steels.

Step 72:

2nd Clutch Spring and Piston:The piston has a rubber seal bonded to the bottom and must be replaced; that will come with the Master kit

Step 73:

Unfortunately, the 2nd clutch springs are very strong, and I bent the heck out of the spring assembly with the tool:

Step 74:

And I wasn't careful with removing the retaining ring, and it curled back in somehow and scratched the crap out of the brass bushing:I have no means of replacing the bushing, and the spring assembly is fubared. Luckily, the same EBAY guy I bought the harness from had a replacement 2nd clutch assembly for me for $30 shipped:

Step 75:

On the replacement assembly I discovered I can pop the retaining ring off the spring without first compressing the it with the tool, which not only saved the spring but prevented the ring curling and scratching anything. I also discovered I can invert the the old 2nd clutch piston and use it to distribute the force of the tool to depress the new spring assembly without bending it, and have room to push the retaining ring back into place. Nice save :wink:

Step 76: Input / 3rd Clutch Assembly:

Step 77:

3rd Clutches:

The 3rd clutches are different, in that they are steels on one side and frictions on the other (rather than separate steels / frictions).

These 3rd clutches are badly coned:

Step 78:

And even have some "chips" missing from the frictions:Although some coning from heat is to be expected in the 3rd's, this kinda proves the original owner was a leadfoot. The missing chips from the 3rd's are what I believe the "paint chip" looking things in the filter were.

The Master kit will have new Borg Warner 3rd clutches.

Step 79:

Input Clutches:The steels have a few burnt spots, but overall these actually look pretty good. The Master kit will have new BW clutches and new steels.

Step 80:

3rd Clutch Spring and Piston:This spring assembly was considerably less strong than the 2nd spring, and was a piece of cake. Like the 2nd piston, this one has a bonded seal and must be replaced (comes with the Master kit).

Step 81:

Input Clutch Housing, Spring and Piston:This spring was weak and easy, too.

Step 82:

The input piston is rather worn inside, where the input piston inner lip seal rides:And this (along with a crappily-designed OEM inner lip seal) is what leads to the infamous "bang start" in these transmissions:

The TransTec brand Overhaul kits include a re-designed "long-lip" inner seal (along with some other fixes) designed to fix this:

Step 83:

I also got a new input piston off EBAY for $10, and it is nice and smooth inside:

Step 84:

Input / 3rd Sprag:

Step 85:

This part checks out functionally in that the gears counter-rotate one direction and lock in the other. According to the book, the retaining ring on the top is not reuseable:And I don't know if the Master kit comes with this retainer. I ordered one from a local dealership for $6 just in case; when that comes in I'll be able to pop this open to inspect its innards.

Step 86: Driven Sprocket Support, 4th Clutch Spring and Piston:

This spring was really tame. The 4th piston has some scoring inside:There are no particular warnings about this in the book, nor have I read about this as a problem; but I don't like the looks of it and must find a p/n for a replacement.

Step 87:

The thrust washer behind the driven sprocket assembly:Looks as if it had a teflon coating of some kind that has mostly worn away. I will be getting a thrust washer kit (about $15) that should replace this and many other thrust washers.

Step 88:

Another look at the Drive and Driven Sprockets:The 37 / 33 originals at top, the 35 / 35 set I picked up at bottom.

Step 89:

Even though I said I was planning to reuse the Drive Link:I'm having second thoughts about putting extra power to a 102k mile chain, and will likely order new ones for about $70.

Step 90:

Turbine Shaft looks fine and will be reused:

Step 91: A Look at the 1-2, 2-3 and Manual 2-1 Accumulator Parts:

Everything in order there. For those considering a shift kit, that is basically some shims and some stronger replacement springs for the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator pistons.

Step 92:

All the brass bushings (except the one I messed up and subsequently replaced) look great. All the roller bearings, roller thrust bearings, and selective washers are fine.

I've now inspected everything I can (at least until the sprag retaining ring arrives). I've gone ahead and given this rebuild the green light, and ordered the Master kit (about $175); when that comes I can start reassembling stuff.

For now, everything bagged, tagged, and boxed:

Step 93:

Got the TC oil seal out with the Harbor Freight tool:

Step 94:

Master Kit came in:Time to start putting some of this back together.


Second Clutch Assemble:

Parts laid out:

Step 96:

New clutch frictions soak in ATF for 30 minutes:

Step 97:

Moisten new 2nd piston lip with ATF:

Step 98:

Piston was a bear to push into place...much tighter than the old one. Here the spring and clip are in place and ready for the tool:

Step 99:

Invert the old piston and use as a "washer" to avoid ruining this spring:

Step 100:

Still leaves enough gap to push the snap ring into the groove:

Step 101:


Step 102:

Soaked clutches installed:

Step 103:

New 2nd clutch pack all done:

Step 104: Driven Sprocket Support Components Assemble:

Step 105:

After looking at it more closely, the scoring inside the 4th piston (see earlier post) was not in the location of the inner lip seal, but rather only where it travels at the top edge of the driven support. So I decided to reuse the 4th clutch piston. New outer lip seal, moistened with ATF:

Step 106:

Installing an ATF-soaked new inner seal using a specially homemade tool (aka, very small flatblade that I ground all sharp edges off of): NOTE FROM AUTHOR USE electrical tape to further wrap around screwdriver or rubber coat it ... or just buy a lip seal removal tool .....It is crucial to get these lip seals seated properly, so that they sit in the groove with the lip sticking out all the way around. It's also crucial not to nick or cut the seals; in some cases, I temporarily wrapped shafts in electrical tape while sliding on the seals to avoid running seals over grooves or sharp edges...this was in lieu of buying up all kinds of specialty Kent Moore J-tool seal protectors and slides. Also, you have to make sure that inner lips seat inside pistons properly and do not "roll up" as you reinstall the pistons...another use for the rounded-off flatblade.

Step 107:

4th piston, spring and snap ring done:

Step 108:

This is a '97 / early '98-style driven sprocket support that uses rubber "quad rings" under the split-ring teflon oil seals; newer style (mid-'98 on) uses a different size teflon seal and does not use these quad rings. The Transtec kit comes with both types of teflon seal, and includes new Viton quad rings:

Step 109: Input Clutch and Third Clutch Assemble:

Step 110:

There are two inner lip seals and an o-ring in this one, and they are tricky to get to:

Step 111:

I hope this shows what I meant earlier by the new Transtec lip seals being "long-lipped" compared to the OEM's:

Step 112:

More tricky business installing these seals; definitely the most hair-raising part of this assembly:

Step 113:

The threaded rod on my cheapo clutch spring compressor tool is not long enough to go all the way through the input hub assembly, so I had to improvise: NOTE FROM AUTHOR: REMEMBER WHEN I TOLD YOU THAT THE THREADED ROD AND COPLIING NUT WOULD FIX THIS PROBLEM....... you can do as the Person in the pic or use the threaded rod to not have to use a massive c-clamp

Step 114:

Inner seals, pistons, springs, and snap rings reinstalled:

Step 115:

Pre-soaked 3rd clutches all in place:

Step 116:

Pre-soaked input clutches all in place:All the reassembly in this post took me four hours, which is about 36 hours less than I thought it would take me. I will credit that to my awesome cardboard box and ziploc bag organizational system. :lol:

Now I have to take these assemblies to the lab and function-test the reinstalled piston and lip seals with compressed air to make sure all are properly installed. If they pass, then the most screw-uppable part of reassembly (IMO) is done, and I can order up all the Sonnax fixes and solenoids for the valve body.

Step 117:

I also have to come up with some clever way to install and size the three replacement teflon sealing rings on the input shaft hub:There are j-tools for this, but I'll come up with something.

Step 118:

Managed to air-test the clutches, and they all passed :D

I rigged this air nozzle with a cut-up plastic lab dropper and some electrical tape, in order to tap the test holes in the clutch assemblies:

Step 119:

http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee98/agrazela/?action=view¤t=3rdClutchAirTest.flv                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   that should be a video of the 3rd clutch engaging:

Step 120: Differential End Play Measurement

This is a variation on the manual method, using stuff I found in the garage and my new Harbor Freight digital caliper (claimed accurate to +/- 0.001").

First assemble the differential and install the extension housing:

Step 121:

Then I rested this thick, flat metal plate thing with a hole in the middle over the center of the seal:

Step 122:

Then extend the depth finder on the caliper and zero out the distance between the top of the plate and the pinion:

Step 123:

Hold the body of the caliper firmly while prying up the diff through all its travel with a big screwdriver through the VSS hole:

Step 124:

Full travel measured 0.016":Spec for play is 0.005" to 0.025", so no need to swap in a different thickness selective washer. Test OK

Step 125: Teflon Sealing Rings

(Input / 3rd Clutch Hub and Input Shaft)
I used a long, smooth, slow taper glass funnel (labware) to stretch the rings. That seemed to work OK for getting them onto the shaft:

Step 126:

I got these nylon clamps to resize the rings:That did not work out so well...

When assembled to the driven sprocket support / 2nd clutch drum assemblies, they are not forming a positive seal (to air) for input and third clutch apply, even when the fluid channels in the support are filled with ATF.

Step 127:

I believe these clamps are making a depression or "divot" (red arrow) and a "hump" (green arrow) in the rings:I tried letting them sit a few days; then sit again overnight bathed in ATF; but they are just not reforming properly to make a seal.

I thought about getting new sealing rings (or a kit) and trying again, maybe with strips of neoprene between the clamp and the ring; but these rings are not exactly cheap enough for such experimentation, and the proper j-tools are extremely uncheap. So I'm likely going to send the hub and the shaft in to Dave at tripleedgeperformance.com to install and size all 6 new rings for me. NOTE FROM AUTHOR: YOU CAN DO WHAT THE PERSON DID HERE, OR SPEND THE $50-80 ON THE RESIZING TOOL, IF YOU PLAN ON REBUILDING YOUR TRANSMISSION AGAIN                                                                                                                                       So the Trannyman's going to install all six new seals on the hub and shaft and size them for $20. Add <$10 shipping for each way (USPS Priority flat rate box), and this little episode with the Teflon seals will cost me <$40. Another nice save 8)

(Dealership retail for just the rings alone would have been over $50, and online not much less)

Anyway, to continue...

Step 128: Input 3rd Sprag:

Got the new sprag retaining ring (p/n 8682449):

Step 129:

Peeling off the old one:

Step 130:

Parts all laid out:

Step 131:

All the races and bearings pass inspection OK. A little trick putting it back together; twist the one-way bearings into place, as their "teeth" want to wind up "canted" like this:

Step 132:

New retainer installed; passes the one-way roller test. DONE:

Step 133: Case Cover Reassembly:

Drove the TCC relief valve out with a torx-tip screwdriver (because I did not have a 3/16" straight punch):

Step 134:

Here's the OEM parts:

Step 135:

Got the Sonnax TCC relief valve fix (p/n 84757-01K):This dingus reduces the amount of pressure required to open the TCC relief valve, which is supposed to extend the life of the TCC apply piston in the valve body and helps reduce overheating of the TC.
For $5, it's worth a shot :lol:

Step 136:

Instructions say the OEM TCC relief valve spring wants to be no more than 1.230" long; mine was a bit long:

Step 137:

So I hit both ends with a flat file:

Step 138:

The new valve style reduced cracking pressure because [valve plus spring] is shorter than [OEM ball plus spring]:

Step 139:

Drove the seat back in with a 13mm socket, followed by the other end of the extension:

Step 140:

Until level with back of case cover:

Step 141:

Then seat the valve by punching from behind:

Step 142:

Now I have a valve instead of a ball:

Step 143: More Case Cover Stuff:

3-4 accumulator parts with new seals installed:

Step 144:

Accumulator re-installed:

Step 145:

Another look at the Actuator Feed Limit (AFL) valve; checks out OK and was reinstalled:

Step 146:

Also the manual valve (actuated by the gear selector mechanical assembly in the case):Case cover is ready for installation into the case, when I get to that point.

Step 147: Valve Body Reassembly:

Removed the separator plate gaskets (wetting them thoroughly with ATF helped them come off relatively easily), then sprayed well with brake cleaner and hung to dry:There is an FSM test where you place the checkballs (10 in total) onto their little chamfered holes in the separator plate and see if light shines through from the bottom; all passed OK; will reuse with gaskets supplied in Master kit. Had the test failed, GM now replaces the gasket / plate / gasket with a plate with gaskets pre-bonded to both sides...undoubtedly to ease assembly. For 97-03 the p/n is 24217552; for 04+ is 24224544.

Step 148:

Sonnax boost valve and sleeve fix p/n 84754-30K:

Step 149:

Next to original boost valve and sleeve:The Sonnax part's valves are much tighter in the new sleeve than the worn old parts. I think this will have been worth doing.

Step 150:

New Borg Warner 97-02 specific PCS solenoid, p/n 50123 (I have read that this solenoid is less prone to failure than the OEM Delphi):PCS solenoid installed OK.

Step 151:

Sonnax TCC relief valve fix p/n 84754-43K:

Step 152:

Next to the original worn part:

Step 153:

This valve has a scarf-cut teflon seal (and an extra in case you mess up) that requires sizing. The seal is easy to install, but the sizing instructions that came with it were hard to understand, so I improvised with a layer of paper followed by 5 or 6 tight wraps with electrical tape, and let sit for 30 minutes:

Step 154:

This allowed me to install into the bore with no trouble using some tranny goo for lube:

Step 155:

After install, I held the valve with a screwdriver to compress the spring such that the seal was in place in it's bore (now I see what the temporary clips were for :) ):

Step 156:

After 10 minutes, the teflon seal was nice and tight, and I could install the new GM TCC / PWM solenoid p/n 24227747 (not year specific):

Step 157:

2 New Shift solenoids, about $15 each (p/n 24219819; not year-specific):

Step 158:

New VB TCC apply valve end plug, about $5 (p/n 24208635):After these are installed, Valve Body assembly is ready for reinstall.

Step 159:

After messing around some more with a meter with the original Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Switch, I am less than 100% confident in reusing it. The normally closed switches (of which the TC switch is one) are not responding as quickly as I'd like, even after more cleaning with contact cleaner. Maybe they are just too corroded.

Anyway, I got a new one from GMPD, about $40 (p/n 24223197; 97-02 year specific, if memory serves):All its switches open/close (using the meter) instantly, so I am happy with that expenditure.

Step 160:

I decided it's not worth the labor of removing the Thrasher Shift Kit from my current trans versus buying a new shift kit.

Got a TransGo SK-4T65E kit for about $50 shipped:

Step 161:

Here are the springs and shims for the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator (which I since installed):

Step 162:

Plus the piston seals and new accumulator spacer plate from the TransTec Master kit:

Step 163:

But it also came with firmer springs for the 3-4 accumulator in the case cover (which I went back and installed), which I have not seen in any other shift kit:The kit also came with other goodies...

Step 164:

TransGo's version of a fix for the OEM short-lipped inner seal for the third clutch piston, a chamfered seal and a spring for the groove (not needed for me since the TransTec kit had a long-lipped seal):

Step 165:

A new spring and boost valve (not needed for me since I got the Sonnax complete boost valve fix):

Step 166:

A long-lipped seal for the reverse servo (but again TransTec kit already has this):

Step 167:

Installing the Torque Converter Oil Seal the old fashioned way, with a hammer and a gigantic bolt:

Step 168:

The Thermo Element looks fine to me according to the manual; no need to screw with it beyond cleaning it off with some brake cleaner:

Step 169:

Another use for the Harbor Freight seal puller, yanking out the old Filter Seal:

Step 170:

Pounding the new filter seal in with a socket:

Step 171:

New 2-1 Manual Servo Seal:

Step 172:

Replace the dipstick tube seal:

Step 173:

New one, shows why this is sometimes called a "top hat" seal:

Step 174:

1-2 and 2-3 Accumulator, 2-1 Manual Servo, and tubing assembly reinstalled:

Step 175:

Another Sonnax goodie; the differential lube tube retainer (p/n 84532-01K, about $2)

Step 176:

Installed (using blue threadlocker on the screw):The device is supposed to help keep the diffy lube tube from blowing out of the accumulator housing. Even if it falls off, the filter will catch it.

Step 177:

New Wix Oil Filter (p/n 58837, about $15) installed, along with the pan gasket in place:

Step 178:

Oil Pan and magnet cleaned up

Step 179:

Needed a few new M6 pan bolts (p/n 1647346):(Sorry, didn't get a shot of the pan installed and the bolts torqued)

Step 180:

Forward Servo with new seals:

Step 181:

Installed and torqued down:

Step 182:

Reverse Servo with new seals:

Step 183:

Installed and held in place with big snap ring:

Step 184:

Differential assembly installed, using lots of tranny goo to hold all the thrust bearings and washers in place:(Sorry, didn't get a shot of the Case Extension Housing (and new seal) installed and held on with two bolts, only hand-tight for now. One word of warning; if the diffy is not installed right (typically due to one of the bushings or bearings not seated right), the extension housing will not fully seat into the case, and torquing down it's retaining bolts under that circumstance will crack the housing.)

Step 185:

New Forward Band installed (making sure to engage the anchor pin and the servo shaft):

Step 186:

Then the 1-2 Support Drum (which is what the Forward Band grips):

Step 187:

Then the new 2-1 Manual Band (again making sure the anchor pin and servo are engaged):

Step 188:

Then the Reaction Sun Gear and Drum (which fits into the 1-2 Support Drum and makes a 1-way roller; also, this is the part the 2-1 Manual Band grips):

Step 189:

Then the Reaction Carrier (with new plastic lube dam "glued" in place in the center with tranny goo):

Step 190:

The Input Carrier:

Step 191:

Got the Input/3rd Clutch Hub and the Input Shaft (with all new teflon seals installed and sized) back in the mail today (about a week from sending them out :D ):

Step 192:

Assembled the Driven Sprocket Support to the 2nd Clutch Drum to the Input/3rd Clutch Hub (spread some goo on the seals first for lube and sealing).

Step 193:

Marked all the apply holes:Filled the apply channels with ATF using a dropper, air-tested once again (Note: I had to invert the entire assembly to test input and 3rd due to the orientation of the drain-back check ball valves), and all clutches applied no problem 8)

My biggest rebuild issue yet (these *dang* seals) is now solved.

Step 194:

Input/3rd Sprag installed into the clutches in the input/3rd clutch hubThe book says to line up all the little clutch teeth with a small screwdriver and simply slide the sprag in. Yeah, right!

I just gooped it up with goo (to make it stay in place during installation), then rotated and "wiggled" it alot while the clutches lined up one-by-one and the sprag slowly fell into place. You know it's all the way in when the sprag rests on the thrust bearing and is more or less flush with the top clutch plate. This took about an hour.

Step 195:

Reverse Reaction Drum installed; the far end has large "teeth" that mesh with "teeth" on the OD of the Input Carrier:

Step 196:

Reused Reverse Band installed, again making sure to engage the anchor pin and the servo:

Step 197:

Input Sun Gear Shaft well-gooped and installed into the end of the sprag:

Step 198:

The spiral-cut gears on the Input Sun Gear Shaft mesh with the planets in the Input Carrier (easier said than done) when the Input/3rd assembly is installed:

Step 199:

Using the ASTM Test Method 2 for measuring the play in the Input Hub / Driven Sprocket Support; I then temporarily installed the Driven Sprocket Support:

Step 200:

Took out all the play in the differential:

Step 201:

And measured the "ledge" between the face of the Driven Sprocket Support and the edge of the casing:

Step 202:

Specification is 0.006" to 0.012"; I measured 0.008", OK!Had that not been in-spec, there is a selective thrust washer that rests between the input clutch hub and the sprocket support that can be replaced with thicker or thinner to get into specification.

Step 203:

A new set of thrust washers:

Step 204:

For now I'm using this coated metal one (old left, new right) that goes between the Driven Sprocket Support and the 2nd Clutch Drum:All these other replacement thrust washers will get used in the case cover and sprockets reassembly.

Sorry I did not get a pic of the the 2nd Clutch Drum I installed next; it had to be rotated (like the sprag) to get it's clutch plates to line up one-by one and drop the drum into place; though this one only took a minute. You know it's fully seated because teeth on the near end of the Reverse Reaction Drum engage teeth inside the 2nd Drum, and the darkened pattern on the outside of the drum where the Reverse Band gripped lines up with the band.

Step 205:

Here then is the Driven Sprocket Support installed:Getting that baby into place was tough at this stage, because it's teflon seals have to slip inside the 2nd Drum, while the Input / 3rd's teflon seals have to slip inside the Sprocket Support. Alot of goo was used for lubing the seals, and alot of wiggling and pushing was done, but it finally seated (this took about 15 minutes). Wear marks on the outside of the Support versus some case protrusions told me exactly how to rotate the Support into it's original orientation.

With a flashlight I could look down inside the "leg" of the trans (outside all the clutch assemblies) and see that all the bands were still where they should be, and that the reverse reaction drum was still properly engaged.

I took the Driven Sprocket and temporarily installed it onto the end of the input clutch hub and was able to hand-rotate all the assemblies; everything moved freely (though with effort) with no wierd noises or hangups.

Step 206:

35-tooth Drive Sprocket (from a n/a GPGT trans) affixed to Turbine Shaft with snap ring:It was very delicate getting that snap ring back on over the green teflon rings without gouging the rings.

Step 207:

Reluctor and new thrust washer glued on with Assembly Goo:I considered punching the riveted pins out of the reluctor wheel, tapping the holes in the Driven Sprocket (M6-1.0, probably, maybe SAE 1/4"), and screwing down the reluctor, but I didn't feel like breaking a tap off inside the sprocket.

Step 208:

Also, new thrust washer glued to back of Driven Sprocket:

Step 209:

A word about the new Drive Link chains (which I scored off an EBAY auction for $17 shipped 8) ):  The new chains are labeled "HV-065 / HV-093" (rather than just "HV-065" as listed in the catalog for this 4T65E TranStar 51973E part number). Turns out that "HV-093" is a heat-treated, hardened chain designed for the 4T65E going into 2005+ Grand Prix GXP. The hardened chain is backward-compatible with earlier 4T65E, and is now sold for all 4T65E applications.

Step 210:

The hardened chains are verified by the presence of two blue "master" links, versus one blue link in the old chains.
New chains (in bag), versus old chains:

Step 211:

the chains on the sprockets:

Step 212:

Then installed into the trans:Getting the turbine shaft into place took some Goo for lube and alot of wriggling and pushing.

Step 213:

The new chains clear the case by 0.342" (versus about 1/4" with the old chains, which apparently were slightly stretched):

Step 214:

New 4th Clutches and Steels:Note the copious fluid channels in these Borg Warner fibers; should reduce clutch burning in OD.

Step 215:

Fibers soaked in ATF for 30 minutes:

Step 216:

New hardened 4th Clutch Hub (p/n 24207289, about $45):

Step 217:

Plastic Lube Scoop with 1/8" filed off the lip with a flat file (to clear the larger diameter 35-tooth Driven Sprocket from a n/a GPGT trans):

Step 218:

4th Clutch Hub (must seat fully into Input Sun Gear) and Lube Scoop installed:

Step 219:

The 4th Clutch Apply Plate, new fibers and steels in place:

Step 220:

Case Cover (aka channel plate) with new thrust washers goo'ed to the back and Manual Valve in place

Step 221:

Case Cover Gaskets lying in place, located by the two locating pins:(Manual says these gaskets can be held in place with some assembly goo if need be, but I did not want to risk forming leaky spots)

Step 222:

Case Cover installed, and all bolts (including the one replacement for the bolt I rounded) torqued down:It was difficult getting the Case Cover's pump shaft sleeve over the teflon seals on the Turbine Shaft without dislodging the gaskets, but I did it.

Step 223:

Park Link, Manual Valve Link, Manual Shift Detent and Oil Dam assembled:

Step 224:

Input Speed Sensor installed:

Step 225:

New Oil Pump Shaft:

Step 226:

New scarf-cut teflon seal installed and gooped:

Step 227:

Then installed into Case Cover:

Step 228:

The other end that goes into the Torque Converter:

Step 229:

The Case Cover with four 1/4" Checkballs gooped into place:

Step 230:

A closeup on one of them:

Step 231:

Four 1/4" and two larger 5/16" (?) checkballs gooped into the backside of the Valve Body:

Step 232:

Closeup on a larger checkball:

Step 233:

Valve Body Separator Plate, Gaskets, and Screens and plastic Retaining Bolts (these hold the separator/gaskets to the Valve Body):

Step 234:

The gasket that goes against the Valve Body has a "V" punched into it, while the one that goes against the Case Cover has a "C":

Step 235:

The trans manual was surprisingly vague about which holes the screens and retainers go into, but the FSM was more detailed on that:

Step 236:

The Valve Body to Case Cover locating pin:

Step 237:

The Valve Body (with gaskets attached) laid onto the Case Cover, located via the pin and the pump shaft sleeve:It's important to be sure none of the checkballs gets dislodged when the VB is inverted and laid onto the Case Cover.

Step 238:

New Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Switch, the newer replacement Oil Pump installed, all switch, pump and Valve Body bolts installed and torqued, newer replacement Internal Harness installed, and the Side Cover gasket laid into place:

Step 239:

Side Cover square-cut seal gooped into place:

Step 240:

Side Cover installed and all bolts torqued: It's important to be sure the harness isn't dislodged or pinched when the Side Cover is laid in place, and that the Side Cover gasket stays in place.

Step 241:

Vehicle Speed Sensor with new o-ring seal:

Step 242:

And installed into Extension Housing:

Step 243:

Gooped up the c-ring on the differential end (the end with the shorter grooved section) of the Output Shaft: Not only will this lube when I pound the shaft into the diffy, it will also hold the ring "centered" so it won't hang up on that plastic lube dam :wink:

Step 244:

The Output Shaft slid through the transaxle and seated into the differential (with a hammer):

Step 245:

The PNP Switch and Gear Selector armature installed:

Step 246:

The Torque Converter O-ring Seal installed onto the Turbine Shaft:

Step 247:

A cheap mod: an Intense False Knock Elimination Kit (just a piece of DynaMat Xtreme), installed using a wooden wallpaper roller and a plastic screen installation tool from Home Depot:Lastly, I cleaned out all the threaded holes on the outside of the case with metric taps.


That concludes the 4T65E rebuild. All she needs now is a remanufactured Torque Converter; mounts, fill tube, brackets, etc. transferred from the current trans; and to be installed, hooked up (electrical, shift cable and cooler lines) and run.
<p>Saw where it was mentioned to add a drain plug. Not really worth the effort. These pans don't have a small sump spot. If you add a drain plug to these pans, it will hang down and can take a hit and cause even more trouble. Everything is already so low under here. </p>
<p>I read in one of the later steps where you installed the main splined shaft after all the other pieces were installed. That plastic slinger is or can be a bit of a problem. I think that if you install the long shaft with the snap ring on it first with that slinger ring in place, then install all the other pieces over it. Remove the top snap ring at the drive chain end first and put the transmission together then install the snap ring before you install the chain case cover. There is less chance of breaking that slinger ring that way. </p>
<p>Assembling this into the case is easier if you can stand the trans case up on a table so the diff end is up. After you install the planetary support and snap ring. Put your selective spacer and all the bearings in their places and put the case cover on. Next you can turn the trans over and let the main part of the case where all the internals go, hang down over the edge of your table and support it with a bucket or something that is the right height, use a clamp or some pins or anything that you can put in the top of the table to hold the case secure and set all the rest of the pieces in the case. Trying to put all of the parts in the case with it laying on the bench in close relation to how it goes in the car is pretty hard to do and get all the parts fit together. </p>
<p>I have found that many of the so called update and improvement kits don't always address every issue quite the way I would like my transmissions to work. I have done several various transmissions and used parts from different shift kit, correction and re-calibrations. TransGo/ Gill Younger, I think we lost him a while back. Any way, they have a very sophisticated kit for the old 700R4's that made those tranny's a real working outfit that would hold up to a heck of a lot. I have even made some of my own pieces to add some custom feel and function. Electronically controlled units like this 4 T 65, Ford 4 R 100, 4 L60 and 4 L80's and all the rest of them are a way different process anymore compared to the old hydraulic/throttle/vaccum modulated systems. </p>
<p>.003 of an inch is not the much and this spring is not going to notice that much difference. That spec you see in the manual is a close shot in the ball park. I think by filing both ends of this spring, you pretty much when to a small amount of wasted effort. Not going to cause any issue because you did it either. Just a matter of being just a bit too particular here. </p>
<p>Hi, I just went through your instructions. Excellent write up, two questions; how are you going to correct for the overall ratio change? There's a ~12% change in engine speed versus road speed. Does the computer need to be reprogramed?</p>
<p>Yes the computer must be reprogrammed if you change the final drive ratio. It costs around $500 for the software pack that will let you access the computer and re flash it. I would not recommend trying the dealership to have this done either. There are a few outfits that specialize in this stuff that will re program your PCM to you preferences, do a google search for 3800 performance and take your pick. I don't know if it's acceptable to advertise for any of those places here, that's why I haven't made any recommendations. There are 2 sensors in the trans that signal the PCM what the input shaft is doing and the output also. When you change the ratio, there will be a difference in the signal frequency that the PCM will see and cause issues. Once you decide who you want to program your computer, they will ask you for various parameters to assist them in getting the program file constructed and or they will give you a standardized file. </p>
Marianna, I was not the person that installed the transmission in the car so I would not be able to tell you. I WILL be making an instructable on taking out, rebuilding AND putting the newer updated 04 transmission in my car soon. But the rebuild book does not say anything about reprogramming the car's ECU
Hello i was woundering how do i remove transmission bolt on passnger side on a 97 buick park ave
<p>If your referring to the ones between the engine block and the trans, up close to the cylinder head, you need a long extension with a floppy joint and the socket that fits the bolts. Remove the tire on the passenger side and shine a light up in there. Reach in with your extension and socket and get it on the bolts. They're a bit tough to get to. I have seen a few that have had the transmissions worked on before I got to them and SOME shops will leave them out just because they are so hard to work with. I HATE that kind of work ethics. IMO&gt; if the factory deemed it necessary to design it with a bolt there, PUT IT BACK when you get to that point ! Leaving bolts out of places like this are what causes bell housing to break and then the torque converter/ bushings and basically the entire transmission is junk again. The one I am rebuilding right now is from a car that had the engine swapped out and the guy that did it is working at a shop where one of the other guys that has been working there used to work for me in heavy trucks, I trained him better than that I thought. </p>
<p>You mention FSM a few times. Is that the ATSG manual? </p><p>Thanks </p>
<p>Sorry for such a late resposne. but Yes</p>
<p>Yes those clamps will dimple the rings, one way to do this is to use a piece of an aluminum can cut and folded so there are no sharp edges and use a hose clamp to size them. The rings will shrink a little and then expand a little when you release the clamps. Be very careful when you assemble the hubs into the trans. All the places these rings go into have a slight chamfer so just a little larger rings is a good thing to have, makes for a good seal.</p>
<p>Good To know, I bought the shrinker/expander.... Now I do not even own the car.. lol. time to ebay some of the tools parts I have left over </p>
Hello i was woundering how do i remove transmission bolt on passnger side on a 97 buick park ave
unfortunately I do not know as I did not remove this transmission from the car

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