Refilling is quick, easy and economical. If you can refill a salt shaker, then you should be able to refill a Brita, PuR, or other brand water pitcher cartridges. All that you will need is an old cartridge, some activated carbon, a polyethylene plug, a sharp utility knife or Xacto knife. A 1/2" drill motor and 1/2" drill bit are optional, but can aid in rounding out the hole.
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Signing UpStep 1: A bit about activated carbon and where to buy small quantities.
The History of Activated Carbon
Activated Carbon was first known to treat water over 2000 years ago. However, it was first produced commercially at the beginning of the 20th century and was only available in powder form. Initially activated carbon was mainly used to decolorize sugar and then from 1930 for water treatment to remove taste and odor. Granular activated carbon was first developed as a consequence of WWI for gas masks and has been used subsequently for water treatment, solvent recovery and air purification. The unique structure of activated carbon produces a very large surface area: 1 lb of granular activated carbon typically provides a surface area of 125 acres (1 Kg =1,000,000 sq. m.). Activated carbon can be produced from a variety of carbonaceous raw material, the primary ones being coal, coconut shells, wood and lignite. The intrinsic properties of the activated carbon are dependent on the raw material source. The activated carbon surface is non-polar which results in an affinity for non-polar adsorbates such as organics. Adsorption is a surface phenomenom in which an adsorbate is held onto the surface of the activated carbon by Van der Waal's forces and saturation is represented by an equilibrium point. These forces are physical in nature, which means that the process is reversible (using heat, pressure, etc.) Activated carbon is also capable of chemisorption, whereby a chemical reaction occurs at the carbon interface, changing the state of the adsorbate (dechlorination is an example of a chemisorption process). (You can read more here: http://www.carbochem.com/activatedcarbon101.html )
Activated charcoal is good at trapping other carbon-based impurities ("organic" chemicals), as well as things like chlorine. Many other chemicals are not attracted to carbon at all -- sodium, nitrates, etc. -- so they pass right through. This means that an activated charcoal filter will remove certain impurities while ignoring others. It also means that, once all of the bonding sites are filled, an activated charcoal filter stops working. At that point you must replace the filter. (You can read more here: http://science.howstuffworks.com/question209.htm )
Over 100 years ago Ellen White, a health reformer & pioneer of the Seventh Day Adventist movement strongly advocated the medical uses for charcoal powder. The modern medical establishment has only recently begun to use activated charcoal powder as the preferred method of treating oral poisonings and drug overdoses: "It is thought to bind to poison and prevent its absorption by the gastrointestinal tract. In cases of suspected poisoning, medical personnel either administer activated charcoal on the scene or at a hospital's emergency department. Dosing is usually empirical at 1 gram/kg of body weight, usually given only once. Depending on the drug taken, it may be given more than once. In rare situations activated charcoal is used in Intensive Care to filter out harmful drugs from the blood stream of poisoned patients. Activated carbon has become the treatment of choice for many poisonings, and other decontamination methods such as ipecac-induced emesis or stomach pumps are now used rarely." (From the Wikipedia entry for Activated Carbon)
You can find it at any fish & aquarium supply. If your concerned that the quality of the carbon from an aquarium shop might not be up-to-snuff, then go to a homebrew shop, or some other source that you are comfortable with. The granule size you'll want should be relatively close to 8 x 16 mesh size or smaller, but NOT so small that it falls out of the holes in your filter housing. I purchased the NSF approved carbon I used for my filters through an ebay merchant (here: http://stores.ebay.com/Carbon-Eze ). No, that's not me, & I don't know them. :) They describe their products well and have a good reputation & that's why I've included them here.








































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My automatic coffee machine requires a filter at all times to work so this is perfect. They are bespoke, cost a fortune and are also expected to be replaced monthly. Despite the worries of some, this is much better than never replacing the filter.
If you look at the "Customers Who Viewed This Item Also Viewed" portion of the page which comes up it shows other types of similar(??) resins.
It's been a long time since I read these comments so what I apologize if what I'm about to ask has already been answered. If it hasn't been answered, can someone please tell me if they know hold long (as in how many gallons) the ion exchange resins in a Brita filter are designed to last? In other words, do the ion exchange resins "wear out" at the same rate as the charcoal....or do they have a longer life span?
I plan on building my own water filter out of an upside down 2 liter soda bottle with the bottom cut off and hole(s) poked in bottle cap (and possibly other places)....and if I don't have to, I don't want to toss out the ion resin beads every time I change the charcoal.
Thanks for any info you can give me about the life span of the resin beads!!.....:)
Please provide a source or edit this line out - I would love to know if it's true, but if it's not, it shouldn't be causing alarm to people like me who use PUR-filtered water for me and my pets.
Thanks.
nice concept. good for tast and odour issues (and pesticides).
All the activated charcoal I have seen is very expensive. A standard container even from the big box stores is about $8 for 9 ounces. This would maybe fill three Britta filters. One of the links to a bulk charcoal website lists 4 pounds for $52, that's $13 per pound while charcoal for BBQs is about 27 cents per pound. Is there a manufacture of filter grade charcoal that will be in the middle? Please post a source or link or don't make such a claim.
You could always just find some brita coupons if you want to take the easy way out.
That advice will cost you $3.75.
Not sure where you're looking but I found this pretty quick. For 5 lbs it's $6.08 per pound. It also says that the density is approximately 28 lbs/cu.ft.
1 cu.ft. = 958 oz.
28 lbs/cu.ft. = .0292 lbs/oz
Using your approximate 3 oz. per filter this gives .0876 lbs per filter.
Using the above cost per pound it gives $.532.
Even if these equations are rough and not including shipping it shows that sources can be found that make $0.50 per filter feasible.
To Rob5i, I ask that you do a little more research and a little more math.
To IAMSatisfied and all ibles authors, I ask that these types of analysis be added to any ible where an efficiency is stated.
Other than that great instructable, I look forward to trying this. Thanks
http://www.instructables.com/id/Filtered-Pet-Watering-Bowl/?&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40
I mainly want to refill a filter on a running water pet bowl for cats to cut down on the gelatinous gel layer that forms on the bottom of bowl. I was wondering if the carbon needed would be same with running water being recycled with pump. Would just simply measuring the amount of carbon in existing filter and replacing it with same amount be adequate and safe for my pets? Does anyone have insight? Could there be a hazard in adding tooo much carbon to a filter? Thanks in advance!!
I can't guarantee that will take care of any stuff sticking to the bowl, but it seems like it's worth a try.
Oh wait, here's an instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Water-Purifier/
(still stupidly expensive, as someone says up there, there is silver in them? the price of silver has tripled in the last few years so thats probably why)
I'll shall try this instructable - thank you!
Now the issue is with the activated carbon. We got some from a pet store, but the particles are much too large. So we tried making them smaller using a coffee grinder, but it didn't make them uniform, so some were the right size, while others were fairly large, and there was a lot of really tiny particles. So when we soaked the filter, the water kept turning black from all the small particles leaching out of the filter.
I realize I can buy some online that are the exact size I need (which I plan on doing), but I am also wondering if I can still use the carbon I already bought. I am thinking that if I use it as is (big particles), the filter will just not last as long, and I will have to change it more frequently (because the big particles have less surface area). Does that sound right? Or does anyone know of a way to make the particles smaller, but consistent in size?
Ace Hardware has them. Had to buy some for a broken drain on a camp cooler.
Don't bother asking for help, as I'm sure you've discovered, the staff at HD are lucky if they know how to find their way out of the break room :-( You might get somewhere by taking a picture of the caps with you to show them. But no guarantees.
I'd look into alternate uses for the spent carbon.
The actual brita filters what do they say their effect on heavy metals like arsenic? The town I am in now ( just got here last week) has found one of its supply wells has Arsenic in it which they are working to fix. Besides" it only effects about 200 houses". Ahh yeah right, ok which two hundred and is my apartment one of them. So I am buying bottled water now.
May consider buying a large osmotic unit for under the sink, for coffee and cooking.But over all a great article on how to. Thanks
When all the scale has been removed, thoroughly rinse the container and its ready for use... --Insane Wayne