How to rejuvenate a box fan

Many people throw fairly new box fans out well before their time. Like most small appliances, people don't take the time to clean them, even though it will make them last much longer. I guess it is easier to put it out for the trash and spend another $20-$30. Whenever I see the towers of box fans for sale, I always wonder what happened to the ones people bought the year before.

After only one season a fan may be covered in enough gunk to give the illusion that the 'motor' is worn out, when really all that is needed is a good cleaning to keep it running for a lot more hours. I have often picked these up on trash day, and gotten years of use from them. Rarely I may have to replace a knob, but usually they are functioning, but the blade speed is about half of normal.

Step 1: Tools

Just a few tools, though you can use many more for cleaning depending on the gunk level.

Screw driver
Paper towel
Dusting Brush
All Purpose Cleaner/degreaser
Finger Nail Brush
green kitchen scrubbies
steel wool

Comments

[m1sterb0b]

I would like to add something to this step. My dad has a box fan that was his dads. Thing is really old. It stopped working because he left it out in his pole barn and the dampness got to it. It would hum so we knew that the coils were getting electricity in the motor but it just wouldn't turn, so I knew it was the bearings. I opened the motor and I cleaned the dust out of it. I can't remember how I did, I want to say I used WD40 but I'm not sure. Maybe I just cleaned it out with a brush, but I did the same to the bearings. I then put some heavier motor lubricant on the bearings and I worked them around a bit, then I stuck the motor back together and I put a little more lube on the bearings and I worked the motor around a little, plugged it in and it turned on and it works as good as new now.

[Astinsan]

wd40 is not something you should ever use on a motor. it isn't a oil. it never has been an oil. You could have a fire using it as a oil on a motor.

[metlcutter]

Kroil is one of the best lubricants I've used for situations like this.

[pcooper2]

Kroil is actually a penetrating oil for loosening frozen fasteners and shafts. It may be good for freeing a fan motor that has become stuck due to thickened lubricant, but Kroil isn't advertised as being a lubricant. The stuff is water-thin, and I would expect a clean bearing running with nothing but Kroil to burn up in short order.

[metlcutter]

Actually Kroil makes versions of their penetrating oil that has lubrication (such as SiliKroil)..........i'm just in the habit of calling all their products "Kroil", sorry if I mislead anyone.

[bob.the.devil]

wow the motor in that one looks brand new. crazy what people throw away.

[wanna beco]

I never have to this. I duct tape a air filter to the back of the fan... I occasionally vacuum that filter. I have had them last decades. and I am very lazy. too lazy to clean like this.

[carpespasm]

I just picked a large steel caged floor fan last pickup day. I think it spent it's last life in service to a pet groomer and was rusted and totally coated in a matte of animal hair. I took a wire wheel to it, cleaned and oiled the motor, and painted it. It looks great and will probably run for years to come now. Funny thing is my brother bought an almost identical one the same day.

[nhepner]

That's what was missing from the box fan instructions! Oil the motor. I just use wd40 to oil mine yearly. Keeps it new forever. Another thing I do is remove the fan blades and wash and dry thoroughly then bolt back in place. My fans all run like new. I've been lucky enough to find them with thermostats so they turn off when it gets cooler.

[jeanellen]

Hi, would love to know how you opened the caged floor fan. I have a Typhoon High Velocity Floor Fan (42017) and own a cat so the blades need serious cleaning after two summers of non-stop work. Only problem is that it looks like the cage was put together with one side having little bits that have clipped over the 2nd 1/2 of the cage but doesnt seem like it is intended to unclip. please excse my poor explanation - am not technically minded. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Jean.

[BigDaddy69_77]

Sounds like my Patton fan I've had for decades. It's a challenging one, but once you do it will have no/a lot less problems the next time. The "clips" are pretty much "popped" into place forcibly with a large flathead screwdriver and much be undone the same way in reverse - think popping off a hubcap with a tire iron. I'd suggest finding a large, sturdy (not the same thing, the flat part of the head should be large/wide to span a wide gap when twisting and the shaft should be sturdy, so it will not bend under strain) and figuring out where the coils from one half of the grill meet the other half. Insert your flathead between them and twist. If you're properly in the middle the halves should separate and the "clips" will pop off. You're essentially flexing all the metal in the grill such that the clips popout and will be reinserted forcefully the same way in reverse. They're not really clips, they're little bent legs perpendicular for the grill "circles." So you'll likely have to go all the way around repeating the procedure for each clip/leg. Now you can clean the blades and around the motor. So to replace, line up about half the clips in their right, seated locations and then you will have to "shoehorn" the remaining clips back in one at a time forcefully, such that the metal rings on the opposing half will yield to your pressure and bend outward to accommodate the leg's return. I wish I could post an image or video, but that fan finally died :-(

[carpespasm]

My fan had some 1/4 inch hex-headed screws going around the outside of the cage to take it apart. If you could post a good picture of one of the clips on yours I'm sure someone could help you out there, but barring that you could just pop them of and zip tie the cage back together where the clips are now. I've had to do that with old oscillating fans once the clips dry rotted and broke.

[rustaholic]

Thanks for saying FLOOR FAN. I bought one of those new. While I was gone one day my sweet wife thought it would be a good idea to put it on a dresser in front of a window. It hit the floor, the face grill popped off and two blades got bent up. I tried my best to straighten them, but we have a rather shaky, loud running fan now.

[carpespasm]

Yep, with as much as these weigh and as much thrust as they make they're best used on either the floor or screwed down to whatever other place they're set. They have two holes in the base you can use to hang it from a wall or something similar.

[WPee]

Some engineers use two sets of counter rotating blades to reduce noise and vibration. Is it about time to (over) engineer the BOX FAN ???

[carpespasm]

If you can make it work go for it. You might just have something that'll sell a bajillion double-bladed box fans. I hope that the traditional ones don't die off though, those things last forever.

[KingOfCoders]

People throw away box fans often? Why? I can/have run them weeks at a time, and after it's many "issues"; Kind of snapped off the control -_-... and broke the frame... and burned the wire... and the wire got cut off. Then we stopped using it lol. Anyway the last waaaayyy long and now I can make it last longer, thanks for the ible!

[x7319808]

WD-40 is a form of fish oil developed for the military

[Monsterguy]

It really isn't made from fish oil...

[92033]

This has probably all been said before in one way or another. I have picked-up fand thrown out for trash. The blades wouldn't turn. A few drops of 3-in-1 or motor oild in a squirt can down the edge of the shaft on both sides and they loosened-up and run like new. Still useable for years. Unfortunbately, America has become a 'buy cheap and throw away' society. Years ago you repaired everything from toasters, clothes irons, fans, radios (replacing tubes), etc. No more. Lazy is the expensive way by throwing out and buying new. Save the money. One man's junk is another man's treasure.
~ ED

[zack247]

its true, we live in such a wasteful society, and the problem is most people have become so accustomed to it there isnt much we can do to stop it.

if everyone would fix their fans, computers, or even replace the fuses in their fridges or ovens, we would waste a lot less, in most cases a $3 fuse makes people throw out and buy another $400 appliance.

its actually kind of sad, when you think about it.

[hansonsux]

Every box fax motor will have two felt washers that go around the bearings, which supply the bearings with oil. They are normally hidden inside the motor housing. 20" in fans will often have two little entry points labeled OIL on each end of the motor. Modern 10" fans have a squarish motor called a "c-frame" motor, and they don't usually have the entry points, but those felt washers are in there, which often requires disassembly of the motor to properly lubricate it. Though, they are are faily easy get apart with only two screws holding it together. All in all to properly lubricate any fan motor is to get those two felt washers soaked with oil. Some people that don't know how just start dripping oil down the shaft, don't do that as it will not get those felt washers soaked and won't last long. In 20" fans, it's a metter of placing 20 drops or so of oil into each of the OIL openings -depending on how "dry " it is. On the modern 10" fans with a c-frame motor, once you get the motor apart, take the two "plates" that contain the bearings, and on the inside sureface normally hidden when the motor is together there are little slots all the way around. Just under that slotted piece is the felt washers we're after. Place several drops of oil into the slots until it stops absorbing any more oil. Wipe away the excess oil on the outer slotted metal surface that looks like it might drip when the assembld fan is stood upright. Now proceed to reassemble the motor and you're done. It can be even be better than factory new since I find sometimes the factory doesn't use enough oil. On any fan wipe down the shaft so it's dry before putting the blade back on, so you don't have a chance off the blade slipping off later.

[nature223]

also pull the BLADE off,and liberally lube up the motor shaft..BOTH ends,the fan side seems to go dry first. that makes a huuuge difference,they seem to spin forever turned off after being lubed up.compared to the hard almost screech to a stop they did "dry" also they move alot more air when spun up not fighting friction

[Spokehedz]

I second this. All cheap fans--be they box, desktop, stand, or ceiling--have basically the same motor inside. Take the fan blades off, and look at where the shaft enters the motor. You will see some gunk built up. That is the old oil that has attracted hair and dirt. Just slide it up and off the shaft. Put a couple of drops of a lightweight oil (sewing machine oil works well, but WD-40 will work in a pinch) around the shaft and spin it to get it worked into the motor. Then look on the back. Chances are, you won't be able to see the other end of the shaft from all the gunk. Clean that too. Put a couple more drops of oil around the shaft here and spin to distribute. Now, tilt the fan forwards and backwards--the shaft should slide in and out a TINY amount. If it doesn't, or it sticks just add more oil and spin some more.

[Spokehedz]

I am replying to my own comment to say that you should only use WD40 in an absolute emergency, or when it stops spinning entirely. WD40 is not a lubricant, but it does work to get things moving again when they are stuck.

[rocketguy]

I agree with everything but the WD-40. It "sorta" works, but it's not designed as a lubricant (common misconception) it's actually designed as a penetrating oil to remove water, what little lubrication it provides is usually temporary and not really what I'd call good. That said, it's better than nothing, but I'd just use tri-flow or sewing machine oil as spokehedz suggests.

[servant74]

If you have a kid in a band, using 'valve' or trombone 'slide' oil works well. On other horn slides they use a grease (Vaseline like). Trombone slide oil is actually lighter than trumpet or French horn valve oil.

[Sgt.Waffles]

WD-40=Water Displacement Formula 40.

[shortw]

I would not recommend WD 40. One time I had a small motor and I used WD 40 to lubricate the shaft. I let it sit for 2 day's and when I wanted to use it the shaft and the bushing ( bearing ) corroded together.

[rocketguy]

Perxactly.

[Sgt.Waffles]

Indubitubly.

[robprimeau]

Thanks for this info to. What kind of lubricant would you use on the motor shaft? Also, when you pull the blades off, where on the motor are the proper places to lubricate? I'm interested in not starting a fire:)

[Gonazar]

Just use WD-40, i thought that stuff was pretty much all purpose...

[servant74]

Use WD-40 first, then follow up with a 'real oil' and you are good to go in most cases. Light oils like musicians use or sewing machine oil. Motor oils tend to be heavier.

[tmasman]

The problem with WD40 is it's a solvent, not a lubricant... It works well to clean things up & lubes things pretty good while it's "wet", but once it dries up, there's no more lube! You really should use an oil or grease for long lasting lube.

[leebryuk]

Do we really need to start the whole WD-40 conversation again? This isn't a hi performance electric engine. Anything you do to it will be far better than what shape it came in. If WD40 is what you have on the shelf, then use it. It will not bring about the apocalypse, nor does it have anything to do with the rapture. Use what you have and don't sweat the small stuff.

[kill-a-watt]

3 in one oil would be a good choice

you could also get some Automatic Transmission Fluid or 30 weight motor oil and thin it down with some kerosene. Using ether straight (neat for UK readers) would not be the end of the world, it would only be not ideal.

Sewing machine oil

And BTW, WD-40 is a solvent mixed with a lubricant. It also worked a lot better as a diesel starting fluid back when it was pressurized in the can with butane.

[rustaholic]

3 in 1 oil also makes an oil just for electric motors.
I have also maintained larger electric motors at work that take 20WT non-detergent oil for their bearings,

[Calorie]

Yes, you are correct. You are absolutely correct. But

WD40 is not just a solvent. It is a solvent with a lubricant. The solvent helps pull the lubricant into the tight places. Once the solvent evaporates the lubricant is exactly where it needs to be.

In the States it is largely sold in pressurized cans. Actually, I can't remember when I last saw it in a consumer squeeze can. I've seen it in a gallon container though.

The following isn't particularly relevant, but...
I use to volunteer at a bike rehab clinic. We used a motorcycle chain lube on the bikes going out into the world. We knew that they would see additional time on the streets and were unlikely to be maintained.

There's some guy who does tutorials both on youtube and Instructables. He just trips daisies if you even mention WD40. They behave like it is fuming acid sprayed on your bike. To him you need the expensive chain lubes that you dutifully dot into every link. And you must use certain greases only in certain areas in a bike's headset, etc. It's a little intense.
And the moral of the story...

Use what you have, because you already have it.

[kill-a-watt]

I don't see why people don't use full chain guards on bikes anymore. That would keep the chain in great condition and only add 1 or 2 pounds two the whole bike. Seriously, with the "fixie" craze, its not even safe to have a guard free bike. I can't believe more fingers, pant legs or socks don't get chewed up in those things. I use ATF on my chain and change it frequently. I've got a un-hip 6 sprocket freewheel that takes the cheap ahd heavy duty chain that they sell at wal-mart for a few bucks.

[Calorie]

That is so true! Full chain guards are the best. I have one on a dutch style bike. I rode through rain and snow, ice, salt, grit...everything. I take it apart every so often and check for wear. After 1,200 verified miles it is still clean and new.

*The fixie stuff gets under my nerves as well. I want to strangle a person when they offer a lame beneift of "it's so much less maintenance." They aren't. Modern drive trains are incredibly reliable. I wish they would just admit it's for fashion. Then I would just think it was their choice.

*I agree with you once again. Ride what you got. And keep it cheap. My road bike is 6 years old, and will be fine for another decade. Mix it up and have a nice time. Buying something too expensive makes you nervous about damage and theft.

*For the oil I would honestly say that WD-40 works fine. If you want to step it up a notch use Gt 85   http://www.gt85.co.uk/  I've used it for years and it is available in your local bike store. But honestly, WD-40 is fine. Just don't tell the bike police!

*I do think that the bike mechanics have a point, but they are confusing correlation with causation. The bikes that have been lubbed with WD-40 come in an awful state. So they make a connection between trashed bikes and gunked chains. But I personally think it's really a situation of those who use WD-40 don't know how to maintain a bike.

[my_key]

Why not. It learned me something I didn't knew :) I already suspected that the lubrication of WD-40 was pretty volatile, since I noticed that yesterday while trying to lube something. But thanks to you guys I know about the Water Displacement. Thanks. I'm a happy man now.

[jgodsey]

Where's the love for Marvel Mystery Oil? always have a bit of that stuff around.

[x7319808]

My dad used Marvel in his air tools to keep them lubed up.

[nature223]

easy..pull the blade,or unscrew and remove it if it is made that way. apply ANY decent oil,3 in 1,or even a little engine oil. the trick is to pull the shaft out,and then push it in and turn it at the same time to work the oiul into the motor's bushings,they get dry and then the oil has to get "pushed" in there (more like smeared) but trust me when it gets lubed you'll feel the shaft spin sooooo much easily,also runs ALOT cooler. just a drop at a time on the shaft and let gravity help you,as you pull the shaft back and forth...not much give but any fore and aft play,you can get the oil to fall into place.

[matchbookhymnal]

I take mine to the (non-automatic) car wash when they get really dirty. I let them dry outside for a day or two and they start right back up! I only spray from the side with the plastic protector. Most years they just need a vacuuming. Several of mine came off the street, thrown out because they were dirty!

[shortw]

I wash mine like this too. I use the garden hose, but before I spray the fan down I spray the fan with a dish detergent and water mix first and let it soak. Wash with the water hose, rinse it well, let it dry for 2 day's. Works every time. Just as a side note. I done the same with my HP 915 Printer. I sprayed it with the detergent/ water mix, took it to the kitchen sink and used the sprayer at the sink, sprayed it inside-out, let it dry for 2 day's ...no more streaks. The secret is....let it dry completely and don't use any heater or hair dryer.

[emeraldcateyes]

So I am not alone looking for HOW to clean the twin window fans...I cant figure how to get the "clips" off so I can get to the blades.....anyone figure it out??

[katiedice]

Can anyone please tell me how to clean those twin window fans if you cannot get them apart? Thanks for your help.

[permazorch]

@katiedice:^
This is exactly why I'm here, too. I see it's been two years since this thread and your post. I'm ready to dump our filthy twin window fan (I can't get it apart), but I don't want a repeat of the waste. I'm researching how to clean the next one of these machines.

It would be nice to see a retro-fitting instructable, as in zip tie reattachment after cleaning, etc.

Thanks, y'all!

[billmach]

For the newer fan a GREAT cleaner for plastic is whitewall cleaner for tires, Westley's Bleche-wite.  Works better than dish soap for getting grime off, just spray it on and it loosens everything up and most times no scrubbing is required.  I use it on the blades and grille.  Saves a great deal of time on the grille since I don't really even need to touch it.  Give it a try.  I found so many other uses in the house for it too.

[melbee]

After scrubbing, take a knife and wrap a kitchen towel around the blade (a towel works better than paper towels that just shred to pieces in no time). Use it to get into crevices and wipe off the dirty black water. If you leave it to air dry it'll just dry into black dirt again.

[oldairking]

i have had much experince with cleaning/useing vintage fans i currently have 2 60's air king box fans run with zero problems the only old fans i have ever had burst in to flames are fans with ge motors that have the x styel vent holes one also a good way to clean out a fan motor is use a air compresor

[mntboi]

I agree that it is easy to make them "pretty." But safe is another issue. Picking and scrubbing can damage the windings. But then again I've seen people take their box fans to the car wash and spray them out year after year and they still run. I certainly don't recommend that because of rust in the motor. Box fan motors are better than they were 30 years ago. They used to have a bad habit of catching on fire or burning up. Too much friction around the shaft puts a heavy strain on the motor. The motor heats up, it melts down the protective coating on the windings and POOF! The best thing is just use good oommon sense. If it doesn't run easy - don't run it all night or when you are not home! Fans that are 40 - 100 years old. Even if 100% restored, its still not a good idea to run them when you aren't watching them. Most box fan motors come apart by taking the 4 screws out. You may have to pry the casing off with a screwdriver but NEVER stick the screwdriver down in the winding to "pop" the casing off. Usually just gently tapping the screwdriver on the rim of the casing will get it off unless it's an old vintage fan that has been sitting for years. The windings are covered in a protective coating and there is the remote possibility of breaking one of the winding wires or shorting them together. If the motor is really dirty with dust, etc. you can use some canned air and spray it out. I usually use a vacuum cleaner with brush attachment first to remove as much dirt as possible. No water - no WD-40. Nothing moist. Those are electric wires and we all know water and electricity don't mix. Again, common sense. If the fan has been used in a window during a rain storm or in a humid area, the shaft and barrel can develop rust and keep it from turning freely. Just make sure you watch really careful about the bushings that are on the shaft. Some fans have some really strange setups and it is MOST IMPORTANT that you put those washers or bushings back on in the same way you took them off. Get a cup or something to put your screws, bolts, washers etc in. If you lose one - that's it. It won't perform well anymore. Lubrication. So many do's and don'ts and opinions. The actual shaft itself is really not lubricated inside the bearing. There is usually a well behind the bearing with a felt pad that holds oil. 3 in 1 is just fine no matter what anybody says. Where you see the oil hole, drop a few drops - don't over do and drown it. This is definitely a case of "less is more." DON'T PUT AXLE GREASE ON THE SHAFT! It's too thick and the fan was never designed for that. It will eventually gunk up from friction and heat regardless of what anybody says. Older oscillating fans DID have grease in the gear box but box fans do not! If you flood it with oil what happens is the oil spins out and gets into the barrel, the shaft and becomes a gunky mess. The felt pad lubricates the bearing so it can move freely inside the well that it is placed in as the fan runs and vibrates naturally. It will put out just a tiny bit of oil to the shaft to keep it slick. Older oscillating fans have an oil cup with a spring loaded felt pad. There's nothing wrong with adding a tiny amount of 3 in 1 to the shaft when putting it back together. Most people think if you just drop tons of oil on the shaft it will run better. It will for a very short time. You are just adding to the gunk. It has to be pulled apart and cleaned. Starts slow and once it runs awhile it moves faster? Well the shaft has oil, dust, dirt, grease, cigarette smoke and everything else gunked up in there and when it heats up from the friction is does become more like oil and slick and the fan moves faster. BUT you are putting a big strain on the motor and eventually will burn out the windings. When you pull the motor apart the barrell should have some sheen to it. If there's rust or its really black looking with goop, take some light weight sandpaper and sand it off. Wipe it down really good to get any grit off of it after you sand. Wipe the inside of the motor where the barrel goes with alcohol. You'll be amazed at the goop that comes off. Clean the shafts. If rusty, sand them too very lightly. They should be shiny and slick feeling. Use a Q-tip with some alcohol and clean the inside of the bearings. Oil the felt pads. Put a drop of 3 in 1 on a paper towel and go over the shaft to lightly lubricate it so it will slide back into the bearings. Make sure you put the washers and bushings back on the way they came off. I usually clean those with alcohol too. Put the casing back on the motor and tighten the screws. THEN - hand turn the shaft! See if it is free turning without plugging it in. If it's not, you may have the casing screwed on too tightly or one screw tighter than the other or the bearings may have shifted a little in their wells. Just adjust everything and try it again. A properly lubricated and balanced fan will have a "spin down" time. The blades should just spin down until they eventually stop. If they stop more abrupt when you turn the fan off and seem labored, it needs cleaning and is putting a strain on the motor. Its not a big job or a hard job. You just need space. One thing I do use on shafts is a metal polish called "Mother's mag and aluminum." You get it at an auto parts store. It is a FANTASTIC chrome polish! It eats the bad layer of gunk off the metal and leaves a brilliant shine. It also leaves the metal smooth and slick feeling. Restoring a fan can be fun and very rewarding. It doesn't take long and yes, I have pulled them out of the trash too or by the side of the road. Most people just toss them when they get really dirty and don't function well anymore.

[Bardouv]

I recently bought a small fan to put on my desk. It was $2 at goodwill, but it had loads of gunk in it. I followed your advice and it runs pretty decent now. Great work.

[m1sterb0b]

one thing I forgot to add is that I like this instructable.

[meddler]

I thought this was a neat idea.

[jgodsey]

thanks, i just figured it was something only obvious to some people and others just needed encouragement.

[Whackmaster]

With all due respect to the poster I think this Instructable is pretty close to useless, or at the very least woefully incomplete. A tutorial on removing screws and cleaning surface dirt? C'mon. The most common reason a fan is thrown out is because it no long spins freely, if at all. Cleaning the dust off the blades surely will not help that; the fan motor needs to be disassembled, cleaned and relubricated! In fact, using a stiff brush to knock the dirt off the vent holes on a motor typically gets even MORE crud inside, making matters worse. Before you go and drip a gallon of 3-in-1 oil down the exposed shaft on the back of the motor, DON'T! Not only is 3-in-1 oil a pretty poor lubricant but it attracts dust (making matters worse) and actually "washes away" what little factory grease may be left. Oh, it may work shockingly well for a couple days, but then the very low viscosity oil dries up or burns up and you are left with something that is even less lubricated than before. If you are content with adding several drops of oil every couple days then you could sort of claim victory, but... The right way is to open the motor, clean the brushes/coils (just to reduce heating) and clean and lube the parts that hold the shaft in place. Besides the very obvious place in the back of the motor there is also a bearing/bushing at the inside front of the motor, and THIS is typically where the fan is binding. Clean it VERY well and lube it with something like axle grease, high-temp grease designed for clothes dryers, or even lithium grease although it is a little too thin to last more than a couple weeks. I appreciate what you tried to do, but I feel it was so incomplete as to border on pointless. Please don't take these comments as a dig or flaming; I would LOVE to see you redo your Instructable to actually REPAIR a fan instead of just make it prettier.

[jgodsey]

if we are gonna start restricting Instructables to ones that fit your personal standards or usefulness, then this site would be rather barren indeed. Many many instructables are merely pointing out things most of us view as obvious. I like to see them as reminders. As for your idea that MOST box fans are only thrown out when they no longer spin, is pure fallacy. I have picked up at least 10 of them that worked well after a good cleaning ESPECIALLY after college students have moved away. So many folks have criticized me for not taking apart a motor when i didn't need to, I wonder why none of them have bothered to INDEED take apart a fan motor and contribute an Instructable on the task.

[Vincer]

Great post: if you want to save time, I would add that you can use a dishwasher to wash the screens and the blades for you.

[008]

I dug out the box fan out of the garage last month when the low humidity and high winds were making my eyes itch. I removed the back grille and bungee corded a 20x20 dust filter onto it. No more itchy eyes, and no more dusty fan guts to clean out! Amazing how much crud the filter has accumulated in a month; that's junk that would normally be flying around the air and into our lungs.

[kd1s]

I can tell someone has a cat. Cats shed like crazy. Ever year I clean out fans, AC units, etc.

[mikesloane]

Before you start washing stuff, go around the screen with the upholstery tool on a vacuum cleaner and use the "crevice" wand (the narrow pointed one) around the motor to get most of the hair and dusts out. That will save a lot of the mess. As far as the screws, I save the sheet metal screws from all kinds of stuff that I discard - you can always force larger screws into the worn holes in the fan body - you really need everything to be pretty tight to avoid vibration and noise.

[jhon2891]

well to clean the grills you can also put it in a bathtub with warm,soapy water and scrub it there, I think that it would be easier.

[phaedrine]

Great instructable! Any ideas on sources for replacement knobs?

[crickle321]

I've used Tinker toys before. Your local Thrift or second hand store's toy section should have some potentially unique knob replacements. For my last car I replaced all the pop-up door locks and radio buttons with those vending machine "HOMIES".

[rustaholic]

Ace hardware

[bugmenot]

Another trick after you have removed the grill and the blades from the motor, take them out to the sand box. Sift sand through and the sand will scrub it clean after 2 passes. Then run it through the shower.

[servant74]

A 'cheap' sandblast job ... it works. I remember as a kid playing with mom's hard to clean serving spoons in the sand pile for a day. Then she took them in, washed them, and we had dinner using them.

[crickle321]

Mmm, I like this Instructable. Back in college at the end of each semester, there would be stacks of discarded fans sitting outside of every dorm. To help pay for books I use to clean them like this and sell them back to the upcoming freshmen. It's a shame the thin full length mirrors don't have the same resell value...

[winston3338]

Great Instructions. I have been doing it for years and some of My best fans came from dumpsters. I do brush the motor but You won't believe what comes out of the motor with caned air.

[fortgeorge]

If you have a power washer, or know someone that you can borrow one from ,cleaning the screens is REALLY fast and easy, like 2 minutes and you're done. You can use it on the blades too if you can(want) take them off. Otherwise(Obviously) you will soak the motor and other electronic parts. Makes cleaning these things go smoking fast. This is a nice instructable, something many people probably never think of.

[snarfnugget]

AWESOME. And I thought I was the only one who thought it was better to spend a few minutes cleaning an item instead of $30 for a new one. Heck, Ive taken "broken" answering machines and phones and such from friends and with a lil tear down and clean up...CHA CHING $50 saved.

[rustaholic]

When I read rejuvenate_{, I hoped you were going to really work on a fan with a problem.}
The biggest problems I see are worn out motors or stripped occilating gears.
I have tried oiling the motors and got a little use out of a fan.
Mostly what is needed are bushings or spacer washers.
Do you have any experience with these problems?

[potterrandy]

And I thought from the pictures that this box fan was becoming a ceiling fan, based on the pics......and it would be fairly easy to do assuming mounting and wiring would be "easy" , nonetheless a super cheap ceiling fan, out of a recycled product.

[Sinner3k]

A friend of mine (dude that lived on the couch kind of friend) did this exact same thing in the garage of a place I was renting at the time. It was great since he used to hang out in the garage a lot. Instead of duct tape, he used high-test fishing line wrapped around the rafters many times at the corners of the fan. It worked so well, we pretty much never had to sweep the floor during the summer.

[potterrandy]

Good story man, just goes to show that "great" minds think alike! haha.

[Rishnai]

I did duct tape a box fan to the rafters in my garage once... it stuck long enough to be useful. It was a hell of a project cutting it down, though!

[jgodsey]

There i will concede that the $20 box fan may not be worth more than 1 hour of my time to repair. Perhaps the more powerful fans are worth breaking down to fix the motors, but i haven't had much luck with the smaller ones. i have broken down two fans to make one good one however. I think I need to find a someone to teach me small motor repair. that's not something they used to teach girls back in the dark ages. perhaps we need a few instructables on small engine resuscitation.

[Scott_Tx]

Heh, if we could only retro-fit some bearings imagine the air flow we'd get.

[sevesteen]

Most of the dead fans I've revived need the armature shafts cleaned and oiled. Sometimes you can just flush them clean with oil, using the extension tube to get to the back of the shaft. If they do need to come apart, it is usually not more than 4 screws, and the shell will come apart. That lets the armature come out, and you shouldn't need to go any farther. Clean the shafts well, add oil or light grease and reassemble.

[KD7WHQ]

Most small appliance motors can be brought back with disassembly, cleaning, and fresh lube. The bearings in a lot of them, are sleeves of Oilite (r), which is a porous sintered bronze. To really get them clean, is an overnight process. Complete disassembly, and 99% isopropanol + a couple of paper towels.. Tear it down to nuts and lockwashers. Clean the armature shafts with the alcohol. Then put both of the bearings in a container that will allow them to be fully submerged. A lid is a good idea as well. Give the bearings a best-can wipe down with the alcohol, put them in the container, and fill it up with what you have left, or what will cover. Let it six hours or so, agitating occasionally, then remove them from the container to dry. This is where the overnight comes in. When dry, start dripping machine oil on the bearings until they will take no more. Slowly. Drip, and check back in a few minutes. Then put it all back together, checking for binding before calling it done. I've brought lots of things back from "dead" doing this..

[Scott_Tx]

The last fan motor I took apart had no bearings. Metal on metal. It prob came from the dollar store.

[sevesteen]

Those are plain bearings, rather than ball or roller bearings. Most fans (and probably most small-appliance motors) are similar--They have minimal bearing loads, so a more complicated bearing isn't cost-effective or necessary. These will generally be a brass alloy, often porous and impregnated with oil. Steel on brass wears less than either steel on steel or brass on brass.

[KD7WHQ]

You really can't tell Oilite from plain brass, as bronze is much the same color As an addendum, there is usually a felt surrounding the bearing, that supplies oil to the bearing itself. The process I outlined removes ALL the oil and goo, and clears the pores of the bearing itself. That last is the major reason for bearings lacking lube. And goo it is.. Essentially worn out oil, but black goo.. As Sevesteen said, anything more wouldn't be cost effective to produce..

[rustaholic]

With that great info I sure was surprised to see that you have not done any instructables yet. I am headed for a 1600 some mile round trip over the next 2 1/2 days. Then some time next week I will be tackling three motors your way. It will sure beat just squirting a little oil near where it needs to be.

[KD7WHQ]

It'll work ;) And having the oil able to get from the felt to the bearing would improve things, I'm sure. BTW, this is what it took to fix the blower in my portable heater. The fan kept freezing up, no matter the oiling. Did this, and no problems since..

[IAMSatisfied]

Using a solution of water and Simple Green or Castrol Super Clean helps to cut any grease or other sticky deposits.

[IAMSatisfied]

If you have an air compressor, it really helps to take the unit outside and give it a good blasting with an air blowgun, especially the motor,

[IAMSatisfied]

An old toothbrush helps get into the corners when cleaning the grill.

[MadScott]

I have a box fan that I bought in 1978 that I clean out periodically -- these things will run forever if you treat them well. Lube the motor with proper motor oil -- detergent free 30W or so if you can get a drop or two. Newer motors may not have oil ports in them but you can add them or pull the casing open if you need to.

[rocketguy]

I wouldn't recommend motor oil, just because what little volatiles and other not-good-for-human-things it contains will end up in your air. Minor concern, given the amounts, but why go there? I just realized that perhaps white lithium grease, which is often used in similar applications might be a better choice?

[Freedster]

My use for a box fan here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/%2425-air-filtration-system/?ALLSTEPS

Enjoy!

- Freed

[shooby]

hahah the fan will walk if its feet are missing.Good job, most people who have lived on a college campus in the US have experienced the usefulness and apparently disposable nature of a large box fan.

[tercero]

I would only "throw away" the box fan if the motor was seized or was squealing (bad bearings). I'd strip off whatever I could use first, and chuck the rest. But. You're right. We live in the age where we chuck everything instead of finding new uses for old items. I guess that's why I'm such a fan of "make". Good to see people coming up with new ideas for old items.

[rimar2000]

I used one of these as air extractor. I maked a hole in the wall, near the ceiling, and hanged the entire box fan (pardon, without the front grill). It works fine. Good instructable, I do that cleaning each two years.

[bumpus]

that fan was furry, my family has been using the same box fan for like...ever its like 70's green, and faded yellow...its awesome

[jgodsey]

We had one of those for 30 years too...very powerful motors AND the grills were designed to removed and cleaned without unscrewing anything! my mother used to make me do that every year. Mine died..the plastics were brittle and one day it fell over and the blades shattered into a gillion pieces.

[dirtysteak]

You might be able to simply give the grates a dip in diluted Hydrochloric Acid (HCl) - sold at pool supply stores under the name muriatic acid -ts cheap. Its really good at eating away organic materials, just don't breathe the vapors and do it out of doors. Also the vapors are corrosive, so don't let them waft onto anything metal unless you don't mind it getting super rusty super fast.

[jgodsey]

These plastic grates don't usually have more than normally household grime, like what is found on a stovetop fan. Normally kitchen grade degreaser usually does the trick. Sometimes I use Clorox Clean up.

[thewoodcarver]

I have always done this with my box fans at least once a month ..well maybe not as well as you did except when I first bring them out....the same goes for the smaller desk fans.. clean and they run better and put out more air ....the ones I find if they don't work I can always use the blade or case on the ones that have been dropped and just make a banging noise ... well documented easy to follow good pics A+ job

[kraM]

I have bin doing this for years only with my own fans though, so I havent had to buy or throw a fan ayay for quite some time, I never thought of just going out and finding one though... nice work and good pics

[jgodsey]

Thanks.

[Mr. Rig It]

Preventative maintenance is always good, sometimes people forget this in our thow aways society. God job.

[Patrik]

Might want to add this into the Green Science Fair contest.

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle - in that order! So If you can reuse a dirty boxfan that someone else is throwing away, you're doing the environment a much bigger favor than by simply recycling it for scrap plastic...