How to rejuvenate a box fan

Many people throw fairly new box fans out well before their time. Like most small appliances, people don't take the time to clean them, even though it will make them last much longer. I guess it is easier to put it out for the trash and spend another $20-$30. Whenever I see the towers of box fans for sale, I always wonder what happened to the ones people bought the year before.

After only one season a fan may be covered in enough gunk to give the illusion that the 'motor' is worn out, when really all that is needed is a good cleaning to keep it running for a lot more hours. I have often picked these up on trash day, and gotten years of use from them. Rarely I may have to replace a knob, but usually they are functioning, but the blade speed is about half of normal.

Step 1 Tools

Just a few tools, though you can use many more for cleaning depending on the gunk level.

Screw driver
Paper towel
Dusting Brush
All Purpose Cleaner/degreaser
Finger Nail Brush
green kitchen scrubbies
steel wool

Comments

[wanna beco]

I never have to this. I duct tape a air filter to the back of the fan... I occasionally vacuum that filter. I have had them last decades. and I am very lazy. too lazy to clean like this.

[carpespasm]

I just picked a large steel caged floor fan last pickup day. I think it spent it's last life in service to a pet groomer and was rusted and totally coated in a matte of animal hair. I took a wire wheel to it, cleaned and oiled the motor, and painted it. It looks great and will probably run for years to come now. Funny thing is my brother bought an almost identical one the same day.

[nhepner]

That's what was missing from the box fan instructions! Oil the motor. I just use wd40 to oil mine yearly. Keeps it new forever. Another thing I do is remove the fan blades and wash and dry thoroughly then bolt back in place. My fans all run like new. I've been lucky enough to find them with thermostats so they turn off when it gets cooler.

[jeanellen]

Hi, would love to know how you opened the caged floor fan. I have a Typhoon High Velocity Floor Fan (42017) and own a cat so the blades need serious cleaning after two summers of non-stop work. Only problem is that it looks like the cage was put together with one side having little bits that have clipped over the 2nd 1/2 of the cage but doesnt seem like it is intended to unclip. please excse my poor explanation - am not technically minded. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Jean.

[BigDaddy69_77]

Sounds like my Patton fan I've had for decades. It's a challenging one, but once you do it will have no/a lot less problems the next time. The "clips" are pretty much "popped" into place forcibly with a large flathead screwdriver and much be undone the same way in reverse - think popping off a hubcap with a tire iron. I'd suggest finding a large, sturdy (not the same thing, the flat part of the head should be large/wide to span a wide gap when twisting and the shaft should be sturdy, so it will not bend under strain) and figuring out where the coils from one half of the grill meet the other half. Insert your flathead between them and twist. If you're properly in the middle the halves should separate and the "clips" will pop off. You're essentially flexing all the metal in the grill such that the clips popout and will be reinserted forcefully the same way in reverse. They're not really clips, they're little bent legs perpendicular for the grill "circles." So you'll likely have to go all the way around repeating the procedure for each clip/leg. Now you can clean the blades and around the motor. So to replace, line up about half the clips in their right, seated locations and then you will have to "shoehorn" the remaining clips back in one at a time forcefully, such that the metal rings on the opposing half will yield to your pressure and bend outward to accommodate the leg's return. I wish I could post an image or video, but that fan finally died :-(

[carpespasm]

My fan had some 1/4 inch hex-headed screws going around the outside of the cage to take it apart. If you could post a good picture of one of the clips on yours I'm sure someone could help you out there, but barring that you could just pop them of and zip tie the cage back together where the clips are now. I've had to do that with old oscillating fans once the clips dry rotted and broke.

[rustaholic]

Thanks for saying FLOOR FAN. I bought one of those new. While I was gone one day my sweet wife thought it would be a good idea to put it on a dresser in front of a window. It hit the floor, the face grill popped off and two blades got bent up. I tried my best to straighten them, but we have a rather shaky, loud running fan now.

[carpespasm]

Yep, with as much as these weigh and as much thrust as they make they're best used on either the floor or screwed down to whatever other place they're set. They have two holes in the base you can use to hang it from a wall or something similar.

[WPee]

Some engineers use two sets of counter rotating blades to reduce noise and vibration. Is it about time to (over) engineer the BOX FAN ???

[carpespasm]

If you can make it work go for it. You might just have something that'll sell a bajillion double-bladed box fans. I hope that the traditional ones don't die off though, those things last forever.

[KingOfCoders]

People throw away box fans often? Why? I can/have run them weeks at a time, and after it's many "issues"; Kind of snapped off the control -_-... and broke the frame... and burned the wire... and the wire got cut off. Then we stopped using it lol. Anyway the last waaaayyy long and now I can make it last longer, thanks for the ible!

[x7319808]

WD-40 is a form of fish oil developed for the military

[Monsterguy]

It really isn't made from fish oil...

[92033]

This has probably all been said before in one way or another. I have picked-up fand thrown out for trash. The blades wouldn't turn. A few drops of 3-in-1 or motor oild in a squirt can down the edge of the shaft on both sides and they loosened-up and run like new. Still useable for years. Unfortunbately, America has become a 'buy cheap and throw away' society. Years ago you repaired everything from toasters, clothes irons, fans, radios (replacing tubes), etc. No more. Lazy is the expensive way by throwing out and buying new. Save the money. One man's junk is another man's treasure.
~ ED

[zack247]

its true, we live in such a wasteful society, and the problem is most people have become so accustomed to it there isnt much we can do to stop it.

if everyone would fix their fans, computers, or even replace the fuses in their fridges or ovens, we would waste a lot less, in most cases a $3 fuse makes people throw out and buy another $400 appliance.

its actually kind of sad, when you think about it.

[metlcutter]

Kroil is one of the best lubricants I've used for situations like this.

[hansonsux]

Every box fax motor will have two felt washers that go around the bearings, which supply the bearings with oil. They are normally hidden inside the motor housing. 20" in fans will often have two little entry points labeled OIL on each end of the motor. Modern 10" fans have a squarish motor called a "c-frame" motor, and they don't usually have the entry points, but those felt washers are in there, which often requires disassembly of the motor to properly lubricate it. Though, they are are faily easy get apart with only two screws holding it together. All in all to properly lubricate any fan motor is to get those two felt washers soaked with oil. Some people that don't know how just start dripping oil down the shaft, don't do that as it will not get those felt washers soaked and won't last long. In 20" fans, it's a metter of placing 20 drops or so of oil into each of the OIL openings -depending on how "dry " it is. On the modern 10" fans with a c-frame motor, once you get the motor apart, take the two "plates" that contain the bearings, and on the inside sureface normally hidden when the motor is together there are little slots all the way around. Just under that slotted piece is the felt washers we're after. Place several drops of oil into the slots until it stops absorbing any more oil. Wipe away the excess oil on the outer slotted metal surface that looks like it might drip when the assembld fan is stood upright. Now proceed to reassemble the motor and you're done. It can be even be better than factory new since I find sometimes the factory doesn't use enough oil. On any fan wipe down the shaft so it's dry before putting the blade back on, so you don't have a chance off the blade slipping off later.

[nature223]

also pull the BLADE off,and liberally lube up the motor shaft..BOTH ends,the fan side seems to go dry first. that makes a huuuge difference,they seem to spin forever turned off after being lubed up.compared to the hard almost screech to a stop they did "dry" also they move alot more air when spun up not fighting friction

[Spokehedz]

I second this. All cheap fans--be they box, desktop, stand, or ceiling--have basically the same motor inside. Take the fan blades off, and look at where the shaft enters the motor. You will see some gunk built up. That is the old oil that has attracted hair and dirt. Just slide it up and off the shaft. Put a couple of drops of a lightweight oil (sewing machine oil works well, but WD-40 will work in a pinch) around the shaft and spin it to get it worked into the motor. Then look on the back. Chances are, you won't be able to see the other end of the shaft from all the gunk. Clean that too. Put a couple more drops of oil around the shaft here and spin to distribute. Now, tilt the fan forwards and backwards--the shaft should slide in and out a TINY amount. If it doesn't, or it sticks just add more oil and spin some more.

[Spokehedz]

I am replying to my own comment to say that you should only use WD40 in an absolute emergency, or when it stops spinning entirely. WD40 is not a lubricant, but it does work to get things moving again when they are stuck.

[rocketguy]

I agree with everything but the WD-40. It "sorta" works, but it's not designed as a lubricant (common misconception) it's actually designed as a penetrating oil to remove water, what little lubrication it provides is usually temporary and not really what I'd call good. That said, it's better than nothing, but I'd just use tri-flow or sewing machine oil as spokehedz suggests.

[servant74]

If you have a kid in a band, using 'valve' or trombone 'slide' oil works well. On other horn slides they use a grease (Vaseline like). Trombone slide oil is actually lighter than trumpet or French horn valve oil.

[Sgt.Waffles]

WD-40=Water Displacement Formula 40.

[shortw]

I would not recommend WD 40. One time I had a small motor and I used WD 40 to lubricate the shaft. I let it sit for 2 day's and when I wanted to use it the shaft and the bushing ( bearing ) corroded together.

[rocketguy]

Perxactly.

[Sgt.Waffles]

Indubitubly.

[robprimeau]

Thanks for this info to. What kind of lubricant would you use on the motor shaft? Also, when you pull the blades off, where on the motor are the proper places to lubricate? I'm interested in not starting a fire:)

[Gonazar]

Just use WD-40, i thought that stuff was pretty much all purpose...

[servant74]

Use WD-40 first, then follow up with a 'real oil' and you are good to go in most cases. Light oils like musicians use or sewing machine oil. Motor oils tend to be heavier.

[tmasman]

The problem with WD40 is it's a solvent, not a lubricant... It works well to clean things up & lubes things pretty good while it's "wet", but once it dries up, there's no more lube! You really should use an oil or grease for long lasting lube.

[leebryuk]

Do we really need to start the whole WD-40 conversation again? This isn't a hi performance electric engine. Anything you do to it will be far better than what shape it came in. If WD40 is what you have on the shelf, then use it. It will not bring about the apocalypse, nor does it have anything to do with the rapture. Use what you have and don't sweat the small stuff.

[kill-a-watt]

3 in one oil would be a good choice

you could also get some Automatic Transmission Fluid or 30 weight motor oil and thin it down with some kerosene. Using ether straight (neat for UK readers) would not be the end of the world, it would only be not ideal.

Sewing machine oil

And BTW, WD-40 is a solvent mixed with a lubricant. It also worked a lot better as a diesel starting fluid back when it was pressurized in the can with butane.

[Calorie]

Yes, you are correct. You are absolutely correct. But

WD40 is not just a solvent. It is a solvent with a lubricant. The solvent helps pull the lubricant into the tight places. Once the solvent evaporates the lubricant is exactly where it needs to be.

In the States it is largely sold in pressurized cans. Actually, I can't remember when I last saw it in a consumer squeeze can. I've seen it in a gallon container though.

The following isn't particularly relevant, but...
I use to volunteer at a bike rehab clinic. We used a motorcycle chain lube on the bikes going out into the world. We knew that they would see additional time on the streets and were unlikely to be maintained.

There's some guy who does tutorials both on youtube and Instructables. He just trips daisies if you even mention WD40. They behave like it is fuming acid sprayed on your bike. To him you need the expensive chain lubes that you dutifully dot into every link. And you must use certain greases only in certain areas in a bike's headset, etc. It's a little intense.
And the moral of the story...

Use what you have, because you already have it.

[kill-a-watt]

I don't see why people don't use full chain guards on bikes anymore. That would keep the chain in great condition and only add 1 or 2 pounds two the whole bike. Seriously, with the "fixie" craze, its not even safe to have a guard free bike. I can't believe more fingers, pant legs or socks don't get chewed up in those things. I use ATF on my chain and change it frequently. I've got a un-hip 6 sprocket freewheel that takes the cheap ahd heavy duty chain that they sell at wal-mart for a few bucks.

[Calorie]

That is so true! Full chain guards are the best. I have one on a dutch style bike. I rode through rain and snow, ice, salt, grit...everything. I take it apart every so often and check for wear. After 1,200 verified miles it is still clean and new.

*The fixie stuff gets under my nerves as well. I want to strangle a person when they offer a lame beneift of "it's so much less maintenance." They aren't. Modern drive trains are incredibly reliable. I wish they would just admit it's for fashion. Then I would just think it was their choice.

*I agree with you once again. Ride what you got. And keep it cheap. My road bike is 6 years old, and will be fine for another decade. Mix it up and have a nice time. Buying something too expensive makes you nervous about damage and theft.

*For the oil I would honestly say that WD-40 works fine. If you want to step it up a notch use Gt 85   http://www.gt85.co.uk/  I've used it for years and it is available in your local bike store. But honestly, WD-40 is fine. Just don't tell the bike police!

*I do think that the bike mechanics have a point, but they are confusing correlation with causation. The bikes that have been lubbed with WD-40 come in an awful state. So they make a connection between trashed bikes and gunked chains. But I personally think it's really a situation of those who use WD-40 don't know how to maintain a bike.

[my_key]

Why not. It learned me something I didn't knew :) I already suspected that the lubrication of WD-40 was pretty volatile, since I noticed that yesterday while trying to lube something. But thanks to you guys I know about the Water Displacement. Thanks. I'm a happy man now.

[jgodsey]

Where's the love for Marvel Mystery Oil? always have a bit of that stuff around.

[x7319808]

My dad used Marvel in his air tools to keep them lubed up.

[nature223]

easy..pull the blade,or unscrew and remove it if it is made that way. apply ANY decent oil,3 in 1,or even a little engine oil. the trick is to pull the shaft out,and then push it in and turn it at the same time to work the oiul into the motor's bushings,they get dry and then the oil has to get "pushed" in there (more like smeared) but trust me when it gets lubed you'll feel the shaft spin sooooo much easily,also runs ALOT cooler. just a drop at a time on the shaft and let gravity help you,as you pull the shaft back and forth...not much give but any fore and aft play,you can get the oil to fall into place.

[matchbookhymnal]

I take mine to the (non-automatic) car wash when they get really dirty. I let them dry outside for a day or two and they start right back up! I only spray from the side with the plastic protector. Most years they just need a vacuuming. Several of mine came off the street, thrown out because they were dirty!