The inevitable nicks & scratches can happen to your car.
But sometimess, a person can be walking by... with a key in hand.... scratching from front to back...
I couldn't justify spending $$$ to respray, but on the other hand, it was so difficult to look at.
If this happened to your baby, here's a quick way to "remove" it.
Disclaimer:
This is not an instructables on how to achieve a concours finish.
Tools required
Masking tape
Various grits of sand paper (**600 and higher Automotive only)
Clean bucket of water
Spray bottle
wash sponge
Microfibre cloths
Rubbing/polishing compound.
Wax
Patience
But sometimess, a person can be walking by... with a key in hand.... scratching from front to back...
I couldn't justify spending $$$ to respray, but on the other hand, it was so difficult to look at.
If this happened to your baby, here's a quick way to "remove" it.
Disclaimer:
This is not an instructables on how to achieve a concours finish.
Tools required
Masking tape
Various grits of sand paper (**600 and higher Automotive only)
Clean bucket of water
Spray bottle
wash sponge
Microfibre cloths
Rubbing/polishing compound.
Wax
Patience
Step 1: Mask
Mask about 1" away from the scratch.
This will be the perimeter you very lightly wet sand within.
This will be the perimeter you very lightly wet sand within.
Step 2: Start wet sanding
With your bucket of clean water.
Wet the sand paper.
Spray the body panel with water.
Start lightly sanding.
Notes & Tips:
This was my first time doing this.
I found that starting with your highest grit (I only had 1000)
allows you to get a feel for how much clear coat you are removing.
If you find that your highest grit is filling up fast.
Try using a coarser grit (ie:600grit) with less pressure
It's not recommended but you can get away without using a sanding block.
After all this is a DIY and in reality you are blending the scratch.
While you're sanding with one hand, spray the surface with the spray bottle.
Use the spray bottle to clean your sand paper.
Wet the sand paper.
Spray the body panel with water.
Start lightly sanding.
Notes & Tips:
This was my first time doing this.
I found that starting with your highest grit (I only had 1000)
allows you to get a feel for how much clear coat you are removing.
If you find that your highest grit is filling up fast.
Try using a coarser grit (ie:600grit) with less pressure
It's not recommended but you can get away without using a sanding block.
After all this is a DIY and in reality you are blending the scratch.
While you're sanding with one hand, spray the surface with the spray bottle.
Use the spray bottle to clean your sand paper.
Step 3: Take a step back.
So you're sanding right?...
You're in the thick of it.
You're focused on that square inch of space.
Stop.
Take a step back.
Look at your work.
Did you take too much off?
Is it time to switch to a finer grit?
Are you done?
You're in the thick of it.
You're focused on that square inch of space.
Stop.
Take a step back.
Look at your work.
Did you take too much off?
Is it time to switch to a finer grit?
Are you done?
Step 4: Remove masking tape and inspect work.
Remove masking tape
Spray area clean with water
Dry with microfibre
inspect.
Notes:
The hazing is ok as it will be removed with the rubbing compound/polish.
The area where it gets a bit darker was where the key went through the clear coat.
Spray area clean with water
Dry with microfibre
inspect.
Notes:
The hazing is ok as it will be removed with the rubbing compound/polish.
The area where it gets a bit darker was where the key went through the clear coat.
Step 5: Polish & Wax
Polish with rubbing compound/polish.
I didn't have a buffer at the time.
So this was the first pass by hand with microfibre cloths.
I'm sure you could achieve better results with a buffer.
Lay on some wax.
and voila...
I didn't have a buffer at the time.
So this was the first pass by hand with microfibre cloths.
I'm sure you could achieve better results with a buffer.
Lay on some wax.
and voila...
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I now use this brand called Menzerna,
they have many different "cut" levels. (I'd go for their intensive polish.)
Also, I don't see a reason for the tape, unless the scratch is close to the edge of a panel.
Not sure what brand this guy used, but I've had great results using either Meguiars or Mothers products. Either of their rubbing compounds work fine. Not so sure I'd use toothpaste though. When you are dealing with the finish of your car, it's best to do it 100% right the first time.
Another thing to consider after you're all done, is to wash the car and run over the entire surface with a clay bar to get all the grime and dirt off and give the whole car a showroom quality feel.
But that's just my own opinion on what to do.
Also, you won't find this high of a grit of sandpaper at HD or Lowes. You'll need to hit up an auto parts store, (Kragan, Auto Zone, Checkers, etc..)
A warning for those following this process: GO SLOWLY! If the car has a basecoat/clearcoat finish (most in the US do), the sanding dust should be white. If the dust color suddenly changes to that of the car, you've gone through the clearcoat and can no longer repair it with rubbing compound.