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How to remove car window tint: the not messy, cheap, easy way

Step 5Tips & discussion

Tips & discussion
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  • final.jpg
  • car after.jpg
  • car before.jpg
Tips:
  • DO NOT RUSH - it isn't worth it. If you pull the whole sheet off you will have to steam the glue separately and it makes a mess, is annoying, and makes hair grow on your palms.
  • Listen to music/talk on the phone/drink beer - why not?
  • If you do pull too fast or some glue remains steam the hell out of it (15-45 sec) and rub it with a clean towel. It will ball up into yellow balls that are not very sticky. Wipe them off by pushing on a towel and wiping it hard (otherwise you'll just smear the glue around). It isn't too hard, just use a clean towel & don't rush..... Have I mentioned not rushing yet?
  • Wipe off the condensation on the molding around the windows, but don't worry about it. It will be fine.
  • DO NOT USE RAZOR BLADES, if you have to use a razor you're not doing it right and are going to ruin your defrosters & antenna (not to mention make a mess)

Discussion
(from Questions and responses from previous posts on BayAreaPrelude.com and preludepower.com)

Using Ammonia and razor blades:
Many people use ammonia, soap, and razorblades, garbage bags, and sun heat to remove tint. This is definitely cheaper, and how most people online have recommended removing tint. (for more complete instructions just google "remove tint") This process works, however there are some major problems. Firstly, this method is messy and smelly. Secondly this method takes longer (steamer > sun). Thirdly, if you make a mistake you could ruin your rear defogger, antenna, or scratch your glass.
With the method described in this instructable, the only mess is steam on the inside of your car and possibly some small balls of non-sticky glue.
We are talking about the difference of $25-$30 for a clothes steamer that you can use and return if you want, or use later to clean your car (it works great at removing oil & dirt buildup on armrests etc.), and on your clothes versus a bunch of garbage bags, soap, & razor blades that cost a few bucks and the possibility of a huge mess & the risk of messing up your car.

Outside temperature:
When I did it we were having a cold spell and it was in the 50s or maybe even the 40s. If it is colder out then the steamer will have to heat the window more, but it should still work. I'd guess if you're not in the arctic (or Minnesota in the winter), you'll be fine.

Best of luck, feel free to post your questions or post your success stories.

Thanks for reading,

- The DNR
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4 comments
Feb 12, 2012. 4:51 PMbckeye says:
This worked like a charm. If you are working on any window but the rear and go a bit too fast and leave adhesive behind, no worries. get a straight edge razor blade and steam the glue, simply scrape up the glue and wipe it on a paper towel. if you got the adhesive steamy enough it'll come off with no problem.
Dec 10, 2011. 4:37 PMno_cookies4you says:
You are my hero!

I picked up a new (old) driver's side door for my poor, wrecked car from the junkyard today, and brought it home to find old, grody tint all over the window once I rolled it up. Since I'm fortunate (?) enough to have the door currently sitting on my living room floor and not attached to a vehicle outside, steaming off the tint with my iron worked like a charm, and it only took about 15 minutes tops (and not even half a beer).

Oh, and I didn't bother removing the panel, just gave the sheet of tinting a good tug once I reached the bottom of the window, and it all came right off. Probably again because it's old, so YMMV.

Thanks for the instructable!
Jun 1, 2011. 12:34 AMAlvinMaker says:
Thanks a bunch for the ible. I just got an old acura and the back tint is so dark i can barely see though it in the day.
Jun 21, 2009. 7:46 AMday161293 says:
Do you have to take the door panel off in order to get to the tint below the top of the door or just forget about it? I am aconcerned the leftovers will mess up the window mechanism

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Author:The DNR