Step 6: Now REALLY squeeze it back together

this makes it possible to refit the hub cap
<p>oh and the website is www.prelovedbugz.co.uk</p>
<p>or if you cant be bothered to do it yourself! (or just have to left hands like myself - just could not fix this at all</p><p>prelovedbugz via ebay<br><br>spoke to a lady called hannah who does the repairs herself, mine cost &pound;50 and that was including her arranging it to be picked up and returned to me<br><br>no extra charge for parts<br><br>she was really nice, and helpful on the phone... alot more personal than using a bigger company (and kinder on the wallet!)<br><br>well i would recommend her - she put me to shame!</p>
The stainless ones on eBay that are waterjetcut are cheaper than shapeways and were actually manufactured 1st but also the integrity is guaranteed over 400 have been sold now
Brilliant. I've got one of these prams and the handle lock is fairly loose. I'm going to favourite this because it's bound to break soon. I'm tempted to take it apart and have a look, but you know that'll probably make it worse.
I should probably add that I've got a small CNC mill and some chunks of aluminium lying around, so would probably mill one myself from your design.
<br> If I were factory supervisor, I would send these (obviously cheaply made) parts for free to the customer who has ability to do the job himself. Anyway, your fix is better and you have made an interesting job.<br> <br> BTW: eBay has two sellers selling these in UK. Other one is made of stainless steel and the other one of hardened aluminium. Seller of the aluminium ones says that he has<strong> f ixed over hundred prams</strong> last year! What on Earth!<br>
Was there a safety recall on that part? For such an expensive carriage, I would think you could get warranty service or at least order the part since you took it apart. I think if it is determined that it is defective design causing the part to break, the manufacturer would want to know about it and remedy the situation immediately being the business they are in. <br><br>Be aware that replacing metal parts with another metal part in a critical application you have to know that the structural properties are the same or exceed the specs of the original part.
The response from Bugaboo was VERY slow and they only replied after 3 emails. The closest authorized repair center is around 900 miles away from where I live (In Australia) so I would have to send to get a full quote, at my expense... I had read around online and there seemed to be a lack of support post warranty.<br> The material I used to 3D print with <a href="http://www.shapeways.com/materials/stainless_steel">Shapeways is 420 Stainless steel</a> which is really quite strong .<br> http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=972<br> <br> There is a far greater likelihood of the small plastic pins that the steel component locks into failing before the stainless steel would.
The Shapeways 420 stainless looks like an interesting material. According to the specs, it has properties comparable to normal stainless (EDIT-not exactly comparable, but quite decent). I couldn't tell from the original picture if your original part was stamped or cast alloy or something else, but the shapeways part looks quite adequate as a replacement.<br><br>That being said, as per caitlinsdad, you have to watch out anytime you are changing materials, especially if it were a more critical application. 3D printing is awesome, but people need to be aware that sintered materials do not behave the same way as other metals, for example rolled steel, and more importantly, they don't fail in the same way. Sometimes, hard or rigid metal parts are good, sometimes it's the opposite of what you want.
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing re:replacing a metal part with an (inherently brittle) sintered part, but looking closely at the original pieces, it is almost certain they were some garbage zinc-alloy or aluminum castings anyway...
I just geeked ... this is awesome!
For this type of work, I would recommend Alibre Design. They have a free version and it is very good for designing precise solid parts at a fraction on the cost of Solidworks.
I take it that you designed the replacement part yourself before ordering from Shapeways, right? Any comment on how difficult that was?
I have a background in industrial design so the CAD part was very easy for me.<br><br>If you do not have CAD skills you could even trace it in Illustrator and use the Shapeways Image Popper to extrude it to the right depth.<br><br>http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/816-Introducing-Image-Popper,-a-new-way-to-easily-3D-model-and-3D-print.html<br><br>The only slightly tricky part was getting the angle and radius right, but modeling and printing (on paper) 1:1 to check made me fairly confident...
Interesting!<br><br>I do some work for a Wired Magazine blog called GeekDad. Would you be interested in doing a short interview for a posting? If so, get in touch with me as roy-at-geekdad-dot-com (you know how to parse that ;-) ).<br><br>Proof of identity is here:<br><br>http://www.wired.com/geekdad/author/rrwood/<br>
Cool, email sent..
This is great. What software did you use to model the piece?
I used Solidworks, but you could just as easily use Autodesk 123D or SketchUp which are both free,..<br><br>The STL file is available to download if you want to tweak or print at home?<br><br>The tricky bit was measuring the angle off of the curve and the radius off of the angle.

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