About 2 years ago, when after nearly 10 years of uninterrupted service our trusty Fisher and Paykel GW609 washing machine failed to start I wasn’t sure what to do. Should I buy a new one? Or should I try to repair it and in the process, save the environment of more plastic, lead, and who knows what else?
I felt that at least I should give the repair a go. But I didn’t have much time, I was under pressure by ‘management’ to get it going or get a new one…but soon!
And so I began searching the Net for schematics, technical info and anything helpful I could find. But very little was forthcoming. Only a few posts here and there but nothing substantial, the general consensus were that most of the faults are to do with the Control Module. The most useful information found was a copy of the service manual (attached) with a listing of the fault codes, but no reference to the Control Module or its schematic. It seems no one had been able to repair the Module and that this part is considered a throwaway by the manufacturer when faulty, to be replaced with a new one when it fails. This seemed like a waste of natural resources and money and so I decided to take a good look at it and check it, to see if it was really faulty and if so, could be repaired.

Step 1: Take Care!

During the repair, always double check and take a look at that plug to make sure it is off the wall before doing anything inside the machine.
Yes, here we are going to deal with possible electrocution if you are careless because the control board and peripherals are all connected to mains. So remove that plug before touching anything…and don’t forget there is water everywhere too!

Step 2: Opening the Control Panel

Make sure the plug is off the wall. It is convenient if the washing machine is empty of water and washing because the water level sensor will not be affected when it is disconnected, and latter on re-attached, during the repair.
Remove the 2 screws at the back of the Control Panel (see pic), and lift the Panel off the machine from the back rotating towards the front (see pic). You will see the Control Module (a long bluish plastic box with many cables and plugs) still attached to the machine. The Control Panel is connected to the Control Module by a cable with a plug. Disconnect this plug from the module and put the Control Panel aside in a safe place.
NOTE: all of the sockets in the Control Module have small plastic latches that secure the plugs to the sockets; you have to carefully unlatch the plugs to unplug them (see pic).

Step 3: Removing the Control Module.

At this point, if you have a Digital Camera handy, take one or two photos of the whole thing and keep it for reference later on, when re-attaching everything back.
First, with great care remove the pressure sensor hose from the Pressure Sensor by first removing the spring clip towards the hose and pushing the edge of the hose away from the sensor (see pic). Do not pull from the hose as this will grab the sensor’s plastic pipe and possibly break it! Take care, as the hose will most probably be stuck to the sensor by years of close contact.
Next, unplug the spade connectors on the top-left corner noting their positions. This is very important because they are the mains and the ground connections and these must go back to the exact same locations.
Now remove all the plugs from the Module (they are all of different sizes so there is no need to put marks on them for when reassembling).
After removing all the plugs from the Control Module, there are still two cables left going to the hot and cold water valves, and both have connectors pointing downwards (see pic). With care disconnect these 2 connectors but put marks on them (like RED and BLU) to re-attach correctly because these two are of similar size.
With everything disconnected from the Module, remove the screw that secures the Module to the machine and lift it clear off the machine.

Step 4: Opening the Control Module

The Control Module consists of a long PCBoard, enclosed in a 2-part plastic box. This box can be easily pried open by un-clipping 3 plastic tabs along one of the sides of the box. Once the box is open, the control board can be taken out of the box by also un-clipping the retaining plastic tabs (see pics).

Step 5: Repairing the Control Board: Checking the Fuses.

For this step we need a Digital Multimeter (DMM).
There are 2 fuses on the board (see pic), one of 1.6A and the other of 4A, both type ‘T’ (slow-blow). Set the DMM to the Diode-Check range and test the fuses for continuity. Replace the faulty ones.
In the lapse of 1 year, I had to repair my board 4 times, mainly due to the fact that initially I could not find the original transistors or their exact equivalents and the replacements I fitted weren’t quite up to the job. In all cases the 1.6A fuse had blown, only in the last repair the 4A fuse had blown as well.
I replaced the original fuses with the more common 20mm type, by soldering leads to them and placing them near their original position (see pic). During the last repair I decided to mount a fuse holder as well, only for the 1.6A fuse, as there isn’t enough room in the box for the other one.

Step 6: Repairing the Control Board: Checking the Power Mosfets.

With the DMM still set to the Diode-check range, check each one of the Power Mosfets (about 12 of them) the following way: connect the probes to the small two outer pins (the center one is connected to the tab that is soldered to the board) and look for a short circuit indication (see pic). With care desolder and replace the shorted (faulty) mosfets. During my first repair I replaced four Power Mosfets, then two in the 2nd, then another two in the 3rd, and then another two in the 4th. Only two were the same transistors. Every time one of the Power Mosfets blows, also the medium power mosfet (the driver) blows and needs to be changed (see pic). But before replacing it, once removed double check with the DMM that it is shorted, just in case the short is on the diodes or somewhere else. When desoldering the Mosfets, heat up the tab first and then the pins, all in quick succession while carefully pulling with long nose pliers until freed from the board. This operation is difficult because the Mosfets are glued to the board during manufacturing and you have to crack the tiny bond before the Mosfet can be removed. Be very gentle not to damage the board as it can be easily damaged.

Step 7: Repairing the Control Board: Checking the Resistors.

Some of the power mosfets have a 100-ohm resistors across their gates. These resistors sometimes also blow up with the mosfet and go open circuit. They are close to the mosfet, usually right in front. Check all these 100-ohm resistors (marked ‘101’) the following way: after replacing the blown mosfet, connect the DMM probes across both ends of the resistor and look for a reading of about 0.100 or near. If there is no reading, the resistor is open circuit and must be changed. Take your time because if you miss a faulty one, that mosfet blows up instantly again when powering up the board.

Step 8: Repairing the Control Board: Checking the Diodes

With the DMM still set to the Diode-check range, check each one of the large Power Diodes on the other side of the board (see pic) the following way: Connect the DMM probes to each end of the diode and look for an open circuit indication (no indication) or a diode indication (an indication of somewhere between 0.4 and 0.6). Then reverse the probes and check for the opposite indication to the one before. If any of the DMM readings indicate a short, or an open in both directions, the diode is faulty; and must be replaced. Check all power diodes. I never found any of the smaller diodes faulty, but if all else fails to repair the board, you will need to check these too. On the last repair, all four diodes in the bridge configuration feeding the electro caps had blown, all cracked open, and part of the PCB track had vaporized.

Step 9: Firing It Up.

Re-assemble the Control Module and put it back in its place with the holding screw. Re-connect all the wires, paying particular attention to the 2 ground spade connectors and the mains connector. Do not re-attach the pressure sensor hose at this stage. Turn around the Control panel so that it faces the right way up and place it just lose in its place on top of the Control Box.
Now stand back and plug the mains plug in. If all is well, the control Panel should light up, ‘sing’ and settle on the last known washing cycle. Success!!!
If it fails again, you will hear a faint ‘Plop’ and you will have to start all over again because you missed one or more faulty components. Be thorough this time (it happened to me the first time because I had missed one open circuit 100-ohm resistor).
When all goes well, unplug the mains cord and, if there is no water in the machine, re-attach the pressure sensor hose and the clip.
If there is water in the machine, you will need to remove it from the machine before re-attaching the pressure sensor hose or the machine will think it is empty when in fact it is not and will overfill with more water causing a mess.

Step 10: Failure Troubleshooting.

When you first look at the board you wonder...What could be faulty here??? ...but I was so far lucky that replacing the Fuses, the Mosfets and the diodes was all I needed to get it going again, with one exception: the time it stopped because the off-balance microswitch (fitted under the Power Module, see pic) was broken and had to replace it. I found this fault by following the indication of the Fault Codes given in the manual. I bet most of the faults are due to just these parts.
If the module didn’t work the first time, check it over again. If all those Power Mosfets, Diodes, resistors and fuses are okay, the module should work because very rarely any of the other components on the board go faulty.
The water pump is now beginning to make some bearing noise, but my Fisher and Paykel is still going strong to this day.

Step 11: List of Materials

For this repair you will need:

A Philips screwdriver,
Long nose pliers,
A digital multimeter
A small soldering iron
A solder sucker

10 x 1.6A / 250V / T / 20mm fuses (slow-blow fuses) (Farnell p/n 112-3127 ) (about $10)
10 x 4A / 250V / T / 20mm fuses (slow-blow fuses) (Farnell p/n 1123135 ) (about $10)
10 x 100-ohm SMD resistors (Farnell p/n 933-5749 ) (about $5)
10 x FCD4N60 Power Mosfets (Farnell p/n 132-4776 ) (about $10)
10 x BUK98180 Medium Power Mosfets (Farnell p/n 176-9680 ) (about $10)
20 x BTY78 Avalanche Soft recovery Power Diodes (Farnell p/n 165-1070 ) (about $10)

These quantities ensure you have plenty for more than one repair, saving time as well (four in my case, and I did my last in less than an hour).

Step 12: Conclusion

The question remains…why do the Power Mosfets blow up? (the other components blow up only as a consequence). In my opinion the first event that happens puts a strain on some of the other Mosfets, which in time also fail. But why do they fail in the first place?
I am investigating this at the moment. The best explanation I can find is that under some circumstances when the machine is stopped half way through a microcontroller’s program execution (for instance when the machine is stopped with the POWER button instead of using the PAUSE button), some Mosfets are left activated out of sync and blow up. To control this situation I have now instructed ‘management’ to stop or change programs only using the PAUSE button. This has so far worked well.
<p>Help!! I have a 9 year old F&amp; P Intuitive Eco IWL 16. It went dead during a wash..any ideas..and does anyone know where to find a conttrol board if that has to be replaced. I only have 1 company in Buffalo that works on this machine and they have been a rip off both times I called..</p>
<p>Hi. My fisher/p wen t'bang' and then all the lights are out and no function at all. Could it be a blown fuse? or is it for the tip? Many thanks</p>
<p>mine just did that too and I took it apart and found a little sensor that plugged into a small water tank had come loose and flooded the controls with water. Cleaned and dried the module and am afraid to turn it on again. On this site I found that the power module can be opened up and plan to do that and be sure it is dry insode before turning on. The problem seems to be the sensor popped out of the tank (maybe a blockage causing overpressure in the tank</p>
<p>sounds like the board is blown perhaps replace the board and it should work fine again and save u the cost of a new machine </p>
<p>I agree .</p>
<p>GWL11 US Product code 96151-B.</p><p>The pump went out a couple of day ago and took out the control board. About four years ago I bought a donor machine from Craigslist for 20 bucks... it had bad bearings, But everything else was fine. I transferred the control board and the pump over to my machine. I want to add a inline fuse to the pump to prevent this from happening again. Other than the ground wire I have a brown and white wire that goes to the pump. What wire do I add the fuse to?</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>Use a meter to ground when the pump is pumping. Suspect you will find it is the brown wire. White is usually a ground for the 110 volts or whatever and green a ground for safety. Likely has a breaker built into the electronic board and a reset somewhere. If the old motor still runs oil the bearings and run alternately and see if the bearings will free up. I had an irrigation pump running after it froze up 5 years ago. Bought a new replacement planning to replace as soon as it quit again and it hasnt. New motor still in the box new.</p>
<p>Hi i am staying at a friends house and there washing fisher and <br>paykel washing machine has stopped spinning it fills with water and then<br> to amber lights on either end peep at me.</p><p>hope someone can help</p>
<p>look for a lid switch. Most washers have one that wont allow spin if lid is open. Test switch. You can just remove it and connect the two wires and it will spin without the lid being closed but might allow a kid to open while spinning (BAD if you have kids). Sounds like there may be more problems here though</p>
<p>we have a Fisher Paykel AquaSmart washer, WL37T26KW2, that is continually going out of balance. We've taken it apart and cleaned it like the troubleshooting said but are still having trouble. Any suggestions on fixing this without calling a repairman?? Thanks</p>
<p>raise the lid and look for a restraint on the tub assembly that restrains when out of balance. On other brands it may take the form of a rubber disc that is held against the top of the tub assembly by a spring mounting. many things may keep it from restraining properly. Could be loose. Could have gotten oil where it fits against the top etc</p>
<p>Hi folk,</p><p>for no apparent reason, our 6 y.o. FP WL80T65C machine came up with an &quot;error 49 - call for technician&quot; message on attempting to start a wash cycle. The machine did not produce this message the last time used. Thanks to this great site, I opened up the control panel and accessed the circuit board. I found the fuses intact - but one of the three mosfets to the pump motor burned. The track at the rear has had its coating burned, but is still intact. The rest of the circuit board is as new. I suspect the pump motor has issue - and will investigate. My grief is that a fuse of some description did not protect the circuit board, if the pump motor is at fault. </p><p>I am posting pix of the cooked components. I understand what the Mosfet is, the resistors but don't know what the &quot;E&quot; components are. I would also appreciate opinion on how to go about repairing the board. It is my intention to pull the water pump out and examine it for blockage, water ingress or a fused armature. I would fully also appreciate being advised on how to fit fuses to the water pump supply... it is my &quot;opinion&quot; at this stage that something has caused the water pump to seize - resulting in the &quot;C&quot; water pump Mosfet becoming the weakest link. Much appreciated, </p><p>frats,</p><p>Rosco</p>
<p>Oops, forgot to mention - the product number is 93220-8.</p><p>frats,</p><p>Rosco</p>
<p>Ok, a bit more on these machines. The water pump is housed in a protective filter cover - nothing big should get into the impeller housing. I am now at a total loss as to why the Mosfet blew..... and - I found that the three Mosfets drive separate phases of the pump motor. My &quot;C&quot; winding Mosfet blew. Replacement board will cost around $160 AU... I put a multi-meter across the three leads going to the pump motor - all came back at 15.8 ohms. There is no short to earth. So, can someone tell my why this Mosfet decided to &quot;blow up&quot;..? I am very hesitant to put a new board in and have it blow as soon as I power up.... If I can source the parts, I'd rather try and repair it - have it blow up again - then call for the service technician to blow how own boards up looking for the fault... </p><p>frats,</p><p>Rosco</p>
<p>Reading the comments, who woulda thunk so many problems from an electronic machine that on the face of it is brilliant. But thanks for your insightful take on the problem of a dead controller module for the GW609 - my son's one started doing something funny and in a fit of impatience he started pushing buttons in a hurry and next thing the machine went dead. I might just try your repair. Thank you again.</p>
Hi i have a fisher and paykel smart drive . My prob is it fills great washes then drains doesnt go to spin to get soap off . Then just fills again washes drains and wants to fill again before final spin ?? I have to advance it manually why ? It was fine before . Worked like fill rinse spin rinse then final spin . Now its annoying me . Its a 8 k agitator model . With eco ect . Before problem starting happening . Its was trying to do the spin rinse but couldnt get to do the stop spin and do the final rinse so i interupted it as it tryed and tryed please help ? Thanks syd aus.
<p>Dick J</p><p>Fisher Paykel GWL 11 with 420094 control board. error code 37. the diverter valve was jammed. replaced and no power to valve when drain is attempted.the power to diverter valve is interrupted by SMD that is partially under L101. I need to replace but can not identify the SMD. any help is appreciated. Is a detailed schematic available?</p>
<p>My Fisher &amp; Payakel smart drive machine keeps filling with water when wash cycle is selected and will not stop. Any suggestions?</p><p>Thanks</p><p>Ed</p>
Help! Our 10 year old machine just died. We replaced the control module, pump, and the diverter. It now is filling and draining at the same time!
<p>My GW10 is Back On The Job</p><p>My machine was very dead, the Out Of<br>Balance switch failed, and an out of balance load caused the temperature sensor<br>grommet to come loose, water splashed on the board and shorted things out. Both<br>fuses blown, 6.3 &amp; 1.6 Amp, several power MOSFETS, a low power MOSFET were<br>shorted, and one 31j diode and one 100 ohm resistor open. I installed inline<br>20MM fuse holders. I soldered in a 100 ohm resistor in lieu of the SMD. The<br>FCD4N60 were easy to find but the BUK98180 were not, I found some at Arrow<br>Electronics. I removed two good 31J diodes, tested them and found that they<br>were just regular diodes with high reverse voltage, Vr. </p><p>A test run revealed that the water<br>temp sensor grommet failed and popped out allowing water to spray around. I<br>installed a new sensor with new grommet, the grommet is not available alone.</p><p>Having the information from this<br>article was very helpful and saved me a lot of money, Thanks. </p>
<p>I have a GWL10 washer that won't power up. When I hold the power button down, three lights come on - the second (Amber color) and third lights ( green color)from the left (long wash) and the fifth light from the left (green - short wash) briefly with a beep and then go out. Any suggestions ? In 2013 I replaced the display module but I hope I don't need to shell out $180 again ! </p>
<p>On my GWL10 120V motor controller the Zener Diode D126 was broken as well as 4 power mosfets and a 100 ohm resister. I replaced the mosfets with the parts listed in this article. I assumed that the broken diode was the same as the other 1/8 W diodes, P/N 31J, which cross references to a 5.1 V zener. Is diode D126 a 5.1 v zener? There are 15V callouts printed on the board, how is 15V created?</p>
Washer has gravely particles when I wash clothes. Cleaned the drum and the agitator. Any suggestions?
<p>i have a fisher paykel that wont drain. its stops at rinse and no draining.. replaced pump and cleaned the lines and still nothing. anyone have any ideas</p>
My mom's drain was clogged by a dime. The repair man told her it was the most common problem they run into.
Question? You mentioned the water pump was making bearing noises. Interesting to me is this to do with the control panel or just hot and cold valve? Maybe i'm not making sense here. My moms washer is over 10 years old. She's called the company. Talked to Australia.It needs bearings, suspension rods too, plus the hot and cold valves need replaced. Plus the cosmetics of a new agitator and that plastic top under the lid, those are easy though.Now thats just parts. If you buy them yourself. Plus $150 per hour to have a repairman out and yes they charge more if you order your own parts. I keep telling her for a few dollars more..buy new. It's either $400 to fix or 799 to buy new, and they still make one model that works the same not a no water eco washer, i tried selling that and like to never heard the end of it. Okay mama, you want water. Get it. Anyway, what's your take? Worth the trouble of fixing or shell out for new? Thanks.
<p>Where can I get a fuse for my washer control board<br>478089USP? GWL15 , Fisher &amp; Playkel<br>Fuse for Washers &amp; Dryers OEM 479598. The company has sent me the larger fuse twice which I think belongs on the drain pump.</p>
<p>Our 15 year old GWL10 worked fine up to a few days ago when it just powered down at the beginning of a wash cycle when filling. I could get it to continue the cycle for short periods (generally 2 -3 minutes but longer some times) by unplugging the wire, waiting a few minutes and plugging it back in. The cycle would resume where it powered down for a short period then power down again. I finally advanced it to the spin cycle until it had drained completely and beeped signaling it had finished the cycle. After reading a number of the posts here, I disconnected the pump and hose but did not find any blockage. I did find water stains on the pump and floor so it had been leaking which I think I solved with silicone grease around the shaft and seal. But it's still doing the same power down thing as before. It is not giving me any codes. It had been making the infamous screeching sound that so many people talked about but I think I've corrected that by cleaning and lubricating the pump. Any help would be much appreciated.</p>
<p>I never saw a reply from nevergiveupfixingit; however, I hope (based on your username) that you were able to find the solution. FYI, in my case, I was able to fix the problem by replacing the drain pump. The following section from the Service Manual (found on-line) was helpful in making the diagnosis; I replaced the drain pump a few weeks ago, and the washer has been working fine since then.</p><p>PUMP</p><p>Because the pump is part of the switch mode power supply, it is important to first check the pump before changing a module for &quot;no power&quot;.</p><p>If the pump's thermal overload goes open circuit the power to the module will be lost, so no fault will be reported. When the thermal device has reset, the module will power up normally. This could take between 3 - 10 minutes depending on the temperature of the pump at the time of failure.</p><p>If the pump has blocked and the thermal overload has gone open circuit, just remove the blockage from the pump, the module and the pump should still be okay.</p><p>If the pump windings are water damaged, the pump will quickly overheat and cut off again. The pump must be replaced in this case. The electronics should still be okay.</p><p>It is important to check the pump windings thoroughly for water damage. It is possible for the resistance of a water damaged pump to be normal, however the inductance of the pump can change causing it to overheat and cut out.</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>I have a 14-year-old GWL10 and just yesterday started having <u>exactly</u> the same problem that you are describing. Have you had any luck diagnosing / solving the issue? Any info you have would be greatly appreciated!</p>
<p>hi can anyone help with my fisher and paykle spin light is stuck on an t keeps beeping an wont do anything eles im nearly bout to smash it</p>
<p>I have a iwl12 washing machine that keeps stopping and beeping reading' I'm not getting any cold water'but the cold water runs and is not clogged can I fix it</p>
<p>GWL15, error code 49. How to test which is bad.? water in tray when I opened the panel</p>
<p>My F-P GWL11 pump kept shutting off w/ diagnostic code 37. I checked diverter valve &amp; pump for blockages and found no problem. Ran the washer/pump thru multiple diagnostic runs and smelled burning, then all lights on but nothing happening so I unplugged machined &amp; plugged it back it but nothing....no lights, will not run.</p><p>Now I trying to determine if the pump is dead, or, is the controller module dead, or, are both the pump &amp; the controller module dead??</p><p>There's a small bump/bubble on one of the capacitors of the controller module but I see no burns on the board anywhere. (see image)</p><p>And I've checked the ohms of the pump (if I'm doing it correctly..see image) that's only showing about 3 ohms, I've read that it should be 7.5 ohms.</p>
<p>Jeff,</p><p>Please let me know how you fixed this my machine is doing the exact same thing. Smell and all! </p><p>1) I fixed the pump screeching noise last month</p><p>2) I checked the diverter value and it is free of clogs</p>
<p>Any luck? Mine has the same problem with a slight burning smell. I tried to run the diagnostic codes and now it won't turn on at all. Mines only 4 yrs old so I hate to replace it but I can't go much longer without a washing machine </p>
Hi my fisher paykel gw712 is filling with water but won't wash and if I skip to spin it will empty all water but win spin and just today I was mucking around with it and I let it fill with water and it wasn't gonna wash so I gave up and just turned the power off at the wall and it did a bit of a spin so I quickly turned the power back on and it did a wash cycle but when it drained the water would not spin so I turned it off and on at the power point again and it spun that cycle would anyone know what would be going on with it
<p>How do I remove the lid on a F&amp;P intuitive eco washing machine to get to the motor panel??</p>
<p>I have a Fisher &amp; Paykal washing machine. It works from start to finish of a wash cycle but is making a high pitch screeching sound which started only at the beginning of the was cycle but it is now doing this throughout the entire cycle. It has definitely gotten more pronounced over time so I know problem is getting worse. What would cause this? Belts? I have no idea. Thanks!</p>
<p>Can someone please help us out with the screeching??? My F&amp; P is terrible now. It was just in the beginning cycle but now is all the time.</p>
<p>That terrible sound is an easy fix. 1. Unplug the machine. 2. Get as much water out as possible (use a cup, sponges or towels) 3. Tilt the machine back and let it rest on the wall. Enough so that you have easy access to the bottom of the washer. 4. Look for the pump (it has hoses connected to it and 2 separate plug in wire points), The hoses come off easy by squeezing the spring retainer clip and the wires unplug. Just be careful to &quot;disconnect&quot; the wires and not yank them out of the connections. 5. The pump comes out by twisting it. 6. Clean the gunk out of the pump using a small brush or compressed air if available. 7. Use WD-40 or a similar lubricant and spray any moving part you can get to while spinning the little impeller (fan looking thing) especially the bushing on the end (that's where your noise is coming from) 8. Wipe off excess oil and reinstall the pump by putting it back in place and twisting it so it locks in place. 9. Plug in the 2 wires, hook up the hoses with the spring clamps in place, lower it back down, plug it in and the problem is fixed! Warning though, you will probably have to do it again in the future cause it's a common problem. I didn't have to use any tools though you made need some pliers on the clamps. If unsure how to put it back together, just take a picture of how it looks before you start. Real easy and simple. You'll feel like the Maytag man when finished!</p>
<p>First of all...thank you.I did feel the Maytag Woman! Now a new issue.It runs until the spin cycle and it drains but won't spin. I checked diverter valve &amp; pump for blockages and found no problem.Unpluged and ran again same problem now it smell like rubber burning. Please help.</p>
My F&amp;P did the same thing then one day just stopped working completely. I couldn't even get machine to start so I finally replaced it.
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNEhwy-f3dM" rel="nofollow">▶ Fisher and Paykel Washing Machine Screaching Noise Repair - YouTube</a></p><p>I FOUND IT.....</p>
<p>Mine screeches too. It's not constant though. Machine can be spinning and filling with water and be quiet, then suddenly start screeching for a while. Then it will randomly stop screeching. Can't pinpoint anything. Any ideas? Did you figure yours out?</p>
<p>Mine finally stopped working altogether. I hit the power button and it wouldn't even start so I finally replaced it.</p>
<p>Maybe you have something (like some junk) jammed in the pump thats casuing the screeching ??</p>
<p>There are no belts in a F&amp;P </p>

About This Instructable




More by rall2:How to repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine 
Add instructable to: