How to repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine

Picture of How to repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine
About 2 years ago, when after nearly 10 years of uninterrupted service our trusty Fisher and Paykel GW609 washing machine failed to start I wasn’t sure what to do. Should I buy a new one? Or should I try to repair it and in the process, save the environment of more plastic, lead, and who knows what else?
I felt that at least I should give the repair a go. But I didn’t have much time, I was under pressure by ‘management’ to get it going or get a new one…but soon!
And so I began searching the Net for schematics, technical info and anything helpful I could find. But very little was forthcoming. Only a few posts here and there but nothing substantial, the general consensus were that most of the faults are to do with the Control Module. The most useful information found was a copy of the service manual (attached) with a listing of the fault codes, but no reference to the Control Module or its schematic. It seems no one had been able to repair the Module and that this part is considered a throwaway by the manufacturer when faulty, to be replaced with a new one when it fails. This seemed like a waste of natural resources and money and so I decided to take a good look at it and check it, to see if it was really faulty and if so, could be repaired.
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Step 1: Take care!

During the repair, always double check and take a look at that plug to make sure it is off the wall before doing anything inside the machine.
Yes, here we are going to deal with possible electrocution if you are careless because the control board and peripherals are all connected to mains. So remove that plug before touching anything…and don’t forget there is water everywhere too!
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Caroline365 days ago

I have a f&p Intuitive Eco IW812 which is showing a message Fault Code9. I'm a single mum so need to be a bit frugal. Can anyone tell me what this Faul code relates to please?

Caroline365 days ago
Haysesmom14 days ago
I am no expert and my fisher paykel won't even turn on. For about a week now it has stopped at the rinse phase and beeped and I have to skip ahead to the spin to get it to work. Then yesterday it just stopped altogether. From what I understand I need to test the fuses to see if they need to be replaced, can you tell me where the fuses are? It is a GWL15
jeff.mills.3994 made it!15 days ago

My F-P GWL11 pump kept shutting off w/ diagnostic code 37. I checked diverter valve & pump for blockages and found no problem. Ran the washer/pump thru multiple diagnostic runs and smelled burning, then all lights on but nothing happening so I unplugged machined & plugged it back it but lights, will not run.

Now I trying to determine if the pump is dead, or, is the controller module dead, or, are both the pump & the controller module dead??

There's a small bump/bubble on one of the capacitors of the controller module but I see no burns on the board anywhere. (see image)

And I've checked the ohms of the pump (if I'm doing it correctly..see image) that's only showing about 3 ohms, I've read that it should be 7.5 ohms.

F-P_GWL11_capacitor.pngF-P_GWL11_water_pump.pngFisherPaykel controller module.jpg
jerH1 year ago
Here's an incredibly basic question about this washing machine that I'm hoping you can help with. I recently removed the Selni drain pump to clear a blockage, but when I reassembled and tipped the machine back down, water came leaking out through the pump assembly. Clearly the gasket is no longer sealing. I see in the service manual that when replacing the pump you should "lubricate the top section of the seal diaphragm." My question is, what should I lubricate it with? I'm hoping this is the only issue, as I really don't want to have to replace the pump assembly just to get a gasket that seals. Thanks in advance!
GeoR1 jerH19 days ago

Thick grease, if you have a choice , Silicne grease. The best choice would be the version you buy to fix up water taps with

jerH GeoR118 days ago it turned out the pump had burned itself out. Still, replacing the pump was a lot cheaper than a new washer!

mimi24 jerH1 year ago
You can use grease, but nine times out of ten the shaft is worn.
GeoR1 mimi2419 days ago


DavidM363 months ago

I have a Fisher & Paykal washing machine. It works from start to finish of a wash cycle but is making a high pitch screeching sound which started only at the beginning of the was cycle but it is now doing this throughout the entire cycle. It has definitely gotten more pronounced over time so I know problem is getting worse. What would cause this? Belts? I have no idea. Thanks!

GeoR1 DavidM3619 days ago

Maybe you have something (like some junk) jammed in the pump thats casuing the screeching ??

GeoR1 DavidM3619 days ago

There are no belts in a F&P

LouwrensF2 months ago

Hi , My Fisher&Paykel washing machine MW612, stopped working and displayed beeping sound every second. I have replaced the whole computer and just replaced the rotor position sensor , but it still does the same . The fault code does not come up in my manual. PLEASE HELP>>>Cheers..Leon

GeoR1 LouwrensF19 days ago

Try looking up the Diagnostic code ( the pattern of lights on the panel) and look up the error your machine is trying to tell you. Read on through these replies to get a better inkling of how to decipher the codes. Its probably something like a corroed micro switch for the load balancing. Hence why replacing teh control board dd nothing.

Some evidence based analysis will go a long way to identifying the root cause of your F&P problem.


GeoR119 days ago

Indestructible's = The Best !

orsijeff2 years ago
I need someone or business to fix my module. I can see that a power mosfet blew but I don't have the skills or resources available to me to try fixing it myself. The washer is a F&P GWL03. 110v US model. Motor Controller Module part# 425900P green color. I like what you guys have done with the added fuse protection, that I am capable of doing. I just need this (now obsolete) controller rebuilt. The rest of the washer is in excellent shape. What a shame to have to discard it for a lousy $10-$20 dollars of electronics. Any advise? Greatly appreciated.
GeoR1 orsijeff19 days ago

Check on EBAY for a second hand module ........ and replace !

Orktavius2 years ago
My daughter's Fisher&Paykel GWL11 is "dead in the water." I suspect that the control module is bad, as there is no power, even to light up the display board. My recommendation to her is: 1. Never buy a Fisher&Paykel appliance again, and 2. Find a new or used Whirlpool or Kenmore washer that does not have the electronics. An electro-mechanical timer, and just plain electrical controls are much easier to repair. My wife is using either a Maytag or Whirlpool washer that was given to her by an elderly couple who had purchased it in 1984, and it still works just fine. These new washers, with control modules that contain SMD's, which are diffficult to work with, are not "consumer-friendly", and most of them now do not have a conventional agitator, and do Not, in most cases, clean clothes as welll as machines with the large agitatior. So, in closing, I say that, if possible, stay away from washers that have all of these electronic (solid-state) controls. Orktavius
GeoR1 Orktavius19 days ago

F&P = Self Diagnosing - Easy to pull apart and Repair, Readily available information. Readily available (cheap) parts .

How good is that !

So your telling me the grass is greener on the other side of the paddock ?

Lots of Luck !

roboscan1 year ago
Hi I was wondering if anyone had any advice: I am trying to fix my girlfriend's mother's F&P Washing machine. It is similar to the one pictured in this Instructable, but not the same. (Don't have the model number in front of me). The motor control board is in a brown housing rather than gray if that helps.

The machine was dead... no power from mains, but if you hand-spun the agitator in side fast-enough, the LEDs would light on the control panel leading me to believe it was a problem with the power supply circuit.

Upon inspection, I found 1 dead MOSFET that is on the valve circuit as well as it's 10K OHM base resistor. I also found one shorted SMD diode which I believe is part of the rectifier circuit in the power supply, as well as a blown PCB mounted fuse before the primary of the power transformer.

I replaced all of the parts but the fuse keeps blowing immediately upon applying power.

I am thinking that it may be a shorted transformer. When I put an OHMmeter on the primary and secondary coils, I get a reading of less than 1 OHM resistance on the primary and only about 1 OHM on the secondary. These seem like extremely low resistances for a coil, no?

I would like to try to replace the transformer, but I can't make heads of tails of the specs... I am it looks like it may be a 1:1 isolation transformer... there are only 4 terminals (2 for each winding) and the numbers printed on it do not seem to correlate to anything I can find on the web.

Would anyone know if it sounds like the transformer is the likely culprit? Furthermore, would anyone know if this is, in fact, a 1:1 isolation transformer or if it steps down... Thirdly, would anyone know what specs the transformer might be (or should be) so I can try to track down a suitable replacement.

Thank you very much in advance!

GeoR1 roboscan19 days ago

Should have an electrcal resistance in the order of 20 to 40 Ohms.

kpfeif1 year ago


I have a US model GWL15 that died last week. The bearing on the drain pump motor failed, allowing water to flow through, onto the motor, causing a short. The short apparently pulled a lot of current from the motor controller board, blowing the glass fuse, a power FET, and I believe the resistor on that FETs gates. The diodes appear to fine.

I'll be adding some images tonight, however, my controller board is slightly different, and I want to make sure what I've ordered on the component side makes sense.

I've tested all FETs per the instructions, as well as the diodes. Only the one FET appears to be bad.

I believe the resistor (labeled "331", so I believe that's a 330ohm SMD resistor) on the gates of the bad FET is bad - it's not reading the expected 330 or so's like 55 ohms. When tested, would I expected resistors to be all-or-nothing (e.g., the full rated resistance, totally open, or totally short) or could they be somewhere in between (like my 55ohms)?

Thanks for your help - this has been a great resource.

GeoR1 kpfeif19 days ago

Make sure the water leakage problem is resolved before you go fixing he electronics

Goes without saying.


LizziTremayne11 months ago

Hiya, great site! I have a dinosaur, which I have replaced a water pump and a bowl on over the past 23 years (yes. I said it's a dinosaur). It's a F & P Frigidaire ECS Serial number RW51F ..

Now, for the first time today, it's not working... it's draining out, (have emptied clothes out of it), but when starts to spin, it goes about five revolutions and the motor gives up. the bowl can manually be moved and the belt is intact.

Any bright ideas please?



Yes, Pull apart the control panel, then un mount the conrls inside that area. Look for a microswitch (its about 1/2" wide by about 3/4" long electro mechanical switch with a tiny button on it) Verify that it has corrosion around the two connetcors going to it. Pull it out squirt WD40 or better still CRC-026 or even better DE-OXIT into the switch , then massage the button tll it clicks freely again. Re-assemble (after removing all signs of corrosion on connnectors, smear vaseline over the connectors of the switch). Plug in nd it should work for you - did for me .

Suggest you unplug the washing machine from power before you commence the job :)


toneo.johnson5 months ago

Hi. My fisher/p wen t'bang' and then all the lights are out and no function at all. Could it be a blown fuse? or is it for the tip? Many thanks

sounds like the board is blown perhaps replace the board and it should work fine again and save u the cost of a new machine

I agree .

LawrenceS15 months ago

my washing machine wont fill ? but goes through part of the cycle then stops with beeps, I have checked the hoses the filler at the top and the pump at the bottom all is working fine. what do I check next is a fuse blown or something

Check response for Keisa.Perry The pattern of lights on your machine are telling you whats wrong with your machine - this is the diagnostic code.


This could be as simple as an unbalanced load. If the load is unbalanced, the machine will "pause" and beep continuously. Rearrange the load to be sure the weight is evenly distributed, and press the start button again. Hopefully that is all it is for you. Good luck.

keisa.perry4 months ago
Good morning,

My washer won't do anything some of the control panel is lit up but I can't get it to come on. The model number is GWL10US the Serial number is CIN511725.

The lights (LEDS) are teling you a little story. They are telling you the error code or in English, its trying to tell you what is wrong with yoru machine. Download the Diagnostics manual foun on this website page. Then look up what the problem is.

Ther should be about 8 LEDs along the top of the machine ( the lights that normally tell you what part of teh washing cycle you are in) . use this to then match the ligts with code (example lights from left to right on machine glowing off, off, on, on, off, on etc)

Type in this coe into the find window ( use Control-F to get the find window up)

and you get the section of the manual with the code instructions.


GeoR119 days ago

This is probably the best article by far on how to fix my 1998 Fisher paykel SmartDrive 7.5 Litre washing Machine.

For the most efficient method of fixing your machine I recommend the following course of action (reading between the lines, for the least effort)

1) Down load the Diagnostics Manual. My F&P washing machine , tried to run a wash or a spin, would stat up, fe seconds, stop, repeat several times and then start blandly beeping at me. The long line of LEDs at teh to of the control panel then light up in a pattern ( off, off on, off , on etc) This is the diagnostic code for the problem your machine is having. Stuff the od electro mechanical system that you didnt have a clue what went wrong. These machines now self diagnose. How cool is that ?

To look up the diagnostic code , all I did was fdo a Ctll-F ( Find) and typed in the sequence of LED lights that were on and off. Presto - the Find takes me striaght to the diagnostic code. Turns out I had a OOB ( Out Of Balance) condition.

Now download the service manual and look up were this bit of mechanical exists in the machine. Again I did a Find in eh PDF document ( ctl-f) and OOB turns out to be just inside and under the control panel. Now thsi saved me HOURS of NOT dismantling the machine. It turned out there was a microswitch, just under the control panel module ( unscrew it and there it was (micro switch).

And gues what , corrosion every-where. Squirted some DE-OXIT (magic stuff for connectors in electronics) massaged the switch by clicking it a few times.

Pulled the connectors off the switch, scratched them clea with my pliers

and the re-assembled the micro switch into its hidey hole - with lots of Vaseline on the electrical 1/4" lug connectors.

Thank you for Indestructibles and this Author. Fixed my washing Machine in something like 1/2 Hour. The Management thinks I'm actually useful after all.....

Best damn trawl for information and resulst Ive had in a long while.

Thank you indestructible's and thank you Rall2 you GEM !


agittins2 years ago
Excellent write-up and probably the only one that goes into any detail of component-level repair that I've seen for these.

We've been having a problem with ours failing to pump out - it repeatedly attempts to pump (fires up the water pump for a few seconds, pauses and tries again). It has given a 111110 error (Pump over current) error.

I've just replaced the pump so we'll see if that solves the problem but I am still noticing another symptom which I find odd - when the machine is "off" but powered on at the GPO the main motor seems to be making chattering noises. If you open the lid and move the drum slightly it makes a "winding down" noise but then the chattering returns. Is this indicative of a pending failure, perhaps one or more of the mosfets partially on due to gate leakage or something?

I had a theory that the original pumps problem was that it was warm/hot most of the time (perhaps due to above possible leakage to the main motor, since the pump is part of the PSU), and the pump problems were worse when using hot water. Perhaps my real problem is related to the main drive... any ideas?
GeoR1 agittins19 days ago


I previously had a jammed water pump problem on my machine as well (7.5L smart Drive from 1998) . Turns out there was grit in the pump jamming the impeller. By reaching under the machine and rotating the external air fan part of the impeller , you could hear the dirt grinding. After a few twists of the impeller, it freed up. Haven't had a problem after wards for at least one year. F&P well constructed trouble free machine.

markcoby9821 days ago

Thank you rall2, your post on Fisher Paykel Washing Machines is very well done and by far the most informative post on the subject that I have found on the entire www.

Thank you for your excellent, and through hard work and for sharing it with the rest of the world.


markcoby ☮☯☺✌

markcoby9821 days ago
BrianH1123 days ago

Hi there, My Fisher & Paykel washing machine GW709 had noisy bearings on the wash tub shaft, so I replaced them and the water seal, now I try to start the machine and it won't pump water, everything is turned on, I have checked it numerous times. Pulled the top section out where the hoses are attached to check for a blockage. Can you help me please. Brian

toneo.johnson5 months ago

Hi. My fisher/p wen t'bang' and then all the lights are out and no function at all. Could it be a blown fuse? or is it for the tip? Many thanks

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