About 2 years ago, when after nearly 10 years of uninterrupted service our trusty Fisher and Paykel GW609 washing machine failed to start I wasn’t sure what to do. Should I buy a new one? Or should I try to repair it and in the process, save the environment of more plastic, lead, and who knows what else?
I felt that at least I should give the repair a go. But I didn’t have much time, I was under pressure by ‘management’ to get it going or get a new one…but soon!
And so I began searching the Net for schematics, technical info and anything helpful I could find. But very little was forthcoming. Only a few posts here and there but nothing substantial, the general consensus were that most of the faults are to do with the Control Module. The most useful information found was a copy of the service manual (attached) with a listing of the fault codes, but no reference to the Control Module or its schematic. It seems no one had been able to repair the Module and that this part is considered a throwaway by the manufacturer when faulty, to be replaced with a new one when it fails. This seemed like a waste of natural resources and money and so I decided to take a good look at it and check it, to see if it was really faulty and if so, could be repaired.

Step 1: Take care!

During the repair, always double check and take a look at that plug to make sure it is off the wall before doing anything inside the machine.
Yes, here we are going to deal with possible electrocution if you are careless because the control board and peripherals are all connected to mains. So remove that plug before touching anything…and don’t forget there is water everywhere too!
<p>hi can anyone help with my fisher and paykle spin light is stuck on an t keeps beeping an wont do anything eles im nearly bout to smash it</p>
<p>I have a iwl12 washing machine that keeps stopping and beeping reading' I'm not getting any cold water'but the cold water runs and is not clogged can I fix it</p>
<p>Our 15 year old GWL10 worked fine up to a few days ago when it just powered down at the beginning of a wash cycle when filling. I could get it to continue the cycle for short periods (generally 2 -3 minutes but longer some times) by unplugging the wire, waiting a few minutes and plugging it back in. The cycle would resume where it powered down for a short period then power down again. I finally advanced it to the spin cycle until it had drained completely and beeped signaling it had finished the cycle. After reading a number of the posts here, I disconnected the pump and hose but did not find any blockage. I did find water stains on the pump and floor so it had been leaking which I think I solved with silicone grease around the shaft and seal. But it's still doing the same power down thing as before. It is not giving me any codes. It had been making the infamous screeching sound that so many people talked about but I think I've corrected that by cleaning and lubricating the pump. Any help would be much appreciated.</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>I have a 14-year-old GWL10 and just yesterday started having <u>exactly</u> the same problem that you are describing. Have you had any luck diagnosing / solving the issue? Any info you have would be greatly appreciated!</p>
<p>GWL15, error code 49. How to test which is bad.? water in tray when I opened the panel</p>
<p>My F-P GWL11 pump kept shutting off w/ diagnostic code 37. I checked diverter valve &amp; pump for blockages and found no problem. Ran the washer/pump thru multiple diagnostic runs and smelled burning, then all lights on but nothing happening so I unplugged machined &amp; plugged it back it but nothing....no lights, will not run.</p><p>Now I trying to determine if the pump is dead, or, is the controller module dead, or, are both the pump &amp; the controller module dead??</p><p>There's a small bump/bubble on one of the capacitors of the controller module but I see no burns on the board anywhere. (see image)</p><p>And I've checked the ohms of the pump (if I'm doing it correctly..see image) that's only showing about 3 ohms, I've read that it should be 7.5 ohms.</p>
<p>Jeff,</p><p>Please let me know how you fixed this my machine is doing the exact same thing. Smell and all! </p><p>1) I fixed the pump screeching noise last month</p><p>2) I checked the diverter value and it is free of clogs</p>
<p>Any luck? Mine has the same problem with a slight burning smell. I tried to run the diagnostic codes and now it won't turn on at all. Mines only 4 yrs old so I hate to replace it but I can't go much longer without a washing machine </p>
Hi my fisher paykel gw712 is filling with water but won't wash and if I skip to spin it will empty all water but win spin and just today I was mucking around with it and I let it fill with water and it wasn't gonna wash so I gave up and just turned the power off at the wall and it did a bit of a spin so I quickly turned the power back on and it did a wash cycle but when it drained the water would not spin so I turned it off and on at the power point again and it spun that cycle would anyone know what would be going on with it
<p>How do I remove the lid on a F&amp;P intuitive eco washing machine to get to the motor panel??</p>
<p>I have a Fisher &amp; Paykal washing machine. It works from start to finish of a wash cycle but is making a high pitch screeching sound which started only at the beginning of the was cycle but it is now doing this throughout the entire cycle. It has definitely gotten more pronounced over time so I know problem is getting worse. What would cause this? Belts? I have no idea. Thanks!</p>
<p>Can someone please help us out with the screeching??? My F&amp; P is terrible now. It was just in the beginning cycle but now is all the time.</p>
<p>That terrible sound is an easy fix. 1. Unplug the machine. 2. Get as much water out as possible (use a cup, sponges or towels) 3. Tilt the machine back and let it rest on the wall. Enough so that you have easy access to the bottom of the washer. 4. Look for the pump (it has hoses connected to it and 2 separate plug in wire points), The hoses come off easy by squeezing the spring retainer clip and the wires unplug. Just be careful to &quot;disconnect&quot; the wires and not yank them out of the connections. 5. The pump comes out by twisting it. 6. Clean the gunk out of the pump using a small brush or compressed air if available. 7. Use WD-40 or a similar lubricant and spray any moving part you can get to while spinning the little impeller (fan looking thing) especially the bushing on the end (that's where your noise is coming from) 8. Wipe off excess oil and reinstall the pump by putting it back in place and twisting it so it locks in place. 9. Plug in the 2 wires, hook up the hoses with the spring clamps in place, lower it back down, plug it in and the problem is fixed! Warning though, you will probably have to do it again in the future cause it's a common problem. I didn't have to use any tools though you made need some pliers on the clamps. If unsure how to put it back together, just take a picture of how it looks before you start. Real easy and simple. You'll feel like the Maytag man when finished!</p>
<p>First of all...thank you.I did feel the Maytag Woman! Now a new issue.It runs until the spin cycle and it drains but won't spin. I checked diverter valve &amp; pump for blockages and found no problem.Unpluged and ran again same problem now it smell like rubber burning. Please help.</p>
My F&amp;P did the same thing then one day just stopped working completely. I couldn't even get machine to start so I finally replaced it.
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNEhwy-f3dM" rel="nofollow">▶ Fisher and Paykel Washing Machine Screaching Noise Repair - YouTube</a></p><p>I FOUND IT.....</p>
<p>Mine screeches too. It's not constant though. Machine can be spinning and filling with water and be quiet, then suddenly start screeching for a while. Then it will randomly stop screeching. Can't pinpoint anything. Any ideas? Did you figure yours out?</p>
<p>Mine finally stopped working altogether. I hit the power button and it wouldn't even start so I finally replaced it.</p>
<p>Maybe you have something (like some junk) jammed in the pump thats casuing the screeching ??</p>
<p>There are no belts in a F&amp;P </p>
Washingmachine fisher and paykel model mw512. Not spinning. Seek help.
<p>I am in mid-troubleshoot mode on my GW712 and have only found the 4A fuse blown and vaporized PCB tracks as well. Is this repairable or must the board be replaced? Here is an image of the tracks below.</p><p>And the story of faults in brief: After failing to drain the tub, it threw the error code 37 (Pump Blocked Error). I tried to put it into spin mode a few times to drain the water and each time it would pump for about 15-20 seconds before stopping, and after a few min would throw the code. I noticed a faint burning smell. The final time I tried this, the LEDs on the control panel flashed and then went out. The machine was dead. I removed the pump and control panel, found no blockage in the pump, so far only the failed fuse and vaporized tracks on the PCB shown below.</p>
<p>Had the exact same problems with mine. You might wanna check your pump. Mine was burnt out. I think it is from a bad seal on the pump shaft allowing water to leak on to the pump motor. This is what was causing the fuse to blow.</p>
<p>I'm about to start diagnosing my GW712 which stops at the spin cycle, it can be manually prompted to fill with water, rinse and pump out, but wont spin dry.</p><p>Replacement boards (and other parts) are available on ebay, lot cheaper than OEM or aftermarket suppliers from what I've seen.</p><p>let me know how you go.</p>
<p>How did you both get on? I seem to have the exact same issue.</p>
<p>I have a GW712 that was stopping at the spin cycle. It would just sit there pumping. So I think the pressure sensor was playing up. I took the hose off at each end end blew through it and it is working again today. Hopefully that has fixed it. </p>
<p>I have just tried to fill my F/P machine but the water is just dripping in. Cold it be the pressure of the water tank or my machine?</p>
I have a Fisher Paykel washer have replaced the control module and now it makes a beep sound and the spin light comes on no other responses I need some help
<p>Our FP washer has had Sears repairmen out here no fewer than 10 times over its lifespan, and i phoned for another service call. This time, the awful intermittent screeching--which the last repairman didn't hear when he was here--stopped, and now the tub will not drain or spin.</p><p>i see that these are common problems. That makes me feel a bit better!</p>
<p>I have a GW model washer that will not pump water out. I have replaced the pump and checked hoses and y connection for blockage, what am I missing?</p>
<p>I have a f&amp;p Intuitive Eco IW812 which is showing a message Fault Code9. I'm a single mum so need to be a bit frugal. Can anyone tell me what this Faul code relates to please?</p>
I am no expert and my fisher paykel won't even turn on. For about a week now it has stopped at the rinse phase and beeped and I have to skip ahead to the spin to get it to work. Then yesterday it just stopped altogether. From what I understand I need to test the fuses to see if they need to be replaced, can you tell me where the fuses are? It is a GWL15
Here's an incredibly basic question about this washing machine that I'm hoping you can help with. I recently removed the Selni drain pump to clear a blockage, but when I reassembled and tipped the machine back down, water came leaking out through the pump assembly. Clearly the gasket is no longer sealing. I see in the service manual that when replacing the pump you should &quot;lubricate the top section of the seal diaphragm.&quot; My question is, what should I lubricate it with? I'm hoping this is the only issue, as I really don't want to have to replace the pump assembly just to get a gasket that seals. Thanks in advance!
<p>Thick grease, if you have a choice , Silicne grease. The best choice would be the version you buy to fix up water taps with </p>
<p>Thanks...as it turned out the pump had burned itself out. Still, replacing the pump was a lot cheaper than a new washer!</p>
You can use grease, but nine times out of ten the shaft is worn.
<p>Agree </p>
<p>Hi , My Fisher&amp;Paykel washing machine MW612, stopped working and displayed beeping sound every second. I have replaced the whole computer and just replaced the rotor position sensor , but it still does the same . The fault code does not come up in my manual. PLEASE HELP&gt;&gt;&gt;Cheers..Leon</p>
<p>Try looking up the Diagnostic code ( the pattern of lights on the panel) and look up the error your machine is trying to tell you. Read on through these replies to get a better inkling of how to decipher the codes. Its probably something like a corroed micro switch for the load balancing. Hence why replacing teh control board dd nothing.</p><p>Some evidence based analysis will go a long way to identifying the root cause of your F&amp;P problem.</p><p>G </p>
<p>Indestructible's = The Best !</p>
I need someone or business to fix my module. I can see that a power mosfet blew but I don't have the skills or resources available to me to try fixing it myself. The washer is a F&amp;P GWL03. 110v US model. Motor Controller Module part# 425900P green color. I like what you guys have done with the added fuse protection, that I am capable of doing. I just need this (now obsolete) controller rebuilt. The rest of the washer is in excellent shape. What a shame to have to discard it for a lousy $10-$20 dollars of electronics. Any advise? Greatly appreciated.
<p>Check on EBAY for a second hand module ........ and replace !</p>
My daughter's Fisher&amp;Paykel GWL11 is &quot;dead in the water.&quot; I suspect that the control module is bad, as there is no power, even to light up the display board. My recommendation to her is: 1. Never buy a Fisher&amp;Paykel appliance again, and 2. Find a new or used Whirlpool or Kenmore washer that does not have the electronics. An electro-mechanical timer, and just plain electrical controls are much easier to repair. My wife is using either a Maytag or Whirlpool washer that was given to her by an elderly couple who had purchased it in 1984, and it still works just fine. These new washers, with control modules that contain SMD's, which are diffficult to work with, are not &quot;consumer-friendly&quot;, and most of them now do not have a conventional agitator, and do Not, in most cases, clean clothes as welll as machines with the large agitatior. So, in closing, I say that, if possible, stay away from washers that have all of these electronic (solid-state) controls. Orktavius
<p>F&amp;P = Self Diagnosing - Easy to pull apart and Repair, Readily available information. Readily available (cheap) parts . </p><p>How good is that ! </p><p>So your telling me the grass is greener on the other side of the paddock ? </p><p> Lots of Luck ! </p>
Hi I was wondering if anyone had any advice: I am trying to fix my girlfriend's mother's F&amp;P Washing machine. It is similar to the one pictured in this Instructable, but not the same. (Don't have the model number in front of me). The motor control board is in a brown housing rather than gray if that helps. <br> <br>The machine was dead... no power from mains, but if you hand-spun the agitator in side fast-enough, the LEDs would light on the control panel leading me to believe it was a problem with the power supply circuit. <br> <br>Upon inspection, I found 1 dead MOSFET that is on the valve circuit as well as it's 10K OHM base resistor. I also found one shorted SMD diode which I believe is part of the rectifier circuit in the power supply, as well as a blown PCB mounted fuse before the primary of the power transformer. <br> <br>I replaced all of the parts but the fuse keeps blowing immediately upon applying power. <br> <br>I am thinking that it may be a shorted transformer. When I put an OHMmeter on the primary and secondary coils, I get a reading of less than 1 OHM resistance on the primary and only about 1 OHM on the secondary. These seem like extremely low resistances for a coil, no? <br> <br>I would like to try to replace the transformer, but I can't make heads of tails of the specs... I am it looks like it may be a 1:1 isolation transformer... there are only 4 terminals (2 for each winding) and the numbers printed on it do not seem to correlate to anything I can find on the web. <br> <br>Would anyone know if it sounds like the transformer is the likely culprit? Furthermore, would anyone know if this is, in fact, a 1:1 isolation transformer or if it steps down... Thirdly, would anyone know what specs the transformer might be (or should be) so I can try to track down a suitable replacement. <br> <br>Thank you very much in advance! <br> <br>Jay
<p>Should have an electrcal resistance in the order of 20 to 40 Ohms. </p>

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