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How to repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine

Picture of How to repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine
About 2 years ago, when after nearly 10 years of uninterrupted service our trusty Fisher and Paykel GW609 washing machine failed to start I wasn’t sure what to do. Should I buy a new one? Or should I try to repair it and in the process, save the environment of more plastic, lead, and who knows what else?
I felt that at least I should give the repair a go. But I didn’t have much time, I was under pressure by ‘management’ to get it going or get a new one…but soon!
And so I began searching the Net for schematics, technical info and anything helpful I could find. But very little was forthcoming. Only a few posts here and there but nothing substantial, the general consensus were that most of the faults are to do with the Control Module. The most useful information found was a copy of the service manual (attached) with a listing of the fault codes, but no reference to the Control Module or its schematic. It seems no one had been able to repair the Module and that this part is considered a throwaway by the manufacturer when faulty, to be replaced with a new one when it fails. This seemed like a waste of natural resources and money and so I decided to take a good look at it and check it, to see if it was really faulty and if so, could be repaired.
 
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Step 1: Take care!

UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFORE OPENING THE CONTROL PANEL !
During the repair, always double check and take a look at that plug to make sure it is off the wall before doing anything inside the machine.
Yes, here we are going to deal with possible electrocution if you are careless because the control board and peripherals are all connected to mains. So remove that plug before touching anything…and don’t forget there is water everywhere too!
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jasshrie1 month ago

I am in mid-troubleshoot mode on my GW712 and have only found the 4A fuse blown and vaporized PCB tracks as well. Is this repairable or must the board be replaced? Here is an image of the tracks below.

And the story of faults in brief: After failing to drain the tub, it threw the error code 37 (Pump Blocked Error). I tried to put it into spin mode a few times to drain the water and each time it would pump for about 15-20 seconds before stopping, and after a few min would throw the code. I noticed a faint burning smell. The final time I tried this, the LEDs on the control panel flashed and then went out. The machine was dead. I removed the pump and control panel, found no blockage in the pump, so far only the failed fuse and vaporized tracks on the PCB shown below.

vaporized_PCB_Tracks.jpg

I'm about to start diagnosing my GW712 which stops at the spin cycle, it can be manually prompted to fill with water, rinse and pump out, but wont spin dry.

Replacement boards (and other parts) are available on ebay, lot cheaper than OEM or aftermarket suppliers from what I've seen.

let me know how you go.

How did you both get on? I seem to have the exact same issue.

I have a GW712 that was stopping at the spin cycle. It would just sit there pumping. So I think the pressure sensor was playing up. I took the hose off at each end end blew through it and it is working again today. Hopefully that has fixed it.

I have just tried to fill my F/P machine but the water is just dripping in. Cold it be the pressure of the water tank or my machine?

vhigg649 days ago
I have a Fisher Paykel washer have replaced the control module and now it makes a beep sound and the spin light comes on no other responses I need some help

Our FP washer has had Sears repairmen out here no fewer than 10 times over its lifespan, and i phoned for another service call. This time, the awful intermittent screeching--which the last repairman didn't hear when he was here--stopped, and now the tub will not drain or spin.

i see that these are common problems. That makes me feel a bit better!

Dayon17 days ago

I have a GW model washer that will not pump water out. I have replaced the pump and checked hoses and y connection for blockage, what am I missing?

DavidM364 months ago

I have a Fisher & Paykal washing machine. It works from start to finish of a wash cycle but is making a high pitch screeching sound which started only at the beginning of the was cycle but it is now doing this throughout the entire cycle. It has definitely gotten more pronounced over time so I know problem is getting worse. What would cause this? Belts? I have no idea. Thanks!

LeeA3 DavidM3625 days ago

Can someone please help us out with the screeching??? My F& P is terrible now. It was just in the beginning cycle but now is all the time.

That terrible sound is an easy fix. 1. Unplug the machine. 2. Get as much water out as possible (use a cup, sponges or towels) 3. Tilt the machine back and let it rest on the wall. Enough so that you have easy access to the bottom of the washer. 4. Look for the pump (it has hoses connected to it and 2 separate plug in wire points), The hoses come off easy by squeezing the spring retainer clip and the wires unplug. Just be careful to "disconnect" the wires and not yank them out of the connections. 5. The pump comes out by twisting it. 6. Clean the gunk out of the pump using a small brush or compressed air if available. 7. Use WD-40 or a similar lubricant and spray any moving part you can get to while spinning the little impeller (fan looking thing) especially the bushing on the end (that's where your noise is coming from) 8. Wipe off excess oil and reinstall the pump by putting it back in place and twisting it so it locks in place. 9. Plug in the 2 wires, hook up the hoses with the spring clamps in place, lower it back down, plug it in and the problem is fixed! Warning though, you will probably have to do it again in the future cause it's a common problem. I didn't have to use any tools though you made need some pliers on the clamps. If unsure how to put it back together, just take a picture of how it looks before you start. Real easy and simple. You'll feel like the Maytag man when finished!

DavidM36 LeeA325 days ago
My F&P did the same thing then one day just stopped working completely. I couldn't even get machine to start so I finally replaced it.
LeeA3 LeeA325 days ago

Mine screeches too. It's not constant though. Machine can be spinning and filling with water and be quiet, then suddenly start screeching for a while. Then it will randomly stop screeching. Can't pinpoint anything. Any ideas? Did you figure yours out?

Mine finally stopped working altogether. I hit the power button and it wouldn't even start so I finally replaced it.

GeoR1 DavidM361 month ago

Maybe you have something (like some junk) jammed in the pump thats casuing the screeching ??

GeoR1 DavidM361 month ago

There are no belts in a F&P

jasshrie1 month ago
Caroline361 month ago

I have a f&p Intuitive Eco IW812 which is showing a message Fault Code9. I'm a single mum so need to be a bit frugal. Can anyone tell me what this Faul code relates to please?

Caroline361 month ago
Haysesmom1 month ago
I am no expert and my fisher paykel won't even turn on. For about a week now it has stopped at the rinse phase and beeped and I have to skip ahead to the spin to get it to work. Then yesterday it just stopped altogether. From what I understand I need to test the fuses to see if they need to be replaced, can you tell me where the fuses are? It is a GWL15
jeff.mills.3994 made it!1 month ago

My F-P GWL11 pump kept shutting off w/ diagnostic code 37. I checked diverter valve & pump for blockages and found no problem. Ran the washer/pump thru multiple diagnostic runs and smelled burning, then all lights on but nothing happening so I unplugged machined & plugged it back it but nothing....no lights, will not run.

Now I trying to determine if the pump is dead, or, is the controller module dead, or, are both the pump & the controller module dead??

There's a small bump/bubble on one of the capacitors of the controller module but I see no burns on the board anywhere. (see image)

And I've checked the ohms of the pump (if I'm doing it correctly..see image) that's only showing about 3 ohms, I've read that it should be 7.5 ohms.

F-P_GWL11_capacitor.pngF-P_GWL11_water_pump.pngFisherPaykel controller module.jpg
jerH1 year ago
Here's an incredibly basic question about this washing machine that I'm hoping you can help with. I recently removed the Selni drain pump to clear a blockage, but when I reassembled and tipped the machine back down, water came leaking out through the pump assembly. Clearly the gasket is no longer sealing. I see in the service manual that when replacing the pump you should "lubricate the top section of the seal diaphragm." My question is, what should I lubricate it with? I'm hoping this is the only issue, as I really don't want to have to replace the pump assembly just to get a gasket that seals. Thanks in advance!
GeoR1 jerH1 month ago

Thick grease, if you have a choice , Silicne grease. The best choice would be the version you buy to fix up water taps with

jerH GeoR11 month ago

Thanks...as it turned out the pump had burned itself out. Still, replacing the pump was a lot cheaper than a new washer!

mimi24 jerH1 year ago
You can use grease, but nine times out of ten the shaft is worn.
GeoR1 mimi241 month ago

Agree

LouwrensF3 months ago

Hi , My Fisher&Paykel washing machine MW612, stopped working and displayed beeping sound every second. I have replaced the whole computer and just replaced the rotor position sensor , but it still does the same . The fault code does not come up in my manual. PLEASE HELP>>>Cheers..Leon

GeoR1 LouwrensF1 month ago

Try looking up the Diagnostic code ( the pattern of lights on the panel) and look up the error your machine is trying to tell you. Read on through these replies to get a better inkling of how to decipher the codes. Its probably something like a corroed micro switch for the load balancing. Hence why replacing teh control board dd nothing.

Some evidence based analysis will go a long way to identifying the root cause of your F&P problem.

G

GeoR11 month ago

Indestructible's = The Best !

orsijeff2 years ago
I need someone or business to fix my module. I can see that a power mosfet blew but I don't have the skills or resources available to me to try fixing it myself. The washer is a F&P GWL03. 110v US model. Motor Controller Module part# 425900P green color. I like what you guys have done with the added fuse protection, that I am capable of doing. I just need this (now obsolete) controller rebuilt. The rest of the washer is in excellent shape. What a shame to have to discard it for a lousy $10-$20 dollars of electronics. Any advise? Greatly appreciated.
GeoR1 orsijeff1 month ago

Check on EBAY for a second hand module ........ and replace !

Orktavius2 years ago
My daughter's Fisher&Paykel GWL11 is "dead in the water." I suspect that the control module is bad, as there is no power, even to light up the display board. My recommendation to her is: 1. Never buy a Fisher&Paykel appliance again, and 2. Find a new or used Whirlpool or Kenmore washer that does not have the electronics. An electro-mechanical timer, and just plain electrical controls are much easier to repair. My wife is using either a Maytag or Whirlpool washer that was given to her by an elderly couple who had purchased it in 1984, and it still works just fine. These new washers, with control modules that contain SMD's, which are diffficult to work with, are not "consumer-friendly", and most of them now do not have a conventional agitator, and do Not, in most cases, clean clothes as welll as machines with the large agitatior. So, in closing, I say that, if possible, stay away from washers that have all of these electronic (solid-state) controls. Orktavius
GeoR1 Orktavius1 month ago

F&P = Self Diagnosing - Easy to pull apart and Repair, Readily available information. Readily available (cheap) parts .

How good is that !

So your telling me the grass is greener on the other side of the paddock ?

Lots of Luck !

roboscan1 year ago
Hi I was wondering if anyone had any advice: I am trying to fix my girlfriend's mother's F&P Washing machine. It is similar to the one pictured in this Instructable, but not the same. (Don't have the model number in front of me). The motor control board is in a brown housing rather than gray if that helps.

The machine was dead... no power from mains, but if you hand-spun the agitator in side fast-enough, the LEDs would light on the control panel leading me to believe it was a problem with the power supply circuit.

Upon inspection, I found 1 dead MOSFET that is on the valve circuit as well as it's 10K OHM base resistor. I also found one shorted SMD diode which I believe is part of the rectifier circuit in the power supply, as well as a blown PCB mounted fuse before the primary of the power transformer.

I replaced all of the parts but the fuse keeps blowing immediately upon applying power.

I am thinking that it may be a shorted transformer. When I put an OHMmeter on the primary and secondary coils, I get a reading of less than 1 OHM resistance on the primary and only about 1 OHM on the secondary. These seem like extremely low resistances for a coil, no?

I would like to try to replace the transformer, but I can't make heads of tails of the specs... I am it looks like it may be a 1:1 isolation transformer... there are only 4 terminals (2 for each winding) and the numbers printed on it do not seem to correlate to anything I can find on the web.

Would anyone know if it sounds like the transformer is the likely culprit? Furthermore, would anyone know if this is, in fact, a 1:1 isolation transformer or if it steps down... Thirdly, would anyone know what specs the transformer might be (or should be) so I can try to track down a suitable replacement.

Thank you very much in advance!

Jay
GeoR1 roboscan1 month ago

Should have an electrcal resistance in the order of 20 to 40 Ohms.

kpfeif1 year ago

Hi.

I have a US model GWL15 that died last week. The bearing on the drain pump motor failed, allowing water to flow through, onto the motor, causing a short. The short apparently pulled a lot of current from the motor controller board, blowing the glass fuse, a power FET, and I believe the resistor on that FETs gates. The diodes appear to fine.

I'll be adding some images tonight, however, my controller board is slightly different, and I want to make sure what I've ordered on the component side makes sense.

I've tested all FETs per the instructions, as well as the diodes. Only the one FET appears to be bad.

I believe the resistor (labeled "331", so I believe that's a 330ohm SMD resistor) on the gates of the bad FET is bad - it's not reading the expected 330 or so ohms...it's like 55 ohms. When tested, would I expected resistors to be all-or-nothing (e.g., the full rated resistance, totally open, or totally short) or could they be somewhere in between (like my 55ohms)?

Thanks for your help - this has been a great resource.

GeoR1 kpfeif1 month ago

Make sure the water leakage problem is resolved before you go fixing he electronics

Goes without saying.

G

Hiya, great site! I have a dinosaur, which I have replaced a water pump and a bowl on over the past 23 years (yes. I said it's a dinosaur). It's a F & P Frigidaire ECS Serial number RW51F ..

Now, for the first time today, it's not working... it's draining out, (have emptied clothes out of it), but when starts to spin, it goes about five revolutions and the motor gives up. the bowl can manually be moved and the belt is intact.

Any bright ideas please?

Thanks,

Liz

Yes, Pull apart the control panel, then un mount the conrls inside that area. Look for a microswitch (its about 1/2" wide by about 3/4" long electro mechanical switch with a tiny button on it) Verify that it has corrosion around the two connetcors going to it. Pull it out squirt WD40 or better still CRC-026 or even better DE-OXIT into the switch , then massage the button tll it clicks freely again. Re-assemble (after removing all signs of corrosion on connnectors, smear vaseline over the connectors of the switch). Plug in nd it should work for you - did for me .

Suggest you unplug the washing machine from power before you commence the job :)

G

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