Instructables

How to repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine

Picture of How to repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine
About 2 years ago, when after nearly 10 years of uninterrupted service our trusty Fisher and Paykel GW609 washing machine failed to start I wasn’t sure what to do. Should I buy a new one? Or should I try to repair it and in the process, save the environment of more plastic, lead, and who knows what else?
I felt that at least I should give the repair a go. But I didn’t have much time, I was under pressure by ‘management’ to get it going or get a new one…but soon!
And so I began searching the Net for schematics, technical info and anything helpful I could find. But very little was forthcoming. Only a few posts here and there but nothing substantial, the general consensus were that most of the faults are to do with the Control Module. The most useful information found was a copy of the service manual (attached) with a listing of the fault codes, but no reference to the Control Module or its schematic. It seems no one had been able to repair the Module and that this part is considered a throwaway by the manufacturer when faulty, to be replaced with a new one when it fails. This seemed like a waste of natural resources and money and so I decided to take a good look at it and check it, to see if it was really faulty and if so, could be repaired.
 
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Step 1: Take care!

UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFORE OPENING THE CONTROL PANEL !
During the repair, always double check and take a look at that plug to make sure it is off the wall before doing anything inside the machine.
Yes, here we are going to deal with possible electrocution if you are careless because the control board and peripherals are all connected to mains. So remove that plug before touching anything…and don’t forget there is water everywhere too!
keisa.perry25 days ago
Good morning,

My washer won't do anything some of the control panel is lit up but I can't get it to come on. The model number is GWL10US the Serial number is CIN511725.
LawrenceS11 month ago

my washing machine wont fill ? but goes through part of the cycle then stops with beeps, I have checked the hoses the filler at the top and the pump at the bottom all is working fine. what do I check next is a fuse blown or something

This could be as simple as an unbalanced load. If the load is unbalanced, the machine will "pause" and beep continuously. Rearrange the load to be sure the weight is evenly distributed, and press the start button again. Hopefully that is all it is for you. Good luck.

Hi. My fisher/p wen t'bang' and then all the lights are out and no function at all. Could it be a blown fuse? or is it for the tip? Many thanks

sounds like the board is blown perhaps replace the board and it should work fine again and save u the cost of a new machine

Hi. My fisher/p wen t'bang' and then all the lights are out and no function at all. Could it be a blown fuse? or is it for the tip? Many thanks

LizziTremayne7 months ago

Hiya, great site! I have a dinosaur, which I have replaced a water pump and a bowl on over the past 23 years (yes. I said it's a dinosaur). It's a F & P Frigidaire ECS Serial number RW51F ..

Now, for the first time today, it's not working... it's draining out, (have emptied clothes out of it), but when starts to spin, it goes about five revolutions and the motor gives up. the bowl can manually be moved and the belt is intact.

Any bright ideas please?

Thanks,

Liz

kpfeif9 months ago

Hi.

I have a US model GWL15 that died last week. The bearing on the drain pump motor failed, allowing water to flow through, onto the motor, causing a short. The short apparently pulled a lot of current from the motor controller board, blowing the glass fuse, a power FET, and I believe the resistor on that FETs gates. The diodes appear to fine.

I'll be adding some images tonight, however, my controller board is slightly different, and I want to make sure what I've ordered on the component side makes sense.

I've tested all FETs per the instructions, as well as the diodes. Only the one FET appears to be bad.

I believe the resistor (labeled "331", so I believe that's a 330ohm SMD resistor) on the gates of the bad FET is bad - it's not reading the expected 330 or so ohms...it's like 55 ohms. When tested, would I expected resistors to be all-or-nothing (e.g., the full rated resistance, totally open, or totally short) or could they be somewhere in between (like my 55ohms)?

Thanks for your help - this has been a great resource.

jerH11 months ago
Here's an incredibly basic question about this washing machine that I'm hoping you can help with. I recently removed the Selni drain pump to clear a blockage, but when I reassembled and tipped the machine back down, water came leaking out through the pump assembly. Clearly the gasket is no longer sealing. I see in the service manual that when replacing the pump you should "lubricate the top section of the seal diaphragm." My question is, what should I lubricate it with? I'm hoping this is the only issue, as I really don't want to have to replace the pump assembly just to get a gasket that seals. Thanks in advance!
mimi24 jerH11 months ago
You can use grease, but nine times out of ten the shaft is worn.
gremlin21 year ago
Great item. As an X w mechanic Please tell the budding washing machine mechanics that while its wise to remove the electrical plug, to prevent floods, to turn of the taps and water as well. The boards in some cases (probably all) are connected to a water supply to test the temperature and will create problem I would say....
roboscan1 year ago
Hi I was wondering if anyone had any advice: I am trying to fix my girlfriend's mother's F&P Washing machine. It is similar to the one pictured in this Instructable, but not the same. (Don't have the model number in front of me). The motor control board is in a brown housing rather than gray if that helps.

The machine was dead... no power from mains, but if you hand-spun the agitator in side fast-enough, the LEDs would light on the control panel leading me to believe it was a problem with the power supply circuit.

Upon inspection, I found 1 dead MOSFET that is on the valve circuit as well as it's 10K OHM base resistor. I also found one shorted SMD diode which I believe is part of the rectifier circuit in the power supply, as well as a blown PCB mounted fuse before the primary of the power transformer.

I replaced all of the parts but the fuse keeps blowing immediately upon applying power.

I am thinking that it may be a shorted transformer. When I put an OHMmeter on the primary and secondary coils, I get a reading of less than 1 OHM resistance on the primary and only about 1 OHM on the secondary. These seem like extremely low resistances for a coil, no?

I would like to try to replace the transformer, but I can't make heads of tails of the specs... I am it looks like it may be a 1:1 isolation transformer... there are only 4 terminals (2 for each winding) and the numbers printed on it do not seem to correlate to anything I can find on the web.

Would anyone know if it sounds like the transformer is the likely culprit? Furthermore, would anyone know if this is, in fact, a 1:1 isolation transformer or if it steps down... Thirdly, would anyone know what specs the transformer might be (or should be) so I can try to track down a suitable replacement.

Thank you very much in advance!

Jay
Great tear down here. by any chance to do have a parts list for the electronics?
brdstf401 year ago
fantastic write up! I have one of these washers, but haven't had any problems. Kinda wishing something happens, so I can tear it apart!!! If you ever take apart a Fisher&Paykel dishwasher, let us know, that, I'm always having problems with!
Orktavius1 year ago
My daughter's Fisher&Paykel GWL11 is "dead in the water." I suspect that the control module is bad, as there is no power, even to light up the display board. My recommendation to her is: 1. Never buy a Fisher&Paykel appliance again, and 2. Find a new or used Whirlpool or Kenmore washer that does not have the electronics. An electro-mechanical timer, and just plain electrical controls are much easier to repair. My wife is using either a Maytag or Whirlpool washer that was given to her by an elderly couple who had purchased it in 1984, and it still works just fine. These new washers, with control modules that contain SMD's, which are diffficult to work with, are not "consumer-friendly", and most of them now do not have a conventional agitator, and do Not, in most cases, clean clothes as welll as machines with the large agitatior. So, in closing, I say that, if possible, stay away from washers that have all of these electronic (solid-state) controls. Orktavius
brights1 year ago
Great write up. My machine an LW509AU which I bought in Annerley Brisbane 1999 and shipped to Thailand in 2004, finally stopped midway through the final rinse cycle and would not restart. It had taken a lot of wear and tear , overloading by the wife, and at times dirty scruddy water without complaint for well over ten years.

It was still had soggy washing and some water in the outer bowl so I tipped it up and removed the drain hose to drain the water, dried it out and checked for pump block. No power. Checked for power from the mains input, no problem with the mains.

So I stripped it apart and removed the inner bowl to reveal the outer bowl and upside of the pump. The inner bowl drain holes were encrusted with a thick coat of hardened mud and lime sediment which was blocking the little pin holes of the inner bowl. Water blasted the outer bowl. Cleaned 14 years of hardened conditioner scum from the rest of the plastic parts, scraping and blasting it clean. I tested the pump which showed 34 ohms resistance, cleaned it all inside and out. Plugged it in and it was still dead as.

So I got back to check the motor controller PCB and found the 1.6v slow blow fuse blown. A transistor with cover partly blown off close to one of the ones in your photos in the post, half the components codes missing. I checked it over with a DMM and found another transistor component was open circuit, I suspect it to be one going to the pump but I am not au fait with PCBs.
Your photo shows a 1A30AC FCD 4N60.

My PCB has a short circuit on:
G4RC10U
I*R 9908
4C 2K

The one with partly missing code has code: LL33
I R and the other part of code has blown off, but I am not sure how to test it and it is not open circuit. This is where you put a WO3 A 918010 me thinks.

I have looked online and cannot match any of my codes to any parts, and I can't yet find the original replacement parts (farnell etc.) here in Thailand.

I wish I could understand the components codes but need a little help.

Then I could get the parts here and get Thai electronics guy to do the soldering and maybe in my dreams I could practice a little on some old circuit boards and then try an do it myself.

I will try and put a photo of the circuit board up a little later.

Thanks.
agittins1 year ago
Excellent write-up and probably the only one that goes into any detail of component-level repair that I've seen for these.

We've been having a problem with ours failing to pump out - it repeatedly attempts to pump (fires up the water pump for a few seconds, pauses and tries again). It has given a 111110 error (Pump over current) error.

I've just replaced the pump so we'll see if that solves the problem but I am still noticing another symptom which I find odd - when the machine is "off" but powered on at the GPO the main motor seems to be making chattering noises. If you open the lid and move the drum slightly it makes a "winding down" noise but then the chattering returns. Is this indicative of a pending failure, perhaps one or more of the mosfets partially on due to gate leakage or something?

I had a theory that the original pumps problem was that it was warm/hot most of the time (perhaps due to above possible leakage to the main motor, since the pump is part of the PSU), and the pump problems were worse when using hot water. Perhaps my real problem is related to the main drive... any ideas?
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schuylem1 year ago
Terrific posting. My F-P dishwasher has a problem of a similar sort, and I have taken it apart to try to clean up the control board. Mine is flaky, not completely failed. I thought it might be due to salt buildup on the surface, so I cleaned it up. It continues to be flaky, but at least I tried.
Excellent & detailed advice Rall2,
But I have a F&P GW601 (Phase 2) with no 15V on M/C Bd No shorts and has worked randomly, I checked caps around IC U503 &U504 all seem OK, I have Isolation Transformer & cro but no operation of 15V supply.
Can you Help Please
mine has a fault, the second lite and the second last lite just flash and beeps. do you think this problem would be what yous are talking about.
orsijeff2 years ago
I need someone or business to fix my module. I can see that a power mosfet blew but I don't have the skills or resources available to me to try fixing it myself. The washer is a F&P GWL03. 110v US model. Motor Controller Module part# 425900P green color. I like what you guys have done with the added fuse protection, that I am capable of doing. I just need this (now obsolete) controller rebuilt. The rest of the washer is in excellent shape. What a shame to have to discard it for a lousy $10-$20 dollars of electronics. Any advise? Greatly appreciated.
Thanks Rall2, I following your instructions and managed to fix my
5.5kg Fisher and Paykel Top-loader. Your instructions were spot on.
I had 2 blown power FETs, 1 Medium control FET, 2 Fuses and 2 Diodes.
I replaced the FET's and diodes and managed to drill some holes in the PCB and mount a M205 PCB mounted fuse holders, for these I had to cut out a small section of the plastic casing near the 240v input to allow the PCB to seat back in the casing.
I also installed a 1.5A slow blow fuse inline for the pump motor as the FETs which had blown on my board were for the pump.

In regards to why they blow, I work in a electronics retails store and have a lot
of customers who have used these fisher and paykel motors to make wind generators. I have learned a lot from them over the years so here is my theory.

The pump FET's may blow due to a blockage in the pump/ worn bears or just a worn motor which will all cause excessive current draw and damage the FET's which will take out the components before the FET's.

In regards to the motor controller, The tolerance between the fixed stators and the rotating magnets on the motor a quite close, I have actually
pulled one of these motors out before and the bearing and shaft had a small amount of pitting and corrosion. That unit was around 6 years old.

My guest is either a damaged motor winding or the bearing may start to wear and cause the motor to go slightly off balance, this could cause the rotating magnet to rub or temporally get caught against the outside of the stator. If this happen during an off balance spin cycle it may not be enough to trigger the off balance micro-switch but enough the cause the magnet to get caught on the stator and cause a high current surge which spikes the FET and BAM!!!!.

My solution is to install a fuse on each of the 3 stator wires and one on the pump.

Thanks Again Buddy.
rall2 (author)  LiquidSilver2 years ago
I'm glad it worked for you too. All comments are welcome as they can greatly help other people saving their machines from the tip (and the environment!!!). These machines are very well made, and they should last a lifetime, save for a few dollars worth of components. I pulled apart the my motor and checked the windings, shaft and bearings: they are all as new, and no play at all and no leak. Tested the cables also. I have now installed 240VAC (TNR 15G471K) Metal Oxide Varistors (MOV) across each motor winding for protecting the FETs, and they seem to be holding okay (so far). In regard to the causes, I've recently found out that in some parts of Sydney the mains voltage can surge to over 270VAC on sunny days, due to the many solar power installations around the area, at precisely the time most washing is made. As the machine works well with voltages down to 200VAC, a reducing transformer could be the answer. Power is rather low, so its cost is not unduly high, considering the long term protection. Another cause could be electric welders, used in or nearby the house. These can produce very high spikes, particularly the cheap Asian-made ones, that are known to blow unprotected electronic devices, like DVD players, TVs, (washing machines?), etc. As I use one and after replacing 2 DVD players and the aircon, all faulty for no apparent reason, I now disconnect all devices prior welding, including the aircon.
pfaber2 years ago
This is great. Very detailed. Nice Job!