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How to repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine

Picture of How to repair a Fisher Paykel Washing Machine
About 2 years ago, when after nearly 10 years of uninterrupted service our trusty Fisher and Paykel GW609 washing machine failed to start I wasn’t sure what to do. Should I buy a new one? Or should I try to repair it and in the process, save the environment of more plastic, lead, and who knows what else?
I felt that at least I should give the repair a go. But I didn’t have much time, I was under pressure by ‘management’ to get it going or get a new one…but soon!
And so I began searching the Net for schematics, technical info and anything helpful I could find. But very little was forthcoming. Only a few posts here and there but nothing substantial, the general consensus were that most of the faults are to do with the Control Module. The most useful information found was a copy of the service manual (attached) with a listing of the fault codes, but no reference to the Control Module or its schematic. It seems no one had been able to repair the Module and that this part is considered a throwaway by the manufacturer when faulty, to be replaced with a new one when it fails. This seemed like a waste of natural resources and money and so I decided to take a good look at it and check it, to see if it was really faulty and if so, could be repaired.
 
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Step 1: Take care!

UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFORE OPENING THE CONTROL PANEL !
During the repair, always double check and take a look at that plug to make sure it is off the wall before doing anything inside the machine.
Yes, here we are going to deal with possible electrocution if you are careless because the control board and peripherals are all connected to mains. So remove that plug before touching anything…and don’t forget there is water everywhere too!

Step 2: Opening the Control Panel

Picture of Opening the Control Panel
Opening Control Panel.JPG
Make sure the plug is off the wall. It is convenient if the washing machine is empty of water and washing because the water level sensor will not be affected when it is disconnected, and latter on re-attached, during the repair.
Remove the 2 screws at the back of the Control Panel (see pic), and lift the Panel off the machine from the back rotating towards the front (see pic). You will see the Control Module (a long bluish plastic box with many cables and plugs) still attached to the machine. The Control Panel is connected to the Control Module by a cable with a plug. Disconnect this plug from the module and put the Control Panel aside in a safe place.
NOTE: all of the sockets in the Control Module have small plastic latches that secure the plugs to the sockets; you have to carefully unlatch the plugs to unplug them (see pic).

Step 3: Removing the Control Module.

Picture of Removing the Control Module.
Removing the plugs.JPG
Removing the Water Valves Plugs.JPG
At this point, if you have a Digital Camera handy, take one or two photos of the whole thing and keep it for reference later on, when re-attaching everything back.
First, with great care remove the pressure sensor hose from the Pressure Sensor by first removing the spring clip towards the hose and pushing the edge of the hose away from the sensor (see pic). Do not pull from the hose as this will grab the sensor’s plastic pipe and possibly break it! Take care, as the hose will most probably be stuck to the sensor by years of close contact.
Next, unplug the spade connectors on the top-left corner noting their positions. This is very important because they are the mains and the ground connections and these must go back to the exact same locations.
Now remove all the plugs from the Module (they are all of different sizes so there is no need to put marks on them for when reassembling).
After removing all the plugs from the Control Module, there are still two cables left going to the hot and cold water valves, and both have connectors pointing downwards (see pic). With care disconnect these 2 connectors but put marks on them (like RED and BLU) to re-attach correctly because these two are of similar size.
With everything disconnected from the Module, remove the screw that secures the Module to the machine and lift it clear off the machine.

Step 4: Opening the Control Module

Picture of Opening the Control Module
Removing the Control Board.JPG
The Control Board.JPG
The Control Module consists of a long PCBoard, enclosed in a 2-part plastic box. This box can be easily pried open by un-clipping 3 plastic tabs along one of the sides of the box. Once the box is open, the control board can be taken out of the box by also un-clipping the retaining plastic tabs (see pics).

Step 5: Repairing the Control Board: checking the fuses.

Picture of Repairing the Control Board: checking the fuses.
For this step we need a Digital Multimeter (DMM).
There are 2 fuses on the board (see pic), one of 1.6A and the other of 4A, both type ‘T’ (slow-blow). Set the DMM to the Diode-Check range and test the fuses for continuity. Replace the faulty ones.
In the lapse of 1 year, I had to repair my board 4 times, mainly due to the fact that initially I could not find the original transistors or their exact equivalents and the replacements I fitted weren’t quite up to the job. In all cases the 1.6A fuse had blown, only in the last repair the 4A fuse had blown as well.
I replaced the original fuses with the more common 20mm type, by soldering leads to them and placing them near their original position (see pic). During the last repair I decided to mount a fuse holder as well, only for the 1.6A fuse, as there isn’t enough room in the box for the other one.

Step 6: Repairing the Control Board: checking the Power Mosfets.

Picture of Repairing the Control Board: checking the Power Mosfets.
The Medium Power Mosfet.JPG
With the DMM still set to the Diode-check range, check each one of the Power Mosfets (about 12 of them) the following way: connect the probes to the small two outer pins (the center one is connected to the tab that is soldered to the board) and look for a short circuit indication (see pic). With care desolder and replace the shorted (faulty) mosfets. During my first repair I replaced four Power Mosfets, then two in the 2nd, then another two in the 3rd, and then another two in the 4th. Only two were the same transistors. Every time one of the Power Mosfets blows, also the medium power mosfet (the driver) blows and needs to be changed (see pic). But before replacing it, once removed double check with the DMM that it is shorted, just in case the short is on the diodes or somewhere else. When desoldering the Mosfets, heat up the tab first and then the pins, all in quick succession while carefully pulling with long nose pliers until freed from the board. This operation is difficult because the Mosfets are glued to the board during manufacturing and you have to crack the tiny bond before the Mosfet can be removed. Be very gentle not to damage the board as it can be easily damaged.

Step 7: Repairing the Control Board: checking the Resistors.

Picture of Repairing the Control Board: checking the Resistors.
Some of the power mosfets have a 100-ohm resistors across their gates. These resistors sometimes also blow up with the mosfet and go open circuit. They are close to the mosfet, usually right in front. Check all these 100-ohm resistors (marked ‘101’) the following way: after replacing the blown mosfet, connect the DMM probes across both ends of the resistor and look for a reading of about 0.100 or near. If there is no reading, the resistor is open circuit and must be changed. Take your time because if you miss a faulty one, that mosfet blows up instantly again when powering up the board.

Step 8: Repairing the Control Board: checking the Diodes

Picture of Repairing the Control Board: checking the Diodes
With the DMM still set to the Diode-check range, check each one of the large Power Diodes on the other side of the board (see pic) the following way: Connect the DMM probes to each end of the diode and look for an open circuit indication (no indication) or a diode indication (an indication of somewhere between 0.4 and 0.6). Then reverse the probes and check for the opposite indication to the one before. If any of the DMM readings indicate a short, or an open in both directions, the diode is faulty; and must be replaced. Check all power diodes. I never found any of the smaller diodes faulty, but if all else fails to repair the board, you will need to check these too. On the last repair, all four diodes in the bridge configuration feeding the electro caps had blown, all cracked open, and part of the PCB track had vaporized.

Step 9: Firing it up.

Picture of Firing it up.
Re-assemble the Control Module and put it back in its place with the holding screw. Re-connect all the wires, paying particular attention to the 2 ground spade connectors and the mains connector. Do not re-attach the pressure sensor hose at this stage. Turn around the Control panel so that it faces the right way up and place it just lose in its place on top of the Control Box.
Now stand back and plug the mains plug in. If all is well, the control Panel should light up, ‘sing’ and settle on the last known washing cycle. Success!!!
If it fails again, you will hear a faint ‘Plop’ and you will have to start all over again because you missed one or more faulty components. Be thorough this time (it happened to me the first time because I had missed one open circuit 100-ohm resistor).
When all goes well, unplug the mains cord and, if there is no water in the machine, re-attach the pressure sensor hose and the clip.
If there is water in the machine, you will need to remove it from the machine before re-attaching the pressure sensor hose or the machine will think it is empty when in fact it is not and will overfill with more water causing a mess.

Step 10: Failure troubleshooting.

Picture of Failure troubleshooting.
When you first look at the board you wonder...What could be faulty here??? ...but I was so far lucky that replacing the Fuses, the Mosfets and the diodes was all I needed to get it going again, with one exception: the time it stopped because the off-balance microswitch (fitted under the Power Module, see pic) was broken and had to replace it. I found this fault by following the indication of the Fault Codes given in the manual. I bet most of the faults are due to just these parts.
If the module didn’t work the first time, check it over again. If all those Power Mosfets, Diodes, resistors and fuses are okay, the module should work because very rarely any of the other components on the board go faulty.
The water pump is now beginning to make some bearing noise, but my Fisher and Paykel is still going strong to this day.

Step 11: List of Materials

For this repair you will need:

TOOLS
A Philips screwdriver,
Long nose pliers,
A digital multimeter
A small soldering iron
A solder sucker

PARTS
10 x 1.6A / 250V / T / 20mm fuses (slow-blow fuses) (Farnell p/n 112-3127 ) (about $10)
10 x 4A / 250V / T / 20mm fuses (slow-blow fuses) (Farnell p/n 1123135 ) (about $10)
10 x 100-ohm SMD resistors (Farnell p/n 933-5749 ) (about $5)
10 x FCD4N60 Power Mosfets (Farnell p/n 132-4776 ) (about $10)
10 x BUK98180 Medium Power Mosfets (Farnell p/n 176-9680 ) (about $10)
20 x BTY78 Avalanche Soft recovery Power Diodes (Farnell p/n 165-1070 ) (about $10)

These quantities ensure you have plenty for more than one repair, saving time as well (four in my case, and I did my last in less than an hour).

Step 12: Conclusion

The question remains…why do the Power Mosfets blow up? (the other components blow up only as a consequence). In my opinion the first event that happens puts a strain on some of the other Mosfets, which in time also fail. But why do they fail in the first place?
I am investigating this at the moment. The best explanation I can find is that under some circumstances when the machine is stopped half way through a microcontroller’s program execution (for instance when the machine is stopped with the POWER button instead of using the PAUSE button), some Mosfets are left activated out of sync and blow up. To control this situation I have now instructed ‘management’ to stop or change programs only using the PAUSE button. This has so far worked well.
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Our 15 year old GWL10 worked fine up to a few days ago when it just powered down at the beginning of a wash cycle when filling. I could get it to continue the cycle for short periods (generally 2 -3 minutes but longer some times) by unplugging the wire, waiting a few minutes and plugging it back in. The cycle would resume where it powered down for a short period then power down again. I finally advanced it to the spin cycle until it had drained completely and beeped signaling it had finished the cycle. After reading a number of the posts here, I disconnected the pump and hose but did not find any blockage. I did find water stains on the pump and floor so it had been leaking which I think I solved with silicone grease around the shaft and seal. But it's still doing the same power down thing as before. It is not giving me any codes. It had been making the infamous screeching sound that so many people talked about but I think I've corrected that by cleaning and lubricating the pump. Any help would be much appreciated.

jeff.mills.3994 made it!4 months ago

My F-P GWL11 pump kept shutting off w/ diagnostic code 37. I checked diverter valve & pump for blockages and found no problem. Ran the washer/pump thru multiple diagnostic runs and smelled burning, then all lights on but nothing happening so I unplugged machined & plugged it back it but nothing....no lights, will not run.

Now I trying to determine if the pump is dead, or, is the controller module dead, or, are both the pump & the controller module dead??

There's a small bump/bubble on one of the capacitors of the controller module but I see no burns on the board anywhere. (see image)

And I've checked the ohms of the pump (if I'm doing it correctly..see image) that's only showing about 3 ohms, I've read that it should be 7.5 ohms.

F-P_GWL11_capacitor.pngF-P_GWL11_water_pump.pngFisherPaykel controller module.jpg

Jeff,

Please let me know how you fixed this my machine is doing the exact same thing. Smell and all!

1) I fixed the pump screeching noise last month

2) I checked the diverter value and it is free of clogs

Any luck? Mine has the same problem with a slight burning smell. I tried to run the diagnostic codes and now it won't turn on at all. Mines only 4 yrs old so I hate to replace it but I can't go much longer without a washing machine

Kenny1604861 month ago
Hi my fisher paykel gw712 is filling with water but won't wash and if I skip to spin it will empty all water but win spin and just today I was mucking around with it and I let it fill with water and it wasn't gonna wash so I gave up and just turned the power off at the wall and it did a bit of a spin so I quickly turned the power back on and it did a wash cycle but when it drained the water would not spin so I turned it off and on at the power point again and it spun that cycle would anyone know what would be going on with it
FaleM1 month ago

How do I remove the lid on a F&P intuitive eco washing machine to get to the motor panel??

DavidM367 months ago

I have a Fisher & Paykal washing machine. It works from start to finish of a wash cycle but is making a high pitch screeching sound which started only at the beginning of the was cycle but it is now doing this throughout the entire cycle. It has definitely gotten more pronounced over time so I know problem is getting worse. What would cause this? Belts? I have no idea. Thanks!

LeeA3 DavidM363 months ago

Can someone please help us out with the screeching??? My F& P is terrible now. It was just in the beginning cycle but now is all the time.

That terrible sound is an easy fix. 1. Unplug the machine. 2. Get as much water out as possible (use a cup, sponges or towels) 3. Tilt the machine back and let it rest on the wall. Enough so that you have easy access to the bottom of the washer. 4. Look for the pump (it has hoses connected to it and 2 separate plug in wire points), The hoses come off easy by squeezing the spring retainer clip and the wires unplug. Just be careful to "disconnect" the wires and not yank them out of the connections. 5. The pump comes out by twisting it. 6. Clean the gunk out of the pump using a small brush or compressed air if available. 7. Use WD-40 or a similar lubricant and spray any moving part you can get to while spinning the little impeller (fan looking thing) especially the bushing on the end (that's where your noise is coming from) 8. Wipe off excess oil and reinstall the pump by putting it back in place and twisting it so it locks in place. 9. Plug in the 2 wires, hook up the hoses with the spring clamps in place, lower it back down, plug it in and the problem is fixed! Warning though, you will probably have to do it again in the future cause it's a common problem. I didn't have to use any tools though you made need some pliers on the clamps. If unsure how to put it back together, just take a picture of how it looks before you start. Real easy and simple. You'll feel like the Maytag man when finished!

First of all...thank you.I did feel the Maytag Woman! Now a new issue.It runs until the spin cycle and it drains but won't spin. I checked diverter valve & pump for blockages and found no problem.Unpluged and ran again same problem now it smell like rubber burning. Please help.

DavidM36 LeeA33 months ago
My F&P did the same thing then one day just stopped working completely. I couldn't even get machine to start so I finally replaced it.
LeeA3 LeeA33 months ago
annewolf DavidM363 months ago

Mine screeches too. It's not constant though. Machine can be spinning and filling with water and be quiet, then suddenly start screeching for a while. Then it will randomly stop screeching. Can't pinpoint anything. Any ideas? Did you figure yours out?

DavidM36 annewolf3 months ago

Mine finally stopped working altogether. I hit the power button and it wouldn't even start so I finally replaced it.

GeoR1 DavidM364 months ago

Maybe you have something (like some junk) jammed in the pump thats casuing the screeching ??

GeoR1 DavidM364 months ago

There are no belts in a F&P

kaygaz1 month ago

FISHER PAYKEL IW712 - WONT PUMP OUT WATER AND ALSO MY SCREEN IS UNREADABLE CAN SOMEONE HELP ME

SakeasiS2 months ago
Washingmachine fisher and paykel model mw512. Not spinning. Seek help.
jasshrie4 months ago

I am in mid-troubleshoot mode on my GW712 and have only found the 4A fuse blown and vaporized PCB tracks as well. Is this repairable or must the board be replaced? Here is an image of the tracks below.

And the story of faults in brief: After failing to drain the tub, it threw the error code 37 (Pump Blocked Error). I tried to put it into spin mode a few times to drain the water and each time it would pump for about 15-20 seconds before stopping, and after a few min would throw the code. I noticed a faint burning smell. The final time I tried this, the LEDs on the control panel flashed and then went out. The machine was dead. I removed the pump and control panel, found no blockage in the pump, so far only the failed fuse and vaporized tracks on the PCB shown below.

vaporized_PCB_Tracks.jpg
PatA2 jasshrie2 months ago

Had the exact same problems with mine. You might wanna check your pump. Mine was burnt out. I think it is from a bad seal on the pump shaft allowing water to leak on to the pump motor. This is what was causing the fuse to blow.

I'm about to start diagnosing my GW712 which stops at the spin cycle, it can be manually prompted to fill with water, rinse and pump out, but wont spin dry.

Replacement boards (and other parts) are available on ebay, lot cheaper than OEM or aftermarket suppliers from what I've seen.

let me know how you go.

How did you both get on? I seem to have the exact same issue.

joelions joelions2 months ago

I have a GW712 that was stopping at the spin cycle. It would just sit there pumping. So I think the pressure sensor was playing up. I took the hose off at each end end blew through it and it is working again today. Hopefully that has fixed it.

vera.tetaite3 months ago

I have just tried to fill my F/P machine but the water is just dripping in. Cold it be the pressure of the water tank or my machine?

vhigg643 months ago
I have a Fisher Paykel washer have replaced the control module and now it makes a beep sound and the spin light comes on no other responses I need some help
dorothy0929493 months ago

Our FP washer has had Sears repairmen out here no fewer than 10 times over its lifespan, and i phoned for another service call. This time, the awful intermittent screeching--which the last repairman didn't hear when he was here--stopped, and now the tub will not drain or spin.

i see that these are common problems. That makes me feel a bit better!

Dayon3 months ago

I have a GW model washer that will not pump water out. I have replaced the pump and checked hoses and y connection for blockage, what am I missing?

jasshrie4 months ago
Caroline364 months ago

I have a f&p Intuitive Eco IW812 which is showing a message Fault Code9. I'm a single mum so need to be a bit frugal. Can anyone tell me what this Faul code relates to please?

Caroline364 months ago
Haysesmom4 months ago
I am no expert and my fisher paykel won't even turn on. For about a week now it has stopped at the rinse phase and beeped and I have to skip ahead to the spin to get it to work. Then yesterday it just stopped altogether. From what I understand I need to test the fuses to see if they need to be replaced, can you tell me where the fuses are? It is a GWL15
jerH1 year ago
Here's an incredibly basic question about this washing machine that I'm hoping you can help with. I recently removed the Selni drain pump to clear a blockage, but when I reassembled and tipped the machine back down, water came leaking out through the pump assembly. Clearly the gasket is no longer sealing. I see in the service manual that when replacing the pump you should "lubricate the top section of the seal diaphragm." My question is, what should I lubricate it with? I'm hoping this is the only issue, as I really don't want to have to replace the pump assembly just to get a gasket that seals. Thanks in advance!
GeoR1 jerH4 months ago

Thick grease, if you have a choice , Silicne grease. The best choice would be the version you buy to fix up water taps with

jerH GeoR14 months ago

Thanks...as it turned out the pump had burned itself out. Still, replacing the pump was a lot cheaper than a new washer!

mimi24 jerH1 year ago
You can use grease, but nine times out of ten the shaft is worn.
GeoR1 mimi244 months ago

Agree

LouwrensF6 months ago

Hi , My Fisher&Paykel washing machine MW612, stopped working and displayed beeping sound every second. I have replaced the whole computer and just replaced the rotor position sensor , but it still does the same . The fault code does not come up in my manual. PLEASE HELP>>>Cheers..Leon

GeoR1 LouwrensF4 months ago

Try looking up the Diagnostic code ( the pattern of lights on the panel) and look up the error your machine is trying to tell you. Read on through these replies to get a better inkling of how to decipher the codes. Its probably something like a corroed micro switch for the load balancing. Hence why replacing teh control board dd nothing.

Some evidence based analysis will go a long way to identifying the root cause of your F&P problem.

G

GeoR14 months ago

Indestructible's = The Best !

orsijeff3 years ago
I need someone or business to fix my module. I can see that a power mosfet blew but I don't have the skills or resources available to me to try fixing it myself. The washer is a F&P GWL03. 110v US model. Motor Controller Module part# 425900P green color. I like what you guys have done with the added fuse protection, that I am capable of doing. I just need this (now obsolete) controller rebuilt. The rest of the washer is in excellent shape. What a shame to have to discard it for a lousy $10-$20 dollars of electronics. Any advise? Greatly appreciated.
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