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Step 11: List of Materials

For this repair you will need:

TOOLS
A Philips screwdriver,
Long nose pliers,
A digital multimeter
A small soldering iron
A solder sucker

PARTS
10 x 1.6A / 250V / T / 20mm fuses (slow-blow fuses) (Farnell p/n 112-3127 ) (about $10)
10 x 4A / 250V / T / 20mm fuses (slow-blow fuses) (Farnell p/n 1123135 ) (about $10)
10 x 100-ohm SMD resistors (Farnell p/n 933-5749 ) (about $5)
10 x FCD4N60 Power Mosfets (Farnell p/n 132-4776 ) (about $10)
10 x BUK98180 Medium Power Mosfets (Farnell p/n 176-9680 ) (about $10)
20 x BTY78 Avalanche Soft recovery Power Diodes (Farnell p/n 165-1070 ) (about $10)

These quantities ensure you have plenty for more than one repair, saving time as well (four in my case, and I did my last in less than an hour).

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<p>Hi i am staying at a friends house and there washing fisher and <br>paykel washing machine has stopped spinning it fills with water and then<br> to amber lights on either end peep at me.</p><p>hope someone can help</p>
<p>My Fisher &amp; Payakel smart drive machine keeps filling with water when wash cycle is selected and will not stop. Any suggestions?</p><p>Thanks</p><p>Ed</p>
Help! Our 10 year old machine just died. We replaced the control module, pump, and the diverter. It now is filling and draining at the same time!
<p>My GW10 is Back On The Job</p><p>My machine was very dead, the Out Of<br>Balance switch failed, and an out of balance load caused the temperature sensor<br>grommet to come loose, water splashed on the board and shorted things out. Both<br>fuses blown, 6.3 &amp; 1.6 Amp, several power MOSFETS, a low power MOSFET were<br>shorted, and one 31j diode and one 100 ohm resistor open. I installed inline<br>20MM fuse holders. I soldered in a 100 ohm resistor in lieu of the SMD. The<br>FCD4N60 were easy to find but the BUK98180 were not, I found some at Arrow<br>Electronics. I removed two good 31J diodes, tested them and found that they<br>were just regular diodes with high reverse voltage, Vr. </p><p>A test run revealed that the water<br>temp sensor grommet failed and popped out allowing water to spray around. I<br>installed a new sensor with new grommet, the grommet is not available alone.</p><p>Having the information from this<br>article was very helpful and saved me a lot of money, Thanks. </p>
<p>I have a GWL10 washer that won't power up. When I hold the power button down, three lights come on - the second (Amber color) and third lights ( green color)from the left (long wash) and the fifth light from the left (green - short wash) briefly with a beep and then go out. Any suggestions ? In 2013 I replaced the display module but I hope I don't need to shell out $180 again ! </p>
<p>On my GWL10 120V motor controller the Zener Diode D126 was broken as well as 4 power mosfets and a 100 ohm resister. I replaced the mosfets with the parts listed in this article. I assumed that the broken diode was the same as the other 1/8 W diodes, P/N 31J, which cross references to a 5.1 V zener. Is diode D126 a 5.1 v zener? There are 15V callouts printed on the board, how is 15V created?</p>
Washer has gravely particles when I wash clothes. Cleaned the drum and the agitator. Any suggestions?
<p>i have a fisher paykel that wont drain. its stops at rinse and no draining.. replaced pump and cleaned the lines and still nothing. anyone have any ideas</p>
My mom's drain was clogged by a dime. The repair man told her it was the most common problem they run into.
<p>we have a Fisher Paykel AquaSmart washer, WL37T26KW2, that is continually going out of balance. We've taken it apart and cleaned it like the troubleshooting said but are still having trouble. Any suggestions on fixing this without calling a repairman?? Thanks</p>
Question? You mentioned the water pump was making bearing noises. Interesting to me is this to do with the control panel or just hot and cold valve? Maybe i'm not making sense here. My moms washer is over 10 years old. She's called the company. Talked to Australia.It needs bearings, suspension rods too, plus the hot and cold valves need replaced. Plus the cosmetics of a new agitator and that plastic top under the lid, those are easy though.Now thats just parts. If you buy them yourself. Plus $150 per hour to have a repairman out and yes they charge more if you order your own parts. I keep telling her for a few dollars more..buy new. It's either $400 to fix or 799 to buy new, and they still make one model that works the same not a no water eco washer, i tried selling that and like to never heard the end of it. Okay mama, you want water. Get it. Anyway, what's your take? Worth the trouble of fixing or shell out for new? Thanks.
<p>Where can I get a fuse for my washer control board<br>478089USP? GWL15 , Fisher &amp; Playkel<br>Fuse for Washers &amp; Dryers OEM 479598. The company has sent me the larger fuse twice which I think belongs on the drain pump.</p>
<p>Our 15 year old GWL10 worked fine up to a few days ago when it just powered down at the beginning of a wash cycle when filling. I could get it to continue the cycle for short periods (generally 2 -3 minutes but longer some times) by unplugging the wire, waiting a few minutes and plugging it back in. The cycle would resume where it powered down for a short period then power down again. I finally advanced it to the spin cycle until it had drained completely and beeped signaling it had finished the cycle. After reading a number of the posts here, I disconnected the pump and hose but did not find any blockage. I did find water stains on the pump and floor so it had been leaking which I think I solved with silicone grease around the shaft and seal. But it's still doing the same power down thing as before. It is not giving me any codes. It had been making the infamous screeching sound that so many people talked about but I think I've corrected that by cleaning and lubricating the pump. Any help would be much appreciated.</p>
<p>I never saw a reply from nevergiveupfixingit; however, I hope (based on your username) that you were able to find the solution. FYI, in my case, I was able to fix the problem by replacing the drain pump. The following section from the Service Manual (found on-line) was helpful in making the diagnosis; I replaced the drain pump a few weeks ago, and the washer has been working fine since then.</p><p>PUMP</p><p>Because the pump is part of the switch mode power supply, it is important to first check the pump before changing a module for &quot;no power&quot;.</p><p>If the pump's thermal overload goes open circuit the power to the module will be lost, so no fault will be reported. When the thermal device has reset, the module will power up normally. This could take between 3 - 10 minutes depending on the temperature of the pump at the time of failure.</p><p>If the pump has blocked and the thermal overload has gone open circuit, just remove the blockage from the pump, the module and the pump should still be okay.</p><p>If the pump windings are water damaged, the pump will quickly overheat and cut off again. The pump must be replaced in this case. The electronics should still be okay.</p><p>It is important to check the pump windings thoroughly for water damage. It is possible for the resistance of a water damaged pump to be normal, however the inductance of the pump can change causing it to overheat and cut out.</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>I have a 14-year-old GWL10 and just yesterday started having <u>exactly</u> the same problem that you are describing. Have you had any luck diagnosing / solving the issue? Any info you have would be greatly appreciated!</p>
<p>hi can anyone help with my fisher and paykle spin light is stuck on an t keeps beeping an wont do anything eles im nearly bout to smash it</p>
<p>I have a iwl12 washing machine that keeps stopping and beeping reading' I'm not getting any cold water'but the cold water runs and is not clogged can I fix it</p>
<p>GWL15, error code 49. How to test which is bad.? water in tray when I opened the panel</p>
<p>My F-P GWL11 pump kept shutting off w/ diagnostic code 37. I checked diverter valve &amp; pump for blockages and found no problem. Ran the washer/pump thru multiple diagnostic runs and smelled burning, then all lights on but nothing happening so I unplugged machined &amp; plugged it back it but nothing....no lights, will not run.</p><p>Now I trying to determine if the pump is dead, or, is the controller module dead, or, are both the pump &amp; the controller module dead??</p><p>There's a small bump/bubble on one of the capacitors of the controller module but I see no burns on the board anywhere. (see image)</p><p>And I've checked the ohms of the pump (if I'm doing it correctly..see image) that's only showing about 3 ohms, I've read that it should be 7.5 ohms.</p>
<p>Jeff,</p><p>Please let me know how you fixed this my machine is doing the exact same thing. Smell and all! </p><p>1) I fixed the pump screeching noise last month</p><p>2) I checked the diverter value and it is free of clogs</p>
<p>Any luck? Mine has the same problem with a slight burning smell. I tried to run the diagnostic codes and now it won't turn on at all. Mines only 4 yrs old so I hate to replace it but I can't go much longer without a washing machine </p>
Hi my fisher paykel gw712 is filling with water but won't wash and if I skip to spin it will empty all water but win spin and just today I was mucking around with it and I let it fill with water and it wasn't gonna wash so I gave up and just turned the power off at the wall and it did a bit of a spin so I quickly turned the power back on and it did a wash cycle but when it drained the water would not spin so I turned it off and on at the power point again and it spun that cycle would anyone know what would be going on with it
<p>How do I remove the lid on a F&amp;P intuitive eco washing machine to get to the motor panel??</p>
<p>I have a Fisher &amp; Paykal washing machine. It works from start to finish of a wash cycle but is making a high pitch screeching sound which started only at the beginning of the was cycle but it is now doing this throughout the entire cycle. It has definitely gotten more pronounced over time so I know problem is getting worse. What would cause this? Belts? I have no idea. Thanks!</p>
<p>Can someone please help us out with the screeching??? My F&amp; P is terrible now. It was just in the beginning cycle but now is all the time.</p>
<p>That terrible sound is an easy fix. 1. Unplug the machine. 2. Get as much water out as possible (use a cup, sponges or towels) 3. Tilt the machine back and let it rest on the wall. Enough so that you have easy access to the bottom of the washer. 4. Look for the pump (it has hoses connected to it and 2 separate plug in wire points), The hoses come off easy by squeezing the spring retainer clip and the wires unplug. Just be careful to &quot;disconnect&quot; the wires and not yank them out of the connections. 5. The pump comes out by twisting it. 6. Clean the gunk out of the pump using a small brush or compressed air if available. 7. Use WD-40 or a similar lubricant and spray any moving part you can get to while spinning the little impeller (fan looking thing) especially the bushing on the end (that's where your noise is coming from) 8. Wipe off excess oil and reinstall the pump by putting it back in place and twisting it so it locks in place. 9. Plug in the 2 wires, hook up the hoses with the spring clamps in place, lower it back down, plug it in and the problem is fixed! Warning though, you will probably have to do it again in the future cause it's a common problem. I didn't have to use any tools though you made need some pliers on the clamps. If unsure how to put it back together, just take a picture of how it looks before you start. Real easy and simple. You'll feel like the Maytag man when finished!</p>
<p>First of all...thank you.I did feel the Maytag Woman! Now a new issue.It runs until the spin cycle and it drains but won't spin. I checked diverter valve &amp; pump for blockages and found no problem.Unpluged and ran again same problem now it smell like rubber burning. Please help.</p>
My F&amp;P did the same thing then one day just stopped working completely. I couldn't even get machine to start so I finally replaced it.
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNEhwy-f3dM" rel="nofollow">▶ Fisher and Paykel Washing Machine Screaching Noise Repair - YouTube</a></p><p>I FOUND IT.....</p>
<p>Mine screeches too. It's not constant though. Machine can be spinning and filling with water and be quiet, then suddenly start screeching for a while. Then it will randomly stop screeching. Can't pinpoint anything. Any ideas? Did you figure yours out?</p>
<p>Mine finally stopped working altogether. I hit the power button and it wouldn't even start so I finally replaced it.</p>
<p>Maybe you have something (like some junk) jammed in the pump thats casuing the screeching ??</p>
<p>There are no belts in a F&amp;P </p>
<p>FISHER PAYKEL IW712 - WONT PUMP OUT WATER AND ALSO MY SCREEN IS UNREADABLE CAN SOMEONE HELP ME</p>
Washingmachine fisher and paykel model mw512. Not spinning. Seek help.
<p>I am in mid-troubleshoot mode on my GW712 and have only found the 4A fuse blown and vaporized PCB tracks as well. Is this repairable or must the board be replaced? Here is an image of the tracks below.</p><p>And the story of faults in brief: After failing to drain the tub, it threw the error code 37 (Pump Blocked Error). I tried to put it into spin mode a few times to drain the water and each time it would pump for about 15-20 seconds before stopping, and after a few min would throw the code. I noticed a faint burning smell. The final time I tried this, the LEDs on the control panel flashed and then went out. The machine was dead. I removed the pump and control panel, found no blockage in the pump, so far only the failed fuse and vaporized tracks on the PCB shown below.</p>
<p>Had the exact same problems with mine. You might wanna check your pump. Mine was burnt out. I think it is from a bad seal on the pump shaft allowing water to leak on to the pump motor. This is what was causing the fuse to blow.</p>
<p>I'm about to start diagnosing my GW712 which stops at the spin cycle, it can be manually prompted to fill with water, rinse and pump out, but wont spin dry.</p><p>Replacement boards (and other parts) are available on ebay, lot cheaper than OEM or aftermarket suppliers from what I've seen.</p><p>let me know how you go.</p>
<p>How did you both get on? I seem to have the exact same issue.</p>
<p>I have a GW712 that was stopping at the spin cycle. It would just sit there pumping. So I think the pressure sensor was playing up. I took the hose off at each end end blew through it and it is working again today. Hopefully that has fixed it. </p>
<p>I have just tried to fill my F/P machine but the water is just dripping in. Cold it be the pressure of the water tank or my machine?</p>
I have a Fisher Paykel washer have replaced the control module and now it makes a beep sound and the spin light comes on no other responses I need some help
<p>Our FP washer has had Sears repairmen out here no fewer than 10 times over its lifespan, and i phoned for another service call. This time, the awful intermittent screeching--which the last repairman didn't hear when he was here--stopped, and now the tub will not drain or spin.</p><p>i see that these are common problems. That makes me feel a bit better!</p>
<p>I have a GW model washer that will not pump water out. I have replaced the pump and checked hoses and y connection for blockage, what am I missing?</p>
<p>I have a f&amp;p Intuitive Eco IW812 which is showing a message Fault Code9. I'm a single mum so need to be a bit frugal. Can anyone tell me what this Faul code relates to please?</p>
I am no expert and my fisher paykel won't even turn on. For about a week now it has stopped at the rinse phase and beeped and I have to skip ahead to the spin to get it to work. Then yesterday it just stopped altogether. From what I understand I need to test the fuses to see if they need to be replaced, can you tell me where the fuses are? It is a GWL15
Here's an incredibly basic question about this washing machine that I'm hoping you can help with. I recently removed the Selni drain pump to clear a blockage, but when I reassembled and tipped the machine back down, water came leaking out through the pump assembly. Clearly the gasket is no longer sealing. I see in the service manual that when replacing the pump you should &quot;lubricate the top section of the seal diaphragm.&quot; My question is, what should I lubricate it with? I'm hoping this is the only issue, as I really don't want to have to replace the pump assembly just to get a gasket that seals. Thanks in advance!

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