How to repair an Xbox Remote Control - Decoupling Capacitor Fix

This instructable is written in response to having a broken Xbox Remote Control.

The symptoms are that the remote seems to fire OK. When i point the remote at a  TV receiver just for test purposes, I can see a red LED flashing on the receiver set but when pointing the remote towards the Xbox receiver there is no response to any button presses.

So a while ago i dismantled the remote and connected the Infrared output to a Oscilloscope. The signal coming
from the scope was a particularly noisy pulse train so i suspected the decoupling was poor on the PCB.

The addition of a small surface mount capacitor close to the power pin where the battery voltage is supplied to the IC
cures the problem. You can salvage the capacitor from an old phone OR USB stick as per my example.

You can see the supplement capacitor in the photo below. It is stood vertically of the Power pin of the IC. The additional green wire is connected to 0V (Ground) on the PCB.

I think the real problem lies with the poor choice of decoupling capacitors. The Xbox remote control has only
an Electrolytic which is prone to leaking and also not positioned close enough to the IC due to the mechanical nature of the assembly being a single sided PCB.

So here are my steps for fixing the remote OR you can watch on youtube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKqQZv4i4x0

Note, this fix may well work for other remote controls which have poor decoupling OR leaky capacitors.

Step 1: Open the Xbox Remote - Identify IC and Check Electrolytic Quality

You will need a screwdriver and penknife to open the remote control plastic assembly.

There are two places either side of the remote to insert the screwdriver blade. (See photos).

Once you have clicked open the the plastic either side you will need a pen knife to work
along each side of the plastic to release and split apart the plastic assembly.

With the Assembly open its a good time to check the IC number. I hope this is the only IC that the  Xbox
people made but you can check it here. The IC chip number should be the same apart from manufacturing
batch codes and date stamps. Again see photo where IC is under the magnifying glass.

Now is also a good time to check the state of Electrolytic Capacitor (Value - 47uF 25V). Check for gunge/liquid
substance running out the bottom. around the component legs. My capacitor had failed but i actually left it in
and just added the supplementary capacitor. The photo with a screwdriver blade pointing to a capacitor shows you which one it it is.

You could replace the Electrolytic Capacitor but its most likely to fail again. The surface mount capacitor fix we are going to add has no leakage problems.