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I am the father of 2 young kids, henceforth known as "Monkey Boy" and "Disaster Girl." As they break stuff around the house, I try to fix it. 

This is how I fixed my bathroom door.  

One day, Monkey Boy decided to swing with his full weight, hanging from the door handle of the bathroom door.  Not surprisingly, the screws holding the hinge to the 30-year old bathroom door decided that they'd had enough, and gave up.  The screws pulled out of the door and the holes were permanently stripped.  

Like most ordinary folks, we enjoy privacy during bathroom time, so I needed to fix it.

I had tried the toothpick and glue method shown here in the past on another door in the house when something similar happened involving a gaggle of giggling teenagers.  It did not work well for me, so I decided to try a more robust method.  

I'll be drilling out the stripped holes and gluing in dowels to fill the holes.

Step 1: What you'll need:

You'll need:

A drill
A wooden dowel (I used a 4ft long 3/8" poplar dowel - $0.84 at a local store)
A saw of some kind if you need to cut your dowel
A 3/8" drill bit (I used a Forstner bit)
Wood glue
Shop brush
A smaller drill bit (to drill new pilot holes after you've patched the old holes)
A screwdriver

The dowel I bought was 48" long, so I cut off three pieces that were around 1.5" long.  I didn't measure, and used a little hand coping saw to cut them to size.  I had some 80 grit sandpaper nearby so I used that to smooth and square off the rough looking cuts I made.  
Master stroke! Perfect by the book instructable!
Thanks! :)
<p>Thank you for this idea. My 3 year old took the bottom hinge pin out of his bedroom door and when we opened it the hinge screws got pulled out. I'll be picking up the supplies and trying this tomorrow. Thanks again!</p>
<p>Thanks, I used this inscrutable and it worked great! <em> I even thought of a small improvement</em>. </p><p><strong>Instead<br> of Wood Glue, I used &quot;JB Weld KwikWood&quot;. It cures in 1 hour.</strong> It <br>winds up being harder than pine, but softer than oak. No problem drilling or sanding the stuff.</p><p>I got the KwikWood at Home Depot (Scotty's, Lowe's, or Ace would probably have it) for $5.77. The package of KwikWood is enough to do 2 or 3 doors.</p><p>I used 3/4&quot;<br> dowells thinking it would add extra support. I didn't realize until <br>later that I didn't have a 3/4&quot; drill bit and had to go get one - most <br>bit kits only go up to 1/2&quot;. The grey stuff in the photos is the KwikWood.</p>
<p>Yes, using a length of dowel is the best method. In fact the dowel method and wood glue is stronger than the original hole. Most doors are made of pine which is soft and does not hold screws well or for long. Particle board is used in hollow core doors and its holding ability is limited too. After drilling a hole to accommodate the dowel and applying glue to both the hole and the dowel use another dowel of a larger diameter to &quot;set&quot; the smaller dowel into the hole. This method puts the top of the dowel flush with the surface of the hinge mortise. I use oak dowels apposed to pine. Oak being an open grain wood and a hard wood, tends to hold threads better. If you have a centering hinge drill use the hinge as a template and the finish repair will be better than new and last for years. Another hint is to use a long screw in one of the holes in the top most hinge long enough to penetrate the stud. After time the weight of the door will pull on the hinge and cause the door not to hang straight. This long screw transfers more holding power to the stud and puts less stress on the jamb itself. </p>
<p>I'd be interested in seeing your modifications that you recommended. Would you be willing to do an instructable to demonstrate? It sounds like you have some very nice improvements.</p>
<p>I ended up using slightly wider and longer screws to fix my door. I just drilled the hole a bit deeper. The guy at Home Depot kept telling me to use this technique but I found it much simple to use my method. Not sure if I am missing something. I'm sure this method works as well but just seems over-complicated. </p>
<p>Just using thicker/longer screws is indeed easier... if you can! I've had the same hinge strip 3x and now there are no larger screws that can fit... I'll be trying the dowel method in the near future!</p>
<p>That usually worked fine on the door frame but most doors are hollow core so the longer screw does not work</p>
Thank you for the pictures. They are reassuring. I have a very heavy 1930's bathroom door that I have tried all the tricks to fix and it keeps pulling the screws out of the top hinge. This last time it even pulled out the screws from the bottom hinge at the frame. My last ditch effort is to try this fix with the dowels. Thank you again for all your time to show this process.
<p>Worked perfectly! I used gorilla glue with outstanding results. Great step by step guide here and only cost a few bucks to fix. Thanks!</p>
<p>Just finished this, worked great! I used Bosch self-starting spade bits for drilling the holes... not sure if normal drill bits would have been better because I ran into something about 1/2&quot; into the wood that diverted me to one side. Made for some annoyance when fitting the dowels but they're fine. I figure if more assurance is needed, a super small hole can be drilled diagonally into the larger hole for tacking in a pinning nail to hold the dowel. Anyway, thanks a lot for this.</p>
This worked great, thank you!
<p>Haven't tried it yet but I need to repair the heavy interior garage door leading into the house. My hinge holes got worn out and tried the old 'golf tee' trick and that was a joke. Lasted about a week. This is a heavy composite door to keep the heat from the garage out of the house. Got fed up and just took the door off the hinges until I could either do it myself or find someone to do it. Going to try this method and see what happens.</p>
<p>Hey Thanks for posting!! What a great Idea! I have two doors that I need to fix (because I have 2 small kids that like to do the same thing to does). </p>
<p>I have to admit I was skeptical when I read this....I was convinced that as soon as I started screwing in new screws, the dowels were going to pop in and I would be out of luck. But I did give it a try, and am happy to report that it worked like a charm! I did hold off and let it dry for more than 24 hours, as suggested, so would recommend anyone else doing it to also be patient. Thanks for saving me from having to buy a new door!</p>
<p>Thanks for these instructions, worked like a charm. The whole door frame needs to be replaced for now I have a bathroom door that closes! </p>
wonderful idea I'll remember this in years to come when my doors fall off I caught my 4yo swinging in her door handle th other day and I remember doing the same thing when I was young so it gonna happen lol I'm guessing the same can be done on the door frame side of things, when I last took my doors off to paint I'm sure there were a few screws that went in but didn't tighten up
I've seen my kids swinging on more doors since then. I'm surprised I haven't had to fix more doors yet! :)
Great Ible, One suggestion though, rather than trying to hold the door up, or have someone else try to hold it. Hardware stores sell packs of wood shims for dirt cheap just for this purpose.
Good suggestion! I actually propped the door up with a book. :)
this is a great ible, a brilliant idea! but may I ask why wouldn't you use some longer screws? <br>it seems to me that they would hold longer and don't strip so easily.
You're right, longer screws would be good. This is a hollow core door and the wood along the edge of the door is not very thick anyway. But you're right, the screws that I took out of the door are pretty short.
<p>I just used this technique for a door and one of the things that I added was a 3&quot; piece of 1x1 that was cut off flat on one end that I used to tap the dowels flush. Other than that, I followed your instructions and it worked great. <br>Also, I went to the hardware store and the screws I used were #10 x 1.5&quot; brass screws. <br><br>This hinge is VERY solid now. Well done my friend. </p>
Great! I'm glad to hear this was helpful. My door is still holding strong. Great suggestion on the 1x1 scrap to tap in the dowels!
<p>I just did this and it was super easy. <br>Way to go! Perfect intractable.....</p><p>Our house was built in 1913 and there are a TON of hinged windows......I can see more of this in my future! </p><p>YOU ROCK!</p>
<p>You rock. This is a great idea. I'm all over it!</p>
People usually make a fuss over gluing wood cross grain. I'm also not usually a fan of putting fasteners into end grain myself. But your method seems sound enough to me.
Nicely done. Great illustration of this technique that works in lots of situations.
Nice idea. I've used cheapo chopsticks left over from chinese take out with good results.
Nice work.
I have used toothpicks with poor results, various rock hard fillers with mixed results, will have to try this. Thanks for sharing.
Wooden golf tees fit in most striped door hinge holes without having to drill them out bigger.
Yeah -I do the same with wooden matches.

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