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Step 7Oh my aching butt!
Since my canoe has cheap plastic seats I wanted some cushioning. I use a piece of closed cell foam (like a camping mattress) and wear a pair of padded cycling shorts. I have looked at gel paddling seat cushions and may still get one from fleabay someday, but not so far.
When braking (dragging both oars to stop quickly) the outriggers will rise up and pop the oar out of the oarlock socket, to fix this I bought two small pip pins and drilled holes to match through the hinge pin and outrigger hinge, this keeps the arms down and still allows a quick pin pull to allow the outrigger to be stowed for docking and car topping.
The LAST thing you want to happen, is to loose an oarlock overboard! I secure mine with small caribiner clips through the hole in the bottom of the oarlock in the pictures. Since then I have been using small bungee cords to do the same thing. There is a much more elegant way of securing them, it involves a short chain and a "toggle made of a wire loop, someday I will duplicate this and post the pictures.
The picture is of my dads canoe, my wife is paddling bow position, and mostly this picture shows how out of the way my first install is when not rowing. Due to the stiffness of the gate hinge bushings they don't tend to flop around, they still point toward the bottom when the canoe is turned over. Once they do wear in so that they flop during car topping, they could be secured with a bungee or the same pip pin that secures them in the rowing position. In another I'ble I show how I car top my canoe without much effort. Since I only lift one end at a time there are no he-man contortions at the boat ramp or beach.
When braking (dragging both oars to stop quickly) the outriggers will rise up and pop the oar out of the oarlock socket, to fix this I bought two small pip pins and drilled holes to match through the hinge pin and outrigger hinge, this keeps the arms down and still allows a quick pin pull to allow the outrigger to be stowed for docking and car topping.
The LAST thing you want to happen, is to loose an oarlock overboard! I secure mine with small caribiner clips through the hole in the bottom of the oarlock in the pictures. Since then I have been using small bungee cords to do the same thing. There is a much more elegant way of securing them, it involves a short chain and a "toggle made of a wire loop, someday I will duplicate this and post the pictures.
The picture is of my dads canoe, my wife is paddling bow position, and mostly this picture shows how out of the way my first install is when not rowing. Due to the stiffness of the gate hinge bushings they don't tend to flop around, they still point toward the bottom when the canoe is turned over. Once they do wear in so that they flop during car topping, they could be secured with a bungee or the same pip pin that secures them in the rowing position. In another I'ble I show how I car top my canoe without much effort. Since I only lift one end at a time there are no he-man contortions at the boat ramp or beach.
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