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Step 3Armor/ flak vest
The flak vest was cut from a cotton canvas drop cloth using an old t-shirt as a pattern- the sleeves are shortened and taper to the armpit area.The vest is also shorter than a regular t-shirt: it should only come down to your belly button.The vest opens at the back and has four velcro tabs to close it. The armor can be attached to the vest by hot glue, velcro or by using snaps.
I ended up using snaps because it makes the armor easy to remove. Plus, I already had them! :)
To use snaps, cut out some canvas into squares and attach the male part of the snap. Then using hot glue, glue the canvas square to the backside of the armor. I used three snaps on the chest plates, two on the collar, two on the shoulder bells and four on the back plate. Then what you do is put the vest on and rub some charcoal onto the male snaps on the armor and press the armor to the vest. This leaves an impression where you need to attach the female eend of the snaps to the vest.
I made my armor from Sintra sheet. Sintra is nice because it can be heated (by immersion in hot water or by using a heat gun) and then molded to shape. The back plate is the hardest part to make and having another person to help mold it to your back is a real benefit. All the armor is painted olive green, except for the shoulder bells. I hand painted the logos on the left shoulder bell and right chest plate.
The codpiece is held together by velcro. The front of the codpiece is made of two pieces of Sintra with filler (spackling paste or Bondo) to get the shape.
If you can't get Sintra, plastic from large paint buckets or trash cans will also work but sometimes it can be more difficult to get glue to adhere to it. The armor can also be made from two layers of cardboard (the same kind of cardboard used to make the helmet and jetpack) but it can be tricky to get the all the necessary curves to get the armor to fit right.
I ended up using snaps because it makes the armor easy to remove. Plus, I already had them! :)
To use snaps, cut out some canvas into squares and attach the male part of the snap. Then using hot glue, glue the canvas square to the backside of the armor. I used three snaps on the chest plates, two on the collar, two on the shoulder bells and four on the back plate. Then what you do is put the vest on and rub some charcoal onto the male snaps on the armor and press the armor to the vest. This leaves an impression where you need to attach the female eend of the snaps to the vest.
I made my armor from Sintra sheet. Sintra is nice because it can be heated (by immersion in hot water or by using a heat gun) and then molded to shape. The back plate is the hardest part to make and having another person to help mold it to your back is a real benefit. All the armor is painted olive green, except for the shoulder bells. I hand painted the logos on the left shoulder bell and right chest plate.
The codpiece is held together by velcro. The front of the codpiece is made of two pieces of Sintra with filler (spackling paste or Bondo) to get the shape.
If you can't get Sintra, plastic from large paint buckets or trash cans will also work but sometimes it can be more difficult to get glue to adhere to it. The armor can also be made from two layers of cardboard (the same kind of cardboard used to make the helmet and jetpack) but it can be tricky to get the all the necessary curves to get the armor to fit right.
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What kind of material did you use for the helmet's visor?
Keep up the good work I'd be glad to see the boots, gloves and gauntlets coming.
With best regards from Germany ;)
sintra sheet but it still looks pretty good.
I am in no way responsible for any injury or damage anyone sustains or causes. You are responsible for your own actions.
Now, having gotten that out of the way, Sintra can be immersed in boiling water for approximately 3-5 minutes before it becomes maleable. Alternatively, you can use a heat gun on the low setting and move it back and forth like a hair dryer to heat it up. If it gets too hot, the surface will start to bubble and it will smell bad. Your Spider Sense will begin tingling : )
Sintra is a form of PVC and can release some nasty fumes when it gets too hot. Shape it while it is warm and cool it with cool water to retain the shape. If you don't like how it looks, heat it up again, reshape and cool it again.
Here is a site with more information on Sintra. I'm using Superglue as an adhesive.
http://www.solarbotics.net/starting/200207_sintra/200207_sintra_adhes.html
I have not shaped any Sintra armor yet, I'm still in the cutting phase. This stuff cuts and sands very well and, when primed, takes paint well also.
Here are a few websites with a lot of information on making a Boba Fett costume:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/forums/
http://www.skaines.com/fett/index.html
http://www.tk409.com/fett.html
http://www.angelfire.com/scifi/cantinacostumes/BF_armor_inst_page.htm
I hope this helps answer most of your questions.
Plz post any other question s and I'll try and answer them. I highly recommend using the SEARCH function on the dented helmet and check out the dented helmet threads I posted earlier.
I picked up a heat gun for about $10 at one of Harbor freight's retail stores. I tested it out today and the Sintra doesn't have to get very hot at all before it starts to bend. It is very easy to work with.
BTW, Honus is THE MAN on inexpensive, creative costuming ideas!
I'm planning on making most of my blaster from Sintra. To tell ya the truth, the stuff is so easy to cut and form that you could use it for almost any kind of armor, plate mail for a knight for example. This is my next project for Halloween 2008 (maybe) if I ever get to a "happy with it" point on my Boba Fett. : ) LOL I'm also thinking about making a Colonial Space Marine, from Aliens, or Dracula's red armor from Bram Stoker's Dracula. I will have to take the plunge into vacuum forming to do Dracula or the Nazgul though.