Step 1: Gathering Materials
•The finished sword - the blade needs to be completely dry and done. I suggest also finishing the pommel and any other glueing so you don't get dap on the cover, but you can wait until the cover is done to wrap the handle in any rope/ athletic tape/ etc.
•Fabric - something sturdy that will not fray easily, I suggest trigger or duck cloth.
•A sewing machine
Step 2: Laying Out the Fabric
Put the sword on the fabric and adjust it until there is enough fabric hanging over the edge of the sword to touch the rest of the fabric on the other side. I put some brown felt under my fabric so you can see how far I've pulled it over.
Step 3: Pinning the Edge
Leave about an extra inch of the sword showing, this leaves room to tape down the cover. If you are making a drawstring cover do not do this, instead leave about 1-2 inches hanging off the edge of the sword so you have room to roll it over and fit a string.
Pin the fabric so it sits on the middle of the blade, not on a corner. This makes it less weird and gives a better fit when we reach the top curved part of the blade.
Pin up the side of the blade keeping the fabric tight to the edge. Put as many pins as you need in the curve to force it to keep its shape, but unlike me try to remember to keep them all facing the same direction.
Step 4: Marking the Edge and Cutting
Remove the cover from the sword. It should slide off fairly easily, but if it is too tight and not coming off loosen your pins. It is always more difficult to get a sword on when it is done because there is a seem inside, so if it's not coming off now it's not going to fit well when you're done sewing.
Cut the fabric lining up about with the edge of the folded fabric. I like to leave tons of extra space incase there are any errors and the cover is too tight, this way I can adjust it to be larger and trim the extra fabric down later. You can choose to make this shorter by cutting it now, or trimming after it's sewn.
Step 5: Sewing
Using a simple straight stitch that is not too loose or too tight run the cover through the machine. Try to stay lined up with your chalk line.
At the start stich forward, then do a back stitch, then continue forward again. This will help to keep the cover from falling apart at the seem. Also do this at the end.
Step 6: Test Fit and Correction
While the cover is still on the sword mark any areas that need tightened with chalk and run it through the machine again. Do a backstitch at each end.
If the cover is so tight that it will not go on do not force it, instead get a seem ripper and take out the stitches until it is loose enough to fit. Then re-pin and mark the areas that were too tight, this is where it helps to have the extra fabric.
After you have made any corrections do another test fit. Keep correcting until the cover fits properly.
Step 7: Preventing Tears and Fraying
Do not pin any of the fabric, just make sure the tension is right and run the cover through. In this case I used a double overlock stich and left a bit too much extra fabric on the side, but it fits over the weapon fine so I left it. Since this is a bit of a newbie weapon sergering the cover is over-kill, but for my stick jock husband it is essential.
If you can't find a serger you can do a fake kind of serging on a regular sewing machine using a zigzag stitch. It won't hold up as well but it can help to prevent the cover from blowing out on the seam and fraying.
Step 8: Yay It's Done!
All this sword needs now is for the cover to be taped on near the handle. This is also the time to do any painting or decorating, since paint does not agree with sewing machines and it would be a waste to decorate a cover that doesn't end up fitting.
Total time was bout 40 minutes, and that includes taking pictures and messing up. With practice you could easily make a sword cover in 30 minutes or less.