Introduction: How to Sew an Original Jean Hem
Many people prefer to have an Original Hem treatment done to their designer jeans. Even if you can duplicate the thread color and distress marks to a certain extent, some hem decorations are far beyond the typical DIY's tools and materials, and are just downright too much work for even the professional to duplicate. I'll show you the methods to attain professional results, saving yourself $25-$40. Let's go find some jeans!
Step 1: Prepare the Hem
- Get a pair of denims
- Press out hem if it is wonky-looking
- These need to be 3" shorter, so I mark 3" from bottom.
- Fold up 2" for these, or so that old hem bottom is 5/8" above 3"(or whatever yours is) chalk line. This is because after stitching right sides together, you will flip down old hem, which is ~ 5/8".
- Press with iron at this fold along entire hem.
Step 2: The Trick Is in the Foot and the Method
A lot of how-to's for this type of hem don't use the correct foot or method, so they don't get close enough to the original hem stitching.
- Use a zipper foot. This type from Husqvarna is the best one for this treatment. Adjust needle to the far left.
- Remove sewing platform to give yourself more control.
- Pull back hem fold to open up the space.
- Wedge sewing foot as far into that as you can. This should cause the fold to stand up at 90 degrees.
- Start sewing, stretching the hem as you sew, slightly pulling right, into the foot. The goal here is to keep that fold standing up, and not droop down where the needle could catch it.
- This is how it should look while you are sewing.
- Make sure that the side seams are lined up as you approach them. If you have a hard time manipulaling the bumps here, just go slowly, turning the handwheel. I prefer to go full speed, because I know that this machine, with the proper jean needle, will have no problem going through everything. Momentum is your friend!
Step 3: Cut Edge and Lockstitch
- Pink edges or
- Serge them
- Press inside
- Press outside, using a ham to get a nice, hard fold, just shy against that original stitching. Not over or too close, you don't want it covered any amount.
- Stitch that fold very close to the edge, manipulating it's placement if needed while you are sewing.
- All done! Press with strong downward force, on a high heat/steam setting. These will always look nice, even after washings. No flip out, no maintenance ironing.