Introduction: How to Sew Summer-wrap-around-pants
This is how to sew a summer wrap-around pant! It's really easy to sew, only straight stitching lines and an easy pattern.
You may know this wrap around skirts that girls wear in summer?
If you live somewhere in southern asia it's no problem to wear them as a man, but here in central europe the people are not used to it and may give you strange looks.
But this wrap around technique is really good and so I made me a manly wrap around pants. If you use the right fabric it's even better than shorts! But you can of course make the the pants as long as you want, also short. ;-)
I used blue linen for mine. It's cool and looks good and you don't have to bother about orientation of the fabric.
Step 1: Start With the Pattern
Because I sewed my pants years ago, I couldn't make a detailed photo-documentation of all steps, but it's so easy, even beginners can do it. I provide sketches and pictures of the finished pants.
In the first picture you can see what the pattern looks like.
Because it is a rather free design you don't need to worry too much about the size. Start with a fabric that is 10cm bigger and trim it in the end. If it gets too big, just make a new hem and trim the rest.
You need two size values: Your waits and the length of your legs, or the length that you want your pants to be.
Step 2: Adjust Sizes
The first picture is the flat pattern that you need when you lay the fabric flat on the ground, its two layers face to face. The second picture shows the pants at step 5 after joining the parts at the main seam.
Make the front and back side as long as 2/3 of your waist circumference. On each side you only need 2cm for sewing a hem. The front and back are made half from the upper piece of cloth and half from the lower, look at the second picture to see what I mean.
The length should be 5-10cm longer than finally desired length, because of the large hem at the top.
In the picture you can see how these values make up the pattern.
To make an example: Say your waist circumference is 100cm, then the front and back part should be 66cm wide. That means each side gets 33cm + 2cm for the hem (Value A on picture).
Now assume that you yourself need a circular space inside the pants, that means the distance between the front point and the back point of the main joint is: circumference / pi ≈ 32 cm. (wide: 2xA + space = 98cm)
The length of the final pants should be 80cm, that would give us a length of the fabric of 90cm, value B. (length: 90cm)
Start with two identical pieces of fabric (size 98cm x 90cm) and lay them face to face on a big table or the ground. Obey the orientation of the fabric, or just use one that looks the same in all directions, it's easier.
Now, start to draw the cut-away for your waist to the fabric. Even though you are now looking to the left side of the final pants you should take some kind of washable chalk or some pencil. Don't use Edding markers! ;-)
Step 3: Fix the Seam With Fixing Pins and Sew
Cut out the gap from the two pieces. The exact way doesn't matter. Just make it a nice looking curve just as on the picture. If you make it too large, then the gusset will be hanging between your knees. Is that still modern?
Now start to fix the seam between the two legs with fixing pins. Just put one side on top of the other and fix it with a pin.
Then sew over two times with a small distance between. This way you get a broad seam that's really tough and flat. Look at the sketch to see what I mean it. I guess there must be some word for it, but I don't know, may be flat seam? Any better jeans has this kind of seam.
Step 4: Make the Ribbon to Close the Pants
From some scrap fabric we now make two ribbons to fix the pants while wearing.
For some light weight fabric like silk or similar, you could also think about fixing 4 ribbons on each end and then make small knots while wearing.
For heavier fabric like linen, I used a piece of Velcro fastener. Add the rough part to the pants and the soft to the ribbon. In my case, I added an additional belt loop at the edge of the fabric to act as a support for the ribbon.
The ribbons must be at least as long as the gap of 1/3 of your waist circumference plus some 10 centimeters more to fix them in the hem and on the other side.
My hint: Make them much longer and later adjust the length that is sewn in the hem. Make one good looking end that is outside and trim the end that goes inside the upper hem of the pants.
Step 5: Finish All the Other Hems
Before finishing the pants by sewing the upper hems and inserting the ribbons it is best to sew all the side hems. (blue ones in the picture)
It depends on your style if you want to fix all the other hems with pins before sewing. Or even iron the hems before fixing it. A lot of work can be done here.
I made them quite easy by just flapping the edge over and stitching along the edge. This way the open rim of the fabric is still visible, but it's much less work than a more complex hem.
Step 6: Adjust the Ribbon in the Upper Hems
The only really important hems are the upper ones. Even though, when wearing a T-Shirt or something similar, it's not visible any more...
I suggest to make a 5cm broad hem on the upper part. It gives you a good feeling when wearing it and makes the pants look really good. If you want, you can apply additional stickers or other objects on the front hem.
Start fixing the hem in the middle of the pants, where the two pieces of fabric are sewn together. First bend over only 1cm, then 5cm, look at the picture. This way the end of the fabric is finally inside the hem.
Now is the time to adjust the final length of the ribbon. When getting to the side of the front part, put the ribbon inside the hem and fix it with some additional stitches But make sure that you have at least 10cm inside the hem!
Now the last step is to adjust the length of the pants and finally sew the lower hems.
Step 7: Wear It!
Well now it is time to wear it!
I dress it on this way. I grab the back part and fix it with the ribbon, then I grab the front part between my feet and fix it too.
I also saw people wear it the other way around, with the opening to the front, but I don't like that.
If you like it: Please vote for me at the summer sewing contest! Thanks!
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