Replacement blades are expensive,$30 to $40.  Why not save some money and sharpen the old one ? 
Back before safety razors and during world war II, when steel was scarce, people would resharpen their double edge razor blades on a sheet of glass.  I figured why not try it on my Norelco shaver that was leaving my face raw,  and it worked,   Here is how I did it...

You will need a small brush to clean shaver and heads, also a flat piece of glass ( a mirror or  picture frame glass will do).

Step 1: Remove shaver head

Brush out any hair in the body, do not use water. 
<p>Unfortunately this won't work on Philips HQ9 blades. The inner 3rd row blade is taller than the rest.. so the outer 2 blade rows never touch the glass!! </p>
<p>Worked great on my 10-year old Norelco Quadra 7865xl blades. I bought a little mirror from the 99&cent; store, and I used some &quot;3-In-One&quot; multipurpose oil instead of spit.</p>
Just tried this on my phillips coolskin Hs8060 and it works a treat.
<p>I think the basic point everyone is missing-regardless of how well you can sharpen these cutters- THEY USED TO SELL US THE CUTTERS. Even now it's obvious that you can disassemble these silver shaving heads. The Cutters can be removed and replaced. I don't remember anyone who used a Norelco paying so much to replace the entire head assemblies. Why don't they just tell us replacement cutters sharp and new from the factory?</p>
<p>The companies do sell just the cutter replacements. I've gotten them at Walmart.</p>
<p>The full name of the compound dachshund9 is referring to is actually </p>Tormek PA70 Honing Compound
<p>It worked! This is awesome as the head cost almost as much as a new shaver. Thanks!</p>
<p>Yes this should work 100%, although I haven't tried this but it also remembers my Grand father used to Sharpen SS Shaving blades by rubbing them on a pocket mirror.</p>
<p>Noticed immediate and significant improvement after doing this. Smoother, quicker shave with less pulling. Thank you! </p>
<p>I've tried several different methods, this worked very well!</p>
<p>I&rsquo;ve tried this sharpening technique on two different <br>razors. My older Philips Norelco Electric Razor 7300 went from pulling hairs to <br>better than when it was brand new! With my Philips Norelco AT830 the blades are <br>not dull so no difference there, but I could tell some gunk was removed after cleaning it all out. Rather than using a mirror I used one of my wife's glass cooking pans. I finished it off with some fresh razor oil and powered the shavers on for a few minutes to hone them in. </p>
<p>Please tell all your fellow Norelco users about this post. I stopped buying silver heads years ago. I don't even know where the shaver is. I was tired of spending the cost of the shaver. If we all ask them for the cutters again, maybe that will catch on. Just stop using them.</p>
<p>I never was one to buy into on line fixes, however I followed the instructions on my 15 year old device and OMG it worked. The smoothest shave that I have gotten since I first opened this 15 year old Xmas gift.</p>
<p>I bought the Remington MB450 Connector after reading a review on </p><p>&lt;a href=&quot;http://getashaver.com&quot;&gt;GetAShaver.com&lt;/a&gt;</p>
<p>I bought the Remington MB450 Connector after reading a review on</p><p>&lt;a href=&quot;http://getashaver.com&quot;&gt;GetAShaver.com&lt;/a&gt;</p>
<p>I&rsquo;m sure you get some <br>improvement with your glass method, but cajun62234 is correct, I&rsquo;ve never seen <br>a Norelco blade that was flat, all I&rsquo;ve ever seen are domed or rounded at the <br>tip of the cutting blade.</p><p>Norelco plainly states not <br>to mismatch the cutters and cups, which tells me one thing for certain, they <br>are honed as a set. The only way to bring them back anywhere close to factory <br>is to re-hone as a set.</p><p>I use a simple method, <br>remove and clean the cups and cutters, apply a very small amount of an abrasive <br>compound, replace cutters in cups, replace in razor and run razor for about 1 <br>minute (depending on abrasive used). Remove cups and cutters and clean and <br>reinstall on razor and enjoy a close shave.</p><p>I use an abrasive compound <br>used with the Tormex sharpening system. The compound can be purchased at <br>Woodcraft.com, I&rsquo;m guessing, but probably around $4-$7 per tube. You will only <br>need one tube for the rest of your life, you use just a very small amount, I <br>apply with tooth pick. Whatever the cost of the abrasive, you will save $30-$40 <br>dollars per sharpening after initial purchase. I&rsquo;m sure other abrasives can be <br>used, you&rsquo;ll just have to try others and see, but I know for a fact that Tormex <br>abrasive works great.</p><p>I have tried tooth paste and <br>even tried polishing compound made for and used at auto body shops for <br>polishing car paint, neither gave me satisfactory results.</p><p>I&rsquo;m not going to make the <br>statement that the blades are factory sharp, but mine certainly give them a <br>good run for the money, I&rsquo;m well please with the results.</p><p>Good luck with your <br>sharpening and happy shaving.</p>
<p>I'm sure you get improvement with your method, but cajun62234 is correct, I've never seen a norelco cutter that was not curved, could be some don't know for sure.</p><p>Norelco plainly states not to mismatch cutters and cups, which tells me one thing for positive, the cups and cutters are honed as a pair and that is the only way that you can ever bring them back to near new condition. </p><p>I've found a very simple way to do exactly that. Merely add some type of abrasive inside the cups, replace the cutter, (depending on type of abrasive) run the razor for about 1 minute.</p><p> I use an abrasive used with the Tormex sharpening system. It can be purchased at Woodcraft.com, it is agressive, so go easy with the amount you use and run like I said approx 1 minute. It comes in a tube about the size of tooth paste, I'm quessing price is around $4-$7?, whatever the cost, your saving around $30-$35 dollars ever time you sharpen your blades and a tube will last a lifetime. I clean with warm water first rinse, then use alcohol on a q-tip, then rinse again.</p><p>You can probably make do with almost any type of good abrasive? I have tried tooth paste and even polishing compound made for polishing auto paint in body shops, I didn't get satisfactory results with either, but I know for a fact that the above mentioned Tormex abrasive works great. Good luck to you whatever or whichever method you use.</p><p>I'm not going to make the statement that the resulting shave is as good as new set, but it will certainly give it a run for it money.</p>
<p>It is just about taking the burs off. A leather strap is what the barber used to use and The chefs use a ceramic bar to sharpen on. So you can do this with the bottom of a coffee mug or a plate. Just run the blades alone like you are shaving the bottom of a cup for 5 seconds or so and they will be like new. No hand work, let the razor spin them. </p>
<p>I agree!</p>
<p>hi, i live in new zealand where the cost of replacement heads is more than the cost of a new razor complete. So I have 3 dull razors that were due for the recycling. I decided to give your sharpening method a try - I was very sceptical but any improvement would be good. The result was unbelieveable - all three razors back to new performance. thanks very much</p>
<p>hi, i live in new zealand where the cost of replacement heads is more than the cost of a new razor complete. So I have 3 dull razors that were due for the recycling. I decided to give your sharpening method a try - I was very sceptical but any improvement would be good. The result was unbelieveable - all three razors back to new performance. thanks very much</p>
<p>hi, i live in new zealand where the cost of replacement heads is more than the cost of a new razor complete. So I have 3 dull razors that were due for the recycling. I decided to give your sharpening method a try - I was very sceptical but any improvement would be good. The result was unbelieveable - all three razors back to new performance. thanks very much</p>
<p>i never sharpen my razor before, this step by step give me a nice idea. thanks.</p>
<p>I tried just disassembling mine and cleaning it (disgusting after 3 or 4 years). I reassembled it and put a drop or two of oil in each cutter and the difference is amazing. I'm a little hesitant to try sharpening it unless I'm prepared to buy a new one.</p>
I can't tell what series Norelco razor this is but if the cutter/screen profile is anything like the 7-series &quot;lift and cut&quot; I use this is a really crude way to do this at best and likely degrades its performance. Why? Looking closely at my cutters with a magnifying glass I can easily see that each blade face is not at all flat but curved- the cutters are convex and the screens are correspondingly concave. So all you're doing here is deforming the bade surfaces, flattening what was once curved, and putting them back in their screens and operating them is what actually did the final sharpening. <br>For a few years I've been using a method involving putting a 1/2&quot; drive (not 3/8, the wall is too thin) 13-14 mm socket (depends on the brand but you're looking to duplicate the screen's profile) against a piece of medium soft wood, in a vise, and making a significant impression, like a donut. The width of the donut, after applying the sandpaper, should be a little wider than the track made by the spinning cutter- you want to spin it in the groove. Afterwards I take a piece of 1500-2000 grit sandpaper, spray some 3m adhesive (like used on carpet and headliners) to affix an abrasive surface, then reapply the socket to reinforce the desired profile. This gets me a donut shaped sharpening surface that approximates the cutters' profiles. I then take a tool I made from a broken Norelco razor and a writing pen which engages the cutter perfectly and I spin the cutter precisely within the donut groove just a few rotations. The sandpaper should last for about 3-4 cutters. <br>Then when I put them back in the razor I operate them with a coating of machine oil as AGAIN the real final sharpening is actually done by the razor itself. <br>Hopefully someone can make some use of this advice and again, I can only say the obvious flaw in this instructable is that you're trying to sharpen a curved cutter on a flat surface. Doesn't add up. <br>In the end nothing is as good as new cutters and the only real drawback with worn cutters IMO is speed- old cutters seem to shave as close as new ones it just takes a hell of a lot longer to get the job done- so long you may not be shaving as close, not because they can't do it. <br>Finally for some real fun trash those junky Ni-Cd batteries Phillips puts in there and put Sanyo Eneloops in their place- you'll be blown away at how long they last. Soldering skills a must.
Fantastic idea. Did it myself and works great and super easy to do. You'll need the kind of toothpaste with abrasives (diatoms) in it like colegate and crest. The mineral oil is helpful as the abrasives get dry quick but I can see where spit would work if you had no oil. Don't try to press too hard or you'll bind the rotors. Just press about the same rate as you would on your face or maybe a bit less. Its not your force that does the work, its the abrasives. The mirror does not get scratched at all and only provides a perfectly flat surface. The surface does not have to be perfectly flat since the rotors float, but it helps. I sharpened for only 5 minutes. ONE CAUTION: There are little copper springs on some models that support each mini blade. If you are rough in handling the rotors, you could dislodge them from their clips in front of each mini blade and your rotors will not go back in the housing properly so be careful at cleanup. I used a tooth brush but was to rough. Use tooth brush LIGHTLY during clean up.
1. Mix a 1;3 solution of White toothpaste [1] and Mineral Oil [3] on the back of a porcelain saucer. [White toothpaste has a lot of 'grit']. <br>2. Place shaver face down in solution and turn the shaver 'ON' and let it run for a few minutes; checking occasionally to make sure that the solution is embedded in the shaver heads. <br>3.Remove head unit, rinse with hot-faucet water. <br>4.Disassemble [keep the screens &amp; blades mated] and spray with Bathroom Cleaner. <br>5. Assemble <br>
Toothpaste is a great polishing compound..I prefer glass to polish on, don't trust the flatness of ceramics, but whatever works!
Used a flat and wet Arkansas sharpening stone in place of the glass. Shaver is back to nearly original sharpness after 2.5 years of use. It had been going down hill fast the last two months. Saves me the fee of new blades and avoiding the waste of good stainless steel. I would have re-cycled it, but sharpening is a better path for me. Thanks to the author and all the additional comments!
THANKS! I added two steps - I removed the screens, replaced the blades on the drive shafts, pressed the shaver against the mirror and used the shaver motor to polish - makes it very easy. I also used some saliva as lubricant for the polishing process
Sounds like a novel idea, one that would speed up the process considerably. How long did you run the blades against the mirror and how much pressure did you apply? Also, it would probably be a good idea to wear eye protection, as you never know if the mirror might accidentally chip and send a shard of glass flying your way.
very light pressure, but if someone is going to use other methods to polish the blades, such as Kornlak suggests, they should use eye protection.
Oh, I can't imagine any way that this could chip the glass, and if there was a chip there isn't enough force to send it anywhere. But in today's world I must say &quot;Do it at your own risk and wear eye protection&quot; otherwise your lawyer might get me :-)<br>As for force, using the shaver as I suggested, the shaver body springs provide the force, doesn't take much - just like shaving. With the shaver it is very short, just a few seconds is needed, longer if you do it by hand.<br>
I agree
This &quot;replacement Norelco heads are expensive&quot; thing is ridiculous. They're $30 and you get two years or more from them depending on your beard. That's not expensive at all. Buy new heads.
I can't argue with someone who wants to buy new shaver heads, it's their money... This is only a suggestion to those who want to feel good about extending the life of a product. I have repaired many things in my home over the years that others would have thrown out, but then again, I'm handy and some people are not
Perhaps that's not expensive relative to your own income and asset level. There are plenty of people in the world who consider $30 a significant amount of money. Also, there are people who are more conservative minded, that are bothered by the wastefulness of tossing out something that can be renewed with just a little effort. You can probably do this while watching a 30 minute comedy show.
I'm intrigued by this tip. It's quite obvious that Norelco and other shaver companies make a lot of money from replacement parts. But when you realize that a little sharpening is all that is needed to these cutter blades, it seems wasteful to toss out the old heads and buy new ones. The &quot;disposable society&quot; mentality is just not a sustainable one.<br><br>Anyway, I think the trick of using oil is probably best, as it is more viscous than saliva. Also, I'm assuming that this will pretty much scratch the hell out of your mirror, so that it's probably best to use one that you you're not using any longer, or pick up a cheap one at a dollar store.<br><br>
Instead of spitting on the glass try a drop of mineral oil or baby oil which is scented mineral oil.
I just tried this and it worked <em><strong>INCREDIBLY</strong></em> well!&nbsp; My razor has been basically ripping the hair out of my face for months, but I haven't been able to afford new blades.&nbsp; I saw this Instructable, tried it, and the blades are now so sharp it plows through my stubble like it isn't there and even manages to cut my skin!&nbsp; Yes, cutting my skin is a good thing, as it proves the blades are very, very close to being as sharp as the day I bought them!<br /> <br /> Thank you SO much for not only helping to restore my razor to a functional state, but to open my eyes up to the ability of glass to act as a whetstone!<br />
I know that mirror, used to have one years ago, it fell apart. Being double-sided as far as I remember both were not flat? Also, I'm curious as to how abrasive that glass actually is <a href="http://www.trademe.co.nz/Pottery-glass/Glass-crystal/Other/auction-260542467.htm" rel="nofollow">Lilicrap's hone</a> appears to be slightly rougher.<br /> <br /> L<br />
One side on my mirror&nbsp;is flat the other side is concave, You wouldn't want to use the concave side for sure.&nbsp; Glass is very smooth, but it is made from sand and it does have an abrasive sureface and less likeley to remove much metal.&nbsp; I believe it's more of a polishing job.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br />
It was 20-30 years ago, but you bring it back to me. It would have to be a polish, I've no handle on how smooth or rough a mirror is, but I'm thinking very-smooth. (There's more to glass than sand as it happens, it's not quartz at all.)<br /> <br /> L<br />
I'll have to try that.&nbsp; I've been using Norelco razors since 1985 or so and have never taken particular care to keep the cutter matched to the screen.&nbsp; I've never noticed a difference in performance.&nbsp; My biggest problem is hair, fallen from my head, getting caught between the cutter and the screen.&nbsp; It winds up at the pivot point and forces the cutter away from the screen.&nbsp; That leaves you with no cutting at all.&nbsp; <br />
I tried this on my&nbsp;hella old Philishave electric shaver <br /> and it worked great! Thanks!

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