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How to solder (for Jewelry purposes)

Step 5A little more information...

A little more information...
If you want to use posts on your earrings, you will want to solder them in place before polishing. Do this by putting a piece of solder where you want the post to go, hold the post in your tweezers, then heat the solder until it slumps and stick the post right on top of it, while continuing to heat the whole piece and post. The solder should flow and attach the post to the metal.

The picture on this page is a pair of copper wire earrings that I soldered together, then blackened to help hide the solder seams. Copper in its natural state will slowly tarnish to a brown color, but if you want to keep it shiny, spray it with a clear lacquer or polyurethane. Silver will also tarnish, but it is much easier to polish back to shiny silver so I usually do not use lacquer on it.


Using a variety of pliers (round nose, needle nose, etc) you can create many interesting shapes that can be soldered together. Soldered jewelry is more sturdy than wire wrapped jewelry as it can not come undone or pulled apart unless it is broken. Use soldering to create interesting chains for bracelets, necklaces, or many types of earrings.
Good luck and let me know how your soldering experiments turn out!
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16 comments
Dec 17, 2011. 1:54 AMvinegrafted says:
Thank you for your instructable - very helpful. I am wanting to solder together the settings that swarovski rhinestones come in or can be placed in - like the tiffany style metal pronged settings and then solder the settings together like the example shown in the image.

I was wondering if I might be able to use a soldering iron - if you know - possibly a low-temp? If so, do you know what type of flux and other material might be needed?

I would attempt to solder the metal together, first, then load the crystals in the prongs after cooling.

thank you.
Dec 20, 2011. 1:03 PMLysharianne says:
I have been making jewelry for a long time now and I use a soldering iron that is made for jewelry. I recommend "simply swank" :)
Dec 20, 2011. 2:29 PMvinegrafted says:
thank you, Lysharianne, that helps. Have you ever made anything like what is in the picture? I'm also having a difficult time locating the settings for the crystal rhinestones to be set into. I've searched all over the internet for settings to fit Swarovski rhinestones and haven't had much luck.
Thanks again, though!
Dec 30, 2011. 10:37 AMLysharianne says:
Yes, I have made something similar. You can find settings on amazon.com or even etsy.com good luck! I hope this helps!!
Sep 21, 2011. 6:24 PMcrowdinamin says:
Thanks so much for this tutorial! its been really helpful. Now that Ive done a few easy pieces I wanted to do a more complex piece. I have a bunch of brass links that I soldered into a ring using the same methods you show here... my issue now is as I try to solder the last link to complete the circle, it melts the solder off previous links. Is there a handy way to keep this from happening?

any advice would be much appreciated
thanks!
Oct 13, 2011. 2:12 AMpaqrat says:
Sorry, I misunderstood your comment. I was thinking you were working on a chain. It would be easier to use a heat sink with a chain but you may still be able to use one. You might be able to affix the razor blade to your links with wire. You want to make sure the edge of the blade is in contact with the link you are trying to solder. As was said in another comment, solders in hard, medium and easy would also solve the problem. My suggestion is a possible fix that would not require additional solders of some sort of covering to protect the metal you're soldering. I hope it helps.
Oct 29, 2011. 12:18 PMcrowdinamin says:
yea that could actually help also. I didnt even think of using some kind of heat sink and the blade should be pretty easy to place on the links i am soldering. Thanks for your help!
Oct 13, 2011. 1:40 AMpaqrat says:
Some years back when I worked in a jewelry store I did some chain repair. In order to keep the solder from going where I didn't want it I used a razor blade as a heat sink. I took a single edge razorblade and put a metal screw in the slot in the blade so it was stand up on its edge with the screw forming another leg. I then placed the edge of the blade on the link I was soldering, about half way back of the link. This prevented the heat from reaching the other parts of the chain. I think I got fairly good at soldering fine curb link chain using this technique. I think it could be applicable to your needs.
Oct 29, 2011. 12:15 PMcrowdinamin says:
awesome. thanks so much for you thoughts on this. I will definitely try this!
Jan 11, 2010. 11:29 AMquantumripple says:
Well made. Clear photos and video.
Aug 19, 2009. 11:34 PMrosenred says:
Excellent tutorial! I have read many more (I usually do that when I am about to start a project - putting it off by reading a ton of material) but yours is far more explanatory and simple to follow. One question though: When soldering copper do you use the same kind of flux and solder? Well maybe two questions... Can you use standard solder (the one used for circuits) if you are not making jewelry (I understand it is not healthy)?
May 20, 2009. 2:40 PMlunastyx says:
This is a SUPER tutorial The pictures and video were wonderful but your written instructions were the best I have seen. Thank you!
May 19, 2009. 10:05 AMquinee says:
This is very helpful~! Thank you so much.
May 16, 2009. 10:22 AMjinnypearce says:
Really, fabulous tutorial, thorough and clear. I've been trying to find this info. You know, this is better presented than in some of the hard core books I've bought. Great job!
Mar 30, 2009. 1:06 PMcourtneygrobb says:
I am VERY interested in learning how to solder and out of all the tutorials I have found online this one is by far the most informative I have come across! Thank you so much! Now if I could only decided what and where to buy supplies... AH I'm still so confused and nervous but you never know until you try... Oh and BTW, I have bought from Monsterslayer.com on many occasions and they are a good company. great prices, hard to beat deals, and relatively fast USPS shipping( but it depends on what kind of shipping you choose they offer UPS and FEDEX too). They have also added a bunch of stuff to their stock so there is more of a wider selection of things. Check it out sometime.
Mar 31, 2008. 7:58 AMAlchemist4356 says:
This was a good tutorial. I would add that many people heat their pickle. This speeds up the reduction of the metal (it turns silver again). The down side here is that you MUST NOT heat your pickle over 140 degrees, because you will get toxic gas. A cold pickle works almost as well, but it takes longer and sometimes the extra time causes the solder spot to become pitted. I've only used a heated pickle, but I've read that it's about 10 hours to get serious pitting. Also, I would make sure than your pickling compound has a heat limit listed, because different compounds are available.
Mar 13, 2008. 8:03 AMcollins661 says:
dear soundinnovation you are very generous to teach all the tricks of the trade. the concise way you explain it shows that you are very competent. sincerely thank you. collins661

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Author:soundinnovation
I'm a metalsmith and jeweler that just graduated from UNT. I work primarily in sterling silver, copper, brass, enamel, and occasionally beads, semi-precious stones, and found objects.