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How to use a 35mm film bulk loader

How to use a 35mm film bulk loader
How to bulk load your own 35mm film and save.
 
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Step 1Stuff

Stuff
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  • BulkLoading.JPG
  • BulkLoading (1).JPG
Here is a list of the things you well need:

- Film Bulk Loader, here I am using a vintage Daylight unit, or you could get a new one from places like FreeStyle Photo who stocks all the various items required as well as many good independent photo shops.
- Film canisters, these have to be a special type intended for reloading.
- Film, the film comes in large 100ft. rolls designed to fit into the bulk loaders.
- Masking tape.
- Scissors.
- Film cans are also useful for storing rolls of undeveloped film.

As mentioned you can get all of these things from a good local photography shop, in the Portland Oregon area Pro Photo Supply comes to mind, or online outlets like Free Style photography out of California, their address is: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/e_main.php, look under bulk loading supplies and film. You can also find things like the bulk loader and film canisters at garage sales, antique shops or on craigslist or ebay.

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22 comments
Oct 8, 2008. 6:15 PMdacker says:
Whoa! Flashbacks! "I love the smell of D76 in the morning -- I smells like DARKROOM!"

I still have my Watson bulk loader stashed in my garage, along with years and pages of Plus-X and Tri-X.

I cannot tell you the last time I saw metal 35mm canisters too, but they are almost as old as your Canon TLb. I recently gave away my first SLR -- a Minolta SR-1 (fully manual - lightmeter required) to a teenager I spotted shooting 35mm a year ago.

I keep around my 26 year-old Canon A-1 SLR (the 1st camera to have a genuine LED readout of shutter speed and f-stop in the viewfinder)

BTW, I'm in PDX; I suspect you are also. And so the rain begins....
Aug 29, 2011. 3:27 PMgdavis13 says:
I have a supply of METAL reloadable cannisters, excellent condition, along with a couple of Lloyd's bulk loaders and changing bags that I can part with if anyone is interested. Let me know !
Oct 6, 2011. 8:52 PMMacKai says:
Do you still have? How much?
Aug 21, 2009. 1:10 PMmcvarij says:
About how many exposures can you get out of a 100' roll?
Aug 29, 2011. 3:23 PMgdavis13 says:
With most 100' rolls, you can get about 18 rolls of 36 exposures if you count your "cranks" accurately when rolling the film.
Apr 15, 2010. 1:26 AMhalvis says:
Oh! And I'm sharing this on facebook! :)
Apr 16, 2010. 1:15 AMhalvis says:
Haven't baught any film yet - buying the loader today. I'll be running Fomapan Action 400 iso in it. It's very close to the feel I got using Agfa APX 400. Nice grain and quite silver heavy. Old School! I shoot in very poor lighting conditions on a regular basis, so I need the forgiving qualities of this film. I also overdevelop by a half stop, using Fomadon Excel ("X-Tol" in powder form) diluted 1:1. 11 1/2 minutes in 20¤C. Gives nice grain and the right punch. And I scan the film.

Love:
Fomapan 400
Tri-X 400
HP5+ 400
Fp4+ 125
Like:
T-Max (all)
Fomapan 200/100
Dislike:
Fuji Neopan (Very unforgiving)
Hate:
All Delta films. Cannot for the life of me get them to work!
Miss:
Agfa APX. Very much. I've got a block of APX 400 120 in the freezer. It's been there for 5 years. Saving it for a very special occation!

I tried attatching a full size jpeg straight from the scanner. It's a shot that would have been impossible if it weren't for the forgiveness of Fomapan 400. Might have worked on Tri-X, but I wouldn't be shooting this stuff on anything else, I think. It's a very thin negative, but there is something even in the darkest areas.

Anyway... it was resized by instructables, so you can check it out here instead:
cyboy.deviantart.com/art/Illustrating-fomapan-400-160894019

Apr 15, 2010. 1:23 AMhalvis says:
Very nice step-by-step! I actually got a hit off google when searching for info on the pro legacy Lloid loader, to see if it would be a good match for me, and this closes the deal! Thanx!
Aug 26, 2009. 2:42 AMxavtek says:
i will just had that you should tape the end of the film to the spool much firmly. I had films detaching from the spool in my camera and it was a nightmare, it will never happen again :) I use a much longer and larger piece of tape and get all around the spool to get the film end on both sides :)
Apr 6, 2009. 3:02 PMMcFortner says:
Thanks for this! I just got the same loader delivered today from a purchase on eBay. I have about a dozen different 35mm cameras (SLR to point-n-shoot to pinhole) and I quickly figured out that bulk loading was the way to go. I haven't been able to find instructions for the Lloyd's, so this was a HUGE help to me.
Jan 18, 2009. 3:19 PMClayOgre says:
I might point out that the style of bulk film loader (A Lloyd Loader) you show needs to be kept very clean. The fuzzy stuff in the film gate can get micro bits of dust that will scratch your film. After trashing several rolls of film with one of these type loaders, I switched to the other variety (The Watson Type...also not without their foibles). In addition, Lloyd loaders can have another problem, with static discharge, if you crank 'em too fast (and depending on the weather). You don't find out this has happened until you develop the film and discover all these little "lightning bolt" type marks where the static discharge exposed the film. (I've had this happen as well).
Jan 19, 2009. 4:13 AMClayOgre says:
I dunno about the static band. Since the internal workings of the loader aren't metal, would the static discharge through it? I lived in Alaska when I had mine, and the dry air during the winter might have had something to do with it. Watson loaders do have an advantage, but you have to remember to open/close the film gate between rolls. Forget to open it, and you will scratch the film way worse than a dirty Lloyd loader. Forget to close it, and you fog your film. ...and, just as a little tidbit of info. When you do scratch film, there is a way to minimize the effect when printing. This only works on the base side of the film, not the emulsion side. Anyway, take your finger and rub a bit of the skin oil from the side of your nose, then rub it onto the base side of the film. It will ill in any scratches. I know, sounds crazy, but it works. Of course there are a couple of drawbacks. You need to carefully clean the "nose grease" off afterwards, since it is a dust magnet. Printing with a cold light head also cuts down on dust/scratches (and supposedly minimizes something called the "Callier effect" as well. )
Dec 22, 2008. 7:56 AMwelshgog says:
Thank you, this will give me courage to start DIY loading myself later in 09. At the moment I'm still getting to grips with developing my own films.
Oct 9, 2008. 4:56 PMthearchitect says:
Great stuff. I loved your blue tape idea, I ruined (thank god unexposed) one roll because the cap fell open. Sadly I don't have time for B&W, and I sold all my 3 bulk film loaders last week, and last 30m roll of bulk film (Provia) tonight. This is the cheapest way to do film photography, you can find expired B&W bulk film if you are patient enough (Last year I grabbed 10 boxes of 50 meter expired Agfa APX-400 for £5 each, gave away to friends, resold them on ebay, great stuff). Expired film is fine as long as they are kept in fridge for their whole life.
Oct 9, 2008. 7:26 AMAPHawkes says:
That's pretty neat! I'd never seen a refillable canister before, let alone a bulk loader. It's nice that you don't have to have a light-tight bag or something to use it. In this era of everything going digital it's nice to see some "old-school" gadgets getting use.

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