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Turn your wooden toboggan into a real rocket sled by simply getting a good coat of wax on it. You will need some paste wax and a couple of cotton ra...
Start by getting your toboggan warm. and gather your supplies.
Just like the karate kid, get the wax on, about 3 coats if it is the first time the toboggan has been waxed.
once the wax has had a chance to dry and harden up a bit, about 30 minutes, buff the wax off with a clean dry cotton rag.
After you have buffed the wax set the toboggan out side in the cold to chill down. Find a hill and start shredding on your super fast rocket toboggan....
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my feet, so my first visit to your site is an overwhe
Especially if you take into account that the maker wants his share, the seller and then of course the tax authorities.
Plastic injection requires a very expensive tool but then it's cheap and fast to make each new one.
Nice instructable friger.
Btw, I wax my plastic sleds and snow racers using hard car wax and it works very well and doesn't wear off as quickly. I assume this can be used on a finished tobbogan as well.
i dont know how accurate this is
http://www.ehow.com/how_6052482_prep-toboggan.html
it did mention using spay furniture polish, i use pledge on my bikes, its the best/cheapest cleaner i found for the paint and chrome.
the $10 cans of all purpose race wax, the ski and snow board /xc ski shops sell would probably last for a lng time.
the main thing is do not use kick wax , which usually looks like a 35 mm film cnnister. hard glide waxes are sold in bars , which require a lot of work compared to the soft waxes, comes in bars
If the wood you are waxing is raw (unfinished), water will cause it to "feather." Even if you wax the bottom, water, such as from melting snow, can still soak the wood. You can reduce this by treating the wood with a good quality finish.
Top quality finishes used out of doors are expensive. One of the reasons is, they must flex with the movement of the wood, or they would crack, eventually allowing moisture in and, then, holding it in. That's one of the reasons why wax works well for applications like this. It flexes.
You can take protection of your exterior wood products a step farther by treating them with hardening oils, such as boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or even walnut cooking oil, before applying wax. These finishes are relatively inexpensive, but, like the wax application, have to be maintained.
You can thin your first coat of hardening oil using fifty percent mineral oil, turpentine or de-lemonine. Apply it and allow it to soak in. You can brush more on the spots that soak it up (ideally, the wood would, eventually, become saturated). After you've quit brushing it in, wipe off the excess. Otherwise it will orange peel.
Let that coat dry for a day or so, then add a twenty-five percent mix. Again, after sitting for about fifteen minutes, wipe off the excess and allow it to dry.
You can apply a final coat with no more than ten percent thinner. This should be wiped off, after sitting, also.
If you're impatient, you can go straight to the ten percent mix, but it wont be as effective.
Once your oil finish is dry, wax away.
CAUTIONS:
Rags with hardening oil get hot, due to the polymerization of the oils. THEY WILL CATCH FIRE, if you don't allow them to dry out, or to keep them in a sealed metal container - outside and away from combustibles. You can also spread them out and allow them to dry, then throw them in the trash (again, away from other combustibles).
Again, don't let pools of the hardening oil dry. They WILL orange peel.