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Step 4Connecting the hoop - inserting the connector
This is my belt-and-braces approach - depending on the connectors you use, you might be able to make a strong join just by using heat, but I like to use glue as well.
Using a marker pen mark the centre of the connector - you don't have to do this, but it helps later.
The plastic glue has two parts, a primer and the glue. Apply the primer to half of the connector. If you are using a pipe insert its better to start the half with the cut-off rim as this may grip the inside of the tube better. Apply the primer to the inside of one end of the tubing. I sometimes mark this with the marker so that I know which end I have done.
Wait for a minute (according to glue instructions), then apply glue to the primed half of the connector.
If the end of the connector doesn't slide into the end of the pipe, heat the pipe - a few seconds with a heatgun usually does the trick. Don't use to much heat to start with - ideally you should need some force to get the connector into the hoop. Once I have the end of the connector in the pipe I press it the free end of the connector down on a table to get it further in. This is where having a centre-mark on the connector can be helpful.
If you are unlucky, you might push the connector in too far. In this case you might be able to pull it out with pliers. If you have end up with less than 15mm of connector sticking out, then it's better to cut off the part with the connector in off and start again, as otherwise the join is quite likely to come apart. I find 20mm pipe inserts are the worst for this happening - the ones I have been using are quite short.
I usually wait for the glue to dry before repeating the process for the other end of the pipe. This is because I don't want the connector to get pushed further into the first end of the pipe when I'm trying to push the second end on. At this point it is a good idea to make sure that nothing has fallen inside the hoop. It can be quite annoying to have something rattling in your hoop. Unless you want a rattling hoop, in which case, this is the time to put rattling items in the hoop.
You might find that once the second pipe-end is on the connector, is is quite difficult to get it to move along so that the ends join up. To get them to join hold the hoop vertically with the join between your left and right hands, and the bottom of the hoop on the ground, then push the joint up and down. This looks rather strange, and its quite slow and hard work, but I guarantee the ends of the pipe will slowly move towards each other. The other thing you can do is wrap some tape (the more scrunched up the better) around the hoop on either side of the join to give a better grip when you push the ends together.
After waiting for the glue to dry, you can test the join by trying to pull it apart. If I'm feeling brave, I put my foot on one side of the hoop and tug at the other end of the join. If the join doesn't hold, glue it again!
Using a marker pen mark the centre of the connector - you don't have to do this, but it helps later.
The plastic glue has two parts, a primer and the glue. Apply the primer to half of the connector. If you are using a pipe insert its better to start the half with the cut-off rim as this may grip the inside of the tube better. Apply the primer to the inside of one end of the tubing. I sometimes mark this with the marker so that I know which end I have done.
Wait for a minute (according to glue instructions), then apply glue to the primed half of the connector.
If the end of the connector doesn't slide into the end of the pipe, heat the pipe - a few seconds with a heatgun usually does the trick. Don't use to much heat to start with - ideally you should need some force to get the connector into the hoop. Once I have the end of the connector in the pipe I press it the free end of the connector down on a table to get it further in. This is where having a centre-mark on the connector can be helpful.
If you are unlucky, you might push the connector in too far. In this case you might be able to pull it out with pliers. If you have end up with less than 15mm of connector sticking out, then it's better to cut off the part with the connector in off and start again, as otherwise the join is quite likely to come apart. I find 20mm pipe inserts are the worst for this happening - the ones I have been using are quite short.
I usually wait for the glue to dry before repeating the process for the other end of the pipe. This is because I don't want the connector to get pushed further into the first end of the pipe when I'm trying to push the second end on. At this point it is a good idea to make sure that nothing has fallen inside the hoop. It can be quite annoying to have something rattling in your hoop. Unless you want a rattling hoop, in which case, this is the time to put rattling items in the hoop.
You might find that once the second pipe-end is on the connector, is is quite difficult to get it to move along so that the ends join up. To get them to join hold the hoop vertically with the join between your left and right hands, and the bottom of the hoop on the ground, then push the joint up and down. This looks rather strange, and its quite slow and hard work, but I guarantee the ends of the pipe will slowly move towards each other. The other thing you can do is wrap some tape (the more scrunched up the better) around the hoop on either side of the join to give a better grip when you push the ends together.
After waiting for the glue to dry, you can test the join by trying to pull it apart. If I'm feeling brave, I put my foot on one side of the hoop and tug at the other end of the join. If the join doesn't hold, glue it again!
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