Human-Powered Light--from My Book, "Doable Renewables"

For far too many people, an untapped energy source is close and personal: body fat. Exercise is a good way to get rid of that fat (or just to stay healthy) and we might as well use that exercise for some good purpose, like lighting a room.
This project takes human activity (winding a hand-cranked generator) and stores the energy in a futuristic way (ultracapacitors) to power a very efficient LED light. The human-powered generator is costly--perhaps your school can purchase one for the science lab.

Materials and Tools

Acrylic sheet, 12 x 12 inches, 1/2 inch thick (www.estreetplastics.com, Part # 1005001212)
Acrylic sheet, 12 x 12 inches, 1/4 inch thick (www.estreetplastics.com, Part # 1002050100)
4 solid acrylic rods, 1 1/2 inch diameter, 2 inches long (www.estreetplastics.com, Part # 5007524100)
Drill
6 medium screws
Screwdriver
On/off switch (www.jameco.com, Part # 22200)
Voltmeter (www.jameco.com, Part # 2095040)
Human-powered generator (www.windstreampower.com Part # 454213)
Cable clamp
13 screws, 1/8 inch diameter, 3/8 inch long
12 ultracapacitors (www.tecategroup.com Part # BCAP0350-E250)
Wire (#22 stranded)
Fuseholder (www.jameco.com, Part # 108792)
Acrylic tube, 1 inch outer diameter, 12 inches long (www.estreetplastics.com,
Part # 6013012100)
Halogen desk lamp (www.walmart.com, Grandrick 20-watt Halogen Desk Lamp)
Wire cutters
Pliers
2 wire connectors (www.jameco.com, Part # 302666)
Wire nut
LED light (http://store.earthled.com/products/earthled-directled-hl)

Step 1: Step 1

Start by attaching four 2 inch long (1 1/2 inch diameter) rods to the 12 inch square, 1/2 inch thick acrylic sheet. Predrill holes in the base and the rods, but first practice using a piece of scrap wood. �Find a hole size that will just allow a medium-sized screw to slide in and out, then reduce that diameter by 1/16 inch. �If the predrilled holes are too small, the acrylic will crack when the screws are added. �Attach the base to the rods by inserting screws into the predrilled holes.

Step 2:

Drill holes in the upper plate, a 12 inch square, 1/4 inch thick acrylic sheet, as shown on the template below.

Step 3:

Insert the on/off switch and secure it with the mounting nut as shown.

Step 4:

Insert the voltmeter and secure it with its nut.  Do not overtighten, as this can damage the meter.

Step 5:

Drill a 7/64 inch hole in the lower base, 1/4 inch from the edge and centered 6 inches from either end.  Secure the generator cable to the base with a cable clamp fastened with a 3/8 inch long by 1/8 inch diameter metal screw.

Step 6:

Using a screw (and a drilled pilot hole) fasten one of the ultracapacitors to the base, on the left side.  The ultracapacitor has its own mounting bracket. Placement of the ultracapacitors is primarily a function of personal taste.  I suggest placing the twelve ultracapacitors on the lower acrylic base (six on the left and six on the right) and--when you are satisfied with the look--lightly mark the proposed locations using a Sharpie pen.

Step 7:

Attach five more ultracapacitors to the base. Drill a 7/64 inch hole in the lower base at each capacitor location.  Using a 3/8 inch long by 1/8 inch diameter metal screw, insert the screw throught the mounting tab on the ultracapacitor.  As you mount each ultracapacitor, connect a wire from the top (positive) of each capacitor to the bottom (negative) of the next capacitor.

Step 8:

Fasten six more ultracapacitors to the right side of the base.  Again, connect positive on each of these capacitors to negative on the next capacitor in the series.

Step 9:

Attach the two final wires from the negative terminals (one on the left group, rear; one on the right group, rear) to the black wire from the generator cable.  Fasten this combination to the lower base.

Step 10:

Attach a wire to the unused positive terminal on the left group and connect it to the unused positive terminal on the right group.  Attach one end of a fuseholder to this terminal also.  Attach the other end of the fuseholder to the positive wire (white) from the generator. Fasten this attachment point to the base with a screw.

Step 11:

Drill a 3/8 inch diameter hole in a 12 inch long piece of 1 inch acrylic tubing, 1/2 inch from the end.

Step 12:

Obtain a halogen desk lamp and locate the screws that secure the protective glass shield.

Step 13:

Remove these screws.

Step 14:

Remove the halogen lamp.

Step 15:

Return the screws to their holes.  These screws hold the reflector in place.

Step 16:

Remove the bottom base cover from the desk lamp.

Step 17:

Cut wires and remove parts, leaving as much of the white wire (coming from the lamp head) as possible.

Step 18:

Grip the lamp neck with a set of pliers and twist the metal neck until it separates from the plastic base.

Step 19:

Carefully drill a 1/8 inch hole in each side of the lamp's neck--do not damage the insulation on the wires.

Step 20:

Pull the wires through the side holes.  This is done so that the tubing will fit flush against the base and not crush the wires.

Step 21:

Insert the lamp's neck into the acrylic tube.  The wires should be near the side.

Step 22:

Insert the acrylic tube assembly through the large hole in the upper acrylic plate.

Step 23:

Pull the wires from the lamp's neck through the side hole in the acrylic tube.

Step 24:

Take one wire from the lamp and crimp it into a connector with the black voltmeter lead. Attach this connector to the negative generator wire (left terminal on the base).

Step 25:

Take one wire from the on/off switch and crimp it into a connector with the red lead from the voltmeter. Attach this connector to the positive generator wire (right terminal on the base).

Step 26:

Take the other wire from the switch and connect it to the remaining lamp wire using a wire nut.

Step 27:

Insert the LED lamp into the lamp's head.  The LED light pins are compatible with the halogen lamp pins.

Step 28:

Connect the generator cable to the generator.

Step 29:

Crank the generator until you have 14 volts, as shown on your voltmeter.  Do not exceed 14.5 volts.  The ultracapacitors are rated for 15 volts, but they are the most costly component in this project, so it's best not to push the limit. Turn the switch on and you should have light.  The light will stay on until you reach about 9 volts, about one hour.


More to Think About

Is it practical to use a human-powered generator to run an air conditioner?
How could you use a human-powered generator to limit someone's TV time?
How much power can an average human produce?
How long would you be willing to wind a crank or sit on a bicycle and pedal?