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Late this summer, hummingbirds finally began visiting the feeder we'd put up on our back porch. I wanted to try and get some digital shots of them, but couldn't stand there with a camera "in range"--they'd never come.
I needed a remote cable release so I could set the camera up on a tripod, aim it at the hummingbird feeder, and release the shutter from a distance away. Problem is, my camera, like most digital snapshooters, isn't equipped for remote shutter release.
Although an earlier instructible had a great hack for opening up the camera and tapping into its electronics, I didn't want to permanently modify my camera, and wasn't sure I would be able to do the surgery without damaging something.
So after some thought, I designed this simple fixture using low-tech parts readily available for $10 or less that allows you to leave your camera intact, but still allows you to "sneak" up on wildlife, have camera on elevated position, and other remote-shutter release situations.
I needed a remote cable release so I could set the camera up on a tripod, aim it at the hummingbird feeder, and release the shutter from a distance away. Problem is, my camera, like most digital snapshooters, isn't equipped for remote shutter release.
Although an earlier instructible had a great hack for opening up the camera and tapping into its electronics, I didn't want to permanently modify my camera, and wasn't sure I would be able to do the surgery without damaging something.
So after some thought, I designed this simple fixture using low-tech parts readily available for $10 or less that allows you to leave your camera intact, but still allows you to "sneak" up on wildlife, have camera on elevated position, and other remote-shutter release situations.
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Signing UpStep 1Design the Frame
The Hummingbird Shooter is basically a wooden frame that closely fits the camera body, that allows the piston of an "old fashioned" bulb release to be positioned over the shutter button of the camera.
I originally planned to have some sharp-pointed screws driven in toward the camera, which I planned to lightly tighten to hold the frame in place, but while building the device, thought of a better way. (more about that later)
My camera, a Canon Powershot A75, has no provision for remote releases, only the finger button in the center foreground of the photo below.
The first step was to measure how high and wide the camera was at the end where the shutter button was. Because of the "sculpted" shape of the camera body, there were a lot of humps curves, and other non-linear dimensions to contend with, so I just cut the wood pieces --1 inch wide pieces of 1/2 inch plywood to rough dimensions to start.
I also had to make note of where the various controls, sensors, etc. were located to be sure my frame would not interfere with them.
I originally planned to have some sharp-pointed screws driven in toward the camera, which I planned to lightly tighten to hold the frame in place, but while building the device, thought of a better way. (more about that later)
My camera, a Canon Powershot A75, has no provision for remote releases, only the finger button in the center foreground of the photo below.
The first step was to measure how high and wide the camera was at the end where the shutter button was. Because of the "sculpted" shape of the camera body, there were a lot of humps curves, and other non-linear dimensions to contend with, so I just cut the wood pieces --1 inch wide pieces of 1/2 inch plywood to rough dimensions to start.
I also had to make note of where the various controls, sensors, etc. were located to be sure my frame would not interfere with them.
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A - great job, very useful and well presented, and
B - "CAUTION ! Whenever drilling sheet metal, there is a tendency for the bit to "grab" the sheet metal from your grasp, making a wicked rotary knife that can slice you up pretty good."
This should be include in any Instructable that involves working with sheet-metal. I worked in a sheet metal shop in the summers of my high school years, worked in construction to put myself through college, and have working with sheet metal on various projects ever since. I'm 45, and as comfortable with sheet metal work as a seamstress is with cloth.
Six months ago I was mocking up a 3-axis sled for a camera mound, and ignored these basic facts:
1 - sheet metal edges are really REALLY sharp, and
2 - sheet metal tends to grab the drill bit and spin if not well secured.
I was in a hurry, and "just reaming out a hole a little", so I held the piece in my left hand against a wood backing plate and started to drill. I can't describe how fast that 2" x 1" piece of metal turned into a high-speed blade, slicing into the tip of my left index finger at least 5 or 6 times before I could get my hand out of the way (picture spiral cut ham!) .
The local clinic pulled it all together without any significant tissue loss, but it hurt like a mofo for weeks afterward, and I've lost most feeling in the tip of that finger, which is a lot more of a problem than you might think. And I was very lucky; I could have just as quickly lost that finger.
So keep trying out new ideas, and don't be afraid to try out new tools and materials, but always suit up and clamp down with the worst case scenario in mind. Let's be care out there!
**See Tord's comment of April 8. Apparently Fuji "gets it".
Thanks for sharing,
Happy Shooting!
Happy shooting!
Great upload, due to my lack of electrical skills' this rig seems simpler for me (Y)
I personally never use flash outside unless I'm using it a fill flash, which is rarely.
you should be able to freeze the birds beating wing with something around 1/1000 of a second
http://www.instructables.com/id/Create-A-Color-Accented-Photo-In-Photoshop/