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Picture of Titanium Plate Alcohol Stove
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The idea behind this design was to make a burner plate which could be placed right on top of a soda can. If the can was damaged you could replace it by just taking a can opener to a new empty soda can. This reservoir is 8 ounces. Smaller than your standard 12 ounce can.

I found out the can was too big to heat the denatured alcohol to keep the flame lit on the burner. Once the fuel in the priming plate went out so did the flame. On top of that it would burn too hot and the flame would come out more than a foot. My solution was to heat the sides of the can with a flame which wicks up fuel. The resulting flame is just hot enough to emit a reasonable flame from the burner plate.

I don't know how long it would take to prime with just the flames on the sides. I helped it along with my torch after about 1 minute. My suggestion is not to make this from titanium. It it very difficult to work with. 




 
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Step 1: Cutting titanium

First thing I did was use the can as a template to mark a circle about 2" on the titanium plate. Then I drilled out holes all the way around and broke it off in a vise. 

Step 2: Finding the center of a circle

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Before mounting the plate into my lathe I had to find the center. To do this I cut a paper circle and folded it in half twice. Then I used a center punch to mark where the folds crossed. I drilled a hole and mounted it in with a nut and bolt. This was by far the most time consuming part. After machining titanium, machining steel felt like cutting butter. 

Step 3: Drill out the burner plate

Using AutoCad I arranged 36 holes in the in a pattern. I printed the design out, taped it to the disc, and used a center punch to mark it out. Next I used a 1/16" drill bit for all the holes. 

Step 4: Making a flat head bolt

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I could have left the bolt as is but I thought it would look better if I polished it. The lathe made quick work of it. I finished it with a file and buffing wheel. 

Step 5: Retention tabs

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These tabs are bent in such a way that the lid snaps into place. It helps create a seal between the plate and the can. I cut two strips of metal and drilled them in the center. Next I crimped them around the nut in a vise (see pictures) and rolled them to shape with a socket bit. 

Step 6: Can open a soda can

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This part is really strait forward. Use a can opener to remove the lid of a soda can then drill two holes about 1" from the bottom. Make sure the holes are just big enough for the wick to pass through. 

Step 7: Placing the wick

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Twist the wick enough so when you fold it in half it wants to twist together. Next thread the wick out of the holes from inside. Tie an over hand knot at each end. Push the inside wick to the bottom so it can soak up fuel. 

Step 8: Light it up

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Pour denatured alcohol into the can. Place a little fuel on the knots and make sure the entire wick is saturated. Light the wicks. Once the stove is hot enough the flame will come out on top. 
lukish1 year ago
Nice instructable, but I just wanted you to know that there is a typo in step 4. (You say "could of" instead of "could have") I'm just trying to spread good grammar ;D
Mrballeng (author)  lukish1 year ago
Typo? What typo? Thanks. I'm a fan of good grammar myself.
:D
Very cool! The lathe work looks a little terrifying! I've never seen sparks come off a piece on a metal lathe like that. Fantastic project!
Mrballeng (author)  NathanaelScheffler1 year ago
Thanks!
Eldrickg1 year ago
I dig it!!