Introduction: I3D FPV by Imaginator 3D

Picture of I3D FPV by Imaginator 3D

All users of any remote control aircraft plans obtained through this site agree to use the remote control craft in a safe and responsible way, and follow all applicable laws.

Users of remote control aircraft plans, diagrams, and designs equipped with cameras obtained through this site, agree to not use them in a way that offends or endangers anyone, to not invade anyone’s privacy, and to follow all federal and local laws regarding aerial photography and surveillance.

If you are unfamiliar with FPV and the processes, please watch Alex Greve's series of videos How to be Successful in FPV. This is a great set of informative videos.

Detailed parts list can be found on our website at www.http://imaginator3d.com/ under "Discover 3D Printing."

Happy Printing!!

Step 1: Printing Your Model

Picture of Printing Your Model

Download and print all of the parts for the Imaginator 3D FPV. You will likely need to do a cleanup job on your model pieces after printing. This model was design and optimized for a heated build plate such as the Imaginator 3D. However, you will likely be able to print the components on most 3D printers. You will need to break off the supporting build structures with a pair of needle nose pliers. They are designed to snap off very easily. The design was optimized for printing with Meshmixer.

· Tip: The bottom and top platforms are best printed in PLA to help prevent warping (Infill: 75%, Shells 8, Layer height .35mm) at . Additionally, the bottom tray rod holders are printed in PLA. The motor mounts are printed in ABS, but PLA should work fine (Infill: 50%, Shells 4, Layer height .35).

· Tip: If you have trouble with PLA warping as well, you might try using blue painter's tape on your heated platform and apply a thin layer of PVA Glue. Run your print with a 70 C degree platform temp and slow down your printer's travel (extruder and travel) speeds to 40 mm/sec.

· Tip: Cleanup may be a bit difficult on the long flat platform pieces because with this setup the PLA is going to adhere to the blue tape very well. However, if you soak your part in water overnight the tape will then peel away from the printed part fairly easily. You may want to apply some Goo-gone to remove the remaining glue. Don't be shocked if your part fills with water. Just vigorously shake it from the piece.

Step 2: Assembly

Picture of Assembly

Assemble Lower Platform

In the pictures you will notice there are two types of landing gear. I started with just the straight pegs as pictured in the first 3 photos. However, these tended to pop off, even when glued on. Hence, I created a set of gear similar to standard helicopter skids and these work MUCH better and will not require you to glue the clips to the carbon rods. You can just pop them on and off.

Also, I removed the gimbaled camera because of the lever arm created by the assembly the camera was bouncing around too much. I opted for a fixed camera and this solved the camera vibration problem. However, I have included the files to print it if you want to try it.

· After printing and cleaning your 3D print of the model, you are ready to assemble it.

Cut And Assemble The Arms

· Cut the 1/2" carbon fiber tube into 4 equal lengths.

o You can make them as long a you want. The longer the arms, the more stable your aircraft will be

o The shorter your arms, the more agile your craft will be

o Excess in either decision will like be detrimental to some aspect of your model whether that be so large you cannot fly inside of your home or too small and the motors will have to work excessively hard to right your model.

o I cut mine to 8". I want to fly in my house on rainy days, but I want as much stability as I can get.

· CA Glue the motor mounts onto the carbon fiber arms

o Note: I used Thin CA because it will wick through the PLA parts and bond the layers together and help to strengthen the part as well as bond the carbon fiber rod to the part. Use plenty

o Note: Make sure to scuff the carbon rod with rough sand paper to help bond it to the CA glue

· CA Glue the arms into the fuse frame

o Make sure to get all 4 motor mounts level to the fuse platforms and each other!! I used a flat table and flipped the arms upside down

o After the epoxy cures, screw the 4 Tray Rod Mounts to the bottom tray with #4-40 x 1/2" screws. Make sure to use washers on the top and bottom.

#4-40 x 1/2" screws and 16 washers for motor mount 4 per motor...24 total

Assemble Platforms Together

· Use the 4 Spacers and your 4 #6-32 x 2inch screws and washers to secure the top and bottom tray together. Make sure arm mounts are on the bottom.

(Please ignore the landing gear hoops, I changed them on the final prototype)

Attach Motors to Motor Mounts

You may have to clean the motor mount holes to get the screws to pass through

I used #4-40 x 1/2" screws for motor mount 4 per motor...16 total. I also used a silicon hot pad(from my wife's kitchen drawer...hope she doesn't read this, she is still looking for them!) and cut them down to fit under each motor for vibration dampening.

Blue Silicon Hot Pad...Donation by Wife

Landing Gear

· Cut your carbon fiber tubes to 3.5".

· Glue the top and bottom to each tube (CA or epoxy will work)

· Glue the clips onto the 1/2" carbon tube (Use hot glue so you can salvage them in the event of a crash).

o The further apart the landing gear legs the more stable the model will be on the ground

Step 3: Add Battery Platform

Picture of Add Battery Platform

If you are going to use a larger battery pack, I recommend that you print and attach the battery platform. This will allow you to connect a 5000ma pack to your copter. You may be able to use the same middle screws, but chances are the two middle screw will need to be longer

Step 4: The Electronic Components

Picture of The Electronic Components

You should find the parts list and links to the products attached to this build

Step 5: Add Electronic Components

Picture of Add Electronic Components

I used 3M double sided tape to mount my electronics. You may need to use a few drops of CA glue to get the tape to adhere to the copter plates. The Non-OPTO ESC should be used and connected on the motor 1 connector on the KK 2.1.5 board because this is how power will be delivered to the board.

Distribution panel is directly under KK 2.1.5 board on underside of top tray

Mount the power distribution panel on the bottom side of the top plate.

Cut the motor extension wires and solder the bullet connectors onto the extensions. Connect the extensions to the motors and ESCs.

Make sure to hook the motors to the correct ESCs.

At some point you will need to program your ESCs. You can watch this video which will give you an understanding of what needs to be done. Make sure to program them before you fly this for the first time!!!

Motor number one ESC should be your Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC) ESC. This is where your KK2.1.5 board will receive power from the battery system. If you use this setup you may need to add a video filter to clean up your video. You can by an inexpensive one at HobbyKing or build your own. They are not difficult to build. They have some on Ebay, as well.

Step 6: Adding the Camera System

Picture of Adding the Camera System

Again, I opted for a fixed camera rather than this gimbaled device. I encountered camera vibration with the gimbals. However, if you want to try and change the setup, please feel free!

I recommend if you are going to use the camera and FPV with this setup that you print and assemble the camera box and add the servos. It's a straight forward process, though you will have to drill the two holes where the assembly attaches to the copter.

If you need info on how to hook up your camera system, look at Alex Greve's video on how to hook up your camera system. I also put an Onboard Screen Display (OSD) on the copter that transmits back to my camera the battery voltage so that I know when to head home. It's not required, though.

Step 7: Hooking Up the Electronics

Picture of Hooking Up the Electronics

Now hook up the control radio to the KK2.1.5 board

If you need some help here is a link for the manual.

You can find explanations on Pi Gain and other settings for you board here as well as this link to help explain the board setup which you will need to do after you get everything connected and ready to fly.

Don't forget:

AT SOME POINT YOU NEED TO PROGRAM YOUR ESCS. YOU CAN WATCH THIS VIDEO WHICH WILL GIVE YOU AN UNDERSTANDING OF WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE. MAKE SURE TO PROGRAM THEM BEFORE YOU FLY THIS FOR THE FIRST TIME!!!

Happy Printing...Happy Flying and come see us at www.imaginator3D.com for all of your printing needs!

All users of any remote control aircraft plans obtained through this site agree to use the remote control craft in a safe and responsible way, and follow all applicable laws.

Users of remote control aircraft plans, diagrams, and designs equipped with cameras obtained through this site, agree to not use them in a way that offends or endangers anyone, to not invade anyone’s privacy, and to follow all federal and local laws regarding aerial photography and surveillance.

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