Introduction: Raspberry Pi Nin10do 'Lite' Game-Console
Okay, before we begin you can watch the video to see WHAT kind of game-console we are going to create...
It is a Raspberry Pi2 based gaming station on which you can play ALL your favourite games from Mario to GTA and from Monkey Island to Load Runner...
The console look great in the living room and is really easy to operate because of the smart on/off and restart system which is always a pain in the *ss with every Pi project. After trying many different boards the LowPowerLab ATX-Raspi board proves to be te best one can get!
So let's get to the next step and see what you will need!
Step 1: Parts and Tools Required
- Screwdriver with different bits
- 3mm drill
- Soldering Iron
- Pliers and stripping tools
- Shrinking tube
- Glue (optional)
- USB housing (optional)
- Acrylic Nin10do / Raspberry casing (see link bellow for the design-file)
- 10 x M2,5 x 10mm stand-off
- 10 x M2,5 locking nut
- 10 x M2,5 8mm Philips bolts
- 2 x M2,5 washer
- Logilink 4 port USB hub
- ATX-Raspi (by LowPowerlab)
- Raspberry Pi
- 16mm LED momentary Switch by Velleman
- Jumper Wires female
- SD card (the larger the better)
- 5v Power Supply (micro USB) with at least 2A
- Controller and/or wireless keyboard
- Monitor / TV and HDMi cable
- Crimping headers, housings and tools to make custom jumper wires
- Gloves (for not getting your acrylic case dirty
You can get most parts worldwide. If you don't want to search for each component or you want you use the original acrylic design as shown in this tutorial please go to: http://www.nin10doshop.com
Step 2: Install the Stand-offs in the Case and Tighten Them With the M2,5 Locking Nuts
You need 10 stand-offs mounted in the case. 4 for the Raspberry Pi, 4 for the ATX Raspi board and 2 for the USB hub.
Need the original Nin10do Lite case?
You can buy a ready to go case here: Nin10do Lite case (shipping worldwide)
The case is very well made and the artwork & logo is laser-engraved on the transparent acrylic.
Step 3: Prepare the USB Hub and Tighten Them Using 2 Screws With Washers
You need to unscrew the Logilink 4 port USB hub and get the PCB out. Fit the PCB inside the case and mark where the two holes need to be drilled. Drill the 3mm holes and attach the HUB in place using 2 M2,5 screws with washers.
Don't forget to FIRST attach the acrylic stand before inserting it in the case. This can't be done later :-)
Step 4: Install the ATX RASPI Board and Tighten It Using 4 Screws
Step 5: Install / Solder the LED Switch
Solder 4 jumper wires to the button in the following way:
5v and Ground for the LED (see picture) and COM + NO O for the signal / Switch
Then put shrinking tube around the connectors and install the button through the 16mm opening in the case.
Firmly attach the ring and (optional) rubber seal.
Step 6: Connect the Switch to the ATX Raspi Board
Connect the jumper wires to the ATX board as shown on the pictures.
Make sure you orient the LED wires in the right direction 5V to the + and Ground to the -
The signal/switch wires can be in either direction and are located RIGHT next to the LED+ and - pins.
See pictures for correct orienting...
Step 7: Install / Make the Power Cable to the USB Hub and ATX RASPI
This is a very fun and important step: giving power to the USB hub.
First CUT the power cord so you have about 8cm length including the connector.
Strip the wire so you have about 3cm of red and black wire exposed. Now put on FEMALE crimp connectors and slide them in a dual housing so that the end result looks like pic one.
Now attach the female headers to the ATX RASPI (be careful of the orientation!) and the other end to the USB HUB.
Step 8: Install the Custom Jumper-wire and Signal Wire and Pi
Note: The blue and white wires (shown on picture) are preferably custom crimped / created for optimal performance: I make them a bit thicker than the standard jumper-cables. The POWER LED on the Raspberry PI will be RED at all times if you have a right power supply. If you use bad quality wiring or a inappropriate power source the RED led will BLINK and this will effect the stability/performance.
Connect the wire like this BE VERY CAREFUL TO MAKE SURE THAT THE BLUE WIRE GOES ON THE POSITIVE (+) PIN (right pin). Making a mistake here can damage your Pi!
Get the other jumper-wire (signal to Pi) and connect it next to the Power Jumper-Wire
Where are the wires for???
The Raspberry Pi will get power directly from the ATX RASPi board through the GPIO pins.
The ATX RASPI board will use PIN 24 and 26 to check the state of the Pi so it knows how to shut it off, reset it and turn it on. This is a great idea because most projects require the user to manually connect and disconnect the micro USB cable directly in the Pi. Beside the lack of professionally this is not the proper way to power off the Pi. The ATX RASPI makes life a lot easier ;-)
Before we go to the next (and most rewarding) step:
Flatten the cables a bit and place them in between the stand off's as shown on the last picture.
Step 9: Attach the Pi in the Case (Update: Removal of USB Port No Longer Needed)
For the design to be as clean as possible we will use the original HDMI COMPOSITE and SD card slot on the Pi.
Unfortunately the micro USB port sticks out a bit too far so for the Pi to sit nicely against the walls we need to remove the Micro USB port.
Don't de-solder or use a heat gun but instead:
The best solution is using cutting pliers and carefully snapping the Micro USB port of the pcb. If you did it correctly your Pi will look like pic one. note: You can still use your Pi for all other projects. Just power it through the GPIO pins (like we are doing in this project) or feed 5v through the USB B ports. :-D
NOTE: With the new design (V2) it is NO longer needed to remove the micro usb port!
Attach the Pi on the stand-off's with 4 M2,5 screws
User Question: Why do I need to remove the USB port and didn't you just design a opening in the case???!! Why?
Very easy: The Nin10do will 'die' if you accidentally insert 5v into the Pi AND insert 5v into the ATX-RASPI board.
Having two the same micro usb input holes in the back is 'asking for trouble'. Of course I can easily change the design and put a 'warning sticker' of some kind over the hole but this doesn't look right. I found that the removal of the USB port is the best, safest and most professional solution.
Step 10: Connect the Power and Signal Wires to the GPIO Pins
Now attach the POWER jumper wires (Blue = 5v White = ground) to PIN 4 (5v) and PIN 6 (ground) BE CAREFUL NOT TO ATTACH THE WIRES TO OTHER PINS AS THIS WILL DAMAGE BOTH THE PI AND THE ATX RASPI BOARD
Now attach the jumper (signal) wires to PIN 26 and 24 as shown on picture. Note: THE OUTGOING ARROW ON THE ATX BOARD NEEDS TO BE CONNECTED TO PIN 26 (red wire on picture but your colour may vary of course)
Step 11: Connect the Mini USB Cable to the Pi and USB HUB
You have received a long USB mini cable with your Logilink USB hub.
You need this cable to be shortened to about 8 cm in length.
There are many ways to do this. You could cut the cable and resolder it together. A better way (this is how I make all the Nin10do consoles) is to cut the cable and create a new USB B connector on the other end. You can buy separate USB connectors online or in my Nin10doshop.
Don't forget to google the correct USB pin layout ;-)
Now connect the custom USB cable to the Pi and USB hub
Step 12: Optional: Glue the Acrylic Usb Mount in Place
If you know that everything works you can glue/weld the acrylic USB mount in place. After this step the USB HUB will be difficult to remove so make sure you test your Nin10do first!
Step 13: Mount (not Glue) the Top in Place and Insert You Pre-installed Micro SD Card
Yeeej almost done!
Now we can fit the cover in place and insert the pre-installed SD card.
HOW DO I GET A PRE-INSTALLED SD CARD????
Stop wining ;-) you can find a tutorial here on Instructables :-D
Don't forget to install the bash script made by LowPowerLab for the ATX RASPI board:
Go to the terminal and make sure you have a internet connection:
sudo bash shutdownchecksetup.sh
sudo rm shutdownchecksetup.sh
Now the system will reboot and can be turned on and off using the LED switch.
To turn the Nin10do on: Press the button once (the led will light up and the Nin10do will start)
To turn off the Nin10do: press and hold the button for about 5 sec (the light will start blinking and the Raspberry will close all programs and services after which the power will be shut down)
To reset the Nin10do: press and hold the button for about 2 sec (the light will blink fast and the Raspberry will rest itself
Step 14: Final Words
I hope that you will have a lot of fun with this retro style console!
For the last several years I create and design projects and share them for free online.
If you are interested in my other game consoles take a look at my 3d printed Nin10do with animated led's and a fully automatic opening cover
Creating these projects take a lot of effort and hard-work. Please support my work by giving me credit when using my designs and building your own system.
You can stay in touch by Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/raspberrynin10do/
You can buy complete hand-built console's / DIY kits cases and accessories here: http://www.nin10doshop.com/
Raspberry / Arduino / Python and more pics: https://www.instagram.com/raspi_nin10do/
I am thinking of selling copy's of the Illustrator design for a few euro's so it will be easy to create this case yourself. Contact me if this interests you. Of course you can get the cases pre-cut in my shop already.