Picture of IRONMAN 2 suit (mark 4 & 6)
Screen Shot 2013-08-18 at 8.50.46 AM.png

Here's the DIY of IRONMAN 2!
This is my first experience doing something like this and I want to share it, 4 long months working all weekends. This is the pepakura method, so you need a lot of patience.

"Get ready for..." Stage

First list of material:
Paper Cardstock
Hot Glue
Your PC and Printer
Pepakura Viewer software

DOWNLOAD Pepakura software.

DOWNLOAD Pepakura files.




(Updated on JUN 12, 2012)
Thanks to ROBO for this awesome files!!! the best 3D model of ironman on the web!

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Step 1: "Print - cut - Paste"

Once you have all the files in your PC, you proceed to print each part.

Cutting the pieces by the solid line.

The dotted line is for "mountain" folding and the dot-line-dot is for "valley" folding.

Match each tab with its corresponding number using hot glue, helped with the Pepakura Viewer to identify easily each piece.

Do the same with all the parts one by one to avoid confusing the pieces.

TIP: Save each printed & cutted page of the part in numbered folders for easy identifying.

Step 2: "Fiberglassing"

Second list of material:
Fiber glass resin (with its hardener)
Fiber glass mat
Aluminium foil
Aerosol Can Lubricant (WD-40)
Paint Brushes
Protective Eye Glasses
Dremel Tool

Prapare a table with Aluminium foil, spray lubricant over it. This will help us to avoid the resin stick to the table.

Cut the Fiber Glass mat in small or big strips depending on the part size.

Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator. Mix a small portion of the resin (I used 1/4 of a cup) with the catalyst (10 to 20 drops, depending on the weather, if it's hot, with 10 drops it's ok. As long as you work with this you will know how many drops you'll need). Once the catalyst is added, you will only have 15 minutes to work with it aprox.

Start applying one strip of Fiberglass Mat, and resin over it in the inner side of the part. Repeat this until you have all the part cover it.
After applying the first layer let dry about 15 mins, and continue with the second layer. This is really important on the big parts, like the chest, back, legs, helmet etc, because 1 layer stills flexible and weak.

Resin the outside of the part very well and letting it dry 24 hours.

After the part is solid to the touch, trim the excess of fiber glass mat using the dremel tool .

TIP: Let dry the parts under the sunlight, the heat accelerates the drying process. 

Step 3: "Body Filler / Sanding"

Material list:
Body Filler (with its hardener)
Spot Putty
Wood piece (surface for mixing)
40 grit Sandpaper
150 grit Sandpaper
600 grit Sandpaper
Rubber Sanding Block
Wet rag
Protective Eye Glasses
Dremel Tool

Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator. Mix very well a small portion of the body filler and hardener until you have a one color mix.

Here's my technique.

First body filler layer: Using the squeegee, apply body filler all over the part to give some body trying to let a smooth finish, let it dry some minutes (time depends on the amount of catalyst) until it is perfectly solid. Using 40 grid Sandpaper and the Rubber Sanding Block, sand it just to remove the sharp points and edges. Clean up the dust with the wet rag.

Second body filler layer: Apply body filler giving the necessary rounded shape of the part, and let it dry. Sand it with the 40 grid Sandpaper and the Rubber Sanding Block. After the surface is smooth, use the 150 grit Sandpaper and sand it again and you'll notice a smoothest surface. Clean up with the wet rag.

Third body filler layer: Watch for voids and imperfections, apply body filler to it. Sand it using the 150 grit Sandpaper. Clean up with the wet rag. Now you should have an almost perfect shape of the part.

Using the squeegee apply one very thin layer of Spot Putty to all the surface, as thin the layer is, the fastest it will dry. After some minutes with the Spot Putty dried, sand it using the 600 grit Sandpaper, Clean up with the wet rag again.

Use the dremel tool for line details, or any other kind of detail you need or want.

TIP: if you notice a deep void after applying and sanding the Spot Putty, fill it up with body filler, sand it, and apply again Spot putty and sand it. Is easier repair big or deep imperfections with body filler rather than Spot potty because of the drying time.

Step 4: Shoes & Hardware

Can of foam
4 Screws (1/4")
Protective Eye Glasses
Dremel Tool

The shoes need to be filled to support the weight.

After assembling the 3 parts of the shoes, drill a hole in front of the shoe, and another hole on the back using the dremel tool.

Fill it with foam and let it dry 24 hours.The shoe now should support a person.

To link the forearm and the bicep, drill a 1/4" hole on the biceps and elbow as shown in the photo. (this can be performed after or before primer, I did it after apply primer)

Step 5: Priming and painting

Primer (sandable)
1000 or 2000 grit Water Sandpaper
Water bucket
Chrome paint
Gold paint
Red paint
Clear paint
Masking Tape
Protective Eye Glasses

Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator. Apply sandable primer to all the parts (2 layers)

Let it dry at least 30-60 mins.

Fill the bucket with water. Wet the part with the sponge and sand the parts using the 1000 or 2000 grit Water Sandpaper. Sand it trying to do not remove the primer at all (if you remove some primer at the edges it's ok).

Now you can start with the fun stage, where all your work will get shiny and awesome.

Paint all the parts with chrome paint, you'll be impressed of how good it looks.
Apply 2 coats letting dry at least 30 mins between coats.
The chrome is the base color in order that you'll have a metallic finish.

After 24 hours you can continue with the gold coat, paint all the gold details and parts. There's no problem if you paint accidentally some area that should be red.

Wait another 24 hours and cover with newspaper and masking tape areas that should be chrome or gold. Now you can apply 2 to 4 coats of the red paint depending on the intense of color that you want. 

Let the parts dry for at least  3-5 days, and now you are ready to assembly and wear them!

Step 6: Lighting up the eyes, chest, and hands.

25 LEDs (3-5 volts)
Speaker wire (25 ft aprox)
Insulator tape
Wire Stripping Pliers
2 AA battery case
2 AA batteries
Red Gloves
Hot glue
Plastic folder
Reflective shades
Dremel Tool
Eye protection glasses

Place 2 leds on each eye using hot glue.
Remove from a reflective shades, the "cristals" and paste them on the eyes with hot glue.

For the chest light, arrange several LEDs (15) in a piece of cardboard, and secure with hot glue.

Assembly all the finger pieces on a plastic glove. Paste them with hot glue.

Use 3 LED's for each hand, paste them with hot glue.
These LED's will turn on just when the hand is open, for doing this, we'll let the circuit open on a finger (as shown in the photo), in order that when the hand is open, the circuit will close and the LED's will turn on.

Using your eye protection glasses and dremel tool, cut 2 small circles and a triangle from the plastic for the hands and chest piece. The plastic can be any rigid plastic, I used an old plastic folder

Now you can wire everything (using solder and insulator tape) to the 2 AA battery case that should be mounted on the inner chest with hot glue as shown in the photo.

Mount a switch and connect it as well to the 2 AA battery case.

Step 7: Details

Super glue (or equivalent)
Red vinyl
Hot glue

Cut some ruber for the shoes and paste it in place using super glue.

Cut red vinyl strips forming the neck seal, paste them using hot glue.
Add a piece of velcro on the back for easy open-close of the neckseal.

Step 8: Finished!!

Now you have to use velcro for join all parts together and wear it!

Enjoy your own suit!

Here's a mini vid.




Step 9: 2012 UPGRADES


I made some upgrades for this halloween to my old costume, here´s a quick list:
-New helmet to make it automatised
-New chest to make it mark IV
-New paint job with automotive real paint
-New back part (the old one has an accident...lol)
-Enhanced assembly parts
-New Led Eyes

Step 10: How it looks now

Here´s some of my halloween party pics.

Step 11: High Resolution Pctures

Here links to High resolution pictures from each part of the suit.









right LEG

left LEG


1-40 of 370Next »
digg44443 years ago
I downloaded the pepakura... the right shin left shin r the same! same thing w/ the right/left handplate...any suggestions?
same w/ shoulders, thighs and biceps
sekkei (author)  digg44443 years ago
HEY! Sorry for the delay...
Here's a thing! some pieces are the same in the 3D model (left and right),
but if you take a look closely they are not the same, try to print them and you will notice the difference, I really have not idea why the 3D model doesn't change when flip is apply to parts.
Other pieces, like the hand plate, are just the same for both sides.
aky125 made it!1 hour ago

I made the helmet, but it is so small for my big head :) so I'll begin with a bigger one. Also, I used thick cardboard, which makes it imposible to make the small details and curvatures, so I'll use a thiner one.

2015-07-30 21.52.15.jpg
kdewitt2 days ago

I can't find the link. the link at the beginning of this file apparently no longer exists. Any idea where I can find the paper files to make this pattern?


DerryW14 days ago

So when I try to print out the helmet, part of the eye won't print with the rest. When I view the helmet in pepakura the pieces that won't print aren't in the white tiles like the rest of the pieces, they're in the grey area. Thanks

sekkei (author)  DerryW14 days ago
You don't need those pieces, that's why they are in the gray area
DerryW sekkei14 days ago

Thanks it looked like we needed them but it seems like it just covers up the eye

sknipas7 made it!2 months ago
I made this costume a while back (2012-2013) using recycled materials.
I used empty beer cans ( after cutting top and bottom of the can making aluminum sheets of the rest ) and using toner transfer method for the pepakura printed pieces. Then after cutting them I used a hot glue gun to glue pieces together. After that I applied newspaper pieces soaked into PVA glue ( Disney's art attack method).
Next I used sandpaper to smooth the pieces and finally I applied primer and spray paint.
It was a very cheap build( 70 euros - 80$ total), very light (6 or 7 kg) and pretty durable.
ChrisP242 months ago

Hey I'm thinking about trying this, but there is currently no file in the "Shoulder R" folder. If you could please update this I'd greatly appreciate it! I would hate to size every piece and not end up having the right shoulder.

hey, wich papersize did u use? 297x210mm?

arjunmenonman3 months ago

Hello , I live in Brazil . Too like your project. Congratulations ! What is your time .... This design was made to its correct dimensions ?
I have 1.87 in height ....

I'm waiting!

JOKOT19 months ago

MATUR NUWUN sampun upload gambaripun,kulo ajeng ndamel patungipun

hub kulo083842693313 joko tri sabdo

fendyr JOKOT13 months ago

walah lha niki sanes patung e pakde..niki damel cosplay.. :D

basa Jawa masuk Instructable rek..hehe.. NIce!

gostaria de fazer vc pode mandar os moldes pra mim



Hello. How much did it cost you to make the hole project? I have started building it on my own, with cardboard and EVA foam but I think your idea is much much better.

Mewplayer643 months ago

Hi! I think you should update this one or make another for the mark 42 suit!

Aslitis4 months ago

Hi, I'm 5'6'' and 107.8lbs ... what scale should I use?

whipey3455 months ago

how to do you get in the suit?

whipey3455 months ago

how much did it cost you to build the entire thing because i want to build one and i am just a 12 year old

faleya.rayyan5 months ago

Hi, i got problem here... i doesn't know how to measure a chest and back of ironman pepakura file.... can you help me,,, please

MWard4016 months ago

hey could you pleeeeaaaaaase send me the picture and not the links of the armor all of them would be appreciated send to MWard401@kirksville.k12.mo.us

AniP17 months ago

Hey! Um, As you can probably see I'm a girl... And I was wondering if this suit design and stuff would work with my... let's say, female body specifications lol xD I'd really like to make this at some point but I don't want to download the files and everything if it's not going to work!
I was also wondering how long it took you to do this? If you stated it above then I apologise, I must have over looked it but yeah, would I need more than 3/4 weeks? lol thanks in advance!! This is really amazing work lol xD -AP

Raksayarth AniP16 months ago

You would probably use the same method he states in this Instructable, except you will have to find other different Pepakura files than the ones he used, ones specifically designed to accommodate your...ah...female body differences. You will be able to use most of the ones here, probably excepting the torso and possibly the pelvic piece as well. I hope this helps.

comidaa7 months ago

AMAZING! Amazing, Just got myself free Pax Sivir for League of Legends. Check it out it really works!

Try it out now at: http://bit.ly/FreePaxSivir

AniP17 months ago

Hey! Um, As you can probably see I'm a girl... And I was wondering if this suit design and stuff would work with my... let's say, female body specifications lol xD I'd really like to make this at some point but I don't want to download the files and everything if it's not going to work!
I was also wondering how long it took you to do this? If you stated it above then I apologise, I must have over looked it but yeah, would I need more than 3/4 weeks? lol thanks in advance!! This is really amazing work lol xD -AP

AniP17 months ago

Hey! Um, As you can probably see I'm a girl... And I was wondering if this suit design and stuff would work with my... let's say, female body specifications lol xD I'd really like to make this at some point but I don't want to download the files and everything if it's not going to work!
I was also wondering how long it took you to do this? If you stated it above then I apologise, I must have over looked it but yeah, would I need more than 3/4 weeks? lol thanks in advance!! This is really amazing work lol xD -AP

senshidojo7 months ago

love it!!!

I'm in the process of building the Mark IV using your process and I noticed that there is some sort of under armor under the chest and under the back piece. Is this the collar plate? as it looks to be one piece. Or is it something else?

Can you help? Thanks

DayatS18 months ago

I have just downloaded the files. Thank you so much for sharing this :)

ola amigo bom dia, adorei o trabalho, mas não consegui baixar em pdf, poderia enviar o projeto em pdf para meu e-mail: david.jus.87@gmail.com. obrigado bom dia.

AndreR18 months ago

this is awesome! best one shown on instructables.i definitely wan't to make one like that.by the way how would you light up the eyes?

oud254 years ago
where did u get the PEPAKURA file?
CATP12 oud258 months ago

The pepakura file is on the first page of this Instructable. Copy and past the link given and you will come to a page that you can download the parts. If you need Pepakura Veiwer or Designer, go to this link: http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/

wraith1098 months ago

I would like to use this method on another project, and I am curious, can I use fiberglass resin on poster board foam?

ChrisReezy78 months ago

is the cardstock paper you used white or what color?

It looks like he used white but that isn't a big deal because it will be covered with body filler and paint.

trinity959 months ago

hey i am having troubles downloading the files i got the shins and thighs and spine but everything else is an empty file folder but the shins, thighs, and spine are all pdo files any idea why its doing this?

dhaughewald9 months ago

How tall are you? How important would body type customizations be in your opinion? I'm currently about 5'9" or so, would you suggest any major changes for my build?

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