Introduction: IRONMAN 2 Suit (mark 4 & 6)

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Here's the DIY of IRONMAN 2!
This is my first experience doing something like this and I want to share it, 4 long months working all weekends. This is the pepakura method, so you need a lot of patience.

"Get ready for..." Stage

First list of material:
Scisors
Knife
Paper Cardstock
Hot Glue
Your PC and Printer
Pepakura Viewer software


DOWNLOAD Pepakura software.
http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/

DOWNLOAD Pepakura files.

UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!! (may 25, 2014)

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BzSz7qHBFd0aSUw2VjNDXzdFN1k&usp=sharing


UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!!UPDATED!!! (may 25, 2014)

(Updated on JUN 12, 2012)
Thanks to ROBO for this awesome files!!! the best 3D model of ironman on the web!

Step 1: "Print - Cut - Paste"

Once you have all the files in your PC, you proceed to print each part.

Cutting the pieces by the solid line.

The dotted line is for "mountain" folding and the dot-line-dot is for "valley" folding.

Match each tab with its corresponding number using hot glue, helped with the Pepakura Viewer to identify easily each piece.

Do the same with all the parts one by one to avoid confusing the pieces.

TIP: Save each printed & cutted page of the part in numbered folders for easy identifying.

Step 2: "Fiberglassing"

Second list of material:
Fiber glass resin (with its hardener)
Fiber glass mat
Scissors
Aluminium foil
Aerosol Can Lubricant (WD-40)
Gloves
Paint Brushes
Respirator
Protective Eye Glasses
Dremel Tool

Prapare a table with Aluminium foil, spray lubricant over it. This will help us to avoid the resin stick to the table.

Cut the Fiber Glass mat in small or big strips depending on the part size.

Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator. Mix a small portion of the resin (I used 1/4 of a cup) with the catalyst (10 to 20 drops, depending on the weather, if it's hot, with 10 drops it's ok. As long as you work with this you will know how many drops you'll need). Once the catalyst is added, you will only have 15 minutes to work with it aprox.

Start applying one strip of Fiberglass Mat, and resin over it in the inner side of the part. Repeat this until you have all the part cover it.
After applying the first layer let dry about 15 mins, and continue with the second layer. This is really important on the big parts, like the chest, back, legs, helmet etc, because 1 layer stills flexible and weak.

Resin the outside of the part very well and letting it dry 24 hours.

After the part is solid to the touch, trim the excess of fiber glass mat using the dremel tool .

TIP: Let dry the parts under the sunlight, the heat accelerates the drying process. 

Step 3: "Body Filler / Sanding"

Material list:
Body Filler (with its hardener)
Spot Putty
Squeegee
Wood piece (surface for mixing)
40 grit Sandpaper
150 grit Sandpaper
600 grit Sandpaper
Rubber Sanding Block
Wet rag
Gloves
Respirator
Protective Eye Glasses
Dremel Tool

Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator. Mix very well a small portion of the body filler and hardener until you have a one color mix.

Here's my technique.

First body filler layer: Using the squeegee, apply body filler all over the part to give some body trying to let a smooth finish, let it dry some minutes (time depends on the amount of catalyst) until it is perfectly solid. Using 40 grid Sandpaper and the Rubber Sanding Block, sand it just to remove the sharp points and edges. Clean up the dust with the wet rag.

Second body filler layer: Apply body filler giving the necessary rounded shape of the part, and let it dry. Sand it with the 40 grid Sandpaper and the Rubber Sanding Block. After the surface is smooth, use the 150 grit Sandpaper and sand it again and you'll notice a smoothest surface. Clean up with the wet rag.

Third body filler layer: Watch for voids and imperfections, apply body filler to it. Sand it using the 150 grit Sandpaper. Clean up with the wet rag. Now you should have an almost perfect shape of the part.

Using the squeegee apply one very thin layer of Spot Putty to all the surface, as thin the layer is, the fastest it will dry. After some minutes with the Spot Putty dried, sand it using the 600 grit Sandpaper, Clean up with the wet rag again.

Use the dremel tool for line details, or any other kind of detail you need or want.

TIP: if you notice a deep void after applying and sanding the Spot Putty, fill it up with body filler, sand it, and apply again Spot putty and sand it. Is easier repair big or deep imperfections with body filler rather than Spot potty because of the drying time.

Step 4: Shoes & Hardware

Material:
Can of foam
4 Screws (1/4")
Gloves
Protective Eye Glasses
Dremel Tool

The shoes need to be filled to support the weight.

After assembling the 3 parts of the shoes, drill a hole in front of the shoe, and another hole on the back using the dremel tool.

Fill it with foam and let it dry 24 hours.The shoe now should support a person.

To link the forearm and the bicep, drill a 1/4" hole on the biceps and elbow as shown in the photo. (this can be performed after or before primer, I did it after apply primer)

Step 5: Priming and Painting

Materials:
Primer (sandable)
1000 or 2000 grit Water Sandpaper
Water bucket
Chrome paint
Gold paint
Red paint
Clear paint
Masking Tape
newspaper
Sponge
Rag
Gloves
Respirator
Protective Eye Glasses

Put your gloves, protective eye glasses and respirator. Apply sandable primer to all the parts (2 layers)

Let it dry at least 30-60 mins.

Fill the bucket with water. Wet the part with the sponge and sand the parts using the 1000 or 2000 grit Water Sandpaper. Sand it trying to do not remove the primer at all (if you remove some primer at the edges it's ok).

Now you can start with the fun stage, where all your work will get shiny and awesome.

Paint all the parts with chrome paint, you'll be impressed of how good it looks.
Apply 2 coats letting dry at least 30 mins between coats.
The chrome is the base color in order that you'll have a metallic finish.

After 24 hours you can continue with the gold coat, paint all the gold details and parts. There's no problem if you paint accidentally some area that should be red.

Wait another 24 hours and cover with newspaper and masking tape areas that should be chrome or gold. Now you can apply 2 to 4 coats of the red paint depending on the intense of color that you want. 

Let the parts dry for at least  3-5 days, and now you are ready to assembly and wear them!

Step 6: Lighting Up the Eyes, Chest, and Hands.

Material:
25 LEDs (3-5 volts)
Speaker wire (25 ft aprox)
Solder
Insulator tape
Wire Stripping Pliers
2 AA battery case
2 AA batteries
Red Gloves
Switch
Hot glue
Plastic folder
Reflective shades
Dremel Tool
Eye protection glasses

Place 2 leds on each eye using hot glue.
Remove from a reflective shades, the "cristals" and paste them on the eyes with hot glue.

For the chest light, arrange several LEDs (15) in a piece of cardboard, and secure with hot glue.

Assembly all the finger pieces on a plastic glove. Paste them with hot glue.

Use 3 LED's for each hand, paste them with hot glue.
These LED's will turn on just when the hand is open, for doing this, we'll let the circuit open on a finger (as shown in the photo), in order that when the hand is open, the circuit will close and the LED's will turn on.

Using your eye protection glasses and dremel tool, cut 2 small circles and a triangle from the plastic for the hands and chest piece. The plastic can be any rigid plastic, I used an old plastic folder

Now you can wire everything (using solder and insulator tape) to the 2 AA battery case that should be mounted on the inner chest with hot glue as shown in the photo.

Mount a switch and connect it as well to the 2 AA battery case.

Step 7: Details

Material:
Ruber
Super glue (or equivalent)
Red vinyl
Hot glue
Scissors

Cut some ruber for the shoes and paste it in place using super glue.

Cut red vinyl strips forming the neck seal, paste them using hot glue.
Add a piece of velcro on the back for easy open-close of the neckseal.

Step 8: Finished!!

Now you have to use velcro for join all parts together and wear it!

Enjoy your own suit!

Here's a mini vid.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ST56UpgIAQ


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Attachments

Step 9: 2012 UPGRADES



HI EVERYONE!

I made some upgrades for this halloween to my old costume, here´s a quick list:
-New helmet to make it automatised
-New chest to make it mark IV
-New paint job with automotive real paint
-New back part (the old one has an accident...lol)
-Enhanced assembly parts
-New Led Eyes

Step 10: How It Looks Now

Here´s some of my halloween party pics.

Attachments

Step 11: High Resolution Pctures

Here links to High resolution pictures from each part of the suit.

HELMET
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916748/

NECK SEAL
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916817/

CHEST
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916801/

ABS
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916812/

BACK 
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916791/

ARMS
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916808/

SHOULDERS
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916813/

HANDS
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916744/

right LEG
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916783/

left LEG
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916798/

SHOES
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9916827/

MARK VI CHEST
http://imageshack.us/g/1/9920811/

Halloween Contest

Third Prize in the
Halloween Contest

What Can You Do with a Dremel Tool?

Runner Up in the
What Can You Do with a Dremel Tool?