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Ice claws

Ice claws
20 days ago I was in the field. And there was snow and ice...and I slip down. So, I decided to buy ice cleats/crampons. Well, here was limit on real alps high quality stuffs ... i.e. high prices. So, went to nearby metalworking shop...
 
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See.
T profile plate 2 mm thick. with holes for screws. Zinc protected against rust. A 25 mm steel screws, zinc protected, for metal. Self drive in.
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52 comments
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May 14, 2011. 2:53 PMDWordDtour says:
where could i get T-profile plates?
Apr 7, 2011. 2:42 AMFerguson199 says:
These are nice, I may be making my self a pair in the next few days. Only thing I would do is not cut the first few screw holes like you did because you will get more traction and the center of your feet won't be a high point.

I'll be using 1/4" screws the 1" you've got there seem a bit long.

Good job on making these!
Apr 1, 2011. 12:14 PMwario235 says:
I'm a big fan. I could've used this instructable a few months ago, b/c it was pretty slick out where I'm at. I'll be doing this for next winter.
Mar 20, 2011. 6:56 AMWasagi says:
Great Instructable! I'll definitely do this next winter!
Feb 26, 2011. 10:06 PMabadfart says:
very nice alternative to the big boot spikes of yesteryear i wish i had thees on yesterday... i might not have had to go to the ER
Jan 28, 2011. 8:45 PMYerboogieman says:
What's your name?
Jan 19, 2011. 4:29 AMsisar says:
nice one!! I'll make one and place it in my car, just in case I need it :P

thanks mate
Jan 20, 2011. 2:42 PMToddisI says:
ty ,
my school has an extreme team extra curiculum event three times a year. i am in one of those teams. tomarrow we are going to Farley Ledges... specificully radal snake mountain... for a search and rescue event... we already have a foot of snow, blanketed with a good two centemeter layer of ice... and tomarrow we are supposed to get more 6 more inches of snow while we are searching for one of our team members... and we will need to go through two caves which are icey... so i made 6 of these and now we are looking pretty pro!!!! i figured we should havea n advantage while we are only freshmen... TY! AGAIN!
Jan 19, 2011. 5:30 AMst33ve0 says:
Another thing to note is that zinc fumes from galvanized steel are toxic, and you can weld to galvanized steel, but you'll want to use a fume hood or do it in a well ventilated area with a fan going.
Jan 18, 2011. 6:39 AMtrike road poet says:
Serious project, perfect for out on the lake for ice fishing!
You have a clean easy design that will clearly give years of service.
.
If I might make one suggestion, use something like Sugru to make a pad that will fit the cleats of the chosen footwear over the heads of the screws, and you don't need to solder them in, making replacement or sharpening easier. The Sugru pad will hold the screws in place like a lock washer when molded around their heads. With the lock between the footwear treads and the heads on the plate, you would have real control.
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Also, consider a pad of Sugru that would pop in between the spikes to pad the floor when you when in to any store or such. In this way you don't need to take them off and put them back on again, just slip the simple pads in place and go on into the store or house with no fear of floor damage.
Jan 16, 2011. 9:23 AMalaskanbychoice says:
Great idea and I will be making some for work. One thing you should DELETE the part about using GASOLINE to clean. GASOLINE is probably the most dangerous thing handled on a daily basis by most people and using it for a cleaner is just asking to end up burned very badly or dead. Static electricity is enough to set of GASOLINE.
Jan 16, 2011. 10:46 AMcriggie says:
All well and good to say "don't do ..." but it helps more to provide a replacement suggestion.

I use petrol and turpentine for cleaning bike parts, or sometimes engine cleaner aerosol spray. For non oily things, a spray bottle with water and dishwash and a dish brush then a rince with the hose.

Your turn.
Jan 17, 2011. 9:24 AMtmack0 says:
I find Simplegreen works well for most stuff, especially for cleaning bike parts and other stuff without worrying about stripping the paint. Its also biodegradable and not carcinogenic like gasoline, not to mention non-flammable and safe to pour down the drain. The only reason to use oil based cleaners would be if using a parts washer that requires them for self lubrication, or if whatever you are washing cannot be exposed to water, and then should only use mineral oil or spirits. Isopropyl or denatured alcohol are also alternatives, but you have to watch out for their vapors. Gasoline(petrol) from stations actually contains a decent percentage alcohol as it is also quite flammable, just not as energy-dense.
Jan 17, 2011. 10:35 AMcriggie says:
"Gasoline(petrol) from stations actually contains a decent percentage alcohol as it is also quite flammable"

That depends on your location in the world. I know the US cut their fuel with ethanol to alter the RON, doubtless other places do. But not here in New Zealand.

I've never had a problem with paint being stripped by cleaning, unless its already loose and flaking or rusting.

And petrol (gasoline) is still cheaper per litre than all cleaners other than soapy water.
Decent gloves help protect the hands of course.
Jan 16, 2011. 11:14 AMalaskanbychoice says:
It's not easy finding the solution to a non-combustible solvent, at work we have switch to a eco friendly bio-degradable solvent ( though it is very expensive ). Hot soapy water usually does it for most parts. Dawn dish washing liquid works well for me. Boiling some items is another option if the parts will take the heat without harm and you do this outdoors. I know some people have even saved old ovens hooked them up outside and use them to bake stuff off and to even sterilize garden soils. A stiff wire brush and old paint brushes work wonders, may take longer, but far safer that GASOLINE.
Jan 25, 2011. 12:32 PMhstueckler says:
Lots of people overlook ammonia as a degreaser. It works extremely well. Of course, you have to avoid the vapors. Just thought I would add it to the list of commonly available degreasers. It is much cheaper than simple green, but I wouldn't gargle with it or anything.
Jan 16, 2011. 11:43 AMdaddymaker says:
Great Instructable - BUT BEWARE - this design of crampon has an inherent design flaw and is specifically NOT recommended for use on inclines. These are ok on flat surfaces as long as you keep your flat and your arch engaged.

I'm a former mountaineer and climber and the problem with this design (there have been several generations of similar commercial products) is that on an incline, it is not uncommon to have your toes pointing up-hill. When this happens the forefoot bends causing the traction screws along the arch of the foot to lift off the ice. The result is that only the toe part of the boot remains on the ice and you fall.

When descending the same sort of thing happens, also with bad results.

Mountaineering crampons, both flexible and rigid (used for high angle ice) have front points that provide positive traction for the front of your foot.

What I've written is a synopsis of the text found in Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, 5th Ed., page 270.

Again, great instructable, good design for flat surfaces, just don't plan to rely on them for situations where you'd encounter anything but flat terrain.
Jan 16, 2011. 1:18 PMjtpoutdoor says:
Instep crampons are great, but like you say not particularly suitable for slopes. I used to be a glacier guide and we only used insteps for the general walks ( full crampons only for ice climbing). We always cut step for the guided walks to keep everything reasonably flat for the clients- that said if you know how to use them you CAN go on reasonably steep slopes with good technique- as guides we used to get about on some quite sloping lines but tilting the foot and stamping hard.
Always lead your step with your instep - not the toe or heel.
Jan 17, 2011. 5:29 AMemptymag says:
Very nice for those of us that ice fish. We don't have to worry about walking up or down an incline. It figures I just bought a pair of cleats/crampons the day before.
Jan 16, 2011. 1:06 PMtwighahn says:
seems good
Jan 16, 2011. 11:00 AMbowdenja says:
Great idea! Simple and easy to do and for people who will only need them once or twice a year these will fit the bill!

Also try isopropyl alcohol for cleaning...... cleans goo off and not as explosive as gasoline.
Jan 16, 2011. 9:26 AMdewexdewex says:
Great hack! I bought some Yaktrax; they're pretty good, but these are way cooler!
Jan 16, 2011. 9:19 AMBtheBike says:
Great design for Ice hiking .
For Daily Icy use i took short (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch) screws and screwed them directly into the soles on some hiking shoes. The screw Heads provide good traction on ice ,and one doesn't have to remove them to go into the store or drive etc.. . They will also work well in slippery dirt ,mud and keep your soles from wearing out too quickly .
Jan 16, 2011. 8:06 AMKinnishian says:
From the thumbnail photo, I thought you had attached some crab claws to a boot, but that was just an orange leaf :)
Jan 16, 2011. 8:03 AMrj753 says:
beautiful pic and good idea!
Jan 16, 2011. 6:57 AMPuzzledd says:
Very clever idea and well done!
Jan 16, 2011. 6:50 AMmrendon703 says:
minnesota usa has similar winter weather - this is a good doable solution for winter walking
Jan 14, 2011. 2:47 PMVick Jr says:
I bought some cheap rubber crampon and the metal spikes came right out. Hopefully something like this will be a bit more sturdy.
Jan 12, 2011. 8:48 PMdrbill says:
Better known as krampons to ice climbers. It might be miss-spelled. I know what you are thinking and its not tampons
Jan 12, 2011. 3:25 PMUpir says:
What did you do to attack the strap and clips? I'm thinking pop-rivets, but was wondering what you used?
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