Step 6: Results
I'll repeat the safety warnings here.
Excecise caution and good sense when working with high voltage. Remove power from the system before making adjustements.
Don't touch the arcs. Be mindful that the potentials generated can jump a significant gap, and that insulation on tools like regular pliers may be inadequate to prevent you from getting a shock.
Keep in mind that some parts of the system can get hot. The arcs can be hot enough to to ignite paper and plastic, so operate it in a safe location.
High voltage discharges generate Ozone gas, which can cause irritation if breathed in. High voltage discharges also generate some ultraviolet radiation, so limit your exposure and don't stare directly at the arcs.
The first picture is a short time exposure showing the arcs from the high voltage output when used with a power supply of 14 volts. Note that they arcs are distinct blue streams, as opposed to hotter arcs.
The arcs become much hotter when a greater power supply voltage is used along with a higher driver frequency. The subsequent pictures show operation using higher power supply voltages. Notice that the arc is now a hot and yellow.
The video shows how the output arcs are affected by changes to the repetition frequency, switch on time, and power supply voltage.
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I would love to try your PC based circuit but I currently have no way of programming a PIC and have only Macintosh laptops at my disposal. I suppose I could invest in a PIC programmer and borrow a PC to just load the files on to the PIC. There are other projects such as the Aurora 9x18 RGB LED art (PIC24F08KA101) that also use a PIC from Microchip. Could I just buy the Microchip's PICkit 3 In-Circuit Debugger/Programmer? Would this work with the files you provide here?? Or could you sell me a few programmed PICs? I could also buy a few PICs and fedex to you for programming, if you would be willing to help me.
Also, could you send me a BOM for the parts list?
OK to email direct: kuriloff@nyhni.org
There is a misconception among some that an ignition coil operates like a Tesla coil. An igntion coil is actually an iron core transformer, with a turns ratio on the order of 75:1. Switching off the primary current causes the primary voltage to rise to several hundred volts, which is in turn stepped up by the turns ratio.
What is important is to have an idea of the inductance and the resistance of the primary, as that lets you determine the time constant. From there you can configure your pulse generator to turn the switch on for an appropriate length of time.
I'm not familiar with the PICkit 3 In-Circuit Debugger/Programmer. If it is a product made by Microchip for general in circuit programming then it should be able to be used. I have actually never programmed any parts using in circuit programming before, but I know that there is an app note on Microchips web site explaining what you need to do regarding connections to the processor.
The files I have attached should work regardless of the programmer you are using. You will have to use the 12F683 with the files supplied, unless you know how to update the source code for a different PIC and then assemble to get a hex file for programming the different PIC. That isn't terribly difficult if you know a bit about the assembly language.
I don't have a BOM of the circuit per se, but the schematic has manufacturers PNs for all the more critical parts, like the processor and the IGBT. The other stuff is just common resistors and caps. 1/4 Watt resistors work fine. The caps you select must be rated to handle whatever maximum voltage you plan on applying to them. For example, the ones on the input to the +5V regulator will see the power supply voltage, so select them depending on the max power supply voltage you intend to use.
Dan
The primary of an ignition coil has a fairly high inductance, and so the current can't be driven with a high enough "carrier frequency" which could then be modulated to produce any kind of reasonable quality audio. Flyback transformers are usually what is used for plasma speakers.
At any rate, the drive to the switch needs to be a digital signal to turn the switch either on or off, and so you wouldn't want to apply an analog signal directly to the gate/base of the switch you are using.
I asked because it is easier for me to get for free a ignition coil than a flyback.
One more question. What type of material should be used for the electrodes, so they would not melt after a couple of minutes of arc production?
The wires may get a little warm after producing arcs continously for a while.
I've only run the setup here for about 3 minutes at a time. If you are planning on making something to run for much longer, its best to check it out and see just how hot it gets. An of course, don't leave it unattended.