Step 7: Making the Leg Extensions

I bought a piece of 2"x4"x8' machined pine from the Home Depot. I cut four pieces at approximately 16" in length.

I then took my first measurement from the original legs (that I prepared in the previous step). I measured from the bottom of the leg to the start of notch. My second measurement was to figure out the width of the notch (Both are shown in the attached image). 

WIth this information I headed for the table saw again.

The first cut: Cutting the length of the notch
- I set the height of the saw blade to the same height as the width of the notch (tip. use the original leg as a guide)
- I then used the miter guide set to 90 degrees to cross cut the pieces at their marks. (see attached)

The second cut: Cutting the width of the notch
- I set the table saw to rip the width notch. 
- I also setup a stop that would prevent me from over cutting the piece. (You have to understand that when cutting on a table saw the amount of the material removed from the underside will be greater than what is visible from the top of the material, as show in the "Table Saw Cross Section" .
The third cut: Finishing the notch on the table saw
- I then flipped the piece over and moved the fence to the opposite side of the blade. (The reason I do this, is to be as safe as possible. You never want to have a small loose piece stuck between the blade and the fence. Chances are that it will shoot back at you). 
- I setup the stop again to prevent me from over cutting. 

Once the third cut was complete a small amount of material was left where the blade couldn't reach. I removed the material with a sharp chisel. 

I then drilled two holes in each leg of the original legs. This will be for the screws. 

I was now ready to glue and screw the leg extensions to the original legs.
essa e a ideia!!! muito bom....
This is fantastic, I actually bought the DALSELV (which you are correct is the previous name of this bed) and after a year of use I upholstered the headboard like you did because I couldn't stand leaning against it. Might use this to make it taller though, because that would definitely be nice too.
Great! Hope to see the pics if you ever decide to do it!
I love Ikea hacks! Awesome job!
It looks so good now - great job. :D
I've had a RYKENE bed for a couple of months now and it drives me nuts not having a proper headboard.&nbsp; I can live with the height, and the odd gunmetal-grey-pine-grain look of the frame, but if I get a chance I'm definitely giving it a proper headboard.<br> <br> On the topic of painted wood, the paint didn't cover the wood grain because if you put paint straight onto wood, it tends to soak in, giving an effect more like dying than painting.&nbsp; If you want to avoid this you should use a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primer_%28paint%29#Primers_for_wood" rel="nofollow">primer</a>, which gives an impermeable surface to the wood that your finish paint can sit on top of and not soak into the grain.
Primer totally makes sense and should definitely be used if you want a 100% solid colour. I guess the paint and primer in one that I used just isn't as good as the old fashioned way of priming first and then painting. <br> <br>Thanks for sharing your primer tip!

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