Step 7: Making Sapcers and Mounting the Bike

Now that the trainer is pretty much finished it is time to prepare to mount the bike. If you left enough room for the derailleur to function you will have to fill that space with something. I used plywood circles cut with a circle cutter.
This was very easy I just chucked the hole saw into the drill and started drilling holes in some scrap 3/4" plywood.
1. Select the size hole cutter that will leave a circle of wood just big enough to fit into the recess where your quick release spindle lock fits.
2. Cut as many spacers as you need to fill the space from the bike to the upright on each side. I tried to center the bike between the two uprights using more spaces on the left than the right side.

With spacers cut your ready to mount the bike.
1. Cut a piece of threaded rod the same diameter as your spindle and long enough to go through both uprights with about 1 1/2" sticking out either side.
2. Remove the spindle from the rear wheel and set the bike in the trainer.
3. Begin stacking spacers between the bike and the inside of the uprights until you have a tight fit. (You may have to split a spacer to make it thinner. You can use a knife or chisel for this luckily the plywood is made in easily separated layers so you can get just the right thickness.
4. Once you have established the number of spacers start the threaded rod in through one upright and add spacers till you get to the wheel hub pass the rod through the hub and add spacers to the other side till you reach the other upright
5. Add a flat washer and a wing nut to each end of the threaded rod and tighten things down.

Now the bike is mounted and if your pedals spin without contacting the bearing supports you're done.
My pedals hit the bearing supports so I had to trim them off at an angle no big deal I used the jig saw and made the two cuts in less than a minute as you can see in the final pic.
<p>Thank you very much for this idea.</p>
thank you so much now I have a platform for my motor to generate a.c. motor to a.c. compacitor
<p>Easy ghetto power generator.</p>
Omg. U jst inspired me on ma project, GOD bless ur knowledge
<p>This inspired me to make my own. However I did modify few points. I bought a set of BMX pegs. Recycled some wood I had lying around in the garage and constructed a mount of sort. It works! Thanks!</p>
<p>Southern Kentucky...long winters...yuk yuk. You're crackin' me up. (Come see us in MN anytime between Oct and May, aka winter.) Great 'ible. Thanks :)</p>
Haha, cool idea!
Why not run some ducting off of that fan and use the airflow produced while pedaling to help keep you cool?
Not a bad idea. The air is tunneled thru the base and out the front already, so really all that i'd have to do is add a piece to the front to deflect the stream of air upwards.
Would constricting the airflow increase the resistance felt when pedalling?
I believe in theory reducing the ammount of air flow would increase the resistance but the resistence is very high as it is because the fan is quite large. The resistence increases proportionally with the speed of the fan so shifting into a higher gear increases the resistance. I would recommend increasing the axle diameter to decrease the fan speed because I have never been able to ride above the lowest gear.
It would, but you will want to restrict the inlet so air is thrown out creating your own little vacuum which makes it mad so it tries to stop you.
This is exactly what i need to set up in front of the tv and just pedal. Its way to expensive to buy one even with my store discount.
Very nice instructable. Gonna have to try this out. I love the extra block of wood you used to level out the bike. I don't think I would enjoy going &quot;down hill&quot; inside the house... It took me a little while to figure out what the fan is for but you pointed it out. <br> <br>Thanks agin and good job.
I did one of these, too. But it holds the rear wheel an inch over the soil by the axis, and keep it in its central position by means of two little wood wheels. I made the mistake of underestimating the effect of friction on the axis of these wheels, which causes that after a few minutes of pedaling they overheat and I must stop. I have to replace the shafts with ball bearings, I will do it next winter.
You did a nice job. I did something similar quite a number of years ago, but used only the resistance of the tires on my roller and no fan. (I have two photos.) I used 1/2&quot; steel shaft in bearings with 1/2&quot; ID, but ganged up 5&quot; squares of 3/4&quot; pine. Each had a 1/2&quot; hole at the center. I slid them onto the shaft and glued them together. I turned the ganged squares to make a round cylinder using a spinning circular saw blade set sideways. That part was easy because I have a radial arm saw and could push the whole assembly into the saw blade while manually advancing the rotation of the ganged squares until they were a nice round cylinder with a dip in the center. I had to pin the cylinder to the shaft so it did not turn on the shaft. <br><br>The rear axle is an inch or two over center to the rear of the cylinder's axle so the bike's rear wheel wants to go off of the cylinder to the rear. But, it cannot because there is a wheel chock behind the front wheel. To &quot;ride&quot; this trainer I position it in a doorway and use my shoulder to balance. (It was actually made for a different bike, so the rear wheel does not appear in the photo as &quot;over center&quot; as I described.)
Nice, I bet yours is a lot quieter than mine. When that fan gets to spinning it really humms.
Mine is rather noisy. The pieces of wood I sandwiched together creak on the shaft somehow. I have not used this roller support for a bike in recent years. All of the parts were free. Some renter left a home quickly and I drove by when the owners were setting out all sorts of stuff on the curb for the next garbage day.

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