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Indoor Wooden Castle

Step 3The build

The build
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I apologize that my building description is brief. I'm assuming if you are making this that you have some woodworking skills and have viewed the .pdf and sketchup drawings to see the dimensions and an idea of how it was constructed. One of my biggest challenges was getting it through my front door. I had to design the frame and walls in pieces and reassembled inside.

Begin by framing out the main room with 2x4's. Make the top and bottom following my drawings make note of the one top back piece that goes an extra 2 feet across the bridge area. Cut 4 2x4's to height and screw together the top and bottom frames. I'm sure you have been using proper eye and ear protection!
- Next cover the frame with plywood as seen in the photos and screw together using long wood screws. In order to use my plywood sheets efficiently the front panel is cut from three pieces. Glue, brackets and the top crown molding hold these pieces together. (Picture 1)
- Using a ruler, compass and jigsaw. Mark and cut out the window and door openings. Use a rounding bit on your router to smooth out both sides of the openings. It is difficult to get into the corners with the router so some hand sanding or dremel work may be required. I screwed in 2 temporary 2x4's across the bottom frame of the doors while I was building to help when moving it around.(Picture 1)
- When cutting the opening to the upper deck leave some space over the top floor level to account for the carpeting and padding. (Picture 1)
- Cut and router a handle to the upper level. Sizing it to your liking, but make sure you round it and sand very smooth.
- The floor for the top level is 3/4" plywood cut to fit the main area plus over the bridge. This can be screwed to the top frame every 12 inches or so.
- The top trim is made from mdf and using a jigsaw I cut out each 3 inch by 3 inch section. The ends are cut on 45 degree angles for a tight corner fit. Using a counter sink drill bit screw these to each of your panels and cover screw holes with wood filler.
- The top handrail is 1x4 cut to lenght with 45 degree angles. It was glued and nailed once inside the house. (Picture 2)
- The bottom trim is just standard pre-primed baseboard trim from the local home store. Using my brad nail gun I installed these pieces once inside.

- Building the step and storage unit is simply a 2x4 box with plywood top and side. I left the back and one side open since it would not be seen. The front was cut out with my jigsaw and rounded smooth with my router. I ended up cutting an opening in the main room for secret access to under the step.

- I was able to build the tower in one piece because of it's width. (Picture 3) Framed out with 2x4's as seen in my drawings I covered one side in 3/4" plywood and the other in 1/8 sheeting. I used MDF on the front angled pieces because I already had some, but there is no special reason. Setting my Craftsman table saw blade on an angle, I tried to cut the wood to make a smoother corner. But as you can see from all the filler, I didn't do a very good job. The firemans pole is secured to a 2x4 across the bottom and top using brackets. (Picture 4) The hole was cut as wide as the tower (2 feet) using a very large compass and jigsaw. (See picture of tools) The shelves where made from plywood cut to fit and I used 4 gray shelf angled brackets. (Picture 5)

- If you have the room or can take it outside like I did. I recommend putting it all together once before disassembling and installing. This gives you the chance to make sure everything fits and then sand, sand and sand some more. (Picture 6,7) It's also a good time to give it a coat of grey primer.
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1 comment
Dec 30, 2008. 6:37 PMRobotic_mage says:
Awesome Job, I have a seven year old, and a two year old, and I just recently made a castle bed for the seven year old, but yours really turned out really nice. RoboticMage
Jan 4, 2009. 8:44 AMa2m3a6d9a5 says:
(removed by author or community request)

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Author:Stryker