Introduction: Indoor Hammock Wall Mount

Picture of Indoor Hammock Wall Mount

I love hammocks so I wanted to try and sleep in one indoors. I live in an apartment but opening the big window makes it almost like sleeping outside.


  • Router with chamfer bit
  • Drill
  • Jig Saw


  • Wood - preferably some hard/durable type. I used oak: 4x 50mm*120mm*18mm
  • 2 Metal pins (I cut two screws)
  • 8 Screws + raw plugs (depending on your wall - I have brick walls)
  • Finish - I used kitchen table oil
  • Rope
  • Hammock


  • Wood: Only make the inner hole as wide as needed for the rope to fit. I wasn't sure what rope I wanted to use so mine is wider than needed. Obviously narrower = more strength.
  • Metal pins: Use proper pins if you have them. If you cut some from screws like I did then make sure to use fairly big screws (mine have 4mm diameter) that are long enough so you only use the unthreaded part.
  • Studs: I have brick walls so spreading out the screws as much as possible was ideal. If you have studs then I'd recommend using 2 screws instead of 4 and aim for the centre of the stud. The screws should be as long as possible and you might want to test somewhere else if you need to drill a small pilot hole or not.
  • Concrete: I'd probably use 2 long expansion screws/bolts instead of 4 screws.

Step 1: Cut + Glue

Picture of Cut + Glue
  1. Drill, cut and mill (sorry - I didn't take any pictures of the actual process but it's a simple build:)
    1. I recommend drilling, sawing and milling the inner holes first as it's easier to handle the router when you have a bigger surface.
      1. Notice that the grove for the metal pins is cut in the back plate.
    2. Cut the metal pins in the right length
      1. I didn't have any metal pins lying around so I cut two screws instead using only the unthreaded part.
    3. Glue together the plates (remember the pins)

    Step 2: Apply Finish and Mount It on the Walls

    Picture of Apply Finish and Mount It on the Walls

    I used this website to calculate the height:


    cfowler2 (author)2015-07-14

    I would also consider this chart:

    Malkaris (author)cfowler22016-08-23

    I know this is a bit stale, but Wow that blew my mind, then I realized that's the force you'd need to maintain to hold a shallow angle. Naturally my hammock sinks down to a deeper angle. I want to do something like this for my son.

    larsenwork (author)cfowler22015-07-15

    I used this:

    mddeming made it! (author)2016-08-15

    Just finished these for my son who is living in NYC. Used red oak and cut 12d nails since he wanted removable pins. Mounting will be by 4-in industrial-grade torx screws

    rtormet (author)2016-07-28

    I hung a hammock in one of my extra rooms too... But i was so worried about taking down a wall or having things rip out that i spanned a 2x4 across 3 studs and screwed them in with 2 lag bolts per stud. Then to hang it I used a pretty thick U bolt that went through the 2x4 right in the center. To make the hammock removable i used a threaded carabiner. Works great but doesnt looks ANYWHERE near as nice as yours! welll done!

    larsenwork (author)rtormet2016-08-01

    cheers, brick walls here :)

    ScottG46 (author)2016-07-28

    Wall Studs are not designed to carry a load horizontally. They do not use premium 2x4s in houses unless the home owner asks for it.

    larsenwork (author)ScottG462016-08-01

    I have brick walls :)

    rocketsurgery (author)2016-07-28

    Thanks for your attractive hammock wall mount... it's just brilliant! I know how difficult it is to find suitable wall mounting hardware, as I have recently mounted an indoor hammock myself. In the end I used a gate hinge fitting with coach bolts going entirely through the block wall. I then attached a chunky D shackle to connect a carabiner to, making it easy to pack away (into a wall cupboard at one end). Anyway, great job and thanks for sharing!

    larsenwork (author)rocketsurgery2016-08-01

    Thanks, thought about adding a carabiner but I have made it so the robe has a big knot in the end and loops around it so I can easily hang it on just one side if I need the space.

    vladivastok (author)2016-07-29

    "Your brackett's are nice & all. I just dont think anchoring a hammock to just one stud would do the trick, unless you weigh in at 80 pound's or less. IM in at 240 , & wouldn't try it without branching out to at least 2 stud's. Maybe 3. Please let me know what weight you may have tested it out at." thank's [VLAD]]

    larsenwork (author)vladivastok2016-08-01

    I have brick walls, if you have studs then it depends on how they were constructed.

    mddeming (author)2016-07-31

    Just one question. How did you cut rectangular holesd as shown in the diagrams and end up with elliptical holes in the finished picture?

    larsenwork (author)mddeming2016-08-01


    Rich_Limburger (author)2015-07-13

    gr8 hanging points they look really good. Nice instructable, when i´ll finnish knotting my hammock i´ll make these. Thnx for the how-to

    great, please post image when done - always fun to see how other people adapt/improve your designs :)

    Hi Larson, sorry for the long time it took me to answer. I almost finished my hammock, purchased a cloth hammock at a bagain so i will most certainly make your wallmounts. As soon as i've finnished them i'll post the picture(s) here.

    make these and use them to hang yer hammock while knotting it.

    Warholm (author)2015-07-15

    Please excuse my waryness ;-)
    Did you lie / sleep in this already?
    How often so far?
    Do you see any deformation / wear?
    And if I may be personal ;-) how much do you weigh?
    I see the pessimists comment, and I am one too BUT 'the proof of the pudding is in the eating' If you have tested this, and it holds, it is probably OK.
    6mm (1/4") expansion bolts happly hold 200 kg (400lb) in concrete...
    If it was a commercial product you would have to prove it could hold something like 8 times the ordinary load. so we are used to seeing things at larger dimensions...

    Having said that I would probably not put somthing I would not want to fall on underneath :-D

    larsenwork (author)Warholm2015-07-15

    Every night for the last 6-7 days. No wear. 70kg. Non-commercial. Plenty of sturdy.

    Warholm (author)larsenwork2015-07-16


    And you have plenty of reasonable non negative comments now, including the weight /force tables which show that the load is fine.

    larsenwork (author)Warholm2015-07-16

    Thanks! can't put anything up on the internet without encountering some knee jerk sad "experts". You shouldn't put anything online if you're not capable of just going ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

    tinaciousz (author)larsenwork2015-07-20


    IOPort51 (author)2015-07-15

    I have a problem with a live side load on a wall stud. I would be using a 5/16" roll pin/spring pin and devise a way to spread load to at least two studs. Cant give this a seal of approval as is but I applaud your attention to detail and a well done Instructable.

    larsenwork (author)IOPort512015-07-15

    Cheers. 4mm screws span over 13mm should hold plenty. I have brick walls.

    Corvidae (author)2015-07-11

    Awesome! I'd use 1/8 or 1/4 steel bar stock instead of cut off screws just to beef it up a bit in case i had hammock company ;)

    larsenwork (author)Corvidae2015-07-11

    Unless your hammock company is an elephant (no judgement) I don't think it's an issue. I will obviously inspect it thoroughly in the future (don't want to fall down in the middle of the night) but no bending even with 2 persons in the hammock so far.

    Look man, everyone is trying to tell you, and you just don't want to hear it. You can't support the weight of a human being on two wood screws!

    It's not safe, those little galvanized pins are going to snap, right where the threaded part meets the straight shaft. It is going to snap.

    Drill it out, and put a bolt through there.

    It is going to snap.

    Updated the instructions with extra notes to please the paranoids:)

    Are you referring to the pins or the screws?

    The pins: only span 13mm, are 4mm thick and only use the straight shaft. Will hold plenty.

    The screws: are brick screws that you hammer in - threaded part is only used for unscrewing and the core of that is just as thick as the unthreaded part.

    kenahoo (author)larsenwork2015-07-14

    You'll never know if it bends, because by the time you realize it, that pin is going to be embedded in your head.

    True story: in college, someone on my hall strung a hammock between the two metal picture-rails in their room. The rails were made of soft metal, so a table knife from the kitchen was placed (and probably duct taped) into the rail for reinforcement. It reinforced fine for a few days, then one day a woman from down the hall sat in it, and the knife flew out at great speed and hit her squarely sideways on the bridge of her nose. Required a hospital to take care of. If it had been rotated in any other position, she'd likely have been a goner.

    Somewhat different situation, but screws like this are not meant to hold transverse loads, period, and a hammock puts a lot of force in a small place. I would replace that ASAP with something whose bending strength is actually known and rated way above the load you calculate it needs to handle (including bouncing).

    larsenwork (author)kenahoo2015-07-15

    They only span 13mm so the force required to bend them would be way above what I can apply. It's the unthreaded part of 4mm concrete screws.

    I don't have any plans of adding a knife to the mix.

    Corvidae (author)kenahoo2015-07-14

    A knife? Good grief!

    cfowler2 (author)Corvidae2015-07-14

    You also never know if the rope is failing. By the time it fails you'll be on the floor. You'll know!

    windshadow (author)larsenwork2015-07-14

    I had one side of my hammock unscrew from the wall with me in it. It really was not that bad. It just kind of swung down and bumped the floor. A glancing blow on me bum. Not as scary as some people might imagine.

    I like the instructible though. Good way to spread out the forces.

    larsenwork (author)windshadow2015-07-15

    Obviously hoping it'll never happen but good to know it'll only be a glance :)

    BrockGrimes (author)2015-07-14

    Also a thought you could maybe use a "Brass Pad Eye" google it you'll see examples.

    larsenwork (author)BrockGrimes2015-07-15

    You could - I like wood though and already had the materials. Not sure if brass pad eyes are tested for pull strength and I also prefer to space the drill holes further apart:)

    BrockGrimes (author)larsenwork2015-07-15

    Pad eyes are used to secure boats to docks. The pull strength is there :)

    larsenwork (author)BrockGrimes2015-07-15

    Ok, that would make them ideal for e.g. concrete walls then. For bricks I'd still like to have the screws further apart:)

    cfowler2 (author)2015-07-14

    I will add that I used to do this with 550 paracord. I do not know the details of the rope used in the picture. The problem with the 550 is that over time the inner strands (7) would being to pop. Every few months I would be awoken to the sounds of "pings" and then I'd be dropped a foot onto my floor. I stopped using that rope. I converted to 7/64" Amstell Blue. It has 1800' strength. It has never dropped me. I slept in my hammock almost every night over 2.5 years. I don't sleep in it every night now, but do a few times/week.

    larsenwork (author)cfowler22015-07-15

    It was some extra rope I had lying around - I have plenty of it so will replace it in a couple of months and then cut through the old rope to inspect any wear/tear

    BrockGrimes (author)2015-07-14

    Your local hardware store will have pins large enough to replace the screws.

    I know Lowes and Home depot both have them in a drawer in the screw isle.

    However, a non-threaded portion of a grade 8 bolt should work fine.

    For wood walls I'd make a longer board and use more screws to hold it to the wall, always over build.
    larsenwork (author)BrockGrimes2015-07-15

    I don't know what grade they are but it's the non-threaded portion of 4mm thick concrete screws so they should hold just fine :)

    drconnilingus (author)2015-07-14

    Awesome.....having company in a hammock, not the lengthwise spooning direction of 2 humans, but another configuration of individuals, is one of my favorite reasons for hanging in a hammock. Til now, I would have to wait for a camping trip & 2 trees to attach my hammock to (I tie a mean knot).....Now I have an indoor alternative. THANK YOU!

    larsenwork (author)drconnilingus2015-07-15

    Cheers :)

    cfowler2 (author)2015-07-14

    Can you remove the hammock? In my office I need to remove mine when I am not sleeping in it. I use a hook for that. The wood is oak and the two screws go deep into the stud. The hook is a screw and goes into the oak, sheet rock, and finally in the stud. I used a similar method on my stair railing for its hardware after I removed what the builders did for painting. It has proven to provide more stability than just putting the hardware directly into the stud. When I want to sleep in my hammock I simply put one end over this hook. The other end I have into an eye screw via amsteel blue. No hook.

    larsenwork (author)cfowler22015-07-15

    I don't have the need right now and figured I'd just add carabiner hooks to the mix if/when the need is there :)

    alexandraroach1 (author)2015-07-14

    That's rather pretty as well as practical. Thank you

    Cheers :)

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